bamxbam

iTrader: (2)

did anybody else notice he STILL has stock pushrods????????????

sayed_000

do i need to change my pushrods to get higher numbers ?

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

Wow..good read..

OP, who did your set-up? It is normal procedure to upgrade your pushrods when utilizing an aftermarket cam and springs. It is very easy to flex (or break) stock pushrods with that cam set-up. Also, there can be issues of length and preload that can drastically affect your cars performance.

Remember, a lot of aftermarket cams have a different geometry with cam diameter etc..Others can address the mechanical issues. My interest in more towards tuning. I would not accept a dyno run that had an less than ideal WOT AFR, or such errors in graphing HP/TQ.

Again, no disrespect to you or your tuner. Maybe I am just 'more picky'.

Good luck, either way..

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

You guys are a little ridiculous saying his numbers don't match at 5250. Look at the scales for HP and TQ on the left and right sides of the graph, then look at the curves again. At 5250 RPM it looks like he's got about 330-335 HP and 330-335 TQ...the graph itself has nothing wrong with it, the HP and TQ scales are just set differently. His AFR doesn't really look all that bad either, looks like it's 13:1 or just a tiny bit richer until 4700 RPM, and then it looks like it richens up to ~12.5:1...it might not be optimal but it's not THAT far off of where it should be for AFR.

I agree the numbers are a little low, but he's also running a stock lid, and a stock LS1 intake manifold...so the numbers aren't AS bad as everyone is saying given those parts on the car. I'd bet the spark curve isn't really optimal, and there is probably some left in the tune, but everyone is jumping down the poor guys throat a little too easily.

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

Oh, I see what you mean Mike. Thats why I ask for a double-check. So you are saying the TQ axis is juxtaposition by one line? (Just move TQ line over to the right?).

I guess what threw me was the numerical Max and Min posted at the top of the graph vs the graph numerical labels. Is that off, or am I making the same error?

Thanks for clearing it up. I hesitated posting figuring it might be an interpretive error.

I agree, did not want to come off to hard on the poster. Thanks again..

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Follow the green line up from 5350 RPM and see where it intersects the HP and TQ curves. It intersects TQ where I then drew a red line to the TQ scale, see the number there. It intersects the HP curve where I drew an orange line to the HP scale, see the number there...compare the 2 numbers, given the fact that I drew the lines in MS paint on a picture that is crooked, I did my best to keep my lines parellel to all the scale lines, so as you can see, the numbers are the same. Nothing invalid about the graph.

Like I said, the numbers are kinda low, but his intake manifold is stock LS1, his lid is stock too...he's got some things working against/holding back his engine from breathing.

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

O.K., I finally got it.

Thanks. Sorry OP, was not sure at first. Good luck with your build..

sayed_000

thanks for explaining mike ..

yeah numbers are low but who cares ,, Car run really hard !

bamxbam

iTrader: (2)

Those numbers seem too low even with the stock ls1 lid and intake, something is not right and I'm willing to bet it's the weak/soft stock pushrods he has with the healthy sized cam and springs. My car has a smaller cam, and with similar mods even with ls1 intake (although i do have a lid and of course hardened pushrods) dynoed 375whp with a/f ratio around 12.6-12.7 and 385whp on a dynojet through the cutout, and even my numbers aren't considered anything special. I'd suggest the OP to change the pushrods asap and see what happens, good luck.

66deuce

iTrader: (1)

if it runs good,that's all that matters..some dynos read lower than others...
but i would definately get some quality hardend pushrods on there,and the correct length ones at that..if you don't have the proper preload,your leaving power on the table as well as risking damage to your valvetrain/motor..(the stock pushrods could do that too if they flex or break)

westtexasbuff

iTrader: (40)

My cam only car made way more than that with a similar sized cam... 232/234

Numbers are way offff! Get it tuned by a reputable shop!

sayed_000

gonna do the pushrods and dyno it to see how it works ..

thanks again ..

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

pushrods won't do anything noteable for you. new stiffer pushrods on the other hand are less likely to bend on you. bendy pushrods make expensive noises...

sayed_000

yeah i have weird sound when i it idles cold ..

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

alot of our cars do.

sayed_000

so does it normal ?

it sounded like the lifters cracking ..