Dyno Results from 3" Cutout Install (H/C LS1 with before and after graphs)
05-20-2009, 09:45 AM
#1
Dyno Results from 3" Cutout Install (H/C LS1 with before and after graphs) I dropped my car off at Eastside Performance to have a cutout installed last week and picked it up last night (mods listed at the bottom). They welded in a 3" cutout about halfway down the straight pipe and then strapped the car on the dyno and retuned it with the cutout open. At my request, they also ground out the hole on the cutout a bit because when I received it the cut hole was MUCH smaller than the 3" cutout pipe.
The before and after graphs are below but the car picked up 8.6 rwhp and 12.8 rwtq peak. What's impressive to me is that I picked up significantly over the ENTIRE torque curve, anywhere from about 5 rwtq at the least to about 20 rwtq at the most! It's not 100% accurate as I did it by eye, but I wrote up a quick breakdown of the torque at every 500 RPM below from 3500 up to 6500 (I shift around 6700-6800 typically and obviously I'm not ever racing below 3500, or even 4500 for that matter).
3500 330 vs 340
4000 350 vs 365
4500 355 vs 375
5000 365 vs 380
5500 355 vs 374
6000 345 vs 352
6500 325 vs 330
NEW GRAPH (pay no attention to the whited out part, it was a comparison with someone else's graph):
OLD GRAPH:
Power-related Mods
$900/pair Patriot LS6 heads
224/228 581/588 113LSA
Pacesetter LTs, ORY, 3" cutout (old was through a Magnaflow CB)
SLP CAI, lid, bellow
Stock LS6 intake and ported TB
12-bolt with 4.10s
Built MN12 transmission
3.5" aluminum driveshaft
17" OEM SS wheels with 275 Nittos
AND A BIG THANKS TO EASTSIDE PERFORMANCE IN WALLINGFORD, CT! These guys get the job done and do it well.
The before and after graphs are below but the car picked up 8.6 rwhp and 12.8 rwtq peak. What's impressive to me is that I picked up significantly over the ENTIRE torque curve, anywhere from about 5 rwtq at the least to about 20 rwtq at the most! It's not 100% accurate as I did it by eye, but I wrote up a quick breakdown of the torque at every 500 RPM below from 3500 up to 6500 (I shift around 6700-6800 typically and obviously I'm not ever racing below 3500, or even 4500 for that matter).
3500 330 vs 340
4000 350 vs 365
4500 355 vs 375
5000 365 vs 380
5500 355 vs 374
6000 345 vs 352
6500 325 vs 330
NEW GRAPH (pay no attention to the whited out part, it was a comparison with someone else's graph):
OLD GRAPH:
Power-related Mods
$900/pair Patriot LS6 heads
224/228 581/588 113LSA
Pacesetter LTs, ORY, 3" cutout (old was through a Magnaflow CB)
SLP CAI, lid, bellow
Stock LS6 intake and ported TB
12-bolt with 4.10s
Built MN12 transmission
3.5" aluminum driveshaft
17" OEM SS wheels with 275 Nittos
AND A BIG THANKS TO EASTSIDE PERFORMANCE IN WALLINGFORD, CT! These guys get the job done and do it well.
Last edited by PewterScreaminMach; 05-20-2009 at 10:31 AM.
05-20-2009, 10:19 AM
#4
The before one was from 2007 and their computer crashed and lost all their old data, unfortunately. Luckily I had this copy of the last time it was dynoed on the current setup (minus the cutout).
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I'm surprised a cutout can gain so much over a Magnaflow.
05-20-2009, 08:26 PM
#11
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That's what I'm hoping for. Last time at the track was 11.7s at 117 all day long but the weather was good that day. If the weather is good Friday, I'm hoping for an 11.6 at 118 but chances are it will be a bit warmer out. I'd really like to see a 118 from the car at LVD.
The before one was from 2007 and their computer crashed and lost all their old data, unfortunately. Luckily I had this copy of the last time it was dynoed on the current setup (minus the cutout).
