H/C/I Dyno Results! Any opinions?
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H/C/I Dyno Results! Any opinions?
I just finished up my build and had dyno tuning done just yesterday. I go and get the car back today, can't wait. but in the meantime I think my results are low. Want some opinions....
Build:
Stock Bottom End LS1, 346ci
TSP long tube headers w/ 3" off-road y-pipe, no cats
SLP LM2 Exhaust
LS6 intake manifold
LS7 Lifters
TEA Stage 2 243 CNC'd cylinder heads
EPS 222/226 .604/.604 113+2 cam
42# Bosch Injectors
EGR & AIR delete
4L60E Trans
This is all in a 2000 Camaro Z28
Now, I don't know if they tuned the car aggressive or conservative as I haven't been able to ask those questions. But the final HP number was 390. I don't have the torque numbers yet.
I think the 390whp is a little low on this combination, especially with the cylinder heads.
I'm thinking 430 to 460 may be in the realm of where it should be?
This was done on a Mustang Dyno.
Any thoughts?
Build:
Stock Bottom End LS1, 346ci
TSP long tube headers w/ 3" off-road y-pipe, no cats
SLP LM2 Exhaust
LS6 intake manifold
LS7 Lifters
TEA Stage 2 243 CNC'd cylinder heads
EPS 222/226 .604/.604 113+2 cam
42# Bosch Injectors
EGR & AIR delete
4L60E Trans
This is all in a 2000 Camaro Z28
Now, I don't know if they tuned the car aggressive or conservative as I haven't been able to ask those questions. But the final HP number was 390. I don't have the torque numbers yet.
I think the 390whp is a little low on this combination, especially with the cylinder heads.
I'm thinking 430 to 460 may be in the realm of where it should be?
This was done on a Mustang Dyno.
Any thoughts?
#2
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Youd need a bigger cam than that esp on an auto. Eps cams are nice but not magic.
If its fun to drive then have fun. If you are worried about a number either go to an unloaded dyno or get a diff cam. Spinning an unloaded roller is easy but will show unrealistic numbers.
If its fun to drive then have fun. If you are worried about a number either go to an unloaded dyno or get a diff cam. Spinning an unloaded roller is easy but will show unrealistic numbers.
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Youd need a bigger cam than that esp on an auto. Eps cams are nice but not magic.
If its fun to drive then have fun. If you are worried about a number either go to an unloaded dyno or get a difd cam. Spinning an unloaded roller is easy but will show unrealistic numbers.
If its fun to drive then have fun. If you are worried about a number either go to an unloaded dyno or get a difd cam. Spinning an unloaded roller is easy but will show unrealistic numbers.
And yeah, the cylinder heads are probably screaming for a larger cam. This was a good place to start. It is my first build on an LS engine.
I'm sure it'll still be a blast to get back in and drive! From my baseline over a year ago, I'm gaining over 110whp. That's nothing to turn a nose up to.
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Like said see how it performs. Mustang dyno, auto trans, mild cam, ls6 intake, single exhaust.
Probably drives awesome & makes some nice power. What compression do you think?
Probably drives awesome & makes some nice power. What compression do you think?
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Personally, for your build list, on a mustang dyno, through an auto trans, I think 390 is about right.
If you're concerned about it a cam in the 227-230 range would make a big difference as would jumping up to a fast 92. Also, if your merge sucks, that Y pipe can kill power.
FWIW, most of the mild cam builds running 430+ hp are running aftermarket heads and have other optimizations as well.
If you're concerned about it a cam in the 227-230 range would make a big difference as would jumping up to a fast 92. Also, if your merge sucks, that Y pipe can kill power.
FWIW, most of the mild cam builds running 430+ hp are running aftermarket heads and have other optimizations as well.
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Cylinder heads have a 65cc chamber and I used a .040 head gasket. Couldn't get a super accurate measurement on how far the pistons were out of the hole, but it was between 0" and 0.007".
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Personally, for your build list, on a mustang dyno, through an auto trans, I think 390 is about right.
If you're concerned about it a cam in the 227-230 range would make a big difference as would jumping up to a fast 92. Also, if your merge sucks, that Y pipe can kill power.
FWIW, most of the mild cam builds running 430+ hp are running aftermarket heads and have other optimizations as well.
If you're concerned about it a cam in the 227-230 range would make a big difference as would jumping up to a fast 92. Also, if your merge sucks, that Y pipe can kill power.
FWIW, most of the mild cam builds running 430+ hp are running aftermarket heads and have other optimizations as well.
Tried to get into a FAST92 but I got a really good deal on the LS6 intake of a clean, low mileage Z06. So, I went that route.
The merge on the TSP y-pipe is beautiful. Real nice flowmaster merge.
I've got the starting pieces of a pretty aggressive N/A build but this was my first LS build and I did it all under $4k.
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Using the stock stall would make it dyno higher than a stall would normally unless locked up.
