New Crappy Numbers...
#1
New Crappy Numbers...
So I got my car back today from the dyno and I have to say I'm extremely disappointed. The final SAE numbers were 400.2 and 367.4. The car is pretty much tuned as perfect as it can be (A/F, timing, all right where they are supposed to be), it just doesn't make the power.
The big positive is that I had them baseline it and before the tune it was making 386/344, so I had a big improvement from the tune (we knew something was up with the tune in the first place, that's why I brought it in, and we were right).
The guys at the dyno said that these heads that the previous owner bought must just flow like crap, because there is no reason the car shouldn't be making this power on this cam alone (previous cars at the shop with this exact cam and stock heads made this same power). I'm pretty much ready to tell people it's just a cam-only car...
In case you didn't see my previous post with the full mod list, it is here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/777773-dyno-friday-care-take-guess-results-will-posted-friday-afternoon.html.
Everything seems to be running right with the car, it just doesn't make the power I was hoping for (especially that very low torque). I have a feeling sometime in the future I will be swapping the heads and cam for a bigger and better heads/cam package. I think with this power I can still get my 11.9, though. I just need to drive the hell out of it.
The big positive is that I had them baseline it and before the tune it was making 386/344, so I had a big improvement from the tune (we knew something was up with the tune in the first place, that's why I brought it in, and we were right).
The guys at the dyno said that these heads that the previous owner bought must just flow like crap, because there is no reason the car shouldn't be making this power on this cam alone (previous cars at the shop with this exact cam and stock heads made this same power). I'm pretty much ready to tell people it's just a cam-only car...
In case you didn't see my previous post with the full mod list, it is here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/777773-dyno-friday-care-take-guess-results-will-posted-friday-afternoon.html.
Everything seems to be running right with the car, it just doesn't make the power I was hoping for (especially that very low torque). I have a feeling sometime in the future I will be swapping the heads and cam for a bigger and better heads/cam package. I think with this power I can still get my 11.9, though. I just need to drive the hell out of it.
#3
Of course I'll keep you guys posted. If the shifting issue is fixed on Monday, I will be scheduling a day for the track within the next couple weeks.
Before the tune and Y-pipe (positives) but after the 12-bolt and driveshaft (negatives), which I'm assuming means in its worst power form, I got a 12.4 at 112.9 with a 1.79 60' out of it, but this was with the MAJOR shifting problem that will hopefully be fixed on Monday when they put in the new master cylinder and drill mod; I'm sure it was costing me a few tenths and a few mph because it is a big problem.
So, with the power improvement from the tune / y-pipe and the shifting problem fixed (hopefully), I am still optimistic that I can get my 11.9. Like I said, I'll just need to drive the hell out of it!
BTW, I will post the before/after-tune graphs if I can get someone to scan it for me, but like I said, the A/F and timing looked really good.
Before the tune and Y-pipe (positives) but after the 12-bolt and driveshaft (negatives), which I'm assuming means in its worst power form, I got a 12.4 at 112.9 with a 1.79 60' out of it, but this was with the MAJOR shifting problem that will hopefully be fixed on Monday when they put in the new master cylinder and drill mod; I'm sure it was costing me a few tenths and a few mph because it is a big problem.
So, with the power improvement from the tune / y-pipe and the shifting problem fixed (hopefully), I am still optimistic that I can get my 11.9. Like I said, I'll just need to drive the hell out of it!
BTW, I will post the before/after-tune graphs if I can get someone to scan it for me, but like I said, the A/F and timing looked really good.
#5
Originally Posted by allngn_c5
Well get some better heads when the funds permit. You'll be happier in the long run. At least your tune is correct now.
#7
I did not own the car when it was stock, but I know it made good power because with a lid and a catback it trapped 108 at LVD (not the best of tracks, obviously). I (and the shop) are under the impression that these heads just do not flow well and do not do much for the car. Like I said, it's basically making the power it should be on this cam only without those heads (and it did so on other cars at this shop/dyno). It might be making just slightly better than this cam-only power because these numbers are through the 12-bolt/driveshaft, but that low torque really shocks me. This setup just isn't doing it.
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#9
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Personally i think dyno numbers are crap just from me dynoing my car at different shops the past few months. I can't tell which shops dyno is right and they are dynojets with as much 25rwhp difference in similar conditions.
