PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Wow, you made almost the exact numbers I did (400/367). You have a bit more done with the better heads, rockers, and 90/90, but you are also running through an auto and stall, so that seems to even it out. I trapped the same as you last time at the track, as well, which is pretty funny, but I had zero traction all the way to the 1/8, so I think I'll trap a bit higher when I get some MTs. Your ET smashes mine though, being an automatic and me having no traction.

I think your trap/ET are dead on for those power numbers being an auto, BTW.

00hawk120

iTrader: (1)

put down 397, 395 last night on a dynojet after a tune. stage one ls6 heads, tr224 cam, Hooker LT's, all the bolt ons, 12 bolt with 4.10's. granted it was cool but rainy and humid. I didnt think that was to bad. dyno before that on the same dyno before heads, tune and ls6 intake was 367

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Yeah, I went a 1.59' short time on the 11.55 and a 1.57' short time on the 11.51. I went for a third shot and it started to rain, so they called it. For the third run I was going to bump my shift points up higher. They were set at 6100 1-2 and 6100 2-3. The Tech II actually showed the shifting occuring at 6300 RPM. I had raised them both by 200RPM, so I will see what happens next week. I think it will go mid 40's. I was leaving at about 1500 RPM and letting it flash the converter with 15psi in the tires, it seemed to be hooking quite well.

I ran 12.17 last year first out with it (402/367 unlocked) and ET street radials (M/T) with a PY3400 Yank that acted like a stock converter, it was killing it. It would dead hook on the street and at the track it didn't even think about turning the tire, only had a 1.81 - 1.83 short times. The Yank 4000SS woke it up!!!! The ET street radials wouldn't hold it on the line, after switching to the Hoosier QTP's the converter turned out being worth almost 7 tenths at the strip. I am sure it would dyno even less now with this converter, but maybe not locked, but who cares.

My car is just like yours except it is a hardtop. Look for a thread in the 11 second forum or the drag race forum here shortly. I have a vid of the 11.51 to post up.

RotaryMuffler

iTrader: (2)

I had to fly cut the pistons because I used to have a trex and had ptv contact with just the stock heads, then I upgraded to the patriots after I puirchased the ms3 and the reason I sold the trex was I didnt care for it.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

You guys dyno’ing ~400+/370+ are full of crap. You are not even in the same league as some of us cellar dwellers. I am banning all of you from this thread. That includes you Pewter. Your numbers are not bad to enough to be in your own thread.

NVR4GET

iTrader: (3)

You need a cut out for more power, also you have a 3.70 gear not a 4.10 so no need for more then 26 inchs slick. Oh ya and do you have a 85+mm maf?

tonic

iTrader: (65)

amen bsf

tonic

iTrader: (65)

by the way great thread

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

It would probably like a cut-out, as far as the 26" ers I think they look retarded on these cars. I wish 28's fit nicely but they just don't, I like the look of the tire filling the wheelwell. Besides, I am running through the lights at 6200 right now with the Yank 4000SS, 3.70 gear and 27" Hoosier, so I am not leaving much on the table, maybe a little I guess.....Next item to install is a 100HP NX MAF kit, so I will defintely need the taller tire.

I don't know that the 85mm MAF would pick me up, I have read countless threads proving otherwise, did you see a positive result on a LS1 (346) making 400RWHP?

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Haha, when I have to explain to everyone why my H/C setup is making less power AND torque than my brother's cam-only setup and we run dead even, I think I fit into this thread quite nicely.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Wow, nice 60's. So you like the Hoosier QTPs better than the MTs? I'm trying to decide right now whether to go with ET Street Drags or ET Street Radials, and I'm leaning towards the drags because I'm an M6. The big difference is I can drive the radials to the track, but my main concern is obviously traction, and I think a bias-ply will be more along the lines of what I'm looking for if I can get them to the track without an issue. I hadn't read much about the Hoosiers.

ExceSSive

iTrader: (13)

I feel your pain...I had friends that were cam only and I was almost even with them...the only place I could out run them was the track because I had an A4 and they had M6s and could not launch as well as me...but they would ET better and MPH better.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Haha, yeah, my brother and I both have 2002 M6 Z28s, his is red and mine is pewter. He is cam-only and put down 420/37X before his 12-bolt and I'm H/C and put down 400/367 after my 12-bolt, both tuned and dynoed at the same place. Both 12-bolts w/ 4.10s and similar bolt-ons, but we run pretty much dead even because of my transmission gearing advantage (I have a GTO trans). He has the quicker ET and trap at the track, though, because he is a better driver and I have no traction. I'm hoping to change this this year, though.

Either way, a couple years down the road I plan on upgrading to some Trickflows, a bigger cam (he has a much bigger cam than I do), and the full 92 setup. My goal is just a strong running H/C car.

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

What cam is ur brother running?

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

I don't remember the exact numbers, but the rough specs are 23X/23X 56X/56X 112 LSA. I want to say around 236 on the duration and 560 on the lift, but I'll have to double check with him.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

The Hoosier 27x11.5 fits the wheelwell best on the 15x10 drag rim. For a 15" wheel it was the best choice IMO without rubbing anything. For 17" wheels the MT ET street radial is O.K. The radial defintely drives better than the bias ply, but the bias ply definitely hooks harder. It is a trade-off on what you want most, traction or street manners.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, they'll actually be on stock size 16" wheels because I got them for free and can use them as my track only wheels. I keep Nittos on my 17" SS wheels for normal cruising and driving. The Nittos don't hook as well as the MTs, but they hook a lot better than street tires and last a million times longer than MTs. I don't want to have to modify the fender wells at all.

I'm just trying to decide if I'll be able to bring an extra set of wheels to the track so I don't have to drive my track tires there (2 hours to the nearest track). If I can't, I'll have to go with the radials. If I can, I'll go with the bias-ply. Either way, I'm looking at 26 x 10.5 x 16 ET Streets.

EDIT - I just saw your attached picture. DAMN those things hook. Those are 15" QTPs? What wheels are those?

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Yes, they hook awesome! They are the Hoosier 27x11.5x15 QTP's. They fit without any mods on the Bogart 15x9.75 wheel and completely stick it. There is an inch or so under the front tire on that launch (1.57 60') My 17" M/T radials would not do that.

RealLiveMD

iTrader: (1)

394/375 pat stg 2 heads, cheatr cam, jet hot LT, LS7 clutch, rebuilt trans, thunder racing ported throttle body (netted 0 additional horses), built catted y. and 3.42s. 13.6 @108. I ran 13.2 and 108 with just lid and magnaflow. I did have problems with 3rd and bad wheel hop though. Either way I think I just won.

PonchoFan

Just had heads installed and tuned:
382.9 rwhp and 387 ft/lbs on a Dynojet.

Car in sig.