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goona need you help, numbers are low (update Aug 1)

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Old 08-02-2019, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyTA
3 dead cylinders
480ish whp?

Not happening, as you mentioned.

A leak down test is in order.

How does it drive? Smooth? Does it pull hard? Any misfires? Anything obvious?
Stupid question, can it fail a compression test but pass a,leak down? I'm not sure how much driveability tuning the first tuner did, I don't think he did much, but it wants to surge until u get above 2000 rpm. my mpg when not beating on it was 20ish. it will bust tires loose if I smash it in first
Old 08-02-2019, 06:32 AM
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as mentioned, first tuner said he sees no signs of bottom end wear, and second tuner said same thing. forgot to mention, he took the oil pan off and he did say it had a slight sludgy film on it, I cleaned it before I reinstalled it on the new motor, but found no pieces of metal and no metallic oil
Old 08-02-2019, 08:33 PM
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ERL quality fell apart there at the end of their run. At this point I’d check everything, meaning cylinder out of round, bore taper (which is huge. Seen it a bunch of times) piston to wall, sleeve alignment, etc. Putting those sleeves in is an artwork, and if something is a little off, it’s no bueno. Of course maybe you’ve hurt some rings, or glazed the cylinders, which would be much easier to fix. One thing for sure...when your back together correctly, and your making proper cylinder pressure, and tune is right, this thing is going to make some steam.
Old 08-03-2019, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
ERL quality fell apart there at the end of their run. At this point I’d check everything, meaning cylinder out of round, bore taper (which is huge. Seen it a bunch of times) piston to wall, sleeve alignment, etc. Putting those sleeves in is an artwork, and if something is a little off, it’s no bueno. Of course maybe you’ve hurt some rings, or glazed the cylinders, which would be much easier to fix. One thing for sure...when your back together correctly, and your making proper cylinder pressure, and tune is right, this thing is going to make some steam.
this is something i thought of as far as the quality that may have or have not been there at the end of their run. is checking that the sleeves are installed correctly something that any shop can do?
Old 08-03-2019, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Floorman279
this is something i thought of as far as the quality that may have or have not been there at the end of their run. is checking that the sleeves are installed correctly something that any shop can do?
Id venture to say that TSP could tell you, since they are using state of the art CNC machines to sleeve theirs. Might be a few others in the country that sleeve, and could tell you dimensionally if your block is correct. Personally if I were you, I’d contact Steve at RED and ask him if he would look at it before you ship it. He’s been doing this for 40 years and no one in the business knows this stuff like he does.
Old 08-03-2019, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Id venture to say that TSP could tell you, since they are using state of the art CNC machines to sleeve theirs. Might be a few others in the country that sleeve, and could tell you dimensionally if your block is correct. Personally if I were you, I’d contact Steve at RED and ask him if he would look at it before you ship it. He’s been doing this for 40 years and no one in the business knows this stuff like he does.
i think im just goona get a new sleeved block from tsp. that way i can make sure that nothing is block related rather than paying someone to check mine out. this way i can also keep it a 4.125 bore and reuse the entire rotating assembly from my current setup. then just sells the erl block and let people know it needs checked. again not assuming its block related, but rather just move on.
Old 08-03-2019, 09:52 PM
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Honestly don’t blame you one bit. You’ll have a fresh hone, order you some rings and gap accordingly. Triple clean everything and re-assemble. Have you tore it down yet? I’d like to see the bearings and piston skirts.
Old 08-03-2019, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Honestly don’t blame you one bit. You’ll have a fresh hone, order you some rings and gap accordingly. Triple clean everything and re-assemble. Have you tore it down yet? I’d like to see the bearings and piston skirts.
im still trying to take a few more days and think about what im goona do. it just seems odd as hell that he got the compression numbers he got but the car still runs fine........was halfway tempted to ask him to redo the compression test without pushrods which would help rule out any overlap from the cam and or a pushrod length issue. but i also am willing to cut my loss and admit i may not ever know why there is an issue with this, assuming a tear down doesnt reveal anything to the naked eye. if i redo this im not building it. i did it once to say that i did it and it at least ran. next time ill pay someone to do it all and be responsible if it dont work out.
Old 08-05-2019, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Floorman279
i think im just goona get a new sleeved block from tsp. that way i can make sure that nothing is block related rather than paying someone to check mine out. this way i can also keep it a 4.125 bore and reuse the entire rotating assembly from my current setup. then just sells the erl block and let people know it needs checked. again not assuming its block related, but rather just move on.
While I don't disagree with this at all, and while it is going to be your best bet, I just can't help but mention my experience with TSP was far less than ideal.
I can't even describe what's actually "wrong" with the assembled shortblock they made for me. It shed metal on the initial build. Had to have it corrected at the machine shop. But it's all good now. I'm sure it was "one-off" freak accident for them (TSP).

