FM14 Results
Last edited by 2xLS1; Nov 29, 2004 at 11:48 PM.
i still think that my single pattern cam made better power. i cant figure out how? its just a 228/228.
i was thinking about going with a FM13 or FM14 but, after comparing these numbers to my 411/400. i dont know. what could be so different?

I'll see if I can get the owner of the car to post about the driveability. I just did the install and tune, but he seemed real happy.
btw, my 447/411 SAE is 463/424 STD....
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Pull 1 - 370.60/357.58
Pull 6- 396.15/380.15
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Pull 1 - 370.60/357.58
Pull 6- 396.15/380.15
Pull 1 - 370.60/357.58
Pull 6- 396.15/380.15
I'm a "tuner" too and I'm concerned about people reading numbers that generally read higher than SAE (which is pretty much the standard) and being upset when their cars don't dyno "up to par" with others. I have always used and thought that the SAE method was the accepted correction factor for dyno numbers. If you go thru all the different correction factors, generally (unless it is a good HP weather day) the STD numbers will be the highest.
As far as driveability? Its stock. The only time you can tell is if you let off the gas at like 1600 rpm or less the car will surge a little bit. Other than that as long as your pressing the gas atleast a LITTLE tiny bit you can put it in 6th gear at 35mph and it will pull right through with no problems.
When I get it dyno'd here I'll let you guys know. I honestly think the SAE corrections on that dyno were a little off. We were having computer problems also. We switched from winpep 7 to 6 half way through the pulls and the cutout was so loud it was making the wideband distort.
This was with all belts on and air filter in place. Not really any dyno tricks other than the cutout being open. If you call that one

Thanks
Travis.
EDIT : Its also a Jantzer TB not a shaner
Last edited by SDC; Nov 30, 2004 at 06:47 PM.






