goona need you help, numbers are low (update Aug 1)
#61
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
please explain where im not taking advice.....
i got the exhaust on there, which isn't the best but due to space constraints and needing to pass inspection, my best bet for now is a 3 inch into 4 inch flowmaster merge dumped before axle. feels a little better in the driveability area, but this thing still needs some work on the street side........cruising at 68 mph, 1800 rpms it still wants to surge a little. its got more surge than my 346 did with a 236/238.
one thing im noticing is my coolant is fluctuating. and its easily noticeable by my oil pressure. it wants to stay at 194 according to my scanner, but then i looked down during a WOT pull and notice my oil pressure is just a steady 40 when my rpms climb. im on my second batch of BR30, ported melting 10296. i hooked the scanner and now it says im at 212. i continue driving and temp doesnt really drop. i have seen it at 3 different operating temps. at 194 my cruising oil pressure is about 43 according to gauge, at 204 or so my oil psi cruising is 40, at 212 cruising is about 37.
so i will investigate into that. will first probably start by TAKING ADVICE and drilling a hole or 2 in the thermostat and see how that helps. its a black car and temps were about 70 outside so not too hot but warm.
i got the exhaust on there, which isn't the best but due to space constraints and needing to pass inspection, my best bet for now is a 3 inch into 4 inch flowmaster merge dumped before axle. feels a little better in the driveability area, but this thing still needs some work on the street side........cruising at 68 mph, 1800 rpms it still wants to surge a little. its got more surge than my 346 did with a 236/238.
one thing im noticing is my coolant is fluctuating. and its easily noticeable by my oil pressure. it wants to stay at 194 according to my scanner, but then i looked down during a WOT pull and notice my oil pressure is just a steady 40 when my rpms climb. im on my second batch of BR30, ported melting 10296. i hooked the scanner and now it says im at 212. i continue driving and temp doesnt really drop. i have seen it at 3 different operating temps. at 194 my cruising oil pressure is about 43 according to gauge, at 204 or so my oil psi cruising is 40, at 212 cruising is about 37.
so i will investigate into that. will first probably start by TAKING ADVICE and drilling a hole or 2 in the thermostat and see how that helps. its a black car and temps were about 70 outside so not too hot but warm.
Then several posts mentioned the temp based fueling and spark and the iat sensor. If you don’t know where that’s at, you are pissing up a rope. Your possibly leaving big power on the table there if it’s pulling timing or dumping fuel if the tables are too aggressive.
You were told you needed big tube headers. You have them I guess but didn’t install them.
You went to the Dyno half cocked, half prepared and had all sorts of problems and you are disappointed in your numbers? No offense, but I find this comical.
I say say get your **** together. Stop making excuses. Put your big tube headers on. Put the exhaust on you are going to use. Get a better intake. Have your **** tuned correctly and make sure you arent having any timing pulled. And I’ll bet with all of your errors TOGETHER you will pick up a good bit of power. You are looking for a single problem and a single answer but yet you have several problems. As soon as you realize that and address them all, you’ll be on the right path.
#62
i never said the intake isn't the problem, what i did say was the TUNER SAID THERE IS NO SIGNIFICANT EVIDENCE THAT AIRFLOW IN IS RESTRICTING THINGS!!!! many of you here seem to disagree, and i mentioned in an earlier post where i think that my intake setup surely is not helping here. financially we went with a stock piece and reused all the stuff in front of it for now.
spark tables, i tried getting data from the tuner and they refused to hand it over, not sure what else i can do here since i have tried to get data for further diagnostics and they are unwilling to help in this area.
plenty of cars out there only running 1 7/8 headers making more power than me, but obviously we will benefit. the kooks will clearly need a retune so will save those for when the msd goes on. those arent on there because it was a new motor and many have said dont break in coated headers on a new motor.
half prepared for the dyno? ok so i had the coolant crossover and overflow lines backwards....silly mistake and easy fix. the fuel i didn't no it was so easy to drain by jumping the relay. sorry im an amateur. and as for the alignment, i couldn't get it aligned because it would have needed to be driven to the alignment ship. couldn't drive it, new motor. not sure what else i could do in this situation .the car came a very long way in a short amount of time, and im just glad we made the dyno appointment.
spark tables, i tried getting data from the tuner and they refused to hand it over, not sure what else i can do here since i have tried to get data for further diagnostics and they are unwilling to help in this area.
plenty of cars out there only running 1 7/8 headers making more power than me, but obviously we will benefit. the kooks will clearly need a retune so will save those for when the msd goes on. those arent on there because it was a new motor and many have said dont break in coated headers on a new motor.
half prepared for the dyno? ok so i had the coolant crossover and overflow lines backwards....silly mistake and easy fix. the fuel i didn't no it was so easy to drain by jumping the relay. sorry im an amateur. and as for the alignment, i couldn't get it aligned because it would have needed to be driven to the alignment ship. couldn't drive it, new motor. not sure what else i could do in this situation .the car came a very long way in a short amount of time, and im just glad we made the dyno appointment.
