T-Rex, Stage 3 Heads, Fast 92/NW92, full bolt on #'s seem low
#21
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Mine drove great.. It's all in the tune..
11-1 cr 347
Old Absolute Speed 2.5 heads from 2003
LS6 intake with ported TB
Edelbrock 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 headers
3" X-pipe
80E with 3,600 verter
3.73's with 30" drag radial
Drivability did get better when I went from 3,600 stall to 4,500. It got even better when I went from the LS6 to Super Vic. It also improved when I went from 3.73 to 4.56.
It was a real turd though when it has the stock verter in it. It did still drive nice, no surging etc. But a full Open loop SD helps.
11-1 cr 347
Old Absolute Speed 2.5 heads from 2003
LS6 intake with ported TB
Edelbrock 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 headers
3" X-pipe
80E with 3,600 verter
3.73's with 30" drag radial
Drivability did get better when I went from 3,600 stall to 4,500. It got even better when I went from the LS6 to Super Vic. It also improved when I went from 3.73 to 4.56.
It was a real turd though when it has the stock verter in it. It did still drive nice, no surging etc. But a full Open loop SD helps.
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#22
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I would look into fuel injector dial in, happened to me, we had a brand new engine dino tune to it made great power few days later the tuner showed up and asked for the key, I asked what for? he said key! I said here then he asked to go and drive it, immediately I noticed really crisp and sharp, better than before I soon found out was way faster, just one thing it was going to the rev limiter so I asked why tuner said key! I said here, then ask to go try it, was shifting gears perfectly on time as before the changes, I asked what did he do now, tuner said he increased the transmission line pressure to the max. That's how much extra power it picked up by simply and more accurately dialing in the fuel injectors.
#23
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You obviously missed the part where I had a stock verter in it first. To add to that, part throttle I had it shifting in to 2nd at roughly 10mph and instantly locking the verter once in 2nd. Roughly 1200-1500 in second at that point with no surging. This kept the trans nice and cool.
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The more I think about it the more I feel something's way off.
A max effort heads/ cam should trap over 130. Except for maybe the heads you have a lot of the ingredients to make 470hp.
A max effort heads/ cam should trap over 130. Except for maybe the heads you have a lot of the ingredients to make 470hp.
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You obviously missed the part where I had a stock verter in it first. To add to that, part throttle I had it shifting in to 2nd at roughly 10mph and instantly locking the verter once in 2nd. Roughly 1200-1500 in second at that point with no surging. This kept the trans nice and cool.
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[QUOTE=01 blue bullitt;18462499]My trex cam stock bottom end ls1 made 461 through a 4l60e, 4.10's, and
Stock heads? If so I have to believe that's a very generous dyno lol
Stock heads? If so I have to believe that's a very generous dyno lol
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Ryne,
You can call BS on what ever you would like, I spent quite a while working on the tune with a stock verter and know first hand how it drove. Driving well and performing well are two very different things. From a dig it would not even spin the tires out of the hole and did not come alive until 5k rpm. But, it did not surge, buck, stall at low rpm even at 45mph converter locked (1500rpm - 3.73 with 26" tire). It also idled in gear at 750rpm..
#31
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Ryne,
You can call BS on what ever you would like, I spent quite a while working on the tune with a stock verter and know first hand how it drove. Driving well and performing well are two very different things. From a dig it would not even spin the tires out of the hole and did not come alive until 5k rpm. But, it did not surge, buck, stall at low rpm even at 45mph converter locked (1500rpm - 3.73 with 26" tire). It also idled in gear at 750rpm..
You can call BS on what ever you would like, I spent quite a while working on the tune with a stock verter and know first hand how it drove. Driving well and performing well are two very different things. From a dig it would not even spin the tires out of the hole and did not come alive until 5k rpm. But, it did not surge, buck, stall at low rpm even at 45mph converter locked (1500rpm - 3.73 with 26" tire). It also idled in gear at 750rpm..
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#32
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Ryne,
You can call BS on what ever you would like, I spent quite a while working on the tune with a stock verter and know first hand how it drove. Driving well and performing well are two very different things. From a dig it would not even spin the tires out of the hole and did not come alive until 5k rpm. But, it did not surge, buck, stall at low rpm even at 45mph converter locked (1500rpm - 3.73 with 26" tire). It also idled in gear at 750rpm..
You can call BS on what ever you would like, I spent quite a while working on the tune with a stock verter and know first hand how it drove. Driving well and performing well are two very different things. From a dig it would not even spin the tires out of the hole and did not come alive until 5k rpm. But, it did not surge, buck, stall at low rpm even at 45mph converter locked (1500rpm - 3.73 with 26" tire). It also idled in gear at 750rpm..
#33
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Scotty, I don't disagree if you are paying someone to tune it. I knew there was a growth path that I was taking when I did it. Since I do my own tuning, there was no real out of pocket cost other than fuel, but I wanted to drive it anyway.
The AFR did not change much when moving from one converter to another. If anything I would say getting the tune dialed with the tight converter only helped me tune the full VE table. You miss a good amount of the table with a loose converter, well, you don't spend much time in them unless you lock the verter at a very low RPM.
The AFR did not change much when moving from one converter to another. If anything I would say getting the tune dialed with the tight converter only helped me tune the full VE table. You miss a good amount of the table with a loose converter, well, you don't spend much time in them unless you lock the verter at a very low RPM.