224/228 and AFR205 heads
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
I am still really happy with my set up- I have the 224/228 cam. Great power throughout, and stock like manners, good gas mileage, etc. Perfect for what I want. I can always go to the 90/90 combo and a few other little things to chase a magic number, but I don't really see a need to yet.
Tony was really helpful. I didn't want to compromise around town driving, low end grunt, etc. He did all the R&D, I just followed most of his recipe.
See sig for full set up.
Tony was really helpful. I didn't want to compromise around town driving, low end grunt, etc. He did all the R&D, I just followed most of his recipe.
See sig for full set up.
Haven't had ANYONE take me off the line or from a low 1st gear roll yet ... from Cobra's to 06 Z06's to vipers to Lamborghini Gallardo to you-name-it. Some seem to really do well against my car in the higher RPM range, though. I attribute the monster 'down-low power' and 'high rpm lower power' to my ported MAC mid's and LS6 intake with stock ported throttle body.
FAST 90/90 is going on today, so, if I lose a little down low, it's got plenty with the 224.228 cam and AFR 205 combo. Hopefully, the 90/90 setup will push the power where I need it most ... up top. If I still need more up top, then, I guess I'll go ahead and do Long tube headers. I'll post the final dyno results of the 90/90 setup as opposed to the current dynograph that was done last month.
Keep in mind my last dyno numbers were unlocked and the tuner couldn't get the Yank SS3600 converter to completely lock when he tried. It was making 425 RWHP locked, but, not completely locked, so, probably would have been good for another 10 RWHP. The numbers were also off the Dynojet at Next Level Performance in Altamonte and that dyno is known as "the Humbler" because of the low numbers it produces. My tune is very conservative, as well.
I love this street combo ... sleeper and wakes up nicely at WOT and surprises a lot of Big Cam guys.
FAST 90/90 is going on today, so, if I lose a little down low, it's got plenty with the 224.228 cam and AFR 205 combo. Hopefully, the 90/90 setup will push the power where I need it most ... up top. If I still need more up top, then, I guess I'll go ahead and do Long tube headers. I'll post the final dyno results of the 90/90 setup as opposed to the current dynograph that was done last month.
Keep in mind my last dyno numbers were unlocked and the tuner couldn't get the Yank SS3600 converter to completely lock when he tried. It was making 425 RWHP locked, but, not completely locked, so, probably would have been good for another 10 RWHP. The numbers were also off the Dynojet at Next Level Performance in Altamonte and that dyno is known as "the Humbler" because of the low numbers it produces. My tune is very conservative, as well.
I love this street combo ... sleeper and wakes up nicely at WOT and surprises a lot of Big Cam guys.
Last edited by JEB99TA; Apr 10, 2007 at 05:52 AM.
I had this cam in my 02Z06 with just headers no other bolt ons and it put down 405-410rwhp/385rwtq depending on the run. It went 11.36@123.50 at the track. Then I added 10lbs of boost to it and it made 635rwhp and 550rwtq. Great cam in my opinion just a little small for me now. I am returning back to N/A with the 205's so I think I am going to go with a 228/232 on a 114 cam this time. You can bearly hear the 224/228 cam. It drove like stock.
Brett
Brett
Last week I ended up finding a good deal on the 205's. I sent them off to AFR to get them milled to 62cc. Tony helped me decide on a cam. I ended up getting a custom grind 230/232 114LSA Comp Xer lobes.
I have the itch now, and I'm just waiting for all the parts to come in so I can start the install. I'll be sure to post my track times and dyno results before new years.
I have the itch now, and I'm just waiting for all the parts to come in so I can start the install. I'll be sure to post my track times and dyno results before new years.
TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Rolesville, NC
Ok I will play devils advocate. Screw the street ability and emission. What are some possibilities of cam choices?
