Paul F

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the A/F looks okay on the graph, maybe a little rich up top, but it look strange when posted by speed though. I didn't mean that the cats would screw up the A/F of the car with cats on it but it will mess the the dyno's A/F probe readings.

Do you know what the timing was or if you were getting any KR? Those numbers are way too low and it wouldn't be a bad idea to make a few pulls on another DynoJet for the hell of it.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

A few questions for ya:

What grade of fuel?
Was the wideband O2 installed in the manifold or shoved up the tail pipe?
Did you Autotap your car for knock and timing?

I hang with a local guy that has a dyno and found out that there is a .2-.5 difference in wideband O2 readings if you place it at the header or tailpipe.

Since you have LS1 Edit, why didn't you try to tune with it? There's a lot more to it than just getting a 12.8-1 air/fuel......

If you want your springs to last, don't go over 6,600-6,700 RPM's.

Install some LT Headers, put her back on the dyno and then post the results.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Timing is @ 29. No KR. I tapped the runs. I'll see if I can get it on another dyno jet. But this is the one I have been using since stock. So I could compare the numbers.

But at the track the next day, I was racing a 2000 SS with MTI Stage II Heads, Cam. He had an A4 with a converter and Headers. For me to keep with him, I had to run my 100 shot.

He was running 7.7 in the 1/8 N/A I was running 8.5 N/A

The only other thing that worried me is I bought the Cam used. I sent a pic to you guys just to make sure it was a TR cam. Which you confirmed.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

1. 91 pump gas
2. Tailpipe wideband
3. Yes I tapped it timing was @ 29. No KR

How much of a difference which way?

I wanted to get a baseline first before tuning it. I have my rev limiter set @ 6700, shifts @ 6400. Not sure how the operator got it to 7000.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Tailpipe wideband will give you a tad leaner (.2-.5) reading than checking it at the header. Also, cats will throw it off some more, after the cats that is...

I have a TR 224 cam 114 lsa, Absolute Stage 2 heads, ported TB, SLP LT no cats, and I dynoed 412 HP & 396 TQ. It's a M6.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

BTW - when you dyno next, install the WB O2 before your cat in the drivers side manifold. Make sure you wear gloves, it's hot up there! lol

Paul F

iTrader: (2)

He probably didn't get it to 7000. Since you have an auto w/ a converter it will read higher on the dyno then it actually turns.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

So I am running even richer than I thought??

Will I need to weld on a 02 bung??

I guess I should do this and lock the TC when I tune correct?

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Guess that would screw up tuning. I will have to lock the TC next time.

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Just take out your driver side O2 sensor and install the Wideband in it's place, before the cat. Don't worry, it won't hurt anything, I've done it a bunch of times.

If you TC isn't locked up, you'll be down some power there....

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

That even works better. I have another Dyno Jet who only does widebands that way. Its an older machine, but they will allow me to tune.

I'll check with them and see if they can hook that way.

The car won't have a problem at idle since it is disconnected??

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Nope, no idle problem.

In LS1 Edit, under the Main Volume Efficent table, add 5% or 105% from 2,400 all the way up. This tells the computer that more air is coming into the engine, IE heads and cam. I picked up 4 HP with just that change!

When you adjust your timing in LS1 Edit, start with Map 75 and from 2,400 or so up, step up your timing, don't go from say 24 to 28, make it a gradual change as RPM increases.

If you have hot start problems, go back to the Main VE table again and from 0-1200 RPM's Map 0 to Map 50, make them 70% of the current value, you'll be taking away 30%.

Hope this helps...

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

All makes sense, except for the timing. Don't we change it in the HIgh Octane Spark Advance Table? I didn't see anything with MAP.

Good idea on using the VE tables. I was thinking of just using the PE only.

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Ed, sorry to hear about your problems. I would get the rest of the bolt ons (longtubes, LS6 intake, etc), check the 02 sensors, and take it to a pro shop for tuning and see what they can get out of it. Locking the covertor would give you maybe 3-5 rwhp tops because of the efficiency of the vig.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Well Thanks Tony, the LS6 intake will be next. Debating how I will handle smog before getting headers. I just want to lock the TC just for tuning. Not for the extra dyno numbers.

But I really thought I would do better before tuning.

99BlueZ28

One thing I don't agree on (and I may be in the minority) is locking up the converter on the dyno to enhance the numbers. If the car is driven on the street or strip with the converter unlocked all the other times, why lock it up on the dyno?

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

From what I understand, you do it for tuning.

ne14a6t9

everything you did is confusing me, this is what I got so far, you have stg2 5.3l heads, tr224 cam on stock manifolds,cats, stock tuning, stock ls1 intake and you expect to make 400 hp on a mustang dyno with an unlocked converter. I think you need to think it out a little better. Do as many mods as you can while staying smog legal, do an ls6 intake first, then maybe some shorty headers, while you have the ex apart, I think all you have to do is hold a light in one end of the cat and you sholud be able to see the light from the other side, if its clogged the light will be dull. I thought i read that an unlocked vig will show less hp than a yank and a stock verter, after you do all these mods and checks recheck your tune using an atap to check for nk retard and o2's, if your still down alot of power and getting gassed by other heads cam cars then you have to look into getting the cam timing checked and make sure theres no broken springs on the heads

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

I wasn't expecting 400 on a Mustang Dyno. That would be like 440 on a Dyno Jet. No way, even with full exhaust.

I was hoping for 350 - 360 on a Dyno Jet. But since I don't know of anyone who has done it in this order. I wasn't sure. I really thought I would get more that 36 rwhp.

And the only reason I did it this way was because of smog.

ne14a6t9

Ed- It still doesnt make sense to me that you pulled more on the mustang dyno over the dyno jet, could there be something wrong with the dyno jet, maybe the dyno is off from the last time you dynoed, you may have gotten more than 36 rwhp, Id like to see the follow up on the other dyno jet, do you have a track comparison with d.a. on both runs