cam only c5z dyno
07-07-2013, 04:29 PM
#22
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pretty mild compared to op's
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...bout-time.html
read 98blue's sig
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech...cing-5-7l.html
excellent results there
It's easy to find mediocre or less results. If your happy with that then great....I'm not. Maybe that's why I have one of the highest hp ls6's out there and the 2nd highest trapping ls6. According to this thread if I put a cam in mine I would lose power.
07-07-2013, 04:44 PM
#23
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I dont mean to pick on the op but I also agree for that cam that the numbers are low. However dynos are just tuning tools if it goes and traps 128 then awesome. But mild cammed ls6 cars make around 420 from what I've seen I dont see why this one shouldnt near or beat 430, with a fast it would be a given.
His car Weighs less than a z06 actually from what I have read. I believe hio sits just under 3100 in track trim. and also has about 40 more whp hp than most b olt on z06's so those times are irrelevant here at least to me. why does he have that much? because he has spent a lot of time maximizing a setup. most z06 guys dont bother with an ewp, fast intake, underdrive pulley, 1.8 rockers etc all on a stock internals car. if everyone maxed out their bolt ons his numbers may not be so far fetched, you also must consider that on an fbody the drivetrain saps less power, which is why its more common to see an fbody ls6 car make close to 400.
What does any of that have to do with making 417 whp? His car from what everyone has seen still has a full interior and working a/c. The fact he has it lightened strategically is just smart on his part. The onyl part I would agree on there is that a faceplated trans isnt the best on the street and would normally be found in the racecar but that has nothing to do with the power the car makes or the fact it traps what it does.
Evan with his Boss 302 does essentially the same thing. He makes 460whp with a bolt on boss and has it lightened 300lbs from stock. He's doing the same thing with a different brand and no one on here calls him out for being unrealistic with power numbers even though he has surpassed many bolt on cars.
His car Weighs less than a z06 actually from what I have read. I believe hio sits just under 3100 in track trim. and also has about 40 more whp hp than most b olt on z06's so those times are irrelevant here at least to me. why does he have that much? because he has spent a lot of time maximizing a setup. most z06 guys dont bother with an ewp, fast intake, underdrive pulley, 1.8 rockers etc all on a stock internals car. if everyone maxed out their bolt ons his numbers may not be so far fetched, you also must consider that on an fbody the drivetrain saps less power, which is why its more common to see an fbody ls6 car make close to 400.
What does any of that have to do with making 417 whp? His car from what everyone has seen still has a full interior and working a/c. The fact he has it lightened strategically is just smart on his part. The onyl part I would agree on there is that a faceplated trans isnt the best on the street and would normally be found in the racecar but that has nothing to do with the power the car makes or the fact it traps what it does.
Evan with his Boss 302 does essentially the same thing. He makes 460whp with a bolt on boss and has it lightened 300lbs from stock. He's doing the same thing with a different brand and no one on here calls him out for being unrealistic with power numbers even though he has surpassed many bolt on cars.
Yeah....how come no one ever bitches about Evan's dyno results????? He still has yet to back it up the track.....I have backed mine up and people cry.
Aww, looks like I've hurt little Hio's feelings. 
Busy chasing you around the site =/= posting in the same thread you did about a local guy spewing your usual bullshit.
Oh, so those guys who have cut good 60's on 10 bolts are witch doctors...and nobody can keep a 10 bolt together for one 1.6 60'...I wouldn't call 12.65 with a 1.9 60' in a 3900+ pound car with a broken differential barely 12s, or street suspension "full suspension", but if it makes your butthurt grow that much, sure.
Or is it that you can't drive? Because I went 1.77 my first time with a fixed diff and everything...so you can only hit what, 1.7x with a 1000lb lighter car with more hp? You're scared to hurt your "street car" that you trailer to the track? Lol.
Not really. Most car guys can go fast without hacking up and creating a total piece of **** car...apparently not you...
So where did you give him advice? Refer to my other post. You're talking about a street car with a few bolt ons that made 410hp in terrible weather. But apparently it's easy to do better, so again, show me the multiple LS6 cam only combos with a few bolt ons and stock intake that have gotten to 440hp easily...again, I'll wait.
Just because you can drill holes in your car and think you're some kind of redneck engineer doesn't mean you have a street car. Your **** is a safety hazard and just because you cover pieces with plastic and sheet metal doesn't make it any less of a pile than it really is. Meents said it pretty well:
Just because you worked as a janitor on some racecar team for a few years doesn't mean you're an expert...but I guess you can always play one in your garage.
