jl ws6...you just hear about the ones comming apart but many many dont....mines has a year and a half of 108+ mph 1/8 runs and probably 250 street runs (175 track runs) and no problems with my 60e...

my first tranny i daily drove for 2 years had at least 20k miles when i sold it it wasrunning 101 in the 1/8 and id say with dd it and spraying it into overdrive for 2 years it had at least 500 pases on it...

they can be made to hold, just builders that suck...my first tranny went back after 8 months with a stall and cam...got it rebuilt to stock...it lasted 3 months...this was reabuilt by a local guy that has a 4 sec 1/8 racecar ect...he told me i make too much power for a 60e, i told him to screw off, my stocker lasted longer and he sucked at building trannys

fyi my tranny was 1400 to have built....never had a problem with either

 

For every guy that has one stay together, there's 500 that don't

Back on topic for this thread though, I'm going back to the track this saturday, gonna see if I can't break the 1.35 60 foor barrier with a 100 shot

 

That is certainly the case, and everybody around this area that knows me or my car knows it. I don't think he is intersted in spending money to become a sponsor here. He has about all he can do now.

 

With that big of an engine you shouldn't need nitrous to do that.

 

Best motor 60 I"ve had so far has been 1.44 @ 3500 lbs off the footbrake, car's was really never set up to run n/a

With a set of 4.33's it might be able to. I swapped to a 3.73 gear this year and with the nitrous tune the car is soft on motor now, I don't think it would go much faster then 10.8 n/a now at about 123ish for mph.


I agree it should be able to do it no problem, when the sig pic was taken it went 1.416 on the rear tires

 

Spohn, all heim ends.

3700 ish lbs
Footbrake
All motor
Tight converter

1.52 on worn out M/T drag radials

1.50 on 28x10.5W slicks


David

 

Who's converter are you using? If it's not an ATI, and you are serious about being fast you might think about one.

 

Those top links are Pete Z. I made my own tabs for the top of the housing, shortened the upper links 1" and cut out the front plates too. Pete Z's setup bolts on, using the factory lower control arms. They are completely bolt-on as required by NHRA & IHRA Stock Eliminator rules. I run Super Stock, so don't have to have the bolt-on stuff. I got rid of the rear mounts, and changed to the BMR tubular lower arms so I could space everything in for tire clearance. Just about everybody I race against (Super Stock) have professional built four link/big tire (13" X 32", 14" X 33", etc) cars. As long as I can 60' as well (usually better) with this cheap home made setup, (and these 10.5" tires) I'll just stick with it. All the head-up races I have had with other SS/JA cars so far they have all been between 1.35 & 1.45 in 60'. I'm usually 1.31 to 1.33. 1.32 is pretty much average for me.

I don't think those pictures with the fat, short upper links are actually from Pete Z. Doesn't look like any of his I have seen.

 

stock, 1.6x

 

Not an ati. Converter was built for one of eastside's race cars by Lenny @ Ultimate Converter Concepts here in CT


I'm not by any means saying it's the absolute end all to the converter world, and until I try something else I can't say yes or no as to wether it is better... but it's seemed to work decent so far.

Eventually I will try changing it, but I have alot of other stuff to change first that I know will get me results, changing teh converter, might, or it might not it's not a guarintee.

 

Lenny builds some REAL NICE converters have quite a few customers running them.

 

I've been very happy with Lenny's converter. He's very big in the mustang world, I'm really surprised that his stuff hasn't found it's way into more lsx cars to be honest, last time I talked to him I told him he should look into sponsoring this site, the business he'd get would probably overwhelm him with work LOL

 

bmr tech, i have a question. i have your adjustable TA relocation kit for the f body and a th350. the problem is i can't get the ta to pull down to the lowest set of holes? i have been having it in the second to last set from the bottom. i decided to move to the lowest and it's like the top slotted holes are not slotted long enough downward?