Mamofied AFR FAST90 238/240 9" rear 347
10-24-2007, 08:48 PM
#1
Mamofied AFR FAST90 238/240 9" rear 347 
Before and after Terms 234/240 112 lsa cam
205's fast90 238/240 113 lsa
I told Tony I liked to play in the upper rpms and didnt mind giving up some torque down low.
The previous combo isnt bad but it's all done when I'm just starting to think about shifting
loosing around 18hp and tq to the 9" handicap on the dyno and this is a mustang dyno as well, car is well mannered drives very well.
You still have plenty of power for driving around town. Now the car should be quicker in the 1/4 mile.
10-25-2007, 02:08 AM
#4
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Before and after Terms 234/240 112 lsa cam
205's fast90 238/240 113 lsa
I told Tony I liked to play in the upper rpms and didnt mind giving up some torque down low.
The previous combo isnt bad but it's all done when I'm just starting to think about shifting
loosing around 18hp and tq to the 9" handicap on the dyno and this is a mustang dyno as well, car is well mannered drives very well.
How is the streetability around town now?
This low power in the low range is something that doesn't bothered the "well manered drive"?
Christian
10-25-2007, 05:38 AM
#5
No, that's the whole point of my setup. I was having real traction issues anytime I left a stop light with any force. I wantedmy powerband moved to where I use it more. Which is the upper rpms. I leave the light wait and match speeds of who ever I'm screwing with. When they have to shift I nail the gas.. which is around 4500-5000 rpms usually. Anyway I stomp on it when they shift while I'm still in first. Drop second and no one touches me. I had 224 112 lsa for a while.
As far as driveability it basicaly feels like stock until you hammer it. The dynontest doesnt start until 2500 rpms, so you really cant see power below that but. Its a v8, it doesnt just limp along at 300 ft lbs of torque. Traction is much more managable this way for me. I dont feather the clutch when I drive at all. With the tr224 my tires were going up in smoke all the time and I had to play catch up due to lack of traction.
You cant win a race by sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning. I've taken care of that. Had the setup built for my specific driving style.
As far as driveability it basicaly feels like stock until you hammer it. The dynontest doesnt start until 2500 rpms, so you really cant see power below that but. Its a v8, it doesnt just limp along at 300 ft lbs of torque. Traction is much more managable this way for me. I dont feather the clutch when I drive at all. With the tr224 my tires were going up in smoke all the time and I had to play catch up due to lack of traction.
You cant win a race by sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning. I've taken care of that. Had the setup built for my specific driving style.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 10-25-2007 at 11:18 AM.
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10-25-2007, 07:54 AM
#8
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No, that's the whole point of my setup. I was having real traction issues anytime I left a stop light with any force. I wantedmy powerband moved to where I use it more. Which is the upper rpms. I leave the light wait and match speeds of who ever I'm screwing with. When they have to shift I nail the gas.. which is around 4500-5000 rpms usually. Anyway I stomp on it when they shift while I'm still in first. Drop second and no one touches me. I had 224 112 lsa for a while.
As far as driveability it basicaly feels like stock until you hammer it. The dynontest doesnt start until 2500 rpms, so you really cant see power below that but. Its a v8, it doesnt just limp along at 300 ft lbs of torque. Traction is much more managable this way for me. I dont feather the clutch when I drive at all. With the tr224 my tires were going up in smoke all the time and I had to play catch up due to lack of traction.
You cant win a race by sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning. I've taken care of that. Had the setup built for my specific drving style.
As far as driveability it basicaly feels like stock until you hammer it. The dynontest doesnt start until 2500 rpms, so you really cant see power below that but. Its a v8, it doesnt just limp along at 300 ft lbs of torque. Traction is much more managable this way for me. I dont feather the clutch when I drive at all. With the tr224 my tires were going up in smoke all the time and I had to play catch up due to lack of traction.
You cant win a race by sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning. I've taken care of that. Had the setup built for my specific drving style.
10-25-2007, 09:29 AM
#9
LMAO!! WHy is that? Because I drive the way I want? Because I dont get time to go the track, thus 1/4 mile times mean nothing to me? I didnt build a drag queen, I built a road racer. My suspension is hard. My 60's are 2.4 avg with 2.6 being the high and 2.2 being the best. My gas mileage has improved and I dont have the issue of sitting still while my tires are spinning.
so how does that make me an idiot? My car is built exactly to the way I drive it. If you dont like the way I drive then stay out of my way and you wont get hurt. Did I give up low end torque? Hell yes, This is my 3rd cam swap. I know what I like. I gave up more torque everytime and have found no negative effects what so ever.
