mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I don't think my brakes are right, I have to stand on them to stop the car@ 125-130 mph.....and It simply feels like I have no brakes.

The system is stock calipers/rotors etc. on a 97 camaro w/strange master cyl. I have w ilwood prop. valve but it is turned wide open. Have thought about removing it.

Track only car......Also when I stall up the car on the line it will just slide the front tires like I have now rear brakes.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

did you drill the pedal 1" up?

dlove

iTrader: (23)

the strage master has its own internal bias. where do you have the front and rear lines going to on the master cylinder?

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

yeah thats been done, I had a stock style MC and changed to a strange the biggest one.....exact same.



The front brakes are closest to the firewall....goe to line lock then into a T to front brakes.

Rear is in the forward spot.

I just sent a conveter back to ATI and he m,entioned replacing the large rear line with a 3/16 one. any thoughts on that?

csjta2

iTrader: (43)

Mike, looks like to me your brake lines are reversed

Loook at this MC, front goes to front, rear to rear

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

I felt the same way when I first tried stopping with the strange master but I just had to get used to it.

dlove

iTrader: (23)

i did the closest to the firewall as the front. no problems on mine

I found where MADMAN said the same thing
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....52&postcount=9

MOSTDELUXE

iTrader: (3)

You have the lines backwards. front goes to front and rear to rear. I belive it is 60/40 split.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

see if this is wrong b/c I don't know, I have enough slack I can swap them and try it with no problem. ATI told me to swap them also when we were seeing what the deal is with the converter.

82 camaro

If you read the instructions thay say the front brakes should be plumed to the rear port. I have mine plumed so that the front port goes to the front brakes and it works fine. I did not feel like bending the lines again and making the double flares.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I don't remember it coming with any instructions at all.

I will call them in the morning, I just replaced the one that was on it with the bigger one and put it on the same way.

Nostang

iTrader: (4)

If you want better stopping power with the manual brakes change your pads to some Hawk HP Plus pads on the front. They will dust like a **** but you will def tell a difference in stopping power. The manual brakes do take some getting used to when you drive power brake cars all the time. Also, One thing I noticed is that you don't have a support bracket running from the firewall to the shock tower. This can cause stopping power issues as the firewall is very thin sheetmetal and will flex pretty bad with a manual master cylinder.

BTW, mdacton- what times did you end up with after the carb swap? Are you running shaft rockers? Do you have stock ported heads or aftermarket? What is your raceweight?
Just trying to get an idea of what the setup I am doing could do as it is very similar. My setup is still in the machine shop waiting on pistons/rods/T&D's.

Later,

Matt

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

I'm still working on it.....having converter problems and waiting on ati right now.

I have had the brakes like this for years and years, I just went to a bigger m/c hoping it would hold a little better. Something can't be right because it just slide the front tires right through the lights

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

What master is that and where did you get it from? We have ours buit to our specs and do not have these issues. I ran with our master and factory brakes for a while. I had no issues. We have a lot of customers with that setup.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

Its the biggest bore one from strange, got it from summit.

I called strange and he said I have it set up for a street car, swap the lines and it should be good to go. Will try it tonight.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I have mine set up so the front is the front, rear is the rear. I have the burkhart strange master in my car.

2 things, if you didn't relocate the rod end on the pedal that will certainly make it alot harder. 2nd, if you haven't put the brace on it so it supports the master so the firewall doesn't flex, that doesn't help either.

Putting that brace on my car made a HUGE difference.

Ya could also have air in the lines still, again not helping. I have to pump mine once before the brakes really work, I call it the prayer pump LOL, first time you hit the brakes they don't work so well, 2nd time they're good. I'm on aerospace drag brakes front and rear too if it matters, which I can't imagine they stop better then the stock ones do since the calipers are about 1/2 the size.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

That may be a large part of your issue. You have too much volume and not enough pressure. We do not use the biggest bore master for that reason.

dlove

iTrader: (23)

I remember mine coming with instructions that said for street use do the front to the rear and the rear to the front. Then for race brakes use the front on the front and the rear on the rear.

I set mine up for street and dotn notice any huge issue. I can hold the front tires while doing a burnout and then im able to hold the car while leaving off the brake. All-though I could use some more pressure to the rear as it wants to spin the tires if i get to high.

I might have to switch the lines and see what the difference is.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I don't have a problem with my line lock not holding the car as long as I get the tires spinning quickly. If I don't stab it quick to get the tires spinning it will want to push the car thru the front brakes, but I don't usually go crazy pushing the pedal down when I put the line lock on either. I imagine if I did it would be fine, but getting the tires going quickly seems to resolve it, and the car stops fine from 140 down so I'm not too concerned.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

My problem is not doing a burnout...it the front tire are locked at the line and when I get on the converter ( I run footbrake class) it just slides the front tires through the lights. I need more rear brake.

The pedal etc. is fine, I have run this for almost 8 years without the brace and never had an issue. There is not air in it, I bench bled it and used a power bleeder. I think the lines just need to be swapped.

You can't really tell here b/c the converter was too loose.....I was in 3rd gear@7000 before the 1/8.

The week before I was pushing through the lights and going through the top end @ 6700 125mph with a 1.7 60'

I have converter issues but the brakes did not help......The converter was too tight and not having enough brake didn't help

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