Needs: road racing, 20 to 50 min races, twice a weekend, plus 4 twenty min practice or qualifications
Lets say:
2003 LS6 <-- Have this
AFR 205s 62mm <-- Need to get these
LG Pro LTs 1 3/4"( no cats and straight pipes) <-- have this - to be installed
Fast90/NW90 ( ported and polished ) <-- Need to get these
Real CAI ( direct out side air) <-- have this - Installed
3 qt accusump with oil cooler <-- have this - Installed
Quartermaster 5.5” 3-disc Clutch <-- have this - to be installed
LG Carbon Fiber drive shaft <-- have this - to be installed
Underdrive pulley, Milling oil pump <-- have this - to be installed
other goodies as needed.
Currently run M1 15-w50 oil
MN6 with 3.42
Draw back? - Stock Bottom end
Other draw backs? this I dont even know but open to ideas
Still working on different trans gear ratio & 3.73 - in the future
Cheers
Tom
Needs: road racing, 20 to 50 min races, twice a weekend, plus 4 twenty min practice or qualifications
Lets say:
2003 LS6 <-- Have this
AFR 205s 62mm <-- Need to get these
LG Pro LTs 1 3/4"( no cats and straight pipes) <-- have this - to be installed
Fast90/NW90 ( ported and polished ) <-- Need to get these
Real CAI ( direct out side air) <-- have this - Installed
3 qt accusump with oil cooler <-- have this - Installed
Quartermaster 5.5” 3-disc Clutch <-- have this - to be installed
LG Carbon Fiber drive shaft <-- have this - to be installed
Underdrive pulley, Milling oil pump <-- have this - to be installed
other goodies as needed.
Currently run M1 15-w50 oil
MN6 with 3.42
Draw back? - Stock Bottom end
Other draw backs? this I dont even know but open to ideas
Still working on different trans gear ratio & 3.73 - in the future
Cheers
Tom
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Tom,
Firstly, the stock crank is not bad, I'd definitely replace the rod bolts with the Katek ones. I ran a 230-236 112 +2 XE-R lobe in my 346 with 63cc heads and loved it. I made 460 RWHP with a ported 90/90 setup. Had excellent mid pull and took off at 4k. Medium size cam is certainly easier on parts than something bigger. I've spend a lot of time on tracks on two wheels. The power my car made would have been great on the track.
My $.02
Kevin
Firstly, the stock crank is not bad, I'd definitely replace the rod bolts with the Katek ones. I ran a 230-236 112 +2 XE-R lobe in my 346 with 63cc heads and loved it. I made 460 RWHP with a ported 90/90 setup. Had excellent mid pull and took off at 4k. Medium size cam is certainly easier on parts than something bigger. I've spend a lot of time on tracks on two wheels. The power my car made would have been great on the track.
My $.02
Kevin
TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Rolesville, NC
Tom,
Firstly, the stock crank is not bad, I'd definitely replace the rod bolts with the Katek ones. I ran a 230-236 112 +2 XE-R lobe in my 346 with 63cc heads and loved it. I made 460 RWHP with a ported 90/90 setup. Had excellent mid pull and took off at 4k. Medium size cam is certainly easier on parts than something bigger. I've spend a lot of time on tracks on two wheels. The power my car made would have been great on the track.
My $.02
Kevin
Firstly, the stock crank is not bad, I'd definitely replace the rod bolts with the Katek ones. I ran a 230-236 112 +2 XE-R lobe in my 346 with 63cc heads and loved it. I made 460 RWHP with a ported 90/90 setup. Had excellent mid pull and took off at 4k. Medium size cam is certainly easier on parts than something bigger. I've spend a lot of time on tracks on two wheels. The power my car made would have been great on the track.
My $.02
Kevin
Tony and I talked at lengths a while ago. He did suggest I use his cam, which is most likely that is the route I will go, but still looking at other cam options
I have a 224/224 581/581 112 XER in there now. Was as looking at the LGX4 or X5 However, getting up and out of corners, 2500 rpms to red line is more important then HP 6000 to 7000 rpms, However, If I can have both ...
Thanks Kevin
Tony and I talked at lengths a while ago. He did suggest I use his cam, which is most likely that is the route I will go, but still looking at other cam options
I have a 224/224 581/581 112 XER in there now. Was as looking at the LGX4 or X5 However, getting up and out of corners, 2500 rpms to red line is more important then HP 6000 to 7000 rpms, However, If I can have both ...
