Stock vs Granatelli wires
01-14-2014, 10:42 AM
#61
01-14-2014, 10:27 PM
#63
Bought them from a nice knowledgeable guy named Nick @ Granatelli. No computer prompts or going thru people who know nothing. I spoke with him after two rings, what a pleasure. My only small gripe is I am not a fan of the blue or green and with no headers going on I didn't want to spring for the super heat shield ones for red. Thankfully I don't care about a show engine bay on this car, been there done that.
I hope to install them next weekend w/ a Potz tb, new few filter & clean the maf. I can't wait to go for a blast. I need to pray for no new salt on the roads until then lol. Great thread, glad I found it.
I hope to install them next weekend w/ a Potz tb, new few filter & clean the maf. I can't wait to go for a blast. I need to pray for no new salt on the roads until then lol. Great thread, glad I found it.
01-15-2014, 12:41 AM
#64
I'm no electrician so bear with me. If less ohms make more spark, then in theory, supplying more spark to the firing tip can and will combust more fuel. My thought is that most newer cars' engines are so efficient that they are already burning all of the available fuel. Simply adding more spark voltage can't burn more fuel if there is no more fuel to burn 
but maybe I'm missing something.
If 0 ohm wires make 10-20 hp (that's .1 -.2 sec in 1/4 mi) then count me in for some cheap hp.
but maybe I'm missing something.If 0 ohm wires make 10-20 hp (that's .1 -.2 sec in 1/4 mi) then count me in for some cheap hp.
06-04-2015, 04:04 PM
#66
Ok.. I made mention of it before in this thread so I thought I would advise on my newest round of testing.
Just so everyone knows, I am not knocking the Granatelli wires, but rather have seen incompatibility issues.
Being I have tried 2 different N20 controllers (N20 launcher and Modotek NC2) both work bench testing in the vehicle in the garage motor not running but seem to have issues with the motor running, I decided to test on the dyno.
The current N20 controller is the Modotek NC2.
First test, stock wires.
NC2 is used to ground the solenoids so disconnected it from the noids, took my meter and ran a ground loop through the meter from the chassis to the controller. This would be an open loop until the controller activated.
Made a NA pull with the controller armed (no noids) and it showed the transition from open loop to closed loop (0 resistance) as expected.
Next test was with the Granatelli wires with NO OTHER CHANGES.
From the minute I started the truck, my meter no longer showed a perfect OL but rather high resistance through the controller and was fluctuating between 25x-5xx Ohms.
Made the pull and it bounced between OL and high resistance never staying in a CL.
The motor did indeed show positive results NA picking up roughly 20rwhp again through the full curve. But gaining 20rwhp NA does nothing for me when my N20 will not come on through the controller.
I also have a Harlan window switch that I have used for years. It holds a 1-2 shift solenoid on my powerglide trans and fires at a set RPM for consistency. Over the last couple years or so it has been rather inconsistent, sometimes shifts right, other times it doesn't or goes in to a safety mode. Stock wires back on, I have not had an issue with the window switch.
If you have extra electronics that don't seem to work right, double check them with a different wire.
This is not a knock on Granatelli wires, but unless Granatelli did some form of design change the solid core construction or lack of shielding could be causing incapability issues. PCM's are not affected as GM, Ford etc put them in a nice metal box to shield EMI/RF.
I have been thinking about setting up a test bench at work in the lab with my RF engineer but don't know if it is worth my time. Seems like a lot of work when I can just try a different wire.
Just so everyone knows, I am not knocking the Granatelli wires, but rather have seen incompatibility issues.
Being I have tried 2 different N20 controllers (N20 launcher and Modotek NC2) both work bench testing in the vehicle in the garage motor not running but seem to have issues with the motor running, I decided to test on the dyno.
The current N20 controller is the Modotek NC2.
First test, stock wires.
NC2 is used to ground the solenoids so disconnected it from the noids, took my meter and ran a ground loop through the meter from the chassis to the controller. This would be an open loop until the controller activated.
Made a NA pull with the controller armed (no noids) and it showed the transition from open loop to closed loop (0 resistance) as expected.
Next test was with the Granatelli wires with NO OTHER CHANGES.
From the minute I started the truck, my meter no longer showed a perfect OL but rather high resistance through the controller and was fluctuating between 25x-5xx Ohms.
Made the pull and it bounced between OL and high resistance never staying in a CL.
The motor did indeed show positive results NA picking up roughly 20rwhp again through the full curve. But gaining 20rwhp NA does nothing for me when my N20 will not come on through the controller.
