528HP 491TQ.... BUT have you ever seen a graph like this!?!
10-27-2009, 08:40 PM
#61
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What are you using to control boost? Ive seen a graph similar to that with an electronic boost controller setup wrong.
What gap on the TR6 plugs? ie is spark blowing out
What is the exhaust setup, are you running cats?
Did you try shimming the BOV and did you verify that it isnt opening under boost?
Did you do a compression test?
What gap on the TR6 plugs? ie is spark blowing out
What is the exhaust setup, are you running cats?
Did you try shimming the BOV and did you verify that it isnt opening under boost?
Did you do a compression test?
I am using a cheap ebay boost controller.
gap was 18-20 on tr8's then tried autolite 103 (tr-6 heat equivelant) at 32 and no change so i dont think spark is blowing out...
no cats its a front mount Master Power T70 (homemade merge pipe with truck manifolds and 3" downpipe dumped by starter)
I did shim the BOV quite a bit (almost to much i think because the bov barely works now) and i gained about 20hp doing that (thats how i went 507 to 528hp)
I have not done a compression test on the motor yet... and have not checked the charge side for leaks because i have boost the entire run... it fluctuates a few kpa but not bad ( i have logs posted on the first post in the thread)
Another question...... could i have a head that is lifting causing this? I hear about people having problems lifting heads.... I never trying to turn down the boost and see what it did... but at over $100 for 3 runs its expensive and cant afford to keep doing runs on the dyno....
10-27-2009, 08:47 PM
#62
Does it feel like it noses over on the street like the graph shows?
From what I recall, youre not running much timing so I doubt you lifted a head. Was there any knock on the run?
I would try dropping the boost and see what happens. And honestly, if you have the means/tools....pull a valve spring and test it and see what happens.
From what I recall, youre not running much timing so I doubt you lifted a head. Was there any knock on the run?
I would try dropping the boost and see what happens. And honestly, if you have the means/tools....pull a valve spring and test it and see what happens.
10-27-2009, 08:58 PM
#63
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Does it feel like it noses over on the street like the graph shows?
From what I recall, youre not running much timing so I doubt you lifted a head. Was there any knock on the run?
I would try dropping the boost and see what happens. And honestly, if you have the means/tools....pull a valve spring and test it and see what happens.
From what I recall, youre not running much timing so I doubt you lifted a head. Was there any knock on the run?
I would try dropping the boost and see what happens. And honestly, if you have the means/tools....pull a valve spring and test it and see what happens.
No there is no knock coming up.... I did the first run at 17* and the next ones at 22*..... I am currently running 17* on the street (remeber i am low compression at around 8.5-8.7:1)
I will try to lower the boost and see what happens.... I will also log it with hptuners and use the timer at the bottom of the log to time the run... maybee it will be faster with less boost if the darn thing wont fall on its face... lol
I have a valvespring removal tool... but not sure how to test the spring tension.?.?
I am running the stock tranny also... It is slipping a little and is flashing way above the 3600 rpm stall...... lol, a new tranny is on the list of things to save for this winter....
10-27-2009, 09:07 PM
#64
valve spring tester....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66834/
Start with the easiest stuff first. Lower the boost to 8 psi or so and see what happens. I would check a valve spring or 2 next and then see about a compression test.
From that graph you only have a few explanations.....either spark was cutting out hard, fuel was cutting out hard, there is a clog in the induction/exhaust system, you have springs in BAD shape, there is a hole in some pistons lol.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66834/
Start with the easiest stuff first. Lower the boost to 8 psi or so and see what happens. I would check a valve spring or 2 next and then see about a compression test.
From that graph you only have a few explanations.....either spark was cutting out hard, fuel was cutting out hard, there is a clog in the induction/exhaust system, you have springs in BAD shape, there is a hole in some pistons lol.
10-27-2009, 09:20 PM
#65
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valve spring tester....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66834/
Start with the easiest stuff first. Lower the boost to 8 psi or so and see what happens. I would check a valve spring or 2 next and then see about a compression test.
From that graph you only have a few explanations.....either spark was cutting out hard, fuel was cutting out hard, there is a clog in the induction/exhaust system, you have springs in BAD shape, there is a hole in some pistons lol.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66834/
Start with the easiest stuff first. Lower the boost to 8 psi or so and see what happens. I would check a valve spring or 2 next and then see about a compression test.
