Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Go with a big bore/stroker setup with 10.1:1-10.5:1 compression. Should be a pretty fast little ride with a Procharger behind it.

mach1337

would love too. right now i can get a 03 cobra block with 44k miles on it for 2400 or i can get a 5.0 stroker block for 3200. dunno just depends on how long it takes me to get the money. well see.

ponygt65

OH ****...that sucks BIG time man.
Sounds good man.....I think a forged block now, and LT's later (if you choose) is a much better choice, especially being a DD. Gotcha on teh 50#'s..and good luck!

+1

I wouldn't go with a CObra short block though. Since you only have a P1SC (even if a D1SC) you'll lose a lot of low end power from only having 8.5:1 CR. If you get it, a rebuild maybe the best thing anyway, so I'd start from scratch and do as Stop suggests.....go with ~10-10.3:1 with a centrif. I wouldn't go any lower than 9.85:1. ALOT of power would be left on the table if you did. Even if you had to pull a tad bit of timing pending your local pump gas octane, you'd still end up with more power than going with a 8.5:1 setup.

just my two cents.

mach1337

can you enlighten me on the difference in the big bore and the stroker? im really lookin for a block that i can take everything off my current one and just bolt it up take it in for a tune and call it good. yeah i know im a lil lazy but still like i said i want between 450-500 rwhp. who knows well see what i can find. i do know that i can get a stroker for 3200 so thats not too bad. time for more research.

ponygt65

In short, A stroker means a larger crank which = more CID for the current block.

Big Bore Stroker is that, plus 'widening' the cylinders for a 'larger hole' (fi you will). It allows a larger diameter piston.

I would get a forged stroker kit. That will maximize your current block without having to do much machine work if any. Having the cylinders honed to clean them up may be a good idea, but that will depend on the condition/mileage really.

BTW - I would get a GOOD brand piston/rod/crank (stroker kit). Not nec. the cheapest. H-beam rods are rated lower than I-beams so they are cheaper, but you should be fine with them as some brands have been known to hold 700HP (although not rated that high). I-beams are what's in the 03/04 cobra and the H-beams are in the GT500s.

Just some food for though.

mach1337

did a lil more research and found out just what you said.

now comes the question. i cant just swap all my current stuff from my 4.6 to a big bore can i. so far i havent found anything on it. also looks like the 5.4 would work but would be pita. also do you know which blocks are a direct swap?

so looks like i will be goin for the forged stroker and just do a block swap and possibly sell the old block. we shall see.

he remind me if i ever meet you i owe you a beer. . thanks mike

sorry ls1 guys i cant get answers on my own forum so i come to see you all.

ponygt65

No problem man. I'm always here to help, no matter what the site is.

There's a lot to look into really. How much down time do you have and how much $$ can you budget? If you get a new short block, you'll at least have a spare bare alum block or you could sell it and help recoupe some $$. THat will give you less down time as well. On teh flip side 90% of 'affordable' short blocks are going to be Cast iron and weigh more. Going with the Mach's alum. block you will save some front weight. with all of the FI mounting and I/C, you might want to think about saving that weight. You 'should' be able to cross all of your stuff over to a big bore, but honestly, I haven't looked into it much, so I'm not 100% sure. I'm pretty certain as i can't think of anythign that wouldn't cross, but I dont' want to mislead you so I can't really say. If you go that route, modulars don't like to be bored more than 30 over stock. So, if that's what you go with, and for some reason you toast a piston and need cyl. work, you're out a block. If you stick with stock bore and something happens, you can at least bore it .1 or .2 or .3 over and reuse it.

I like to error on the safe side, so I'd go with a forged stroker with the stock WAP block if you can wait the down time. Once it's all 'setup' and you have some fun with it, I'd look into a D1SC head unit to swap. (Unless you're in CA too. Only the P1sc's are CARB certified for smog).

EDIT:.........BTW - you should really give yourself some 'breathing' budget $$$. If you have say....$8k for this, then shoot for $7 or 7.5 TOPS, IMO. Something always comes up. THat's just the way it works. If it doesn't and all goes well, then you have money saved for 31spline rear setup if you want, or what have you.

mach1337

well the main thing that i am worried about is down time. which is why i am looking at a new block and not forging the one thats in there. if i could do the big bore and have it forged it would be less down time. but also i can get the 5.0 stroker with less down time.ok well it looks like i will have to do some research on the big bore. i cant find one thats forged. but im not too concerned on the weight up front i can live with that.

my budget for the whole project of s/c and forged block is 8000 so far i have spent 3k on the s/c stuff. so i have about 5000 for the block and all the other stuff like clutch long tubes and what not will come later.

eventually i will go to a d1 but like you said im in cali. however i have a loop hole. since im military i have my car registered in my home state. no emissions there.

and since im doin all the work myself it will save on the install costs. more for less the way i see it.

EDIT... good news is that you can put a stoker kit in the 5.0 and it becomes a 5.3l 324cid. so i think thats what im gonna do but it will cost a lil more owe well.

ponygt65

The 5.0 IS a stroker. 4.6 stroked is a 5.0xx litre. (unless I'm misunderstanding you).

$3g's intot he S/C?...I hope you got everything...as in injectors, pump/s, entire kit, gauges, etc. I sold my P12SC for $2000 and included darn near everything.

Here's something to consider...........Pick up a Used Teksid, or Mach short block and build that up while you are driving the car around. Basically, get the bare block and forged stroker kit (dont' forget the ARP bolts...I forgot that until now). You can do short block assembly yourself, and then swap it over. You can get a stroker kit for roughly $1500 and a Teksid bare block for roughly $350 (I've seen them up here for $250-300). Then you can install the crank, internals, bolts, etc. to get it ready. Then spend 3-4 days or whatever, and swap it over. That's what I'd do since you dont' want to worry about down time.


Shoot me a PM, if you want and I'll give you my cell.....well, if you have the same carrier. ROFL.

mach1337

well did some research and the 5.0 big bore block and the 4.6 crank make it a 5.0 but if you put a stroker rotating assembly from the 4.6 its a 5.3 least thats what i was told.

the s/c kit i got for 2300 but it was missin the injectors and pumps. came with the gauges tho. so i got the pump and gauges and also got a mgw short throw all for about 3000.

where did you find a stroker kit for 1500. i have seen 1900 and 2100 but never 1500.

and ill send you a pm.

mach1337

well picked up a teksid for 450 that just got back from the machine shop all cleaned up and everything. looks good gettin my mom to hold on to it for me till i get back states side then its time to build. well see how it goes.

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

slow haha

ponygt65

Sounds good man.

LOL. We'll see...or better yet, you'll see.

Let's just say...I could help him out enough that you'll NEED that bottle to even be within a car.

mach1337

Hell yeah hook it up. but then again splatt is helpin me on the build lol. i think it will be fun no matter what. man do i wish it was oct.

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

haha only time will tell. Thank god for a 150 shot. dont think i will need it though. should definitely be fun.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

SPLATT just take the pills out of the nozzle and run open lines. That should shut him and Pony up. lol

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

LOL! not with these noids haha. that thing would pop like a firecracker. Well....actually...thats one way to get the wife to let me get a new motor. In all seriousness though it should be an outstanding race. Might have to bring along the Sony HD camcorder!

TRMach1

I'll be real interested to see how this all turns out! Having recently been down a path similar to this.

boostcreep

what you NEED to do is get new rear tires ...

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

yea. Some DRs will be first. those tires now have seen 2 deployments on there. they are ready to go. i think i have to get some radials before i even tint the damn thing.