Drag radials and 10 bolt?
Drag radials and 10 bolt? I picked up a set of Nitto NT555Rs and was thinking about putting them on my car before going to the track tonight. I have a 10-bolt and was wondering what the chances are of doing some rear end damage. 
Car and mods are listed in sig.
Car and mods are listed in sig.
The best 60' you will cut on the nittos w/o full suspension will be 1.8-1.75's
Although i did blow 2 rearends in the three years i had my A4, it was on nittos 100% of the time. Little dinky 245's too. Guess that's just part of the weak rear. might not have even had very much to do with the nitto .
Although i did blow 2 rearends in the three years i had my A4, it was on nittos 100% of the time. Little dinky 245's too. Guess that's just part of the weak rear. might not have even had very much to do with the nitto .
Just be careful with your launches, stay concervative (around 2500) then ride the clutch out fast (don't dump it), i'll say you will most likely not do much better then 2.0s on the 60ft., just remember its a 50/50 chance your takeing with the 10 bolt & M6, weither its with MTs/Nitto's or decent hooking street tires, Not trying to scare you, but your takeing that risk, just have a Cell phone & AAA or trailer just incase lol.
The last 2 times i raced mine at the track, the 2 F bodies i lined up with, 1 pretzeled the driveshaft, the other granaded the rear on street tires, this was his 2 one. Either way, just have fun
The last 2 times i raced mine at the track, the 2 F bodies i lined up with, 1 pretzeled the driveshaft, the other granaded the rear on street tires, this was his 2 one. Either way, just have fun
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From: Gainesville, Florida # of drag strips runs: ?!?!?
As mentioned, be careful on the launches and gear swaps. You can beef up the rear with a girdle cover and even aftermarket axles. Wheelhop is another thing that 6-speeds suffer from that kills 10 bolts. Just go conservative until you have something more stable under the back end.
Derek
Derek
Last edited by Villain281H; Jun 11, 2008 at 10:23 PM.
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Stock gears? I wouldn't worry about it on Nittos, just don't drop the clutch. I've done countless quick slip/hard throttle squeeze launches on my car with a bone stock rear and 315 drag radials and it doesn't make a peep. A little "chirp" of the tires and I'm off. On my old LT1 I simply sidestepped it at 4k 
. I guess that car didn't have the ***** to crack the rear. I have confidence in the stock rears with unchanged gears. DON'T sidestep, DON'T let it wheel hop. If you have those two things under control, you should be fine.
. I guess that car didn't have the ***** to crack the rear. I have confidence in the stock rears with unchanged gears. DON'T sidestep, DON'T let it wheel hop. If you have those two things under control, you should be fine. 
My 10-bolt has been through over 310 hard launches. I give it hell, and have the timeslips to prove it.
It'll be getting rebuilt here shortly for a run on a spot in the top 15 on the SI List, well that and being sprayed into the 10's.
If you're an A4, you can go a LONG way on the stocker if you know how to launch right.
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From: ohio
My 10-bolt has been through over 310 hard launches. I give it hell, and have the timeslips to prove it.
It'll be getting rebuilt here shortly for a run on a spot in the top 15 on the SI List, well that and being sprayed into the 10's.
If you're an A4, you can go a LONG way on the stocker if you know how to launch right.
Yep, if you have an A4, the 10 bolt will hold up for along time, stay with the stock gears if its an M6, "Doubt it" doesn't mention if he is running an A4 or M6, you'll have the A4 guys chime in & tell you success stories, there is a HUGE difference in the 2, i have never heard of a stock DD automatic car/truck breaking a rearend, but the stick cars/trucks snap them & driveshafts on a regular basic, now i'm just talking production RWD vehicles of the day, if you pulled the cover off that 10 bolt, you would see how puny that ring gear really is, its a friggin socker .
Like i said earlier, stay conservative on the launch, Don't dump the clutch (from a stop), roll it out while on the clutch, then let it out, but just remember while your doing this, you will not be makeing your clutch happy neither
, especially if its a stocker, i'm already tearing up my Ram clutch, but mine has some miles on it, its still Ok, but it chatters alittle more now.
If 'Doubt it" is running those ETs & 60fts. on a stock 10 bolt WITH an M6, thens he's the luckiest **** around, maybe he will chime in.
