233/239 TSP Cam and FAST 102mm gains
#1
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233/239 TSP Cam and FAST 102mm gains
Got the car tuned a few weeks ago. I have full exhaust and suspension so this was the first time I have opened up the engine for anything. I had the car on the dyno back when I was in Germany and got 348hp/378tq. car has always been pretty strong and ran a best of 12.8 back when I first got it with a ported throttle body and a lid.
This winter I did a Texas Speed 233/239 .600, .600 cam, PRC .650 dual springs with tit retainers. TSP 7.4 pushrods, ATI 10% UD pulley, Turn One PSP, Cloyes C5R timing chain, Melling oil pump, FAST 102mm intake and a Nick Williams 102MM throttle body. I also put in a new monster LT1-s dual clutch as my old monster stage 2 was gone. Car made 430hp/390tq (82hp/12tq gain). This is in nice high Utah air as well.
I am happy with the results. The tune need a little bit of work as I still have a little bit of bucking issues but nothing to serious. I also am still running the stock MAF and just installed a new screen after the tune as the tuner said he was getting some crazy numbers right after throttle tip in.
This winter I did a Texas Speed 233/239 .600, .600 cam, PRC .650 dual springs with tit retainers. TSP 7.4 pushrods, ATI 10% UD pulley, Turn One PSP, Cloyes C5R timing chain, Melling oil pump, FAST 102mm intake and a Nick Williams 102MM throttle body. I also put in a new monster LT1-s dual clutch as my old monster stage 2 was gone. Car made 430hp/390tq (82hp/12tq gain). This is in nice high Utah air as well.
I am happy with the results. The tune need a little bit of work as I still have a little bit of bucking issues but nothing to serious. I also am still running the stock MAF and just installed a new screen after the tune as the tuner said he was getting some crazy numbers right after throttle tip in.
Last edited by Chrisingermany; 06-22-2016 at 02:39 PM.
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#9
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Thanks!
Love the monster. Going from the stage 2 this one feels so light with pedal feel. Feels and drives like stock for sure.
#10
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Update:
I jumped on the new 104mm clear lid by FTP to hopefully compliment my fast 102 install. I was using a SLP lid until now, and don't think that's an air restriction issue with stock cubes but going bigger shouldn't hurt anything. I was still using the stock maf that I ported years ago but there is a big difference between that and a 102mm tube.
I purchased a 10" long piece of 4" exhaust pipe from a local exhaust piece and a few 4" diameter pieces of silicone hose and clamps from a local hose place.
I cut it down and got everything lined up. Should have opened up the air track a good amount.
Next I will work on my SD tune. Not getting a new maf. I will also powdercoat the new pipe after I decide on color.
My only issue is I hate the blue color and may order some black online here soon.
I jumped on the new 104mm clear lid by FTP to hopefully compliment my fast 102 install. I was using a SLP lid until now, and don't think that's an air restriction issue with stock cubes but going bigger shouldn't hurt anything. I was still using the stock maf that I ported years ago but there is a big difference between that and a 102mm tube.
I purchased a 10" long piece of 4" exhaust pipe from a local exhaust piece and a few 4" diameter pieces of silicone hose and clamps from a local hose place.
I cut it down and got everything lined up. Should have opened up the air track a good amount.
Next I will work on my SD tune. Not getting a new maf. I will also powdercoat the new pipe after I decide on color.
My only issue is I hate the blue color and may order some black online here soon.
Last edited by Chrisingermany; 02-10-2017 at 12:17 PM.
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Looks good. I will be building something similar once I get my LS3 into the Trans Am, but that won't be for a while. I will keep the MAF, but I'm using the newer 5-wire blade-style with an adapter from the 3-wire and IAT sensors. I will try to fabricate the intermediary pipe from plastic though, as I want to avoid heat soak if possible. I will also make my own screen out of this honeycomb stuff.
Your fabrication looks good, my hats off to you. Just a few constructive questions: Do you run solid motor mounts? If not, is there enough side-to-side play in the rubber couplers for driveline twist? From your working-photo of the tube with only one coupler on it (measuring tape in the background), it looks like it fits pretty tight up against the throttle body. Knowing how fragile the clear intake lids are supposed to be, I thought I might point this out just to be safe.
Your fabrication looks good, my hats off to you. Just a few constructive questions: Do you run solid motor mounts? If not, is there enough side-to-side play in the rubber couplers for driveline twist? From your working-photo of the tube with only one coupler on it (measuring tape in the background), it looks like it fits pretty tight up against the throttle body. Knowing how fragile the clear intake lids are supposed to be, I thought I might point this out just to be safe.
#17
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I have heard that plastic will break down (if it's pvc or something) and put off some nasty gasses when it gets upwards of 250+. It might not get that hot while the car is running, but a hot day after the car is shut off it might cause issues. I also bought a 102mm honeycomb screen from Saxon pc, but with no MAF I shouldn't need to use it. I do have solid motor mounts but I will watch for issues of contact for sure. I bought 2 clear lids knowing how fragile they seem to be.
#19
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It's good. It loves the high revs and is a little sluggish down low but I like it. Minor surge when it is lugged in the lower RPMs, but nothing I can't handle. I am sure a rear end gear change would help a bunch. How are you liking yours?