From that graph you only have a few explanations.....either spark was cutting out hard, fuel was cutting out hard, there is a clog in the induction/exhaust system, you have springs in BAD shape, there is a hole in some pistons lol.
Ouch! $65, lol.... the springs only have about 5000-7000 miles on them.... im pretty sure they are ok.... but if it eventually comes down to it i will break down and buy it, lol.
ok that makes it simple.... spark, springs, intake/exhaust, fuel, holes in pistons....
Damn i hope i didn't kill a piston already!!!! I would know though, it would smoke like a **** and have horrible blowby and doesn't do either...
What would a dyno sheet look like with a lifting head? How do i know if i lift a head? Will it always blow out coolant or not?
as for compression... you would think it wouldn't have made it to 500hp if it had bad compression right???????
10-27-2009, 09:29 PM
#66
When a head lifts either you'll get coolant in the chamber, or more likely youll blow combustion into the coolant system. You can pressure test the coolant system with a tool at Autozone/Discount Auto Parts thats free.There are also testers that will detect exhaust in the coolant system. Have you checked your coolant level lately in the radiator?
10-27-2009, 10:20 PM
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When a head lifts either you'll get coolant in the chamber, or more likely youll blow combustion into the coolant system. You can pressure test the coolant system with a tool at Autozone/Discount Auto Parts thats free.There are also testers that will detect exhaust in the coolant system. Have you checked your coolant level lately in the radiator?
I check the oil everyday i drive it and the oil looks good not milky or anything, I think it just pushes out when it occasionally gets to like 230ish temp when i do a long run on the highway....
11-01-2009, 11:41 PM
#71
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th400 RMVB w/Trans Brake... then i have to buy all the other pieces for the swap like crossmember, stall, tranny lines, ect...
I will have 2000-2500 in the tranny swap, man ive spent so much money on this thing in the last year i have owned it, especially after all the different setups, lmao!
After the tranny i should be good for a while though. I have the 9", all the suspension mods, and now the tranny.... so i should be good for a while, lol.
Hell if the 5.3's last for around a year (5,000 to 8,000 miles), i can handle $400 a year lmao!
11-02-2009, 06:44 PM
#72
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Just a thought but have you check for an exhaust leak before the turbo...when the RPMs get high maybe your exhaust starts leaking because the turbo gets harder to spin faster and faster...
11-02-2009, 07:03 PM
#73
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I will check though it cant hurt....
************************************************** *****
Im not gonna drive the car anymore until i get the th400..
My stock tranny is for sale..... $300 + shipping
If you read the whole thread you know that it may be slipping... not 100% sure but i might be so i would check it befor installing it (normall driving it has absolutely no issue... but when i go wot i lose power at 5500 and i think it might be the tranny)
My VIG 3600 triple disk is also for sale..... $450 + shipping (~8000 miles on it)
11-02-2009, 11:26 PM
#74
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I was figuring on what gear to get for my setup with the th400... and an idea popped into my head...I used the calculator to figure what my MPH should be at each rpm and compared it to my log on the dyno and this is what i came up with:
RPM - DYNO SPEED - CALC SPEED : Difference - Efficiency
3100rpm - 071mph - 071mph : 00mph - 100%
3500rpm - 071mph - 078mph : 07mph - 091%
4000rpm - 073mph - 090mph : 17mph - 081%
4500rpm - 076mph - 101mph : 25mph - 075%
4700rpm - 078mph - 105mph : 27mph - 074%
5000rpm - 080mph - 112mph : 32mph - 071%
5400rpm - 086mph - 121mph : 35mph - 071%
5600rpm - 092mph - 126mph : 33mph - 073%
5700rpm - 100mph - 128mph : 28mph - 078%
5800rpm - 110mph - 130mph : 20mph - 085%
5900rpm - 114mph - 132mph : 18mph - 086%
6000rpm - 119mph - 135mph : 16mph - 088%
6100rpm - 124mph - 137mph : 13mph - 090%
6200rpm - 128mph - 139mph : 11mph - 092%
6300rpm - 131mph - 141mph : 10mph - 093%
6400rpm - 134mph - 144mph : 10mph - 093%
obviously the stall is not locked up so the mph is not gonna match exactly what the calculator said.... but it is a 3600 stall and seems to flash all the way to 5500rpm on the sheet i made above, and finally got below the 12% slip at 6000rpm... I have heard you never want more than 12% loss after your flash rpm...