And I'll tell you what, since it's easy to get a bolt on car to 11s, here: I'll bet you $500 that you can't drive my car as it sits to 11.5 (mid 11s) or better with 3 passes. Since it is so easy to get to 11s in a bolt on car, your mother could probably do mid 11s in a cammed LS car, right?
Busy chasing you around the site =/= posting in the same thread you did about a local guy spewing your usual bullshit.
Oh, so those guys who have cut good 60's on 10 bolts are witch doctors...and nobody can keep a 10 bolt together for one 1.6 60'...I wouldn't call 12.65 with a 1.9 60' in a 3900+ pound car with a broken differential barely 12s, or street suspension "full suspension", but if it makes your butthurt grow that much, sure.
Or is it that you can't drive? Because I went 1.77 my first time with a fixed diff and everything...so you can only hit what, 1.7x with a 1000lb lighter car with more hp? You're scared to hurt your "street car" that you trailer to the track? Lol.Not really. Most car guys can go fast without hacking up and creating a total piece of **** car...apparently not you...
So where did you give him advice? Refer to my other post. You're talking about a street car with a few bolt ons that made 410hp in terrible weather. But apparently it's easy to do better, so again, show me the multiple LS6 cam only combos with a few bolt ons and stock intake that have gotten to 440hp easily...again, I'll wait.
Just because you can drill holes in your car and think you're some kind of redneck engineer doesn't mean you have a street car. Your **** is a safety hazard and just because you cover pieces with plastic and sheet metal doesn't make it any less of a pile than it really is. Meents said it pretty well:
Just because you worked as a janitor on some racecar team for a few years doesn't mean you're an expert...but I guess you can always play one in your garage.
And I'll tell you what, since it's easy to get a bolt on car to 11s, here: I'll bet you $500 that you can't drive my car as it sits to 11.5 (mid 11s) or better with 3 passes. Since it is so easy to get to 11s in a bolt on car, your mother could probably do mid 11s in a cammed LS car, right?
Your probably right guitar....I probably can't drive your car to a 11.5 with your mix/match bunch of ****. But I bet I could fix it so I can drive to there.
Looks like redbird found 2....count much? Then I added 3.
I don't know what some of you guy's problem is. You nay say cause you can't do it. Look at it this way. A solid full bolt-on ls1 will make 360+ whp. A ls6 make's 60hp more than a ls1.....that gets ya to 420. Now unless you put a itty bitty cam in it there should be no problem getting to 440.
Of course all this is dependent on your bolt-ons + tune that YOU chose. So if YOU don't get the results as good as someone else then it's YOU. You can learn from it or YOU can choose to keep sucking. For some it's just not being able to afford stuff.......for some it's just being hardheaded enough to think they're right with there less than good results.
07-07-2013, 06:44 PM
#24
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One of the hardest running c5z's I've seen had a fast 90/90, PRC stage 2 heads, and a 224r. It made 446whp on the same dyno as mine and drug some cars it had no business outrunning on the street. I drove it again today and it feels very strong. Stock clutch don't like the added power though.
07-07-2013, 07:07 PM
#26
Personally id take dyno numbers with a grain of salt. Ive known certain dynojets that read like mustang dynos.
That being said 400whp SAE corrected isn't too bad but there IS power left on the table. You have no intake manifold, no TB, and no UDP for starters. Which that alone is 20+whp just waiting to be picked up.
Take it to the track and see how it does.
That being said 400whp SAE corrected isn't too bad but there IS power left on the table. You have no intake manifold, no TB, and no UDP for starters. Which that alone is 20+whp just waiting to be picked up.
Take it to the track and see how it does.
07-07-2013, 08:26 PM
#28
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Adam's right. But from my experience from the dynojets I've been on they have read pretty much the same ~2or3.
Your parts look good 92. I was not speaking of your parts. Some people never seem to finish and get the results they should. You did good with the kooks headers. You need a Ported fast and tb now. Udp and a electric water pump. ........and more tuning. Get on a loaded dyno if you can. Spin that bitch to 7200 or so too. I betting your tune is off more than your tuner will admit. Imo you should easily out do my bolt-on dyno numbers. Even with your ls6 intake. I made 407 with a ls6 intake and ported tb. 413 with a hotrodded ls6 intake(those are dynojet #'s). You may want to pop the screen out of your mass air. Some don't like that but I did that and I ported it up.
Here's my dyno sheet.....not to butt hurt anyone but so you can compare the power differences. This was a before and after 1.8 rocker swap. Remember this dyno reads low by 3.5% compared to dynojets.
edit: I wish I had a b&a when I changed out the ls6 intake for the fast on the dyno to show you. But his printer was down that day. That change was pretty similar to the rocker swap but even more gain. These engines seem to love sorting out the little stuff.