.Like i said earlier, stay conservative on the launch, Don't dump the clutch (from a stop), roll it out while on the clutch, then let it out, but just remember while your doing this, you will not be makeing your clutch happy neither
, especially if its a stocker, i'm already tearing up my Ram clutch, but mine has some miles on it, its still Ok, but it chatters alittle more now.If 'Doubt it" is running those ETs & 60fts. on a stock 10 bolt WITH an M6, thens he's the luckiest **** around, maybe he will chime in.
Mainly preload the rear, and avoid axle hop like the plague. That, and have a good gear pattern. Mine has lived for over 100 launches howling like a banshee. I am planning to rebuild shortly though.
Not that lucky, best 60' I've gone is 1.600. I've seen local A4 guys go 1.48's on the 10-bolt, with minor strengthening. It's all in controlling wheel-hop, and driving smart, i.e., if you do get wheel hop, LET OUT OF IT!
My 10-bolt is stock, except for the gearset, which is a Precision Industries 3.73 set. I've replaced one posi that puked. Posi is a Torsen.
Car is 3350# w/driver. Setup is SI with a 4000 TCI Converter.
Launches have varied, with the best (1.600) being on a 3000 rpm stalled launch.
I changed TA setups, however, so I've been having to launch on a flash from about 800-1000 rpm.
Best 60' so far like that has been 1.74 (on street tires)
Originally Posted by LM97Z
If 'Doubt it" is running those ETs & 60fts. on a stock 10 bolt WITH an M6, thens he's the luckiest **** around, maybe he will chime in.
My 10-bolt is stock, except for the gearset, which is a Precision Industries 3.73 set. I've replaced one posi that puked. Posi is a Torsen.
Car is 3350# w/driver. Setup is SI with a 4000 TCI Converter.
Launches have varied, with the best (1.600) being on a 3000 rpm stalled launch.
I changed TA setups, however, so I've been having to launch on a flash from about 800-1000 rpm.
Best 60' so far like that has been 1.74 (on street tires)
Mainly preload the rear, and avoid axle hop like the plague. That, and have a good gear pattern. Mine has lived for over 100 launches howling like a banshee. I am planning to rebuild shortly though.
Not that lucky, best 60' I've gone is 1.600. I've seen local A4 guys go 1.48's on the 10-bolt, with minor strengthening. It's all in controlling wheel-hop, and driving smart, i.e., if you do get wheel hop, LET OUT OF IT!
My 10-bolt is stock, except for the gearset, which is a Precision Industries 3.73 set. I've replaced one posi that puked. Posi is a Torsen.
Car is 3350# w/driver. Setup is SI with a 4000 TCI Converter.
Launches have varied, with the best (1.600) being on a 3000 rpm stalled launch.
I changed TA setups, however, so I've been having to launch on a flash from about 800-1000 rpm.
Best 60' so far like that has been 1.74 (on street tires)
Not that lucky, best 60' I've gone is 1.600. I've seen local A4 guys go 1.48's on the 10-bolt, with minor strengthening. It's all in controlling wheel-hop, and driving smart, i.e., if you do get wheel hop, LET OUT OF IT!
My 10-bolt is stock, except for the gearset, which is a Precision Industries 3.73 set. I've replaced one posi that puked. Posi is a Torsen.
Car is 3350# w/driver. Setup is SI with a 4000 TCI Converter.
Launches have varied, with the best (1.600) being on a 3000 rpm stalled launch.
I changed TA setups, however, so I've been having to launch on a flash from about 800-1000 rpm.
Best 60' so far like that has been 1.74 (on street tires)
I would also run a solid pinion spacer. I sheared all but 2 teeth off the pinion shaft running in the high 11 range with an A4 and Richmond gears. I had about everything else built on mine too except for welding the axle tubes.
Still be prepared if/when it does break. I hated going to the track with my 10 bolt because I was always worried it would blow. I'm looking forward to the peace of mind I will gain from my 9in. It shouldn't weigh much more than my 10 bolt and the rotational mass should be nearly the same too.
Still be prepared if/when it does break. I hated going to the track with my 10 bolt because I was always worried it would blow. I'm looking forward to the peace of mind I will gain from my 9in. It shouldn't weigh much more than my 10 bolt and the rotational mass should be nearly the same too.