Tony and I talked at lengths a while ago. He did suggest I use his cam, which is most likely that is the route I will go, but still looking at other cam options
I have a 224/224 581/581 112 XER in there now. Was as looking at the LGX4 or X5 However, getting up and out of corners, 2500 rpms to red line is more important then HP 6000 to 7000 rpms, However, If I can have both ...
I think you're on the right track and looking at it the right way. I won a lot of races because my bikes would carburate cleanly at lower RPM than the competition and I could avoid having to shift in the middle of a corner. I'd stay away from cams with huge overlap > 13 or so which is right where the G5X3 sits. Even that may be more than you want on tight courses. It's sort of the same thing when people hit road courses with 4.10's only to find out they are needing to shift way too much and 3.73's may be a better choice for road courses.
Again, just my $.02
Kevin
Last edited by WKMCD; Mar 18, 2008 at 07:12 AM.
I would add a set of roller rockers (Yella Terra's) and make sure you have stout pushrods. Timing set with a Torrington bearing is another item I would add to the list. The final item up for review would be a DeWitts radiator.
TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Rolesville, NC
Ok Cool
I have two different 4 core Ron Davis radiators. ( forgot to mention that) - Car is a front breather do to the spitter not the typical bottom breather corvette. Looking at laying the radiator down so air flows though better and out an extractor hood.
added items:
Katech Rod Bolts
Yella Terra( yes Tony and I talked about those too)
and we talked about strong push rods as well
Timing set with Torrington bearing ( I have several differnt timing chains in the shop)
Thanks guys
ps do have an external oil cooler and trans cooler up front.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville AR
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Carson, Colorado Springs
ive always wondered why people always use such small cams with the afr heads i know some of the 224/228 cams are matched well but id have to think theres some being left on the table, yet you guys always put up good times regardless of the numbers. It just seems like for the price of the heads you would get more out of it.. Im not going against the heads at all, i know theyre known as one of the best heads out there but i have a hard time spending almost 2500 for heads to get 430 when i could get that almost with just a cam. Im saying this because i want to buy afr heads lol
TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Rolesville, NC
Step on the gas ( one, two, ) oh now it takes off once your above 3500 rpms. By this time the smaller cammed car with immediate throttle response is 50 feet up the road and accelerating away.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville AR
if ur running a cam with a power curve of say 3500-7300rpm and match it correctly with gears and a torque converter i dont see the issue. HOWEVER for a car that see's streets the majority of the time i wouldnt want anything with a curve that starts over 2400 rpm. if you know your car and know how to drive it i think you'd be fine either way. too bad most of the guys i run across are too afraid to run what they got cause of the money thats wrapped up in their toy
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville AR
Tom,
Firstly, the stock crank is not bad, I'd definitely replace the rod bolts with the Katek ones. I ran a 230-236 112 +2 XE-R lobe in my 346 with 63cc heads and loved it. I made 460 RWHP with a ported 90/90 setup. Had excellent mid pull and took off at 4k. Medium size cam is certainly easier on parts than something bigger. I've spend a lot of time on tracks on two wheels. The power my car made would have been great on the track.
My $.02
Kevin
Firstly, the stock crank is not bad, I'd definitely replace the rod bolts with the Katek ones. I ran a 230-236 112 +2 XE-R lobe in my 346 with 63cc heads and loved it. I made 460 RWHP with a ported 90/90 setup. Had excellent mid pull and took off at 4k. Medium size cam is certainly easier on parts than something bigger. I've spend a lot of time on tracks on two wheels. The power my car made would have been great on the track.
My $.02
Kevin
what else did the car have done to it, normal bolt ons? those are the power numbers i'm after from mine and i'm fixin to do a cam swap this summer
Stock WP, Dynatech LT's with cats, GHL cat back, UD pulley, Comp 921's, HS modded rockers, etc, and a killer tune for the street. Stock bottom end with the rev limiter set at 6400. This was no dyno queen but I car I drove on trips, Washington DC rush hour and anywhere I wanted to go. It could have easily been a daily driver.