RPM - DYNO SPEED - CALC SPEED : Difference - Efficiency
3100rpm - 071mph - 071mph : 00mph - 100%
3500rpm - 071mph - 078mph : 07mph - 091%
4000rpm - 073mph - 090mph : 17mph - 081%
4500rpm - 076mph - 101mph : 25mph - 075%
4700rpm - 078mph - 105mph : 27mph - 074%
5000rpm - 080mph - 112mph : 32mph - 071%
5400rpm - 086mph - 121mph : 35mph - 071%
5600rpm - 092mph - 126mph : 33mph - 073%
5700rpm - 100mph - 128mph : 28mph - 078%
5800rpm - 110mph - 130mph : 20mph - 085%
5900rpm - 114mph - 132mph : 18mph - 086%
6000rpm - 119mph - 135mph : 16mph - 088%
6100rpm - 124mph - 137mph : 13mph - 090%
6200rpm - 128mph - 139mph : 11mph - 092%
6300rpm - 131mph - 141mph : 10mph - 093%
6400rpm - 134mph - 144mph : 10mph - 093%
obviously the stall is not locked up so the mph is not gonna match exactly what the calculator said.... but it is a 3600 stall and seems to flash all the way to 5500rpm on the sheet i made above, and finally got below the 12% slip at 6000rpm... I have heard you never want more than 12% loss after your flash rpm...
11-06-2009, 10:46 AM
#75
Hope you can get it figured out man.
Since it came factory. LS6s had 7.425s.
But hes running stock heads so unless they are milled hes right with the 7.425s.
People here are very knowledgeable but they act like its voodoo magic when you start talking about 5.3s or 6.0 truck motors.
But hes running stock heads so unless they are milled hes right with the 7.425s.
People here are very knowledgeable but they act like its voodoo magic when you start talking about 5.3s or 6.0 truck motors.
11-08-2009, 02:05 PM
#77
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Here is a link to some more 5.3's with ls6 cams, it seems this may be normall for the 5.3 and ls6 cam?!? So maybee there isn't a problem, I am going with the th400 anyway.
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...ht=5.3+ls6+cam
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...ht=5.3+ls6+cam
11-08-2009, 05:48 PM
#78
First, if you floated the valve several times I would install new springs. This is the fast track to removing stiffness from the springs. Second, you really need to check a few basics. First, remove two springs and take them to a machine shop if you don't want to buy the tool and let them verify they are still OK. Second, check your pushrod length. Third, check the valve spring installed height. Tony has a lot of experience, and if he is correct and you are losing control of the valve train, every time you rev it up you are risking hitting a valve with a piston.
11-08-2009, 06:29 PM
#79
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First, if you floated the valve several times I would install new springs. This is the fast track to removing stiffness from the springs. Second, you really need to check a few basics. First, remove two springs and take them to a machine shop if you don't want to buy the tool and let them verify they are still OK. Second, check your pushrod length. Third, check the valve spring installed height. Tony has a lot of experience, and if he is correct and you are losing control of the valve train, every time you rev it up you are risking hitting a valve with a piston.
Here is the rundown on my PRC Duals with titanium retainers good to .660 lift valve springs.
used them in a cam only (227/231 .614 .617 112+2) setup for about 3500 miles, got an sts kit and ran the same cam with 8psi for 2000 miles killed #7 ringland, now they are in this motor for 500-700 miles and have this problem....
So is it possible for the springs to worn out in 8000 miles? I just find it really hard to have vlave float with PRC duals and an 02 ls6 cam... Although Crazier things have happened....
Not saying its impossible, just saying it SHOULDN'T be happening.... I am going to see if the tranny will help the issue out first....
I do believe i need to get a pushrod length checker and make sure 7.425 are the right lenth.
Check Valvespring Installed Height????? How do i do this?????
11-08-2009, 06:40 PM
#80
The fact the springs are used add even more fuel to the fire regarding potential valve float issues...especially if say a couple are really bad for some reason.
But honestly, the drop in power is so severe, it would be the worst case of valvefloat I think I have ever seen so its really just another option or should I say just another potential fix/solution of your problem (but high on the list IMO).
-Tony
But honestly, the drop in power is so severe, it would be the worst case of valvefloat I think I have ever seen so its really just another option or should I say just another potential fix/solution of your problem (but high on the list IMO).
-Tony