somws6bird

I'm just a little concerned about my combo, I know that dyno numbers don't mean anything but I felt this combo should have put out more. Opinions welcome. Drive ability is also not as great as I would have hoped for, for as much as I spent. I won't say where I went to preserve the integrity of the shop. If these numbers sound legit to most of you than I may be just talking out of my *** for no reason but that's why I'm posting to make sure I'm not blowing smoke.

Motor/exhaust
T-Rex 243/250 610/615 LSA 110
Stage III Patriot Heads (64cc not %100) but they are Stage III for sure
Fast92/Nick Williams 92TB Combo
FAST TOYS 104mm lid/Chris1313 Ram air setup
UD pulley
Mezier Electric Water pump,
NO power steering
NO A/C
Kooks 1 7/8 stepped Headers, Kooks catted Y, open cutout
BR7EF plugs gaped .030
Lingenfelter timing tuner meant for a max effort motor only setup and spray when I want just a little more

Driveline
T56,
Monster Level 4 clutch with billet lightweight flywheel
PST aluminum driveshaft
MWC Fab 9', Wavetrack, Aluminum Center section,
Moser lightweight race axles, Gun drilled, Outer part drilled also for weight savings by MWC. These were the lightest, strongest axles at the time I got them
4.33 gear
28' Hoosier QTP with Lightweight Bogarts Welded RT

Fuel, VP 110 full tank
60lb injectors,
(2) 255 Walbro's with the racetronix kit

Speed density tune on VP110
Timing was said to be very aggressive. I don't know the exact timing
Numbers were 436rwhp and 390rwtq on a DYNOJET, I dynoed 440 on a mustang dyno 2 years ago? Shouldn't I have made more on a Dynojet? With a 175shot numbers were at 575tq and 580tq.

I was told that the combo was an aggressive tune but it doesn't seem like it. Is it just me or does this combo seem like it should have put down more? Everything installed on the car were the lightest material's I could have put together.

When the car was picked up the same amount of full was still in the tank? Shouldn't a tune that takes supposedly all day require at least a few gallons.
Opinions wanted. Thanks you

MikeWS6

That rear/clutch will eat up some power. I hear Patriot heads are not the greatest. I wouldnt be worried tho.

JIMS SVT

iTrader: (3)

The gear and the hoosiers will eat some power. Id try a set of stock wheels/street radials next time. And use that same setup every time its on the dyno.
Was there any pulls made with the cutout open?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

My car is a lot like yours on the dyno, but runs way faster on the street and track...Some things are just hard to explain lol

td1168

iTrader: (2)

IMO your numbers don't look bad. I had my car on a mustang dyno and Phil Smith's dynojet with the same build and got the same numbers. Our builds are pretty close and I'm about the same numbers.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

Maybe your aggressive tune sucks lol wonder how much timing is in it? But take it to the track and see what happens.

74u

iTrader: (9)

Stock LS1 bore?

If so I'm wondering how you have Patriot III's on it? My Patriot III heads had 2.08 intake valves which I wouldn't think they would clear anything less than a 4" bore.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Dynojet doesn't mean higher numbers.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

The heads would not be my first choice although some have made good power with them. I believe it is just a quality control issue being why they get a bad rap. The catted Y is also not helping with power. I would be more interested in seeing trap speed along with the Density Altitude. That setup should do 122-123 depending on the air and weight of the car.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

So true! More often than one may think too

Paul Allen

What kind of times do you expect to run?

somws6bird

Stock LS1 bore, Car's weight sits at about 2950, maybe a little lighter. I expect to run high 10's/low 11's on motor. It's basically a max effort motor setup with spray if I need it.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

It will run 10s if you can drive.

Gabbiani

iTrader: (20)

What does the compression look like? Unless it is insane I would say ditch the 110 and put a legitimate amount of timing in it.

That cam is pretty big and will be bleeding off lots of cylinder pressure.

74u

iTrader: (9)

If it's a stock bore I still don't understand how Patriot III's fit?

2.08 valves would hit the bore, right?

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

AFR 230s fit a 3.9 bore with a 2.08 valve.

Mazzenger

iTrader: (5)

Patriot heads have to been known to be hit or miss.
And you have a few parts that are stealing power but adding strength at the same time.

Perhaps the shop that tuned it filled your tank back up?
Check your invoice to see if there was a fuel fee or something?

I would go to whomever did the work and ask them any concerning questions.

vetteboy2k

iTrader: (5)

I pretty much agree with everyone. The numbers are low and the heads aren't ideal but they are just dyno numbers. Run it at the track and let's see what she's got.
I'm going to be testing my max effort "cam only" setup this week. I'll report back.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Did you really expect a 243/250 110 LSA cam to drive great in a 346

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Mine drove great.. It's all in the tune..
11-1 cr 347
Old Absolute Speed 2.5 heads from 2003
LS6 intake with ported TB
Edelbrock 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 headers
3" X-pipe
80E with 3,600 verter
3.73's with 30" drag radial


Drivability did get better when I went from 3,600 stall to 4,500. It got even better when I went from the LS6 to Super Vic. It also improved when I went from 3.73 to 4.56.

It was a real turd though when it has the stock verter in it. It did still drive nice, no surging etc. But a full Open loop SD helps.