Another disappointed result, TR 224
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Was it the same dyno for instance?
If not, was it the same type of dyno?
Where either set of dyno numbers being corrected?
If YES then to what standard?
If NO then what where the local atmospheric conditions and tempertures like for each dyno run?
What altitude was the car dyno'd at?
With answer to these and other questions you would then have enough knowledge to say with any confidence whether a possible problem exists or not.
Remember a dyno is primarily a tool for tuning, NOT a measure for BHP.
There are so many factors that can affect the results. In addition to the above questions, you need to ask:
Was the dyno configured correctly?
What gear did they dyno the car in?
Have there been any drivetrain mods (gears/12 bolt/stall) between the orignal dyno run and the latest?
What tyres and pressures where you running on both occasions?
Remember there are a great deal of components between the engine and the rear wheels. If the TQ is slipping you will get greatly distorted results. Yet the engine may well be producing EXACTLY the amount of BHP expected.
For piece of mind the cheepest option would be to take it to another dyno and see what it makes on that. If the results are within 5% of the last one then you can assume the dyno is being fairly accurate. Which means you most likely have an issue with the engine and/or the drivetrain.
To further check, run it down the 1/4 mile and see what it's trapping. If you know the vehicle weight and trap speed you should be able to make a guesstimate of how much BHP was required to move 'x' weight to 'y' speed over a 1/4 mile distance.
I have worked on three in the last two months with the same combo and all pulled 360ish (sae) before tune. These all did have a LS6 intake though. The tuning got two in the 370+ range and the other right at 380. I would be interested in knowing your spark advance at the highest g/cyl fill vs. the entire rpm range at WOT. Also, was there any KR logged?
Last edited by SideStep; Nov 10, 2005 at 07:50 AM.




