Full Bolt on LS1 Dyno results 363hp 380wtq (**UPDATE**360hp correct)
#1
Full Bolt on LS1 Dyno results 363hp 380wtq (**UPDATE**360hp correct)
I'll try to be as detailed as possible so bare with me.
The dyno was at Corpus Christi Custom Corvettes. http://www.customcorvettescorpus.com/dyno.html, Says its a DynoJet 248 chassis. Temperature was around 60-65 at the time of the dyno, I'm also close to sea level.
I had fresh tr-6 plugs installed 1 month ago with new ac/delco wires, semi new fuel filter (about 10k miles +/-), ran fresh exxon gas 93 octane, I was due for an oil change ( i was about 3k miles on my current oil change ) w/ mobil 1 full synthetic ( and yes i know i should've gotten a oil change but its the holidays ) I did a transmission service with Valvoline ATF dex3 with new gasket and filter. Car only has 40k miles aswell and isnt burning oil.
98 Ls1 specs:
Car has stock 28lb injectors
Stock unmodified auto w/ stock rear end and drive-shaft
Car also has larger rear wheels in the rear
cam
202/210 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.496" / 0.496" int/exh lift
116 LSA ( source: http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php )
Stock 806 Casting heads
Casting Numbers 241, 806, 853
Head: 1997+ LS1 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559806 (1997-98) Chambers = 69cc
Combustion Chamber Volume: 66.67cc
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1
Intake Port Volume: 200cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 70cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 66.67 cc------0.100--0.200---0.300---0.400---0.500---0.550--0.600
Intake 200 cc------------67----122-----178-----215-----219-----223---227
Exhaust 70 cc------------52-----97-----133-----156-----170-----76----180
(source: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-anything.html)
Bolt-ons include:
g2 Lid w/ holley powershot filter
ls6 intake manifold from a 405hp z06
Granetelli MAF
Trottle Body Bypass, I ran an entire hose instead of a brass coupling
Modified SLP bellow (my lid is a little longer than a slp lid so we did some trimmin)
Used Super Sucker Ram Air (my air lid box is not sealed)
ls1tech sponsor Ported and Polished 00' Throttle body, bumpstop mod, no epoxy mod
Jet Coated Kooks 1-7/8 LT's (Has egr provisions)
Matching Offroad y with a shitty merge (i need a proper merge asap)
Cut-Out Open
Magnaflow Catback
Tuned by rickifast at unlimited performance
http://unlimitedperformanceofcorpuschristi.com/
Notes: Under drive Pulley is not installed.. yet.
Results:
363 HP and 380'ish torque
We suspect the drivetrain loss was inaccurate, so my tuner did the math and realistically it is 352 hp corrected.
I am extremely happy with the results
**EDIT**
The dyno was at Corpus Christi Custom Corvettes. http://www.customcorvettescorpus.com/dyno.html, Says its a DynoJet 248 chassis. Temperature was around 60-65 at the time of the dyno, I'm also close to sea level.
I had fresh tr-6 plugs installed 1 month ago with new ac/delco wires, semi new fuel filter (about 10k miles +/-), ran fresh exxon gas 93 octane, I was due for an oil change ( i was about 3k miles on my current oil change ) w/ mobil 1 full synthetic ( and yes i know i should've gotten a oil change but its the holidays ) I did a transmission service with Valvoline ATF dex3 with new gasket and filter. Car only has 40k miles aswell and isnt burning oil.