Also, the reason I mentioned to do a leak down, was to verify that you actually had "issues" on those cylinders - vs taking your mechanics/tuners word for it. I guess I have trust issues. Not only that, but say your tuner was correct and the compression test wasn't fubar, a leakdown test will tell you *where* you're losing compression on said cylinders.

Best of luck!! Keep us updated.
Old 08-06-2019, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyTA
While I don't disagree with this at all, and while it is going to be your best bet, I just can't help but mention my experience with TSP was far less than ideal.
I can't even describe what's actually "wrong" with the assembled shortblock they made for me. It shed metal on the initial build. Had to have it corrected at the machine shop. But it's all good now. I'm sure it was "one-off" freak accident for them (TSP).

Also, the reason I mentioned to do a leak down, was to verify that you actually had "issues" on those cylinders - vs taking your mechanics/tuners word for it. I guess I have trust issues. Not only that, but say your tuner was correct and the compression test wasn't fubar, a leakdown test will tell you *where* you're losing compression on said cylinders.

Best of luck!! Keep us updated.
thanks for your 2 cents, i actually have been in contact with RED and honestly he's cheaper than TSP from what im seeing. the old plan was only to do this once, the new plan is, no seriously, we will only do this twice. so trying to get in touch with the right people. i got lucky and met someone through here who has a ton of contacts and good names in his cell phone, and we will see if he can help me out in anyway, but there is also a local guy who the tuner works with on many occasions that he prefers.

i was in the area so stopped by the shop to update him on my potential plans. he did do a leak down and the numbers were very low 80s on 1 or 2 and high 70s on the other 2. remember we only checked the one bank, no reason to check the other. he also informed me that the mighty mouse can was smoking, i thought i asked him and he said he didn't see anything but maybe i didn't. he also shared with me his personal experience with another one of ERL's "final builds". that one was actually worse than mine so looks like they tanked it at the end. i should have figured that but whatever. will keep updated.
Old 08-11-2019, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Floorman279
thanks for your 2 cents, i actually have been in contact with RED and honestly he's cheaper than TSP from what im seeing. the old plan was only to do this once, the new plan is, no seriously, we will only do this twice. so trying to get in touch with the right people. i got lucky and met someone through here who has a ton of contacts and good names in his cell phone, and we will see if he can help me out in anyway, but there is also a local guy who the tuner works with on many occasions that he prefers.

i was in the area so stopped by the shop to update him on my potential plans. he did do a leak down and the numbers were very low 80s on 1 or 2 and high 70s on the other 2. remember we only checked the one bank, no reason to check the other. he also informed me that the mighty mouse can was smoking, i thought i asked him and he said he didn't see anything but maybe i didn't. he also shared with me his personal experience with another one of ERL's "final builds". that one was actually worse than mine so looks like they tanked it at the end. i should have figured that but whatever. will keep updated.
Sorry to hear all that. I hope that everyone you work with is able to pull it together pretty quickly for you
Old 08-11-2019, 09:02 AM
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I'm goona guess it's goona take 6 to 8 weeks
Old 10-19-2019, 03:15 AM
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Didn't read the whole thread and I know I'm late to the game. Ignore me if you already worked this out....

.... but a MAP reading in the low 90s is waaaaay low. You've got a huge restriction on the intake side of the engine. My LS7 with mamo 265 heads and ported MSD intake was at 96-97 kPa with a 4 inch diameter air filter and tube. The engine wasn't getting the air it wanted. I changed to a 5 inch filter and tube and manifold pressure raised up to 99 kpa and the car got noticeably faster.

Regarding the intake manifold itself, the LS3 was blessed with a good manifold but the LS7 was not. You've got a built LS7 and it needs a better intake manifold if you want to get the big numbers that other people do.

5W30 oil is ideal for the Johnson lifters. The axle oiling feature will cause oil pressure to drop about 10 psi and that's normal. Those lifters allow more flow of oil which drops the pressure.

Last edited by QwkTrip; 10-19-2019 at 11:56 AM.
Old 10-27-2019, 06:33 PM
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motor was built loose or something and the pistons were rocking. will post up another thread
Old 10-27-2019, 08:00 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post20165491

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