TFS 220 Dyno LS1 SBE
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
TFS 220 Dyno LS1 SBE 
Got a dyno graph from my recent build:
T56 6 Speed with monster stage 3 clutch
TFS 220 Tooley Blend milled to 61cc Chambers
.040 cometic
LS6 Intake
TSP 1 7/8 Headers
SE/ True Duals
K&N FPIK
Stock MAF
232/236 .600"/.600" 114 +4
Johnson 2110
Hotwire kit and Fuel Pump
42lb Injectors
What y'all think of these numbers? Mustang Dyno tuned by PAT G. You think I should go a fast 92mm and SD tune??? He said his dyno reads very low so I have no idea how to compare results and I have not gone to the track yet as I'm still on my OG 10 bolt.....
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From: Mississippi
The LS6 intake is holding you back big time. And Brian Tooley loves Speed density.....
For future references~ its a stalled auto WS6 on board making 450rwhp (mustang dyno) with those heads and a smaller 228R camshaft but it does have a fast intake on it.
For future references~ its a stalled auto WS6 on board making 450rwhp (mustang dyno) with those heads and a smaller 228R camshaft but it does have a fast intake on it.
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From: Mississippi
Here you go. Hope this is helpful to you.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hs-posted.html
Tusky
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...hs-posted.html
Tusky
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From: Mississippi
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
So then it would seem that for what I have at the moment my numbers are good then? Like Tq and Hp curves look ok for LS6 intake? Guess I need to shell out the loot on the fast 92.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 184
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From: HTown, Texas
TFS 220 Tooley Blend milled to 61cc Chambers
232/236 .600"/.600" 114 +4
Johnson 2110
What y'all think of these numbers? Mustang Dyno tuned by PAT G. You think I should go a fast 92mm and SD tune??? He said his dyno reads very low so I have no idea how to compare results and I have not gone to the track yet as I'm still on my OG 10 bolt.....
232/236 .600"/.600" 114 +4
Johnson 2110
What y'all think of these numbers? Mustang Dyno tuned by PAT G. You think I should go a fast 92mm and SD tune??? He said his dyno reads very low so I have no idea how to compare results and I have not gone to the track yet as I'm still on my OG 10 bolt.....
Something bad is happening right there at about 5700rpm where the power drops and the line gets erratic. Might be valve float. Where did you get the cam? Who set up the valvesprings?
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From: Houston, Texas
Texas Speed ground the Cam, valve springs were installed at BTR. Does not seem to exhibit any issues....only thing I could think of is to use a longer pushrod? my preload was very close to the min for a 2110 lifter.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2019
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From: HTown, Texas
More preload might help. If it were me, I would look at the installed height of the springs and how far from coil bind they are installed at. The closer they are installed to coil bind, the more effective they are an controlling the valvetrain. I like to set them up at around .060' from coil bind and in most cases, it requires a little bit of shimming to get there. A .600" lift cam with .660" lift springs for example will obviously require at least .060" of shim.
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From: Dundee, MI
I'd definitely do the FAST. I put down 450 rwhp on a Mustang dyno with a similar setup, but I have the FAST 102 and am SD tuned. That was also at a rich AFR of 12.5 and 24 degrees of timing. I'm running 13.0 AFR with 26 degrees now. It's given me the best MPH at the track, but I haven't been back to the Dyno.
My TFS 220's from Tooley are 61cc as well, and I'm running the same lifters. I went with a 7.425 pushrod, which ended up being about .045 preload. A bit higher than Johnson recommends, but I have no issues and it's super quiet.
My TFS 220's from Tooley are 61cc as well, and I'm running the same lifters. I went with a 7.425 pushrod, which ended up being about .045 preload. A bit higher than Johnson recommends, but I have no issues and it's super quiet.
Don't know how I missed this thread. I don't think the dyno is reading low. You are making 420 lbs of torque at 4800 rpm. That's great torque on a 346. I do think something went wonky before you made peak power, and it does look like valve float. Right where they let up at 6400 -- that's right about where you should be making peak power.
Edit - on preload, I like to aim near half the travel.
Edit - on preload, I like to aim near half the travel.
I think the car will perform great at the drag strip if you decide to give it a shot on the 10 bolt. The trap speed with tell the tail of how much power you are actually putting down.
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I had a plugged steam line.... and car was running hot due to the thermostat also sticking, fixed cooling system and its like a different car, pulls strong. Contacted BTR spring pressure and shimming is more than appropriate for my cam lift and valve events. Also preload is money at .030". Could the engine running hot have contributed to the funky dyno graph up top?? Car runs very well now.... need the Fast intake 92mm or 102mm???????
Originally Posted by mintws6
I had a plugged steam line.... and car was running hot due to the thermostat also sticking, fixed cooling system and its like a different car, pulls strong. Contacted BTR spring pressure and shimming is more than appropriate for my cam lift and valve events. Also preload is money at .030". Could the engine running hot have contributed to the funky dyno graph up top?? Car runs very well now.... need the Fast intake 92mm or 102mm???????
Your intake is your big choke point now