Do these #'s look OK?
Do these #'s look OK? Made a few pulls on the dyno today and I'm kinda dissapointed. What do yall think? In case the pics don't show up, it made 328HP@6200 & 302ftlbs@5100 Here's what I got- '98 LS1(112K miles),cheatr cam,S&P midlengths,true duals 2 1/2", X-pipe, dynomax ultraflows,no cats,no egr,TCI 3000, 3.42w/posi,20" Rozzi deeps W/Toyo 275/40's,160 deg stat, wait4me performance tune [IMG]
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[/IMG] Last edited by motoxlifer; Dec 27, 2005 at 08:16 PM.
OK here are my pics, the reason it starts off so late is because I couldn't stab it real early in 2nd without it kicking down into 1st. This is the first time I've done this and the guy running the dyno kinda had me confused, and that's not real hard to do.http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/36019075314.jpg&s=x12 http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=12/36019063737.jpg&s=x12
Last edited by motoxlifer; Dec 27, 2005 at 09:42 PM.
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
That's pretty low, even for a stalled auto. 
Last edited by motoxlifer; Dec 28, 2005 at 04:24 PM.
Originally Posted by motoxlifer
Where do you think I should be and what needs to be done to get it there? I can't help but wonder about my tune(if I even got one). I sent my ecm and harness to Wait4me Performance. He did both for ultra cheap. It runs funny at startup and dies sometimes. The Cheatr cam isn't supposed to require much of a tune if any, so I kinda wonder if he even bothered, cuz he was so busy at the time.
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From: its fucking cold
Originally Posted by Redneck Z
That's pretty low, even for a stalled auto.
Your combo is not going to win any dyno queen contests, but it will will a few 1/4 mile races.
Thanks for input guys. I'm gonna check into gettin it retuned, it's just that no one locally has the software to tune my '98 ecm. Next time I dyno I'll put some different wheels on the rear, with that and a good tune maybe I can hit the #'s I originally wanted to see, about 350rwhp.
Originally Posted by BlueSix
Are you retarded? Hmm, he's got a stalled A4 on heavy 20" rims, and the dyno we are looking at is unlocked. There is NOTHING wrong with his numbers.
Your combo is not going to win any dyno queen contests, but it will will a few 1/4 mile races.
Your combo is not going to win any dyno queen contests, but it will will a few 1/4 mile races.
Whatever smart guy! It takes a genius to insult someone...Next time do me a favor and keep your retarded comments to yourself. You aren't adding anything to the thread by calling me retarded. You could have just said you didn't agree with me. From what I've seen, the numbers are low. Maybe I think you're retarded after reading your post, but I refuse to act like I'm in the 6th grade.......
Oh yeah, his #'s are still low even for a stalled A4 on 20's. A tune will definately help out, and should get him closer to where he should be.
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From: its fucking cold
If you looked at his combo a little closer you would understand why his numbers are fine. He's running mid length headers and a cam with very little intake duration. He's not going to put a whole lot of power down on the dyno with his setup....but his dyno numbers don't amtter. What matters is how it performs at the track.
Originally Posted by BlueSix
If you looked at his combo a little closer you would understand why his numbers are fine. He's running mid length headers and a cam with very little intake duration. He's not going to put a whole lot of power down on the dyno with his setup....but his dyno numbers don't amtter. What matters is how it performs at the track.
Edit- also, with the midlengths, thats giving up a few ponies as well. I realize what the cheatr cam is designed for/around but a little bit of longtubes never hurt nobody
Originally Posted by lilbuddy1587
He isnt sporting a ls6 intake either, so I agree with redneck, his numbers are KIND OF low. Of course you have to take into account the weight of the rims and being an a4. Still, that does not account for the little power being put down.
Edit- also, with the midlengths, thats giving up a few ponies as well. I realize what the cheatr cam is designed for/around but a little bit of longtubes never hurt nobody
Edit- also, with the midlengths, thats giving up a few ponies as well. I realize what the cheatr cam is designed for/around but a little bit of longtubes never hurt nobody
Oh ya do yall have any suggestions on how I can make a pull in 2nd without it kicking down into 1st, has this ever been a problem for anyone else?
Last edited by motoxlifer; Dec 29, 2005 at 10:17 PM.
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From: its fucking cold
Why would you want to make a pull in second? Ideally you want to dyno an a4 in 3rd, your tuner should be able to lock the car in 3rd. You should find another 10 rwhp with a better tune. I would guess that with optimal mods (LS6 or fast 90 intake, ported T/b, pulley...) you could get up to the 345-350 rwhp range.
OK, I just posted in another thread that the shop recomended that I make my pulls in 3rd. My 1st pull was like 306rwhp, the 2nd was 311rwhp I think. I was lookin for a gun after those two pulls. I was under the impression that you should make your pulls in 2nd, so we tried it and this made a big improvement. Is this giving me a false reading somehow. Also the guy didn't mention anything about locking me in gear, is this what you are referring to as locked or unlocked, I thought that meant locking the converter up.
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From: its fucking cold
All pulls should be made in a 1:1 ratio gear, on an a4 that's 3rd. You will get your highest numbers from making a pull in this gear. Your tuner should be able to lock the car in 3rd gear so it does not downshift when you go WOT at 2500 rpm. That is not what i was refering to though as locked or unlocked, i was refering to the converter.
If your tuner is unable to lock the car in 3rd gear...and did not know that was the gear that the vehicle should be dyno'd in, i would look for a new shop.
If your tuner is unable to lock the car in 3rd gear...and did not know that was the gear that the vehicle should be dyno'd in, i would look for a new shop.