Car Hauler - Securing Car to Trailer??
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Car Hauler - Securing Car to Trailer??
How are u folks strapping your cars down to car hauler? I figure 2 straps around the axle tube for the rear and one or two up front. Don't know what to secure straps to on car for the front.
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You could get some wheel straps, that go around the wheel & hook to the trailer. This is the method that toyota & nissan are requiring on all the cars that we haul on our car haulers. They hold just fine, on the cars & also on the big Titans.
#10
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Always a good idea to "X" the tie downs, both ft and rear. That keeps the car centered on the trlr, should you have to swerve, to avoid??, or in a panic stop, where the tow vehicle and trlr jacknife..
We always tie to the chassis, in order to minimize swaying. Remember, the c of g is pretty high.
We always tie to the chassis, in order to minimize swaying. Remember, the c of g is pretty high.
#11
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I X the rear straps, loop them around the rear and tie them to the trailer, the front I use the tie down holes on the chassis.
I will add a set of tie down hooks on the front of the chassis if I ever remember to have my fab guy do it while the car is there for something else, just to make things easier.
I was thinking a set of hooks/tabs welded to the chassis up in the front, to decrease the strap lenth and for the ease of things.
Someday when I have a real trailer with a winch in it, I'll probably just attach the winch to the front of the car, and a set of straps to the trailer, hook on the back of the car and drag it in with the winch, and let the winch be the front holddown.
I will add a set of tie down hooks on the front of the chassis if I ever remember to have my fab guy do it while the car is there for something else, just to make things easier.
I was thinking a set of hooks/tabs welded to the chassis up in the front, to decrease the strap lenth and for the ease of things.
Someday when I have a real trailer with a winch in it, I'll probably just attach the winch to the front of the car, and a set of straps to the trailer, hook on the back of the car and drag it in with the winch, and let the winch be the front holddown.
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Please, everyone, not just JL. DO NOT use the winch as a strap. 2 in front, 2 in back.
The winch is not a strap, & it's not save to use it as such.
.
Please, everyone, not just JL. DO NOT use the winch as a strap. 2 in front, 2 in back.
The winch is not a strap, & it's not save to use it as such.
.
#15
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I have stock front lower control arms in the front, I put my strap hook in the hole in the bottom of the lower control arm.
On the rear I "x" the straps and I made these to hook to. They are high quality "I" bolts that I had welded closed so they cant pull open. Has a nut on both sides of the LCA relocation bracket.
[IMG][/IMG]
On the rear I "x" the straps and I made these to hook to. They are high quality "I" bolts that I had welded closed so they cant pull open. Has a nut on both sides of the LCA relocation bracket.
[IMG][/IMG]
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good info. what size straps are you using? I think 800 lb working load is what rating straps I currently have. I figure (fuzzy math) that adds to 1600 lbs for front and same for back w/ 2 straps on each end.
3500 lb car times tow vehicle velocity squared comes out to a lot more than 1600 lbs. Might need to go w/ bigger straps. Last think I need is my car with me in my pickup cab.
3500 lb car times tow vehicle velocity squared comes out to a lot more than 1600 lbs. Might need to go w/ bigger straps. Last think I need is my car with me in my pickup cab.
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The straps I use are I think a 6000 lb load strap. You have to think about the force that the strap will see if soemthing bad happens and the car tries to fly off the trailer, not just the weight of the car.
I bought mine @ walmart, they were way too long so I had to cut them back some, the strap material is 3 inches wide.
I bought mine @ walmart, they were way too long so I had to cut them back some, the strap material is 3 inches wide.
#19
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You all should really buy quality straps. If you get into a real accident it could be life or death. Most cars (ours) need 10K lb breaking strength straps which are roughly 3K lb working. Here is some info from a strap manufacturers website.
Important Information:
A 4 Point Tie-Down System is Recommended for use on ALL 4 Wheeled Vehicles.
3500 lb Rated (E Track) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing 2100 lbs or less.
5000 lb Rated (Flat Snap) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing 3300 lbs or less.
6600 lb Rated (Twist Snap) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing 4000 lbs or less.
10,000 lb Rated (Twist Snap) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing more than 4000 lbs
The minimum Tie-Down Restraint applied to the front end of a vehicle and the rear end of a vehicle should be equal to or greater than 3.3 times the gross weight of the vehicle. Application of the 3.3 factor is for the purpose of establishing the Minimum Load Restraint Requirement to safety secure a "Rolling Dynamatic Load" as represented by the Gross weight of the vehicle in an emergency situation.
Important Information:
A 4 Point Tie-Down System is Recommended for use on ALL 4 Wheeled Vehicles.
3500 lb Rated (E Track) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing 2100 lbs or less.
5000 lb Rated (Flat Snap) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing 3300 lbs or less.
6600 lb Rated (Twist Snap) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing 4000 lbs or less.
10,000 lb Rated (Twist Snap) Systems-Recommended for use on Vehicles weighing more than 4000 lbs
The minimum Tie-Down Restraint applied to the front end of a vehicle and the rear end of a vehicle should be equal to or greater than 3.3 times the gross weight of the vehicle. Application of the 3.3 factor is for the purpose of establishing the Minimum Load Restraint Requirement to safety secure a "Rolling Dynamatic Load" as represented by the Gross weight of the vehicle in an emergency situation.