The before one was from 2007 and their computer crashed and lost all their old data, unfortunately. Luckily I had this copy of the last time it was dynoed on the current setup (minus the cutout).
05-20-2009, 09:08 PM
#12
).
05-20-2009, 09:28 PM
#13
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You aren't the only one. I've always heard the Magnaflow flows well. I was hoping for 10 rwhp but the torque gain made me more than happy. Hopefully it will show at the track if we get some good weather Friday. You gonna be there?
Thanks, man. Those street tires are killing you. What gears are you running? Get some ET Street Radials and you'll be low 12s with that trap assuming you've got some gear in the car (although if you have a 10-bolt you'll blow it quick).
Thanks, man. Those street tires are killing you. What gears are you running? Get some ET Street Radials and you'll be low 12s with that trap assuming you've got some gear in the car (although if you have a 10-bolt you'll blow it quick
).I have a stock rear end with 3.42's. I want to go with 4.10's but I know that will put my rear end on borrowed time and I currently dont have the money for a 9" or 12 bolt/
my best run was 31.1 @ 116 with a 2.49 60'...ya, I know lol. No wheel spin. Just launched from a idle and bogged down to hell.
05-21-2009, 09:31 AM
#15
I'll be picking up the electric cutout from QTP (unless someone has a better suggestion) in the next month or so probably.Yeah, it does alright for such a mild setup and a heavy, STEEPLY geared, drivetrain. I plan on upgrading to some PRC Stage 2.5 LS6 heads down the road and possibly doing a cam at the same time. Eventually it will just be a stronger H/C/I car when I get the money for the better heads, bigger cam, and a 92/92 setup. At that point I'll definitely have to upgrade the injectors and pump, though, so it will all be pricey. I'll be shooting for 10s full weight but I want to see what I can get out of this setup first.
05-21-2009, 10:10 AM
#16
yah I know my street tires are killing me even tho they are goodyear eagle F1 GS-D3's in 315's. I also have a adjustable spohn torque arm, BMR LCA's and BMR relocation brackets, KYB AGX shocks....
I have a stock rear end with 3.42's. I want to go with 4.10's but I know that will put my rear end on borrowed time and I currently dont have the money for a 9" or 12 bolt/
my best run was 31.1 @ 116 with a 2.49 60'...ya, I know lol. No wheel spin. Just launched from a idle and bogged down to hell.
I have a stock rear end with 3.42's. I want to go with 4.10's but I know that will put my rear end on borrowed time and I currently dont have the money for a 9" or 12 bolt/
my best run was 31.1 @ 116 with a 2.49 60'...ya, I know lol. No wheel spin. Just launched from a idle and bogged down to hell.
05-21-2009, 10:13 AM
#17
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Suspension will help transfer weight in any setup, even with street tires. But it still won't hook with street tires with a hard launch like sticky tires would. But there would be a differance!
05-21-2009, 11:23 AM
#18
But I understand what you're saying, it just still doesn't do much good with that kind of power without a sticky tire. If he puts a gear in the car before getting some tires, he might as well pull the tires altogether to save weight and just launch it on the rims.
05-21-2009, 02:59 PM
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With a 116 trap car (possibly faster with decent tires), you're really splitting hairs if you're running street tires trying to launch like you need to by throwing a few suspension parts on the car. The 13-second pass pretty much shows that.
But I understand what you're saying, it just still doesn't do much good with that kind of power without a sticky tire. If he puts a gear in the car before getting some tires, he might as well pull the tires altogether to save weight and just launch it on the rims.
But I understand what you're saying, it just still doesn't do much good with that kind of power without a sticky tire. If he puts a gear in the car before getting some tires, he might as well pull the tires altogether to save weight and just launch it on the rims.
Im afraid to do gears with my 10 bolt because it will be on borrowed time
also, kinda worried about sticky tires. I have a buddy thats going to let me borrow some for a few passes so we will hafto find out how well it holds togteher.