Anybody know which torque arm will fit with the qtp headers and qtp catted y-pipe with bmr drive shaft loop???

 

I think the UMI Performance one does. But it does come with it's own DS loop, so you will have to ditch the BMR one.

 

Any TQ Arm that mounts to the factory position will fit.

Spohn makes one for longtubes that also has a DSL and attaches to the floor that will fit.

 

Keep the stock one.

 

The Stealth Torque Arm will clear all exhaust work. I have one and it allowed me to use the TSP True Duals with the QTP headers, as well as my old FLP+Y-Pipe set up. And it helped me pull a 1.40 60' N/A Heads/Cam. Pete [bspZ28] also has the same torque arm. Stealth no longer exists, but if you call CARTEK 908.317.4496 they are able to make them on a case by case basis.

 

Why keep the stock one??

 

When it comes time that you need to upgrade teh rear, a driveshaft, and a tq arm shoudl also be on the list to do all at once.. when you need oen fo them, you really need all 3, might just not know it.

 

Well I think I have an aluminum d-shaft on the car when I bought it, But I think ill wait until I have a 9" rear end and ill get a tq arm then thanks.

 

Ask PurEvl what torque arm he runs,or badpewterZ,or Cyborg.

All stock and never a problem.

Stock-no noise,fitment prblems

 

I agree on the fitment and noise, I never really cared for the banging teh spohn one I have on my car now makes, it is annoying at best, but running one a stock one with slicks on a car that makes good power and launches hard, I wouldn't expcet it to last very long.

If noone was breaking teh stock ones, none of the aftermarket companies would make one. Plus the adjustability for pinion angle and instant center, are needed on a car that sees any real track action if you want it to hook.

 

Do you know how many 9 second cars run a stock arm? -alot.

JL,dude,if you spent the time you are on this board working on your car,it would be done by now

Sorry,couldn't resist

 

I think my wife would be happy to complan about how much I've been in the garage since it went up, apparently, I've been out there alot, when I'm actually home.

I've actually done about as much to it as I can, suspension stuff is done, fuel pump is in, weight reduction stuff is done..... since my garage went up, and I've had a place to work on it, I've actually spent alot of time on it.... and I'm still waiting for the damn garage door to come in Nothing worse then having to pick up and put all the tools back in the basement after starting a project and gettign 1/2 of it done, in your own garage becuase you can't lock it yet.
I was actually comtemplating getting a k member and a arms and getting them on before the motor swap, but I don't think I have time to get the parts here to do it before I have to get the car in for the motor, should be going in probably within a week or so now.
Right now I'm just waiting for one project NEXT to get done and out of the shop, once that car is done mine goes in. And after doing the head swap and having a problem occur nearly immediately, I'm not going inside any more motors, that's getting left to someone that knows what they are doing.. and that's not me, I'll be the first to admit it. I'll find out what went wrong as I'm reusing the oil pan and a couple other things.. I'm very curious as to what I screwed up, or if it was just a weak factory part.


I know there's alot of cars going 9's on a stock tq arm, but I know enough people that have broken them too, to me taking the risk isn't worth it.

 

yeah I dont think ill be getting a replacement tq arm then. But should I go 9" or 12bolt that is my next question. Don looks like your my new tuner.

 

well if it makes you feel better, i broke the stock one.. then put on a spohn mounted to the DS loop... broke that.. Now i have a stock one back on because i have long tubes and bought it for 50 bucks.. I dont like the idea of all the stress going to the transmission.. Does that create problems?

btw, all these cars have aluminum driveshafts.. they switched them back in the lt1 years.

 

yup still stock here full slicks and car does hook hard too

 

I'm putting a stock style chromoly bmr one on teh car with the th400, as the spohn one hangs too low, shoudl work fine with the th400 bmr crossmember with tq arm relocation I think... and not be too loud, big poly bushing on the end of it, and it's a longer arm then the spohn, should help keep the front tires on the ground at the track... at least I hope.

 

If you are running the QTP y-pipe with the Flowmaster merge I recommend a transmission mounted torque arm due to clearance issues. The last QTP y-pipe with the Flowmaster merge hung so low we could not get our tunnel mounted arm to work and had to run a tranny mounted arm. Now we have had the tunnel mounted arms clear with the QTP's before with NO drive shaft loop but that last time it just wouldn't work.

If I can help anymore please ask.

Thanks!
Ryan

 

I am running a qtp Y pipe for not, but have a th400 going in, and put a th400 bmr crossmember with tq arm relocation in the car, so the bmr arm is a stock style, mounting in a near stock location. the y was made to fit around a chassis mounted spohn unit, and it fits around that, the only thing I don't know if will fit is the driveshaft loop, but we will modify it as needed when the swap gets done in a couple weeks.

 

If it matter's I run the Spohn Tranny mount TA. The stock piece is junk compared to it. I did not notice any additional noise and i run it at -1. I do plan on relocating the mount off the tranny though. BMR and Yank make relocation braces for about $250. Plus it will clear any exhaust you have.

I know a lot of big dogs out there run stockers, but I would do it again. The car hooks up pretty damn good and the weight transfer feels more solid.

Broken tailshafts aren't cool either. Although a stock arm would break before the tailshaft evere did.

 

i swapped mine when i did the 9in just figured it was time since it was all apart on the lift