2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Installed and tuned a FM14 / 112 over the weekend. The car is a 00 TA M6. Mods are SLP lid, Shaner T/B, LS6 intake, Pacesetter headers, TSP ORY, Cutout in I-pipe, ASP Pulley. Stock 10 Bolt, 3.42s. 28* Timing, 13.0 A/F. Here is before and after the tune, cutout open.

gomer

iTrader: (13)

can you show the before and after tune A/F ratios? Great numbers btw

LSUxBlake

iTrader: (3)

Nice numbers . How does it drive? I'm swapping my F11 out for the Ron Jeremy in about 2 weeks.

1 fast camaro

those are pretty good numbers.

i still think that my single pattern cam made better power. i cant figure out how? its just a 228/228.

i was thinking about going with a FM13 or FM14 but, after comparing these numbers to my 411/400. i dont know. what could be so different?

Futral

iTrader: (1)

looks good,might have a little left in her..can you post A\F graph?

Do you have any before dyno #'s??

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Here is the A/F on pull 1 and pull 5. The wide band stopped reading at 5500 on pull 6 for some reason. The only thing I did different tune wise between pull 5 and 6 was richen it up 1 more % at 5600 and 6000 rpm.

I'll see if I can get the owner of the car to post about the driveability. I just did the install and tune, but he seemed real happy.

gomer

iTrader: (13)

Not being picky or nothing, but I noticed you were posting the STD numbers, what were the SAE numbers? That's what is posted most of the time.

btw, my 447/411 SAE is 463/424 STD....

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

As tuner, I am more concerned about the improvement (delta change) rather than the actual number. I've always heard that the STD #s are more repeatable. Here are the SAEs

Pull 1 - 370.60/357.58
Pull 6- 396.15/380.15

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

I know the guy that tunes all our cars uses STD for the same reason. Says they show more repeatable results. Seems to work for him at least.

gomer

iTrader: (13)

I'm a "tuner" too and I'm concerned about people reading numbers that generally read higher than SAE (which is pretty much the standard) and being upset when their cars don't dyno "up to par" with others. I have always used and thought that the SAE method was the accepted correction factor for dyno numbers. If you go thru all the different correction factors, generally (unless it is a good HP weather day) the STD numbers will be the highest.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

I wasn't trying to hide or inflate anything. I'm in OKC and the owner of the car is from Tulsa. I used a dyno here in OKC. He really thinks it will dyno 10-15 higher at the dyno he uses in Tulsa. I think he said his car did 333 with just a lid on the Tulsa dyno. That's why I don't worry that much about the actual numbers, but before and after on the same dyno. From the other cars I've seen on this particular dyno, this is a strong cam/stock heads car. I'm really impressed with the FM14 and would recomend to others.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

I'm with Allan. It seems like it has some more in it, or the dyno is just reading a little low. Either way thats a strong cam!! Its gonna find its way into my motor this spring

pdd

iTrader: (3)

its finding its way into my motor also

Worm

iTrader: (2)

My car, it dyno'd one run @ 40Xrwhp SAE, and 409rwhp STD was the final pull before I left the dyno. Glen and Brian(i think? hehe) did a great job. Would definately recommend them. I'd like to dyno the car on the dyno which I've tested all my mods up to this point on, which is here in tulsa. I honestly think it will hit atleast 410 SAE. What surprised me was that on the 40Xrwhp SAE run the torque was like 390 or just shy. On stock heads that alot to me, I dont even have true duals or anything.

As far as driveability? Its stock. The only time you can tell is if you let off the gas at like 1600 rpm or less the car will surge a little bit. Other than that as long as your pressing the gas atleast a LITTLE tiny bit you can put it in 6th gear at 35mph and it will pull right through with no problems.

When I get it dyno'd here I'll let you guys know. I honestly think the SAE corrections on that dyno were a little off. We were having computer problems also. We switched from winpep 7 to 6 half way through the pulls and the cutout was so loud it was making the wideband distort.

This was with all belts on and air filter in place. Not really any dyno tricks other than the cutout being open. If you call that one

Thanks
Travis.

EDIT : Its also a Jantzer TB not a shaner