#64
interestingly enough, i did notice the oil gauge futtering left and right ever ever so slightly, it is an ac telco sender with about 5000 miles on it. it just randomly does it for a second and levels out. im not goona stress about it yet, the oil pressure at idle when its at 212 engine temp is about 31, so it is a little low, but i think the br30 is 5-30 so we could run something a little thicker like a valvoline 20-50 but will research into that when i decided to swap out this break in conventional.
ill probably start another thread about the coolant temps or doe some research next week when i have time to start digging
ill probably start another thread about the coolant temps or doe some research next week when i have time to start digging
Last edited by Floorman279; 05-17-2019 at 10:32 AM. Reason: ......
#66
yea i was afraid of this. it seems like this only happens when the oil is at 212. i will do some pulls later today when the scanner says 194, i have done several pulls before and noticed the gauge has been around 55 at WOT so im thinking this is occurring when the oil is hot.
is 40 psi at 6500 not enough oil and should i not be doing WOT pulls right now?
is 40 psi at 6500 not enough oil and should i not be doing WOT pulls right now?
#68
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Delta
please elaborate more for me about delta.....i have heard that term but unsure of how it affect things (not being a smart *** legit question)
i believe he said he got 26 degrees, under WOT my scanner does say 26 degrees.
fueling is a lonnies doubles, im pretty certain he used twin walbro 340s. only one pump was running.
i believe he said he got 26 degrees, under WOT my scanner does say 26 degrees.
fueling is a lonnies doubles, im pretty certain he used twin walbro 340s. only one pump was running.
Last edited by Double06; 05-17-2019 at 12:58 PM. Reason: adding stuff
#73
no problem. i think this 5 30 break in could be a little thin for the bearings so when i get home on sunday im goona post up the numbers and switch out oils to see what difference that makes. cold start it goes right to 55 and cruising when hot sits right around 42-44 so it just seems like every now and then it decides to act up.
#74
no problem. i think this 5 30 break in could be a little thin for the bearings so when i get home on sunday im goona post up the numbers and switch out oils to see what difference that makes. cold start it goes right to 55 and cruising when hot sits right around 42-44 so it just seems like every now and then it decides to act up.
A WOT oil psi in the 6 to 7000's shouldn't be pegged at 40. That's a red flag that needs to be looked in to.
#77
please explain where im not taking advice.....so i can actually try to help myself
i got the exhaust on there, which isn't the best but due to space constraints and needing to pass inspection, my best bet for now is a 3 inch into 4 inch flowmaster merge dumped before axle. feels a little better in the driveability area, but this thing still needs some work on the street side........cruising at 68 mph, 1800 rpms it still wants to surge a little. its got more surge than my 346 did with a 236/238.
one thing im noticing is my coolant is fluctuating. and its easily noticeable by my oil pressure. it wants to stay at 194 according to my scanner, but then i looked down during a WOT pull and notice my oil pressure is just a steady 40 when my rpms climb. im on my second batch of BR30, ported melting 10296. i hooked the scanner and now it says im at 212. i continue driving and temp doesnt really drop. i have seen it at 3 different operating temps. at 194 my cruising oil pressure is about 43 according to gauge, at 204 or so my oil psi cruising is 40, at 212 cruising is about 37. this is an aluminum block with stock ls1 radiator.
so could this be my heat issue? i know the ls likes to operate a little warmer than other motors, but i think we can agree it shouldn't be at 212........will it make less power at 212 rather than 194 assuming the IAT isn't heat soaking? while sitting and idling in traffic for 30 minutes my IAT didn't go above 110 from what i saw but after cruising at 30 mph for 1 minute they dropped to the mid 90s and cruising was right around 75 which was pretty close to outside temp.
so i will investigate into that. will first probably start by TAKING ADVICE and drilling a hole or 2 in the thermostat and see how that helps. its a black car and temps were about 70 outside so not too hot but warm.
i got the exhaust on there, which isn't the best but due to space constraints and needing to pass inspection, my best bet for now is a 3 inch into 4 inch flowmaster merge dumped before axle. feels a little better in the driveability area, but this thing still needs some work on the street side........cruising at 68 mph, 1800 rpms it still wants to surge a little. its got more surge than my 346 did with a 236/238.