I also have a Harlan window switch that I have used for years. It holds a 1-2 shift solenoid on my powerglide trans and fires at a set RPM for consistency. Over the last couple years or so it has been rather inconsistent, sometimes shifts right, other times it doesn't or goes in to a safety mode. Stock wires back on, I have not had an issue with the window switch.
If you have extra electronics that don't seem to work right, double check them with a different wire.
This is not a knock on Granatelli wires, but unless Granatelli did some form of design change the solid core construction or lack of shielding could be causing incapability issues. PCM's are not affected as GM, Ford etc put them in a nice metal box to shield EMI/RF.
I have been thinking about setting up a test bench at work in the lab with my RF engineer but don't know if it is worth my time. Seems like a lot of work when I can just try a different wire.
06-07-2015, 04:50 AM
#68
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Anyone with lots of mods or big cubes that doesn't get these wires is crazy.
We spend TENS of THOUSANDS of dollars in mods. Spending an extra hundred bucks for wires ain't **** to me.
My idle was instantly smoother and I picked up some mpg. Probably picked up decent power too but even if I picked up nothing, the part-throttle driving smoothness was worth every penny.
If my shop has time to dyno before I put in the new cam I'll post the results but many others have picked up good power and torque so it's a moot point.
Anyone complaining or knocking is just pissed at the price.
If it's too expensive for you then don't buy it.
We spend TENS of THOUSANDS of dollars in mods. Spending an extra hundred bucks for wires ain't **** to me.
My idle was instantly smoother and I picked up some mpg. Probably picked up decent power too but even if I picked up nothing, the part-throttle driving smoothness was worth every penny.
If my shop has time to dyno before I put in the new cam I'll post the results but many others have picked up good power and torque so it's a moot point.
Anyone complaining or knocking is just pissed at the price.
If it's too expensive for you then don't buy it.
06-07-2015, 07:32 AM
#69
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this guy here knows...... 
06-08-2015, 06:43 AM
#73
06-08-2015, 09:52 AM
#74
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That isn't much of a difference in price.
I clicked the link and if there's any shipping charges or other charges at checkout than you're saving 10 maybe 15 bucks.
If you call Granatelli they give you a discount over the phone.
I did.
The way everybody was posting here I thought these were supposed to be so much cheaper lol
I clicked the link and if there's any shipping charges or other charges at checkout than you're saving 10 maybe 15 bucks.
If you call Granatelli they give you a discount over the phone.
I did.
The way everybody was posting here I thought these were supposed to be so much cheaper lol
06-14-2015, 10:16 AM
#77
I'm no electrician so bear with me. If less ohms make more spark, then in theory, supplying more spark to the firing tip can and will combust more fuel. My thought is that most newer cars' engines are so efficient that they are already burning all of the available fuel. Simply adding more spark voltage can't burn more fuel if there is no more fuel to burn but maybe I'm missing something.
If 0 ohm wires make 10-20 hp (that's .1 -.2 sec in 1/4 mi) then count me in for some cheap hp.
but maybe I'm missing something.If 0 ohm wires make 10-20 hp (that's .1 -.2 sec in 1/4 mi) then count me in for some cheap hp.
Keep in mind, fuel is hp. The more fuel you can stuff in to the cyl with adequate air, the more power you will make. At some point you need good ignition to light that mixture. Ever wonder why a top fuel runs the ignition set ups they do. Provided it is a whole nother level, but basic principle applies.
Would the 0 resistance (and any change in inductance or capacitance) of the wires have any affect on timing?
06-15-2015, 03:28 PM
#79
Got my granatelli's in the mail and installed. Overall they are a really quality wire. Very stiff boot and heat shielding. I got the angled boots in order to clear my headers and a couple wires still came close but the boot DO have a little bendability in them so I just bent them out of the way and they clear everything great. As far as I know the straight boots will not bend and keep a shape but the angled ones did for me.
Idle is smoother and the throttle response is more crisp. However idk if thats because the msd's are not as good or they were 6 years old with 50k on them. Even so I'd still take the granatellis they are almost twicce the weight of the msd and the quality is much better. I paid a lot less than the 200 list price as well by calling them direct but idk if I can post it so just pm me if you want the price.
Idle is smoother and the throttle response is more crisp. However idk if thats because the msd's are not as good or they were 6 years old with 50k on them. Even so I'd still take the granatellis they are almost twicce the weight of the msd and the quality is much better. I paid a lot less than the 200 list price as well by calling them direct but idk if I can post it so just pm me if you want the price.