Or is it the fact you dont like me ******* with people at a light? Either way unless you expound your comment your just being a troll with a useless comment. You must have a reason for your answer what is it?
To the other guy I went from Terms and a 234 to AFR and a 238
All I was looking for was top end gain. I have my reason for it. I'd rather down shift and explode with power at 4000 rpms then have a bunch of torque that isn't as effective. I like to roll from 4000 rpms. I havent lost yet with the new combo and it isnt even close when I race. I and my car are not drag queens, its a different type of power. Also my car 4050 lbs with a half tank of gas. If I wanted to serious drag race I'd need to up the cubic inches or make the car go on a severe diet and then get an auto tranny because lets face it... autos work so much better at the track. PUsh the gas and keep it straight. Not my idea of driving.
so how does that make me an idiot? My car is built exactly to the way I drive it. If you dont like the way I drive then stay out of my way and you wont get hurt. Did I give up low end torque? Hell yes, This is my 3rd cam swap. I know what I like. I gave up more torque everytime and have found no negative effects what so ever.
Or is it the fact you dont like me ******* with people at a light? Either way unless you expound your comment your just being a troll with a useless comment. You must have a reason for your answer what is it?
To the other guy I went from Terms and a 234 to AFR and a 238
All I was looking for was top end gain. I have my reason for it. I'd rather down shift and explode with power at 4000 rpms then have a bunch of torque that isn't as effective. I like to roll from 4000 rpms. I havent lost yet with the new combo and it isnt even close when I race. I and my car are not drag queens, its a different type of power. Also my car 4050 lbs with a half tank of gas. If I wanted to serious drag race I'd need to up the cubic inches or make the car go on a severe diet and then get an auto tranny because lets face it... autos work so much better at the track. PUsh the gas and keep it straight. Not my idea of driving.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 10-25-2007 at 09:38 AM.
10-25-2007, 09:36 AM
#10
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No, that's the whole point of my setup. I was having real traction issues anytime I left a stop light with any force. I wantedmy powerband moved to where I use it more. Which is the upper rpms. I leave the light wait and match speeds of who ever I'm screwing with. When they have to shift I nail the gas.. which is around 4500-5000 rpms usually. Anyway I stomp on it when they shift while I'm still in first. Drop second and no one touches me. I had 224 112 lsa for a while.
As far as driveability it basicaly feels like stock until you hammer it. The dynontest doesnt start until 2500 rpms, so you really cant see power below that but. Its a v8, it doesnt just limp along at 300 ft lbs of torque. Traction is much more managable this way for me. I dont feather the clutch when I drive at all. With the tr224 my tires were going up in smoke all the time and I had to play catch up due to lack of traction.
You cant win a race by sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning. I've taken care of that. Had the setup built for my specific drving style.
As far as driveability it basicaly feels like stock until you hammer it. The dynontest doesnt start until 2500 rpms, so you really cant see power below that but. Its a v8, it doesnt just limp along at 300 ft lbs of torque. Traction is much more managable this way for me. I dont feather the clutch when I drive at all. With the tr224 my tires were going up in smoke all the time and I had to play catch up due to lack of traction.
You cant win a race by sitting at the starting line with your tires spinning. I've taken care of that. Had the setup built for my specific drving style.
We had a animated debate together on this subject beginning of August this year, and it seems that you have adjusted your opinion, you did follow my path!!!!!!
In reference find the thread mentioned above in the link below (take care...strong words inside!!!!!):
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/761227-so-i-want-over-500-rwhp-head-cam-swap-what-cam-would-best.html
My combo gained BIG rwhp up top...BUT didnt loose anything down low...
Christian
10-25-2007, 09:52 AM
#11
Ahh, no I wasnt wrong then and arent now. I didnt say this was a street friendly setup, I said it was setup as to how I drive. Big difference. Maybe you drive the same way?
If I was building a street setup or to make my current one a street setup I'd go to the 224/228 cam. SO I can see where your coming from now at least. I still say the same. I just did different for my latest combo.
Side note: I need to change my heads gaskets to cometics .040. The Felpros are seeping. Dont ever go wth FelPro gaskets. My tuner now has a list of at least 8 people who have had issues with them seeping.
Honestly my car is faster now than it has ever been. I'm sure the 3.89's help with that though.
