ET Streets or ET Drags for M6?
#1
ET Streets or ET Drags for M6?
I'm choosing tires for my TA. Tires will be track-only. Tracks are not good here, basically old grainy asphalt. I'm looking at max size possible to fit TA: ET Street 28x13.5, or ET Drag 28x11.5
Which tire will hook better - ET Street or ET Drag?
Which tire will hook better - ET Street or ET Drag?
#4
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It's a 1" difference, the stiff wall slick assuming your chassis is tuned right will react quicker on launch giving you a better 60ft, be more stable at high speed and give a slight increase in mph from the stiffer sidewall, plus it is a hair lighter.
That same 28x10.5S has gone 1.24 60ft in a 3,400 pound 4th gen. As far as who not saying it's a street racer guy but the tire works well in my opinion and gets very little attention.
That same 28x10.5S has gone 1.24 60ft in a 3,400 pound 4th gen. As far as who not saying it's a street racer guy but the tire works well in my opinion and gets very little attention.
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#8
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Originally Posted by RAGENZ28
Hey I've been to Carlsbad, is that track still open I used to talk to that guy "Woody" that ran the track with the 60's vette. I made some 10 sec motor passes there on seriously shot tires This was back in 2001 - 2002 though.
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I've tried all different kinds of slicks and combo's and the 10.5 Stiff worked the best for a manual car. The amount of contact patch is useless if you don't have the suspension set up right.
More tire means more clearancing also.
More tire means more clearancing also.
#13
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One tire is 1" bigger, bigger tires help, but what is more important is the construction and intended purpose of the tire. The ET Street Drag Radial is an awesome tire with an auto, run it on a manual car and it is junk.
Same thing applies to the two tires you're considering, both are great tires, but the stiff wall slick in your power level and application is going to work better than a regular slick which happens to be 1" bigger.
Same thing applies to the two tires you're considering, both are great tires, but the stiff wall slick in your power level and application is going to work better than a regular slick which happens to be 1" bigger.
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stick cars need a stiff sidewall... thats all these guys are saying...
and really i think transbrake guys need a stiff side wall tire also... thats why i like radials... but radials not great for stick cars... for what i have seen... i've never had a DR on a clutch car...
and really i think transbrake guys need a stiff side wall tire also... thats why i like radials... but radials not great for stick cars... for what i have seen... i've never had a DR on a clutch car...
#16
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the 28x10.5S is the tire I run as well. I've gone 1.35 on them with a 100 shot no problem, very good tire, they feel almost as stable as a radial to be honest. When I took the radials off and put these on I really couldn't tell much of a difference, other then the car leaving a TON harder
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I've used the stiff wall slicks on a manual car, but I have also used a stiff wall slick on an auto application and it worked great. Granted it was a huge tire, more for looks than max ET, but still I went 1.31 on a 33x16.5 stiff wall slick on the back tires.
The size you're looking at is much smaller of course, but mine would go wheels up off the transbrake at a stop light without a burn out I like stiff wall slicks.
The size you're looking at is much smaller of course, but mine would go wheels up off the transbrake at a stop light without a burn out I like stiff wall slicks.
#19
So general consensus is that for badly prepped tracks without glue, 28x10.5S would work better than 28x11.5? Also, which are more "forgiving"? because at the event, we only have 2 attempts at qualification, and then as soon as you loose, you're out of the race. So no time at all for experimentation