Broken Oil pan
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From: Ellicott City,MD
Broken Oil pan Last time I was at the track I pulled a wheelie that was a hair too big 
I Scraped the back bumper then slammed down and cracked the oil pan and dented my headers. I either need to see if the one I have can be welded or get a new pan. I haven't taken it off the car yet. I was wondering what everyone else is using for oil pans. I figured one with a trap door would be nice for more wheelies.
I Scraped the back bumper then slammed down and cracked the oil pan and dented my headers. I either need to see if the one I have can be welded or get a new pan. I haven't taken it off the car yet. I was wondering what everyone else is using for oil pans. I figured one with a trap door would be nice for more wheelies.
How the hell did the car come up that much? What did yo do to it that made it go on the bumper?
(reason I ask, is with the 100+ lbs I took off the nose and the 50 lbs I put in the trunk with the full size battery, I'm starting to wonder when the car is gonna want to stand up)
(reason I ask, is with the 100+ lbs I took off the nose and the 50 lbs I put in the trunk with the full size battery, I'm starting to wonder when the car is gonna want to stand up)
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From: Ellicott City,MD
How the hell did the car come up that much? What did yo do to it that made it go on the bumper?
(reason I ask, is with the 100+ lbs I took off the nose and the 50 lbs I put in the trunk with the full size battery, I'm starting to wonder when the car is gonna want to stand up)
(reason I ask, is with the 100+ lbs I took off the nose and the 50 lbs I put in the trunk with the full size battery, I'm starting to wonder when the car is gonna want to stand up)
Burkhart front bumper supprot, Tubular K memeber, CM lower control arms, tubular upper control arms, relocated the battery to the rear, and a brand new set of 325 drag radials. This was on a 125 shot out of the hole progressed at 80% Oh **** that's not good.
I haven't dont the k member or a arms, but I went to a motor plate and removed the motor mounts/stands which saved about 15 lbs I'd guess,bigger 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch headers, pulled the power steering and all that and now have a race water pump, aerospace hub style drag brakes (60 lbs off the front) manual master (15 more lbs) ds2 front tires (another 28 lbs) and the burkhart support which was a wash from what I had on there...
I'm gonna guess, and say the headers with the exhaust will make probably another 10 rw then the 1 3/4 headers I had on the car (on the jug anyway) and the water pump/removal of the p.s is probably another 5 rw. Car's probably close to 500 rw now n/a with a nitrous tune, we didn't bother dynoing it though.
I did go from a 4.10 to a 3.73 gear though.... I dunno if that will be enough to calm the car down at all, I do leave off the transbrake on the floor (5400 rpm) and when I have the juice on, it's 100 to 150 and the only progression is how it distributes in the intake LOL.
What did you have your shocks set on front and rear before and after the weight reduction? I was running my r series fronts on 3 and the rears on 5/6 last year, I tightened the fronts up when I put the nitrous on the car to 4 and on a 100 shot it went 1.35 60 foot, put the 150 to it and put the front shocks at 5 and it never 60 footed as good as it did with the 100 shot.
I think I'm gonna put the fronts at 4 and leave the rears on 5/6 and see what happens n/a for the first run.... if it doesn't come up like that I'll probably be o.k., but if it does
I haven't dont the k member or a arms, but I went to a motor plate and removed the motor mounts/stands which saved about 15 lbs I'd guess,bigger 1 7/8 stepped to 2 inch headers, pulled the power steering and all that and now have a race water pump, aerospace hub style drag brakes (60 lbs off the front) manual master (15 more lbs) ds2 front tires (another 28 lbs) and the burkhart support which was a wash from what I had on there...
I'm gonna guess, and say the headers with the exhaust will make probably another 10 rw then the 1 3/4 headers I had on the car (on the jug anyway) and the water pump/removal of the p.s is probably another 5 rw. Car's probably close to 500 rw now n/a with a nitrous tune, we didn't bother dynoing it though.
I did go from a 4.10 to a 3.73 gear though.... I dunno if that will be enough to calm the car down at all, I do leave off the transbrake on the floor (5400 rpm) and when I have the juice on, it's 100 to 150 and the only progression is how it distributes in the intake LOL.
