Ke^in

I've asked other forums, and I'd like to hear input from this one as far as the pros and cons of different boosts.

My needs. No more than 350-400rwhp. That's all I want out of it. It's a DD that's a toy. I bought it to much around with. It's not a track car. I really don't want to spend more than $3k on parts (Minus the cost of getting it tuned, It's been done before for half that)

I want something that can be set up, and be pretty trouble free for the most part. I don't want something I'm going to have to mess with a lot.

I'd LOVE to turbo it, but I've heard it's even more money, and more problematic than superchargers are. While I know I can get more gains out of a turbo, but I am not looking for the most gains, but the most stable, and trouble free.

I welcome any cognitive reply.

1979rs/z28

iTrader: (21)

I'd go for a supercharger, just find a nice vortech/procharger setup. Got to remember that with forced induction you need to place alot of emphasis on the fuel system (which isnt very cheap) and other things that could potentially break(clutch, trans etc.) I dont think you'll be able to piece together a good 2v turbo kit for under 3k, its going to be tough enough to do the supercharger with that alone... Got to factor in the supporting mods also (exhuast, intake setup etc.) Are you doing it all yourself? You'll save alot right there.

Heater

^^ I agree^^

mickey62

I have had a Spleen stage VI on my 05 bg for four years without a single problem. I have 376 rwhp / 365 tq and 4,10 gears. Great DD . Not to many of the big boys can beat me on the street unless they have drag radials."Don't smoke! It losses faces."

F8L BYT

Supercharger or spray

Ke^in

Spray isn't an option. I have a question. They say adding an intercooler will make your supercharger more efficient and it's better on the engine. Since I only want 350-400, and a stock procharger setup can make that with a 2v, adding a intercooler would then add HP I don't want. Could you lower the boost on the supercharger, and still use the intercooler to keep it at 350-400? That would be running the supercharger less hard to get the same amount of HP. Is that something that would be smart to do?

SiL3NtXWS6

iTrader: (17)

you want an inter-cooler. trust me.

supersean

iTrader: (5)

Why isnt spraying an option?? A whole lot cheaper than anything your talking about doing and still goin to have good results with a ton less work...just sayin

F8L BYT

You definitely want a intercooler to prevent heat soak. If you add an intercooler, yeah they are more efficient and will help make more power but it should equal out to be about the same. When running boost through an intercooler, you lose a little boost, but the air is cooler. Non intercooled, you dont lose boost but you lose some power when it gets heat soaked from being so hot

Agreed! Why isn't it an option? It gets a bad rep from dumbasses that use it but if you do it right it is no worse than a supercharger or turbo. And its a lot cheaper

acertx

Might want to check this thread out.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/pipes...-its-done.html

MadIceV8

iTrader: (12)

Defiantly run a intercooler. If you didn't want to go past a certain HP you could always reduce the timing on the tune. This should also make the combination a bit safer. I also vote supercharger for the ease of install & sound.

Sarge_13

iTrader: (1)

To those suggesting nitrous, like he said it's a DD. Spray isn't always available like a turbo or supercharged car.

F8L BYT

Sure it is... remote bottle opener But seriously I see what you mean. Either way he couldnt go wrong

the jester 812

iTrader: (5)

well i will just stick my .02 cents in here, i dont really agree with the people saying you cant go wrong with turbo or supercharger, i have FI'd alot of factory NA vehicles, and SOMETHING always goes wrong. my suburban i maggied and it was fine for over 2 years but then the rear went, i fixed that and the tranny went. im not saying its the end of the world, but being that it will be the OP's DD, if it were my only DD, i would sit and think real hard before going FI. but eh, you live you learn, im just throwing in my experiences.

1979rs/z28

iTrader: (21)

X2 on that too. Had a buddy whos super low milage 02gt with 8 intercooled psi poop the bottom end before 30k miles. Always plan for the unexpected, and to top that he had a dead on conservative tune and a very nice fuel system with twin pumps... Fi isnt too much easier on the motor that nitrous.

It was in the plans to vortech my old gt till i thought hard about the way I drive and everyday it would only be a matter of time before it pop'd. Another reason I went to a ls1, I wanted a dependable 400hp without being worried about the motor.

ponygt65

Kevin -

If you want to keep this car a DD...........I'd toss on a P1SC blower, I/C'd with a 8psi pulley. (pending other mods...... - ) you should be around ~360rwhp. dont' forget you'll need a FSVT pump, FGT pump, or Aviator pump; 39 or 42 pound inj.; Plugs, tune and instal. I'd also go ahead and budget at least an upgraded clutch and hardened 28 spline mosier axles.

TUNE is EXTREMELY important. REsearch the CRAP out of that and the reputation. Talk to people that KNOW New Edge GT's. Don't go to someone known for S197s. The tuning is different. Dont' go to someone known for Pushrod's....same thing. (unless of course they are knowledged in all tunign perimeters of different years). I'd suggest a 11.5 A/F ratio and ~15 deg. of timing. That'll be on the safe side for your fuel and timing.


Let me know if you have any other Q's.

Ke^in

Because I don't like the constant expense of having to fill the bottle. And this isn't a strip car. It's just going to be a fun DD.

Ke^in

That's what I figured.
Already read it I'm a member there too. Just haven't posted as often as I do over at modded.
This sounds like just what I wanna do. Make it safer for the stock parts. I was told I could do that with a intercooler and low boost. I could still make 350-400 with other bolt-ons.
[QUOTE=the jester 812;12847374my suburban i maggied and it was fine for over 2 years but then the rear went, i fixed that and the tranny went. im not saying its the end of the world, but being that it will be the OP's DD, if it were my only DD, i would sit and think real hard before going FI. but eh, you live you learn, im just throwing in my experiences.[/QUOTE]

I am not going too high on boost. Like 6-8 pounds. The 4.6 modular is known to last with minor boost like this. Especially with a cooler. The rear will be fine, it's the tranny that might need upgraded a bit. I am not sure. I heard it was rated for 300-400 hp.
Wow.. that certainly isn't the norm for these things. I would have to hear details to figure that one out.
Again, the 4.6 is very dependable up to 400 without needing upgraded. I know someone right now with 450 that is HARD on his car and still has all the stock interior parts. That's pushing it though. I'll probably stay at 385rwhp.
I was looking at the P1SC. I heard it would make 350-360 stock. Adding bolt-ons can bring it up to 385.
Indeed, especially for FI. I will probably have to make a long trip to get it tuned. I live in the Mid Ohio Valley (Near Marietta and Belpre Ohio) I don't think this area even HAS a tuner.
Already doing that now. There are tons of people that have done this with them on moddedmustangs.com
Thanks for that info.

I am looking into it, and reading all I can right now. It probably wont be for another year before I get it on.

unit213

Here's a rule of thumb for doing a forced induction setup. Take your budget and double it.

travismcgillsdaddy

i say do heads cams and intake and minor boltons.