An ls1 will take around a 227 intake dur and mid 230s exhaust before surging enough to need a stall. You can cut it wider on the lsa and it still work though.
The stall isnt just to tame surge though, its to get the most out of your combo. You be surprised how much more fun your car would be to drive with a 2800 stall and quicker also. Nowadays thats considered a small stall even. Above that youd want at least 3.42s to cruise ok in lockup without causing issues also.
Running more duration on the exhaust would help power quite a bit yet still keep your bottom end power and have a more aggressive idle also. Youd be surprised what even 3 degrees would do.
An ls1 will take around a 227 intake dur and mid 230s exhaust before surging enough to need a stall. You can cut it wider on the lsa and it still work though.
The stall isnt just to tame surge though, its to get the most out of your combo. You be surprised how much more fun your car would be to drive with a 2800 stall and quicker also. Nowadays thats considered a small stall even. Above that youd want at least 3.42s to cruise ok in lockup without causing issues also.
Running more duration on the exhaust would help power quite a bit yet still keep your bottom end power and have a more aggressive idle also. Youd be surprised what even 3 degrees would do.
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Using the stock stall would make it dyno higher than a stall would normally unless locked up.
An ls1 will take around a 227 intake dur and mid 230s exhaust before surging enough to need a stall. You can cut it wider on the lsa and it still work though.
The stall isnt just to tame surge though, its to get the most out of your combo. You be surprised how much more fun your car would be to drive with a 2800 stall and quicker also. Nowadays thats considered a small stall even. Above that youd want at least 3.42s to cruise ok in lockup without causing issues also.
Running more duration on the exhaust would help power quite a bit yet still keep your bottom end power and have a more aggressive idle also. Youd be surprised what even 3 degrees would do.
An ls1 will take around a 227 intake dur and mid 230s exhaust before surging enough to need a stall. You can cut it wider on the lsa and it still work though.
The stall isnt just to tame surge though, its to get the most out of your combo. You be surprised how much more fun your car would be to drive with a 2800 stall and quicker also. Nowadays thats considered a small stall even. Above that youd want at least 3.42s to cruise ok in lockup without causing issues also.
Running more duration on the exhaust would help power quite a bit yet still keep your bottom end power and have a more aggressive idle also. Youd be surprised what even 3 degrees would do.
Converter I'll look into after I get a chance to drive it. But yes, a higher stall will make a big difference as well, definitely agree!
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Well, besides that the exhaust is so raspy that I don't think I can take it, it made 395hp/365tq. HP was all the way out at 6180rpm and that was the graph cutoff. So it was still climbing at that point, it seems. Torque curve is relatively flat.
I'll get a the dyno sheet scanned in and posted when I can as well. Something doesn't feel right with it on the street, but I've driven it a total of 9 miles. It stalled on me once pulling into a friend's driveway so with no load it seems to want to die on deceleration. Also seems to sit at pretty much idle speed when no load cruising, which also seems strange. Could any of these things be due to the factory torque converter with this combo?
I'll get a the dyno sheet scanned in and posted when I can as well. Something doesn't feel right with it on the street, but I've driven it a total of 9 miles. It stalled on me once pulling into a friend's driveway so with no load it seems to want to die on deceleration. Also seems to sit at pretty much idle speed when no load cruising, which also seems strange. Could any of these things be due to the factory torque converter with this combo?
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That cam would not have made power past that anyway even with ls6 intake.
What you are experiencing has nothing to do with your converter and everything to do with your tune. now if the tune is keeping the converter locked during decel etc then its an issue, but still in the tune.
What you are experiencing has nothing to do with your converter and everything to do with your tune. now if the tune is keeping the converter locked during decel etc then its an issue, but still in the tune.
Last edited by tech@WS6store; 06-16-2017 at 05:29 PM.
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That's a stout combo for a stock trans/converter/gear. A litter more fine tuning will prolly fix the decel issues. I wouldn't worry about your numbers, HP was still climbing on the graph. If you aren't satisfied with the track times then the ONLY things I would consider changing are a stall and gear and DR. I would go 3200-3500 and 3.90-4.10 without ever looking back. You will still have amazing drivability with these mods and pick up at least a half second in the 1/8 and over a second in the 1/4. MT et streets 275/50s are what I would use. Full weight set them at 20-22 and let it eat.
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That's a stout combo for a stock trans/converter/gear. A litter more fine tuning will prolly fix the decel issues. I wouldn't worry about your numbers, HP was still climbing on the graph. If you aren't satisfied with the track times then the ONLY things I would consider changing are a stall and gear and DR. I would go 3200-3500 and 3.90-4.10 without ever looking back. You will still have amazing drivability with these mods and pick up at least a half second in the 1/8 and over a second in the 1/4. MT et streets 275/50s are what I would use. Full weight set them at 20-22 and let it eat.
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Originally Posted by jm112583
Dyno Sheet