Has Anyone Gained Power Simply by Degreeing their Cam?
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As the title asks, I'm just curious if anyone has gained power simply by degreeing their cam. If so, how much did you pick up?
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks,
Josh
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The intake valve closing event is the most important part of cam timing. By advancing cam 4 degrees from strait up position shifts power band to a lower RPM (intake valve closes sooner). Retarding cam 4 degrees from strait up shifts power band to upper RPM (intake valve closes later). Very little power difference will be felt either retarding or advancing cam.
It is best to use the correct camshaft to begin with.
It is best to use the correct camshaft to begin with.
Last edited by gollum; 10-06-2005 at 03:57 PM.
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Originally Posted by gollum
The intake valve closing event is the most important part of cam timing. By advancing cam 4 degrees from strait up position shifts power band to a lower RPM (intake valve closes sooner). Retarding cam 4 degrees from strait up shifts power band to upper RPM (intake valve closes later). Very little power difference will be felt either retarding or advancing cam.
It is best to use the correct camshaft to begin with.
It is best to use the correct camshaft to begin with.
There was a guy on here who had a TSP 231/237 with TEA 1.5 Heads, QTP HVM 1-3/4" Longtubes and a FAST LSX90. I think he did around 460rwhp, which is excellent. But, when he sold it, the guy degreed the cam and tuned it and got it up over 480rwhp. Very impressive to say the least. Most off the shelf cams that claim to be max effort, still have advance ground in to keep them streetable, or to keep the RPMs within reason on a stock shortblock. Simply ordering the cam without that will help, but degreeing to ensure that the valve events are spot on is not a bad idea.
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When we built our motor we degreed the cam in. We stuck it in and checked it and it was a degree retarded. When we loosened the cam bolts and moved the cam just a hair and tightened the cam bolts, it was dead on the money. Was it worth anything, probably nothing you could feel but I know i'm getting the most out of it.
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
If the ABDC is moved from 45 to 49 degrees, you will notice a difference between a peak of 6300rpm and 6800rpm with a cam like the F13. Probably 20-25rwhp. Can you actually "feel" this? Probably not, because your torque value remains relatively unchanged. Just the twisting force now comes on at a higher RPM, thus making you faster with all else being equal. Staying in your gear longer helps make you faster, so I'm sure you'll notice that?
There was a guy on here who had a TSP 231/237 with TEA 1.5 Heads, QTP HVM 1-3/4" Longtubes and a FAST LSX90. I think he did around 460rwhp, which is excellent. But, when he sold it, the guy degreed the cam and tuned it and got it up over 480rwhp. Very impressive to say the least. Most off the shelf cams that claim to be max effort, still have advance ground in to keep them streetable, or to keep the RPMs within reason on a stock shortblock. Simply ordering the cam without that will help, but degreeing to ensure that the valve events are spot on is not a bad idea.
There was a guy on here who had a TSP 231/237 with TEA 1.5 Heads, QTP HVM 1-3/4" Longtubes and a FAST LSX90. I think he did around 460rwhp, which is excellent. But, when he sold it, the guy degreed the cam and tuned it and got it up over 480rwhp. Very impressive to say the least. Most off the shelf cams that claim to be max effort, still have advance ground in to keep them streetable, or to keep the RPMs within reason on a stock shortblock. Simply ordering the cam without that will help, but degreeing to ensure that the valve events are spot on is not a bad idea.
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Originally Posted by m1key99WS6
When we built our motor we degreed the cam in. We stuck it in and checked it and it was a degree retarded. When we loosened the cam bolts and moved the cam just a hair and tightened the cam bolts, it was dead on the money. Was it worth anything, probably nothing you could feel but I know i'm getting the most out of it.
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion
There was a guy on here who had a TSP 231/237 with TEA 1.5 Heads, QTP HVM 1-3/4" Longtubes and a FAST LSX90. I think he did around 460rwhp, which is excellent. But, when he sold it, the guy degreed the cam and tuned it and got it up over 480rwhp
SouthFL.02.SS - Did the Peak HP RPM change much when he had the cam degreed?
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Originally Posted by Black02SS
I was under the understanding that he swaped from SLP LTs to QTP HVM, LSX intake to the Fast 90/90, and degreed it in at the same time. I honestly can't see a 20hp gain from degreeing the cam in unless it was that far off it pulled the power band down causing it to peak really early.
SouthFL.02.SS - Did the Peak HP RPM change much when he had the cam degreed?
SouthFL.02.SS - Did the Peak HP RPM change much when he had the cam degreed?
(By the way, he knows his stuff- he's pretty well versed in ls1- I'm sure the tune had more to do with it than anything, but yes, degreeing helped).
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degreeing the cam is a good idea because sometimes cams are mis-ground or with the addition of aftermarket timing chains and gears you can be a little off from what it is supposed to be.i know of a couple off people that went through this.one guy was down on power and it peaked to early in the powerband.after degreeing the cam,he found it was 4* advanced more than what was advertised.degreeing a cam simply means your making sure the valve events are where their supposed to be.
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Originally Posted by 66deuce
degreeing the cam is a good idea because sometimes cams are mis-ground or with the addition of aftermarket timing chains and gears you can be a little off from what it is supposed to be.i know of a couple off people that went through this.one guy was down on power and it peaked to early in the powerband.after degreeing the cam,he found it was 4* advanced more than what was advertised.degreeing a cam simply means your making sure the valve events are where their supposed to be.