Were the tires inflated properly? That can have an effect.

BTW - I know of an LS1 that dyno'd ~275rwhp

 

Hey guys i'm sort of a newbie so please bear with me, I would like to lay this all out for some people who are more knowledgable than me about dyno's. I have a 2000 TA, A4, 3.23's, after market Ram Air hood sealed to airbox, LS1 lid, and Magnaflow muffler.I Dynoed directly under a heater . No fans providing fresh air, hood was completely closed and I had the rain blocker in the hood nostrils in place. Remember the hood is sealed to the airbox so very little air got to the engine+it was hot air anyway. I now know that having no fans providing fresh air is very dangerous and I should have had the hood open, but it's to late now. I probably screwed some crap up, but anyway I dynoed at 290 rwhp and 299 rwtq. Is this good? Does anyone have a guess what it could have been given ideal conditions?

 

All that stuff I just posted above plus it was in 2nd gear.

 

Running rich as a pig today (925+ on the O2s) I pulled a whopping 338/358 and 390/406 on a 50 shot. She has always dynoed low 295 with a lid and catback.

 

not that you mention it, my tires were not inflated properly. i dont remember the exact #'s i think the right was 18psi and the left was 26psi or something close to that. either way they were way off from each other. of course i didnt think to check them till the dyno was done. i also ran really rich. if i can find a way to post the video, you will see the black cloud come from the rear. i was thinking of going beck to the stock tb but descreening it and gutting the mac cats. anyone ever gutted the mac cats? sound clips? anyway ill insert the link tomorrow.

 

BloodTA - Opening the hood with a fresh air fan will usually add about 10 rwhp. You need to dyno in 3rd gear for an A4 and let the car cool down. Why was there a heater near your car? It doesn't make sense to do that. Try another more experienced dyno operator.

 

my 98 dynoed @ 296/306 w/ borla, lid, K&N, shift kit as my only mods at that time but done in 2nd gear because of my speed limiter attempting to kick in in 3rd gear w/ my unZrated tires

 

The place I went was a career center, the heater was in the ceiling about 20 feet above but it was blasting like a Mother Father. There were several heaters up there, outside temperature was in the 40's.

 

Boy I have seen numbers all over too. I was convinced I bought two LS1 car lemons and should trade them both in. That was until I met up with the folks from Werk who had a portable dyno on the Hot Rod Power Tour in 2002.

They are the folks who dynoed my 2000 Formula (with a Random Technology 3" catback exhaust and K&N filter as only mods) and my (then new) 2002 Formula Firehawk on the Hot Rod Power Tour 2002--second stop in Kansas City.

I was surprised to see my 2002 Firehawk at about 308RWHP and 312 ft. lbs of torque when the 2000 Formula was within 11 RWHP and 10 ft.lbs. or torque! I believe GM advertised the 2000 Fbody at 305 and the 2002 Firehawk at 345, of course these were flywheel, I believe. This outfit was Werk and they had this portable dyno and of course, a stationary dyno at the shop, I believe they were from NC.

He went on at length about the variables including parisitic drag, road conditions, wind, temp, humidity, etc. and many other variables. I understood some of what he said, and it made sense. He spoke at length about some organization that exists to promote standards and how dyno companies are suppose to adhere to some baseline. Then he discussed why many did not. It made sense.....read on.

Then he asked me a question. "If you were in a local car club and a local speed shop dynoed cars and they were known to show higher numbers then another shop in the same town, who would get more repeat business?" Well, that was obvious and it made his point.

He went on to say, his experience, which he claimed included over 150 differenct LS1 vehicle and multiple pulls from each. He stated, "All LS1s from '98 to '02 (at that time), including Camaros and Corvettes, produced relatively the same numbers within 4 to 6% and rarely outside of 8%!!!
I was shocked. He also said, almost no one takes into consideration wind drag, (and other obvious parisitic loss) which is OK if you really are only trying to measure gains as you add mods or equipment. But, he said, try and get away with that on a professional drag team, where consistency is very important and you'd get killed.

So, read the dynos with a certain understanding that in reality, your stock LS1 is most likely with 5% of all other stock LS1s. Those that claim 345RWHP on a stock 2001 Ram Air, are suffering from "too much warm intake air". Now, before we all beat up EACH OTHER, stop, don't do it. Instead lets spend our time argueing against the Mustang Wangers who claim no Camaro or Firebird has over 300 RWHP! Those are the ones we want to really show up!
Just remember, it is how much you gain as a percent that really matters--so focus on how much more you can get out of your own car, rather then fighting with the our own team members. Does it really matter if one dyno says 345 RWHP and the same car on another shows 302 RWHP??? Nope, line them up and lets see how they perform. Better yet, line them up against the Mustangs and rice burners!!!

 

I saw an LS1 Camaro spraying 100 dry shot dynoed 302 rwhp and 384 rwtq

 

Hey guys i have a 99ss with A4 trans LT,Lid,no cats and offroad Y-pipe. with minor LS1 edit. and i only got 307hp and 327rwtq. but yet my car ran a 12.89@109. i have seen people with higher Hp reading run slower times. but i have been told that with A4 its hard to get a good read out cause of the converter. anyways no big deal just a good baseline. a friend of mine got 325 on a A4 with cutout and maf, but alos ran the same time as i did. so oh well who knows at least i kow where to start.

 

Yes there is a Werx here in North Carolina that does dyno stuff.

I've seen cars dyno 408rwhp SAE on a cold day but put 440+ to the rear wheels because the air is cold. On a hot day same car might make 408 SAE but only put 385rwhp to the wheels actual. What the car can really run at the track will depend on the actual rear wheel horsepower it makes on that day at the track not the SAE stuff. Of course traction, set up & driver skill or lack of will play an important part.

 

315 rwhp 320 rwtq with just about every bolt on you can image

lid
pulley
ported TB
MAC headers w/true duals
all the little free mods
home made ram air setup
....i know i am missing something
w/4400 stall converter
3.42 gears

I am proof to anyone that dyno numbers dont really mean anything.

 

Missing? I see a 12 bolt in your future

I have always dyno'd low and done O.K. at the track. And I have 2.73's!

 

316rwhp, 360rwtq with every bolt on for C5, and still managed a 11.6 @ 114.

 

check the sig.....I think my car would be the worst, the numbers were the better out of the 2 runs, second run was 290rwhp and 303rwtq! pretty bad, even the guy was like is that an auto, im like nope! Im pretty sure something is wrong, since i did full tune up, changed fluids, new front o2 and i cant do better than 14mpg city, granny driving! she eats a qt/900 miles also

 

290rwhp 316rwtq - here with mods in sig.

 

Seems a little low. I made 344rwhp and 353rwtq on my 99 (6 speed) with lid, borla, ORY and LT's. Maybe your old girl is just tired.

 

Do a leak down test, You have something else wrong you should not be gewtting 14 MPG.

 

Since my 328/340 dyno run, I've done the fra and ftra mods. The car has gone considerably quicker with just those 2 mods. I don't know what they would be worth on the dyno though.