98 Ls1 specs:
Car has stock 28lb injectors
Stock unmodified auto w/ stock rear end and drive-shaft
Car also has larger rear wheels in the rear
cam
202/210 int/exh @ 0.05" duration
0.496" / 0.496" int/exh lift
116 LSA ( source: http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php )
Stock 806 Casting heads
Casting Numbers 241, 806, 853
Head: 1997+ LS1 5.7 Liter Passenger Car
Material: Aluminimum
Part Number:
12559806 (1997-98) Chambers = 69cc
Combustion Chamber Volume: 66.67cc
Compression Ratio: 10.1:1
Intake Port Volume: 200cc
Exhaust Port Volume: 70cc
Intake Valve Diameter: 2.00 inches
Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.55 inches
Stock Head Flow Numbers
Chamber 66.67 cc------0.100--0.200---0.300---0.400---0.500---0.550--0.600
Intake 200 cc------------67----122-----178-----215-----219-----223---227
Exhaust 70 cc------------52-----97-----133-----156-----170-----76----180
(source: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-anything.html)
Bolt-ons include:
g2 Lid w/ holley powershot filter
ls6 intake manifold from a 405hp z06
Granetelli MAF
Trottle Body Bypass, I ran an entire hose instead of a brass coupling
Modified SLP bellow (my lid is a little longer than a slp lid so we did some trimmin)
Used Super Sucker Ram Air (my air lid box is not sealed)
ls1tech sponsor Ported and Polished 00' Throttle body, bumpstop mod, no epoxy mod
Jet Coated Kooks 1-7/8 LT's (Has egr provisions)
Matching Offroad y with a shitty merge (i need a proper merge asap)
Cut-Out Open
Magnaflow Catback
Tuned by rickifast at unlimited performance
http://unlimitedperformanceofcorpuschristi.com/
Notes: Under drive Pulley is not installed.. yet.
Results:
363 HP and 380'ish torque
We suspect the drivetrain loss was inaccurate, so my tuner did the math and realistically it is 352 hp corrected.
I am extremely happy with the results
**EDIT**
Last edited by LeanPocket; 02-14-2012 at 01:46 PM.
#6
Bolt on wise? Quite a few tbh.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-ons-list.html I'm using this as a baseline on whats considered a bolt-on. Yes I know its anything that doesn't touch oil, but having a list helps. I'm also a firm believer of every little bit adds up.
But a short list:
Vengeance Racing wires
Great wires, dyno proven results. Doesn't necessarily add hp, but it definitely smooths out the hp/tq curve. Say what you want about wires, but these rock.
Source:https://www.vengeancerd.com/ecart/pr...rk-PLug-Wires#
Magnaflow y 3" -> 3" collector.. aka a proper merge. Pat G recommends a 3" -> 4" flowmaster y collector. That is the way to go, but for my goals a 3" -> 3" collector is perfect. A x-pipe flows similar but It doesn't have any of the clearance issues associated with a x-pipe. Also it doesn't interfere with the tranny or torque arm relocation. Not to mention its at the fraction of the cost of a entire x-pipe setup and mufflers
Source: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...heads-cam.html This is a very good read.
ASP 25% Underdrive Pulley.
All I need is the crank bolt and belts.. waiting to be powder coated aswell. This is said to free up anywhere from 5-15HP, in my case, it'll free up about 5'ish hp. Its a great mod, with little drawbacks.
SLP Fan switch.
Flip it on, fans turn on, leave it off, its works just like stock. Great Track piece
Doubt it free's up anything, but its a niftly low cost modificaiton.
Carbon Fiber Driveshaft.
People call me crazy for wanting to buy one, but its a great addition for racing. It literately weighs 5~ lbs, its flexibility makes it ideal for drive-train longevity, and the main reason is safety. Will it free up more hp? Maybe? I'm thinking not, but its still a good piece none-the-less.
Source:
http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1219850
http://www.iedls.com/Driveshafts/Com...riveshafts.asp
Fikse FM5 wheels
The lightest weight street wheel I can find, weighs approx ~17lbs a wheel. Zr1 oem painted wheels weigh approx 20lbs. Less rotating mass lets me transfer more HP to the ground, if it shows up on a dyno it'll be minimal (if any thing). They do look sick tho
Source:https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...l-weights.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...s-more-hp.html
All this is not including N20, cam only swap, heads, injectors ect.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-ons-list.html I'm using this as a baseline on whats considered a bolt-on. Yes I know its anything that doesn't touch oil, but having a list helps. I'm also a firm believer of every little bit adds up.
But a short list:
Vengeance Racing wires
Great wires, dyno proven results. Doesn't necessarily add hp, but it definitely smooths out the hp/tq curve. Say what you want about wires, but these rock.
Source:https://www.vengeancerd.com/ecart/pr...rk-PLug-Wires#
Magnaflow y 3" -> 3" collector.. aka a proper merge. Pat G recommends a 3" -> 4" flowmaster y collector. That is the way to go, but for my goals a 3" -> 3" collector is perfect. A x-pipe flows similar but It doesn't have any of the clearance issues associated with a x-pipe. Also it doesn't interfere with the tranny or torque arm relocation. Not to mention its at the fraction of the cost of a entire x-pipe setup and mufflers
Source: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...heads-cam.html This is a very good read.