What did you have your shocks set on front and rear before and after the weight reduction? I was running my r series fronts on 3 and the rears on 5/6 last year, I tightened the fronts up when I put the nitrous on the car to 4 and on a 100 shot it went 1.35 60 foot, put the 150 to it and put the front shocks at 5 and it never 60 footed as good as it did with the 100 shot.
I think I'm gonna put the fronts at 4 and leave the rears on 5/6 and see what happens n/a for the first run.... if it doesn't come up like that I'll probably be o.k., but if it does
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From: Ellicott City,MD
I was advised to get a set of travel limiters but Id wan to see how it acts when I progress it some more and tighten the shocks up. I also plan on getting a set of Madman save your *** bars. If I were you I would invest in an FJO progressor.
You both need travel limiters, I i have my limiters set loose i can still put the car on the bumper almost anywhere, even with a progressor. Also to get the best 60ft's possible your gonna need to spray alot out of the hole, screw limping out with a little ***** shot.
And chances are you broke more then your oil pan. I cracked my block, trans bell housing, bent my rims, and the front pump in the transmission.
And chances are you broke more then your oil pan. I cracked my block, trans bell housing, bent my rims, and the front pump in the transmission.
Travel limiters are going on when I put the burkhert front end on the car, I'm gonna have them make the lower a arms with the limiter attachments already on them.
watch the video in my sig, the car didn't even pull the tires hardly at all with the front shocks at 5 and the reats at 5/6, yeah I took alot of weight out but I dunno if it will be enough to be a problem. I highly doubt it will.
watch the video in my sig, the car didn't even pull the tires hardly at all with the front shocks at 5 and the reats at 5/6, yeah I took alot of weight out but I dunno if it will be enough to be a problem. I highly doubt it will.
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You both need travel limiters, I i have my limiters set loose i can still put the car on the bumper almost anywhere, even with a progressor. Also to get the best 60ft's possible your gonna need to spray alot out of the hole, screw limping out with a little ***** shot.
And chances are you broke more then your oil pan. I cracked my block, trans bell housing, bent my rims, and the front pump in the transmission.
And chances are you broke more then your oil pan. I cracked my block, trans bell housing, bent my rims, and the front pump in the transmission.
What he said about the limiters!!
And Make sure you check the tranny and block for cracks before you take it back out. I thought all I did was dent the headers and break the pan until I took it apart. I broke the trans. case and would have done the block also but mine is iron.
Good luck!
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Get the limiters. Even that might not stop the car from coming up too much.
I have my limiters set fairly tight and the fronts on 5 and I'm on the bars every time. And that's' off the footbrake.
BTW JL, I have 3:73's and 30" tires so if you're counting on your gear change to keep the front end down-forget it!
I have my limiters set fairly tight and the fronts on 5 and I'm on the bars every time. And that's' off the footbrake.
BTW JL, I have 3:73's and 30" tires so if you're counting on your gear change to keep the front end down-forget it!
Great LOL, now I'm getting worried.
When I do put the limiters on I'm gonna start with them real tight, se if I can't get teh car to leave like a pro-stock with the tires an inch off the ground.
You guys running short tq arms or long ones? I have a full lenth BMR arm attached to a bmr th400 crossmember with relocation. I have the tq arm close to the middle of the adjustmant, rear arms one hold down from stock in the relocation brackets, same as last year.
Video in my sig, car doesn't come up at all, you guys think the weight I ook out and putting the battery in the trunk is enough to make for problems?
When I do put the limiters on I'm gonna start with them real tight, se if I can't get teh car to leave like a pro-stock with the tires an inch off the ground.
You guys running short tq arms or long ones? I have a full lenth BMR arm attached to a bmr th400 crossmember with relocation. I have the tq arm close to the middle of the adjustmant, rear arms one hold down from stock in the relocation brackets, same as last year.
Video in my sig, car doesn't come up at all, you guys think the weight I ook out and putting the battery in the trunk is enough to make for problems?
