SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

Hey all,


Figured i'd test out this section and post a "what if" thread. here are the cars:

-2002 T/A M6 : Built T56, stock 10 bolt, PRC 2.5 LS6 heads, TR230 cam, all supporting mods and fuel system for N20. Also most bolt ons, along with LTs and cats. Cats will be cut off before the race. Car was dynoed at 406RWHP off bottle, and 502 on a 100 shot cutting off at 5800 due to being lean, looked like it had another 10RW in it. The 125 jets will be in for this race. maybe 100 depending. Tires will be some type of DR

-2004 Mach 1 5-speed : After deployment we will be installing the following; P1sc Procharger kit, along with a fuel system good to around 550-600RWHP, a set of longtubes, and a catless H, a MGW shifter, And various bolt ons. The car will also be dyno tuned. should be running around 10-12LBS on the race

Keep in mind it is still a couple months away, but he seems pretty sure he is going to run right with me, if not beat me. Let me know how you guys think this will end up!

Ryans99ls1

iTrader: (16)

im gonna say you if your car runs good on nitrous. its gonna be close but you should edge him out

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

It won't be close. You will pull him easy unless he makes unsafe power. His stock motor wont last long with 500rwhp. However if he gets the right gears and knows what he is doing his car could be deadly. My 99 Cobra on the stock longblock with a P1SC @ 11psi and a set of 4.30 gears ran 10.9@126mph. The motor blew shortly after however. I figure I was making around 500rwhp.

Your Firehawk looks beautiful btw.

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

thanks stopsign! Always nice to have Input from the knowledgeable stang guys around here. I believe he wants a 4.11 gear? not sure if they make that gear for a stang. I know it runs decent now, so it will definitely be a fun car after. I believe i am the better of the two drivers. And Ryan, the car loves the N20. I should keep it on the 100 shot i think to try and keep things more fair. If i am not mistaken i believe a 150 shot would put me nearly 100 or more RWHP above his. he is shooting for around 450RWHP.

ponygt65

1)....he won't be at 550-600 with a P1.
2)....he wont' finish the race at athat level wihtout a built block.
3)....I won't do 4.10s in a blown car...but thats me.

Need more info to give you a real estimate.

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

Like what info? He is only shooting for 450. Also, which gears would be best? thanks for the input

ponygt65

Oh..sorry, above you mention the fuel system and I took that as targeted power too. My fault.

well, I can give him more help than the potential race outcome.

First off....the only thing for fuel that he should go with is Cobra tank and pumps. That'll be plenty...along with 42# inj.

4.10s aren't too bad with a centrif. if it's not a DD. Then again, this is personal preference. If this is his fun goof around car, then no biggie, but if he's going to be DD'ing it or even close to it, I'd go with 3.73s or 3.90s.


Race outcome (asuming you're on 3.42s) I'd say, he has you off the bottle by a few, and you have him the same on the bottle. Namely do to the TQ you'll be putting down.


I'd suggest his list to be something like this:

42# inj.
Cobra tank and pumps
OR
FocusSVT pump and KB BAP
Colder plugs (AF42s IIRC)
4" or 3.9 (?)" pulley
boost, A/F, Fuel PSI gauges.
28Spline mosers (if he plans on doing dig races on DRs or MT ETs)

Personally, if I was him, I wouldn't bother with the LT's. In FI application that will decrease back pressure and reduce PSI. It's a 'nill' affect. If he was going ballZ to the wall all out, then sure, but he's basically installing a nice blower on a stock block. Kind of pointless at that level unless he wants the sound. I'd save that $2000 he's going to pay and put it towards forged internals for more power later. Hell, pending the shop that's doing the work, he may be able to fork out a few 100 more and get the forged internals installed instead of the LTs. DEFINITELy a better way to go.


BTW - LTs, O/R midpipe and 10-12 #'s will put him well over the advised limit for stock internals and not CA smog legal. Mind if I ask where he is getting his information from?

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

he posts on Mach 1 Registry mostly. The car is registered in TN so smog isnt too much of a worry. He goes by Mach1337 on here. Most the info is mine, and as you can tell im not very knowledgeable on machs. Thanks for the input pony!

squale iii

You'll smoke him on spray.

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

also, pony, i mistyped the boost, sorry, it will be 8-10 LBS. Although with some poking around on SVTP and M1R i have found some pretty low P1 numbers on a Mach, as low as the 420s i think. If he makes this, then i think i will keep the bottle off. Hopefully running from a dig with DRs. By then i should be catless, with an UD pulley and a ported TB. Possibly a FAST, but that one is least likely.

concerning the fuel system. i believe he will be running a GT40 pump and 50LBS injectors. will this be OK? He wanted a little room for improvement as he wants to forge it later too.

Sarge_13

iTrader: (1)

You'll take him on the spray easy.
I had a blown Mach for a short time and it was a fun car but wasn't as quick as I was hoping.

mach1337

hey im the silly noob without a ls1. any way yeah im not lookin to kill the stock block. but when i get the money i will be forging it. and then probably a d1 and 10-12 shortly after that. end goal is between 450-500 since this is the dd. and will be for a while. probably goin with some 373 or 390's like mentioned before. i figure i will get me @** handed to me for a while till i get usta her. well see.

ponygt65

Hey man.....I've seen you asking around about this setup.

50#'s are pointless. 42s are fine.

An FGT pump in your stock tank should be ok as well, but the 'basket' will have to modified for best 'pick up' of the fuel.

8-10s can and will net mid 400s. The thing is with the LT's you will produce Less PSI. Personally, since this is your DD I'd forget the LT's for now and save that money for the forging. Chances are they will pull the motor to install them anyway and 'essential' being a counter productive mod, at this point I wouldn't do it.


Above all else...make sure you get a great tune. I'd shoot for 11.8-12.1 A/F and 17-19*. IMO that'll be a good midpoint for power and safety.

ponygt65

If setup right, that should have been your second quickest car tied with the C6Z and behind the Cobra.

Sarge_13

iTrader: (1)

That car had problems I didn't notice when I bought it. Guy that bought it from me pulled the motor apart and found metal shavings in the oil and the pistons were all chewed up

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

4.30 gears

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

i dont think he wants to do 4.30s due to being a DD car. If it were me though i would have them in a heart beat. Mustangs seem to love a little bit of gear in them.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

You asked what would be the best gears and I told you. However not all blown Mustangs are fast, as we all know.

SPLATT

iTrader: (1)

true, and Very true lol.

mach1337

trying to get all the info i can about it before i start. since they say that knowledge is power and thats what im tryin to make. thanks for the advice i will keep that in mind. im really considering like you said not getting the l/t's yet since i have about enough for a forged short block already just need another 700-1000 and should have it and i can save that in to time. bein single and makin 40k+ a year with no bills really helps. and i already have the 50 lbs they were cheaper than 42's so i was like wtf why not... oh and all mods are done at home by myself and splatt. so wish us luck