^x2 I'm instrested in one too

 

Wow, looks like my lid; bought it with the car and always wondered who mfg it because I haven't seen any like it!

 

I know all that. Have you seen any dynos of the gains from getting rid of the MAF restriction?

 

Yes. The gains depend on how healthy the motor is and what size the throttle body is. On my 508 rwhp 346, going from an 85mm MAF to no MAF was worth around 3 rwhp. I was running a Mamo ported FAST and a 90mm TB.

On a 400 rwhp LS1 that I ran with a ported stock TB, going to an 85mm MAF was worth no gain and going to a 3" pipe with no MAF was no gain. The throttle body was the choke in the system. So like I said, the gains vary.

 

thanx for the info

 

Not bad at all and good to know that Pat

peace

 

........

 

I think the double hump in the graph stems from having the intake valve events much later than the intake manifold is tuned for. Basically the IVO and IVC are not in harmony with the tuned runner length of the intake. The intake will try to force a torque peak at 4800 rpm and the cam timing is trying to force a peak at a much later rpm.

 

damn...stupid hype cams...shoulda done my research prior to installing...to cam a vette is not nearly as simple as a F body
Going to have you spec me a cam for next winter....Ill swap cams for something that will have a smoother Tq curve and match my heads and setup better
you spec'd my buddy PRAY a cam on his 416 Z06 and his TQ curve looks perfect and makes gobs of power (573rwhp)
I think you said in a previous PM i would benefit for a cam with more split to match my heads and some of the newer cam lobes currently have old school XE and XER lobes
1990s called and they want their XE lobes back
Dont understand why they'd develop a cam for the LS1 (IE my current and many others) that everything wouldnt be in sync and have smooth HP and TQ power curves
Do you think I would benefit from MORE duration or just more split? No problem spinning to 7K rpm and im fine with the driveability of my 236 238 cam
Doing 390 gears with my MN12 trans the end of the month too
might have to make this cam swap a spring/summer project
Currently swapping my stock clutch out for a twin disk, might remove my maf completely (tuned it myself SD), swapping to a set of ARH 1 7/8 headers from my current 1 3/4 LG pros....this with a cam change...you think my goals below would be attainable?
Whatcha think PATG Looking for 480-490RWHP
THANKS
KURTOMAC
BTW thanks for your response

 

damn that is a sexy lid and that has got to be one of the best stock size flowing lids...i would bet anything that if it had a 85mm snout it would outflow a FTRA 85mm...

that is actually a perfectly designed lid...exactly what i wanted to do with some fiberglass because i didnt know one was on the market...

 

Patrick, would you illustrate what do you mean by the opening of the air lid was 1/2" across? do you mean from the air lid to the MAF? where that opening exactly? i realy didn't understand what did you mean by that?

thanks.

 

Where can we buy that UPD lid ?

Is it still available ?

 

It does have the 85mm snout - ID is 92mm

I still have a couple available.

 

Look down at your airlid..see where the lid clips to the bottom part of your intake, same piece that bolts over the radiator?

Your gonna wanna put some washers in between the the bottom part of the intake and where it bolts up.

So unbolt the bottom part of the intake and stick some washers under it where the bolts go. Make sure you put the bolts back through the washers and bolt it back down.

I hope that makes sense, wasn't as easy to explain as I thought it was...

 

there current ls6 head is a 799 casting not a 243 casting is this an older set?

 

yes, its an older set. got these before the 799 were out.

 

i got it, thanks.

does that straighten the air entering the engine more than if the lower part of the intake setting lower?

will i have any hood clearance issue with raising the lower part of the intake?

btw, what i understood now from Patrick post is that i need to raise the lower part of the intake 1/2", is that correct? or how high do i need to raise it?

thanks.

 

the reason to raise it is because that point is a restriction in the intake track.

I never really thought about it before, but if you look at it, that small 1/2 gap doesnt really allow for too much air to enter. Raising up the base allows for a lager opening and more air to freely enter.

you'll need to keep hood clearance in mind when raising up the base, checking your hood to lid spacing adding washers as needed without adding too many and causing the hood to strike the lid when it closes.

 

Good detective work!

Who did the SD tune originally?

 

I saw it was asked a few times in the thread... but how does the UPD stack up to the Fast toys 85mm then? Both look like great products but which will have higher output?