I run a full lenght torque arm.
These cars with the stock style suspension don't leave hard with the wheels low, unless it's a turbo.
N/A-Nitrous-gotta get the weight back on the wheels to get 'em out quick.
At least that's my experience from my own car and from fellow racers.
These cars with the stock style suspension don't leave hard with the wheels low, unless it's a turbo.
N/A-Nitrous-gotta get the weight back on the wheels to get 'em out quick.
At least that's my experience from my own car and from fellow racers.
From what I've seen, they tend to be te fastes with the front tires about a foot in the air.
Now wether that's with the front end strapped down tight, or full travel I dunno to be honest.
I watch video's of Brady's car and some other big power cars and they aren't picking the nose up much at all. Granted they're riding wheelie bars out but the nose stays down.
I don't think wheelie bars are needed for a mid 9 second car, my goal is a consistant 9.5 car, with as little nitrous as I can get away with. I'm not looking to get away from it completely, mainly because I feel it will help with consistancey in summer heat.
Now wether that's with the front end strapped down tight, or full travel I dunno to be honest.
I watch video's of Brady's car and some other big power cars and they aren't picking the nose up much at all. Granted they're riding wheelie bars out but the nose stays down.
I don't think wheelie bars are needed for a mid 9 second car, my goal is a consistant 9.5 car, with as little nitrous as I can get away with. I'm not looking to get away from it completely, mainly because I feel it will help with consistancey in summer heat.
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From: Cecil County Raceway!!!
Drawback is that you have to run a remote oil filter and plumb it with -10AN lines...
windage tray comparison (stock vs moroso)
relocated oil pickup
installed pan
From what I've seen, they tend to be te fastes with the front tires about a foot in the air.
Now wether that's with the front end strapped down tight, or full travel I dunno to be honest.
I watch video's of Brady's car and some other big power cars and they aren't picking the nose up much at all. Granted they're riding wheelie bars out but the nose stays down.
I don't think wheelie bars are needed for a mid 9 second car, my goal is a consistant 9.5 car, with as little nitrous as I can get away with. I'm not looking to get away from it completely, mainly because I feel it will help with consistancey in summer heat.
Now wether that's with the front end strapped down tight, or full travel I dunno to be honest.
I watch video's of Brady's car and some other big power cars and they aren't picking the nose up much at all. Granted they're riding wheelie bars out but the nose stays down.
I don't think wheelie bars are needed for a mid 9 second car, my goal is a consistant 9.5 car, with as little nitrous as I can get away with. I'm not looking to get away from it completely, mainly because I feel it will help with consistancey in summer heat.
You are right I run the big power cars tight on the front end with little travel. Then pour the power to it.
I really don't think I'd be able to 60' as well if I didn't have them back there as a safety net in order to get the car to transfer the weight and get out quick.
Peace of mind of knowing I won't stand her up is the reason I put them on without even trying to run the car without them, plus hearing a few horror stories.
I talk to Tim (soslow) from time to time and I always was impressed with the way his car got out and he told me his car always 60'd better with the front end up and on the bars and my experience has been the same with my car so far as well.
I run the N/A cars different. They have to have the hit and lift the tires to get the car moving. I dont have a problem with wheelie bars. They are a good thing to have especially if you go alot of rounds at a bracket race etc.
I haven't put the limiters on yet, and with the 100+ lbs that are off the nose and the 50 lbs that moved into the trunk I do wonder if the potential for the "next" like sky-view is possible.
28x10.5S et drag if the tire choice matters
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From: Ellicott City,MD
What he said about the limiters!!
And Make sure you check the tranny and block for cracks before you take it back out. I thought all I did was dent the headers and break the pan until I took it apart. I broke the trans. case and would have done the block also but mine is iron.
Good luck!
And Make sure you check the tranny and block for cracks before you take it back out. I thought all I did was dent the headers and break the pan until I took it apart. I broke the trans. case and would have done the block also but mine is iron.
Good luck!
Were gonna have it up on the lift tonight so I'll be able to check it all out real good. Hopefully Im lucky.