#12
The two dynos in my area are very close. My brother got his car dyno tuned at the one I just had mine done at, then brought it to the other one not too long after and dynoed 2 rwhp different. I also have dynoed at both of these and the numbers seem to match up pretty well. Both dynojets.
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first dyno ever lid only. 296/303tq
Second dyno lid/cutout 328/337
Third dyno, ported TB, lt and ORY, ls6 intake and tune 341/345
Fourth dyno 2 months later 320/320.
You see?
Second dyno lid/cutout 328/337
Third dyno, ported TB, lt and ORY, ls6 intake and tune 341/345
Fourth dyno 2 months later 320/320.
You see?
#14
Oh, I know what you mean. All I am saying is that my brother and I can compare dyno numbers from a couple different dynos for both cars, and when we race, from a stop or a roll, the results seem to match up with the numbers every time.
I am well aware that dyno numbers from different shops and different types of dynos can vary a lot. I will be posting track results (which always seem to match up fairly well with our dyno numbers) within the next few weeks assuming my clutch problem gets fixed on Monday.
I am well aware that dyno numbers from different shops and different types of dynos can vary a lot. I will be posting track results (which always seem to match up fairly well with our dyno numbers) within the next few weeks assuming my clutch problem gets fixed on Monday.
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your dyno numbers arent that bad....... i have dynoed a few cars with patriot heads, they seem to make power on par to other budget minded heads out there, they outflow the LS6 manifold by far, so i dont see a lot of power picked up from swaping heads. one thing i noticed is you have the pacesetter y -pipe, get rid of that thing its horrible in design, there is no proper merge at all, its just one pipe running directly into the other perpendicular to each other. and maybe consider upgrading to a fast 90/ with 90 TB, i think with those mods you could definitely see numbers in the 430+ range.
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Agreed, weres the timing set at and the A/F? Around 28* and 13-13.5:1 A/F would be were I would put it depending....
The last set of 243s I did were 300cfm stock valvers and with the next size of cam youve got(228/230) it went 421/385 through the stock 10 bolt so your not too far off.
The last set of 243s I did were 300cfm stock valvers and with the next size of cam youve got(228/230) it went 421/385 through the stock 10 bolt so your not too far off.
Last edited by Bo White; 09-08-2007 at 06:02 PM.
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PewterScreaminMach, you want to talk about unimpressive dyno numbers, look at my DynoJet results. Unless it is specifically for tuning, I doubt I will ever put one of my vehicles on a dyno again. I do not even want to know. If I want to know if mods gained me anything, I will go to the track and break my 10 bolt.
For those who were not following PewterScreaminMach’ first thread, we have similar setups.
For those who were not following PewterScreaminMach’ first thread, we have similar setups.
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Originally Posted by ScreaminRedZ
My advise is to just save up and get a whole new combo from scratch. Maybe something from Vengence.
Or you could try something from LG Motorsports. They hooked my car up great. Just look at the sig.
#20
bsf - Where's my imaginary pie???!!! Damn, if it wasn't imaginary, I would be enjoying one tasty treat... Looks like you're having issues with your setup, whereas mine just makes unimpressive power. The more I think about my setup, though, the more I realize that take away the 12-bolt and driveshaft (which the baseline showed as costing me 20rwhp and 23rwtq) and I would be right at 420/390 or so, which isn't necessarily that bad for these crappy heads and a smaller cam.
allngn_c5 - yeah, I've looked at that G5X3 cam before and have been fairly impressed with the results I've seen. Your setup looks very similar to what I'd be going for if / when I try a new setup. Would you care to let me know (PM if you want) roughly how much that 90/90, heads, and cam setup costed you? Are you still on stock fuel components? Also, with that kind of power in a C5, you should be looking at low 11s / high 10s if you can get it to hook up! Going to the track anytime soon?
allngn_c5 - yeah, I've looked at that G5X3 cam before and have been fairly impressed with the results I've seen. Your setup looks very similar to what I'd be going for if / when I try a new setup. Would you care to let me know (PM if you want) roughly how much that 90/90, heads, and cam setup costed you? Are you still on stock fuel components? Also, with that kind of power in a C5, you should be looking at low 11s / high 10s if you can get it to hook up! Going to the track anytime soon?