Your parts look good 92. I was not speaking of your parts. Some people never seem to finish and get the results they should. You did good with the kooks headers. You need a Ported fast and tb now. Udp and a electric water pump. ........and more tuning. Get on a loaded dyno if you can. Spin that bitch to 7200 or so too. I betting your tune is off more than your tuner will admit. Imo you should easily out do my bolt-on dyno numbers. Even with your ls6 intake. I made 407 with a ls6 intake and ported tb. 413 with a hotrodded ls6 intake(those are dynojet #'s). You may want to pop the screen out of your mass air. Some don't like that but I did that and I ported it up.
Here's my dyno sheet.....not to butt hurt anyone but so you can compare the power differences. This was a before and after 1.8 rocker swap. Remember this dyno reads low by 3.5% compared to dynojets.
edit: I wish I had a b&a when I changed out the ls6 intake for the fast on the dyno to show you. But his printer was down that day. That change was pretty similar to the rocker swap but even more gain. These engines seem to love sorting out the little stuff.
07-07-2013, 09:46 PM
#30
bolt on z06's tend to dyno 380-400whp. From my understanding a crate ls6 in a f-body will dyno higher than a Vette due to the drive train differences.
That being said the numbers might be slightly low, but I would not get hung up on numbers. Take it to the track and see what it traps.
btw nice ride!!
That being said the numbers might be slightly low, but I would not get hung up on numbers. Take it to the track and see what it traps.
btw nice ride!!
07-07-2013, 10:20 PM
#31
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bolt on z06's tend to dyno 380-400whp. From my understanding a crate ls6 in a f-body will dyno higher than a Vette due to the drive train differences.
That being said the numbers might be slightly low, but I would not get hung up on numbers. Take it to the track and see what it traps.
btw nice ride!!
That being said the numbers might be slightly low, but I would not get hung up on numbers. Take it to the track and see what it traps.
btw nice ride!!
07-08-2013, 06:54 AM
#33
I found 2 that "made" over 440 3 if you count 437. I could **** next to a dyno and rerun that car and it could make over 440 come on bro. The 430 hp car had a tiny *** cam in it while the op's is a 235/230 donkey dick cam.
No one said your car was slow we all said it dynoed low, which is true theres no denying that. Take it to the track if it traps 126-128 then ok but if not then you need to look at things.
No one said your car was slow we all said it dynoed low, which is true theres no denying that. Take it to the track if it traps 126-128 then ok but if not then you need to look at things.
07-08-2013, 11:39 AM
#39
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With a attitude like that it will be and it will stay that way.
He won't get there red....He has stock gears, moved his tq/hp curve up but yet refuses to turn it more rpm to get where the cam wants to run. Him and Guitar are buds. .....like Lurral and Hardy....lmao. Both have under performing cam cars that sound cool and go slow for what they are.
So tell us what do those have to do with a dyno? Don't you have a gym to go to??? or maybe go check out a new fad diet. That would be the best place for your wr to start.
Take it to the track. Be sure to post up results.
It won't as long as you own it.
My bet is he won't get to 118.....to dumb to.
Said my peace.....good luck with your car op.....you need it.
I found 2 that "made" over 440 3 if you count 437. I could **** next to a dyno and rerun that car and it could make over 440 come on bro. The 430 hp car had a tiny *** cam in it while the op's is a 235/230 donkey dick cam.
No one said your car was slow we all said it dynoed low, which is true theres no denying that. Take it to the track if it traps 126-128 then ok but if not then you need to look at things.
No one said your car was slow we all said it dynoed low, which is true theres no denying that. Take it to the track if it traps 126-128 then ok but if not then you need to look at things.
So tell us what do those have to do with a dyno? Don't you have a gym to go to??? or maybe go check out a new fad diet. That would be the best place for your wr to start.
Take it to the track. Be sure to post up results.
It won't as long as you own it.
My bet is he won't get to 118.....to dumb to.
Said my peace.....good luck with your car op.....you need it.
07-08-2013, 11:52 AM
#40
Bolt on c5 z06's approach low 120 traps pretty regularly. If your donkey dick cammed car cant crack a 122 trap your doing something completely wrong.
I'm bowing out of this thread, its like the blind leading the blind. When did z06's become so slow? Bolt on z06' with a 235/240 cam and your hoping for a 122 trap? If the car is setup properly as you claim 125 should be no problem. Its been done with baby cam cars and even bolt on cars
I'm bowing out of this thread, its like the blind leading the blind. When did z06's become so slow? Bolt on z06' with a 235/240 cam and your hoping for a 122 trap? If the car is setup properly as you claim 125 should be no problem. Its been done with baby cam cars and even bolt on cars