ASP 25% Underdrive Pulley.
All I need is the crank bolt and belts.. waiting to be powder coated aswell. This is said to free up anywhere from 5-15HP, in my case, it'll free up about 5'ish hp. Its a great mod, with little drawbacks.
SLP Fan switch.
Flip it on, fans turn on, leave it off, its works just like stock. Great Track piece
Doubt it free's up anything, but its a niftly low cost modificaiton.
Carbon Fiber Driveshaft.
People call me crazy for wanting to buy one, but its a great addition for racing. It literately weighs 5~ lbs, its flexibility makes it ideal for drive-train longevity, and the main reason is safety. Will it free up more hp? Maybe? I'm thinking not, but its still a good piece none-the-less.
Source:
http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1219850
http://www.iedls.com/Driveshafts/Com...riveshafts.asp
Fikse FM5 wheels
The lightest weight street wheel I can find, weighs approx ~17lbs a wheel. Zr1 oem painted wheels weigh approx 20lbs. Less rotating mass lets me transfer more HP to the ground, if it shows up on a dyno it'll be minimal (if any thing). They do look sick tho
Source:https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...l-weights.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...s-more-hp.html
All this is not including N20, cam only swap, heads, injectors ect.
Trending Topics
#8
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Good #'s!! Car looks good to. SSr Competion is a goos light weight wheel also.
Try a set of roller rockers. I consider them a bolt-on, especially if they are stock ratio.
I mean if guys can change the atmosphere their cars run at and consider that a bolt-on a simple set of rr has to be.
Try a set of roller rockers. I consider them a bolt-on, especially if they are stock ratio.
I mean if guys can change the atmosphere their cars run at and consider that a bolt-on a simple set of rr has to be.
#10
i knew 363 was a lil high, but the correct number is 352. I was expecting 340's but im happy with the results considering the age and other factors. Those ls1's are a real treat.
Stall is going in when i do my cam only swap, gonna be a nitrous street stall.
Stall is going in when i do my cam only swap, gonna be a nitrous street stall.
#14
i guess now that i will be making like 4x more money ill prolly jus buy a good set of heads, like prc's or trickflows, those are kinda sorta a bolt on
thanks i put alot of work keeping it lookin new
Now that i have a iphone 4s i can take better quality pictures, thx for the reminder
#15
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
nice numbers but out of all that the biggest thing that stood out to me was the horrible waste of oil. is a used oil analysis telling you that your engine kills mobil 1 every 3K miles or are you just into pouring money through the drain? A UOA of mobil 1 5w30 out of my C5 after 5K miles showed that it was still good to go.
amazingly the oil life meter on the dash said it was at 30% oil life remaining also.
#16
nice numbers but out of all that the biggest thing that stood out to me was the horrible waste of oil. is a used oil analysis telling you that your engine kills mobil 1 every 3K miles or are you just into pouring money through the drain? A UOA of mobil 1 5w30 out of my C5 after 5K miles showed that it was still good to go.
amazingly the oil life meter on the dash said it was at 30% oil life remaining also.
amazingly the oil life meter on the dash said it was at 30% oil life remaining also.
In my opinion, I don't think it would've mattered much if I had changed the oil, but I don't think it would've hurt anything either. I don't see it as being counter productive if i were to do so.
However i get oil changes included every 3k miles when i bought the car back in june, so it isn't a waste of money and I intend to take full advantage of this service provided to me. After my service ends, I intend on changing my oil inbetween 3k-5k miles.
#19
yeah i agree with both of you. I need to take my car to the track to see how she runs, she feels like a car in the 12's. Idk why its so 'wavy' it might be because it wasn't dyno tuned during that run, but was on the street tune i been driving on. You can't really see the hp curve cuz my stupid scanner cant really pick up the red line.
Also remember im at sea level, and it was about 60 degree's when I did my dyno runs. With that being said, 352 is still a wonderful number and i am very pleased with it.
Also remember im at sea level, and it was about 60 degree's when I did my dyno runs. With that being said, 352 is still a wonderful number and i am very pleased with it.