one thing im noticing is my coolant is fluctuating. and its easily noticeable by my oil pressure. it wants to stay at 194 according to my scanner, but then i looked down during a WOT pull and notice my oil pressure is just a steady 40 when my rpms climb. im on my second batch of BR30, ported melting 10296. i hooked the scanner and now it says im at 212. i continue driving and temp doesnt really drop. i have seen it at 3 different operating temps. at 194 my cruising oil pressure is about 43 according to gauge, at 204 or so my oil psi cruising is 40, at 212 cruising is about 37. this is an aluminum block with stock ls1 radiator.
so could this be my heat issue? i know the ls likes to operate a little warmer than other motors, but i think we can agree it shouldn't be at 212........will it make less power at 212 rather than 194 assuming the IAT isn't heat soaking? while sitting and idling in traffic for 30 minutes my IAT didn't go above 110 from what i saw but after cruising at 30 mph for 1 minute they dropped to the mid 90s and cruising was right around 75 which was pretty close to outside temp.
so i will investigate into that. will first probably start by TAKING ADVICE and drilling a hole or 2 in the thermostat and see how that helps. its a black car and temps were about 70 outside so not too hot but warm.
#78
so i took the car to a shop in my area thats closer to work, easier to drop off etc. i had originally scheduled him to install the 2 inch headers, hoping that somehow it makes 15 more knowing im pretty much wasting my time, but i figured he could also work on some drivability. he installed the headers and did one pull on the existing tune. didn't even break 500 on his dyno jet. so i should have had him do a compression/leak down first to save myself money but whatever. so he only checked bank 1 because he really didn't have to go to bank 2. cylinder 1 came in around 140ish which is low for 11.8ish-1 compression. cylinders 3 5 and 7 didn't make 3 digits, he wrote the numbers down but said they were around 80ish. so basically this motor needs to come back out. whats crazy is it makes no noise, makes no exhaust smoke, and i think the mighty mouse can vent would have some smoke coming out. honestly if it exhibited any signs of bottom end issues he probably wouldnt have done the header install.....is it common sometimes for it to be smoking? if it was 1 cylinder that is bad i would start asking questions about possible valve issue, maybe the seat isn't right but im pretty sure thats not the case.
what also has me puzzled is how this thing is still make 480ish hp with 3 basically useless cylinders? and we have no idea what the other bank was reading. this was a second hand motor so guess i shouldn't have done that. maybe the break in didn't go well for whatever reason or the seller knew something that i didn't. either way i guess i will update in a few weeks with what decision i do.
what also has me puzzled is how this thing is still make 480ish hp with 3 basically useless cylinders? and we have no idea what the other bank was reading. this was a second hand motor so guess i shouldn't have done that. maybe the break in didn't go well for whatever reason or the seller knew something that i didn't. either way i guess i will update in a few weeks with what decision i do.
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BennyB (06-02-2020)
#80
so i took the car to a shop in my area thats closer to work, easier to drop off etc. i had originally scheduled him to install the 2 inch headers, hoping that somehow it makes 15 more knowing im pretty much wasting my time, but i figured he could also work on some drivability. he installed the headers and did one pull on the existing tune. didn't even break 500 on his dyno jet. so i should have had him do a compression/leak down first to save myself money but whatever. so he only checked bank 1 because he really didn't have to go to bank 2. cylinder 1 came in around 140ish which is low for 11.8ish-1 compression. cylinders 3 5 and 7 didn't make 3 digits, he wrote the numbers down but said they were around 80ish. so basically this motor needs to come back out. whats crazy is it makes no noise, makes no exhaust smoke, and i think the mighty mouse can vent would have some smoke coming out. honestly if it exhibited any signs of bottom end issues he probably wouldnt have done the header install.....is it common sometimes for it to be smoking? if it was 1 cylinder that is bad i would start asking questions about possible valve issue, maybe the seat isn't right but im pretty sure thats not the case.
what also has me puzzled is how this thing is still make 480ish hp with 3 basically useless cylinders? and we have no idea what the other bank was reading. this was a second hand motor so guess i shouldn't have done that. maybe the break in didn't go well for whatever reason or the seller knew something that i didn't. either way i guess i will update in a few weeks with what decision i do.
what also has me puzzled is how this thing is still make 480ish hp with 3 basically useless cylinders? and we have no idea what the other bank was reading. this was a second hand motor so guess i shouldn't have done that. maybe the break in didn't go well for whatever reason or the seller knew something that i didn't. either way i guess i will update in a few weeks with what decision i do.