Now if you were to say hypocrite.. then you might be right...lol
If I was building a street setup or to make my current one a street setup I'd go to the 224/228 cam. SO I can see where your coming from now at least. I still say the same. I just did different for my latest combo.
Side note: I need to change my heads gaskets to cometics .040. The Felpros are seeping. Dont ever go wth FelPro gaskets. My tuner now has a list of at least 8 people who have had issues with them seeping.
Honestly my car is faster now than it has ever been. I'm sure the 3.89's help with that though.
Now if you were to say hypocrite.. then you might be right...lol
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 10-25-2007 at 10:38 AM.
10-25-2007, 10:08 AM
#12
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Hi 99blancoSS,
SORRY, you were wrong, but if you want to continue to argue join back the thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=761227
Christian
SORRY, you were wrong, but if you want to continue to argue join back the thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=761227
Christian
10-25-2007, 10:44 AM
#13
Christian I'm not going to argue with you about it. You give up low end by going bigger and it isnt street friendly unless you drive a certain style. Yes the car drives fine but doesnt start to really kick until the upper rpms. Most street builds are looking for torque down low.
My tr224 put up over 325 ft lbs of tq at 3000 rpms and then at 3500 it was over 350 and at 3700 rpms its at 372. All with a canned tune and cam only. (dynojet numbers here)
I'm very qualified to say what I've said, I've got the dyno results on three different head and cam packages to prove it. In fact if you want I can send you all the dyno graphs and document my cars evolution for you.
I can also show you where the prc tr224 combo walked all over a fm13 tea 5.3 head combo.
I said it in your thread and I'll say it in this one. The bigger the cam the more latent the power the less the torque.
here some more data for you Christian: My tr224 with PRC 5.3 heads
2700 rpms 331 tq 4000rpms 377 tq max was 378 and these are Mustang dyno numbers here... add 30 to it to get dynojet numbers
My tr224 put up over 325 ft lbs of tq at 3000 rpms and then at 3500 it was over 350 and at 3700 rpms its at 372. All with a canned tune and cam only. (dynojet numbers here)
I'm very qualified to say what I've said, I've got the dyno results on three different head and cam packages to prove it. In fact if you want I can send you all the dyno graphs and document my cars evolution for you.
I can also show you where the prc tr224 combo walked all over a fm13 tea 5.3 head combo.
I said it in your thread and I'll say it in this one. The bigger the cam the more latent the power the less the torque.
here some more data for you Christian: My tr224 with PRC 5.3 heads
2700 rpms 331 tq 4000rpms 377 tq max was 378 and these are Mustang dyno numbers here... add 30 to it to get dynojet numbers
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 10-25-2007 at 11:22 AM.
10-25-2007, 11:15 AM
#14
Troll girl here didnt replay so I pm her.. this was her answer for calling me an idiot. My car also has a nitro dave dual stage plate system and the engine was built for a 300 shot. Its plumbed for two 100 hits. I dont think your dragging me anywhere unless you've got 700 rwhp.
Your the moron that is saying nobody can touch you, not me, btw I would drag that *** down the street, so stfu and diaf.
10-25-2007, 11:16 AM
#15
Who knows man, with running the Terms with the bigger cam and rockers, you might have gained most of that peak HP and kept some of it down low... I can't really see the Terms/port mismatch alone resulting in the 20-25HP gain considering we've made 490+ RWHP with the same heads you had. However, I'm sure the Tony Mamo Ported heads did pick up some power up top as well. Either way, as long as you're happy with the car, that is all that matters. Good luck with the setup!
10-25-2007, 11:31 AM
#16
Who knows man, with running the Terms with the bigger cam and rockers, you might have gained most of that peak HP and kept some of it down low... I can't really see the Terms/port mismatch alone resulting in the 20-25HP gain considering we've made 490+ RWHP with the same heads you had. However, I'm sure the Tony Mamo Ported heads did pick up some power up top as well. Either way, as long as you're happy with the car, that is all that matters. Good luck with the setup!
Interesting results from a local guy here with your 233/239. He bolted up some stock 243's and gained like 40hp. He also went to the TSP true dual setup wich I'm sure added to the fact and a ported fast 90 I think as well.
He put down 431 and like 395-400tq on the same dyno. He doesnt have a 9" rear but it just goes to show you how good those 243 are over the other oem heads. I'm going to work on the exhaust now and see if I can free up some more power.
Really you could say the Terms and the 234/240 ls6 combo was pretty damn stout.
Last edited by 99blancoSS; 10-25-2007 at 01:26 PM.
You can hand me my first loss.