Kenny H

First off, I want to discuss the correction factor.

The conditions:
Temp: 72.51
in-Hg: 28.94
Humidity: 34%
STD: 1.04

My car made 306 rwhp & 330 lb/ft of torque using a correction factor of 1.04.

I plugged those values into a website http://www.csgnetwork.com/relhumhpcalc.html

and I get a correction factor of 1.018. By my calculations with no correction factor at all I would have made 294 rwho & 317 lb/ft of torque.

Given the correction factor as determined on the website I've provided of 1.018 my car actually put down 299 hp & 322 lb/ft.

However I looked online and this dyno was done in Fort Mill SC with an elevation of 670 feet. When I enter the elevation to the calculator the correction factor becomes 1.047 which would make sense as thats the same 1.04 as my dyno sheet indicates.

However the barometer and humidity both look too low. I don't think even with thunderstorms its possible to have a barometer that low and 34% humidity is not indicative of a cloudy/rainy/overcast day.

I found a website that gives me a history of weather conditions:

http://www.wunderground.com/weathers...r=2008&month=4

17:01 65.5 °F / 18.6 °C 53.0 °F / 11.7 °C 29.65in / 1003.9hPa Calm 6mph / 9.7km/h 64% 0.00in / 0.0mm

I'm using the weather conditions as of 5:01pm as thats right when I dynoed.

I would assume the humidiy and barometer should be close to the same inside the shop and outside so I'm using those factors from the weather website however I'm using the temperature from the dyno weather station as the dyno was inside and it was a bit warmer inside than outside. Using these values I come up with a correction factor of 1.028. Using what my numbers would have been if they were uncorrected of 294/317 calculate rwhp to be 302 and torque to be 326 lb/ft.

Thoughts??

And yes I realize its only a dyno number. I just want an accurate baseline to go along with my baseline ET....

jimmyjank

iTrader: (1)

call the weather channel...

seems like a respectable stock number...give or take the barometric pressure.

LSWONGTO

iTrader: (3)

Yeah thats not bad at all bro, you should do a lid and longtubes.That will make nice difference.Hey jimmy jank what part of delaware ru from. I,m here in dover.

2MCHPWR

iTrader: (10)

sounds on target to me. my '99 made 290 hp and 310 tq stock and ran 12.93 @ 107.7.
your auto absorbs more power but you got better heads and diff cam. the 330 tq sounds a little high I guess; was it a spike? due to tranny? where's the graph?
sounds like you got a great running car dude.

Kenny H

The torque curve is incredibly flat. Its at 325+ lb ft from 4000 right to 4750. Peak horsepower came in at 5400 and then power drops off from there. By 5700 horsepower dipped into the 290s and torque is below 275 lb/ft.

The '02s have a smaller cam and it definately shows on the dyno. Keep in mind this all makes sense when you consider the car ran a nice ET but didn't run a lot of MPH.

I do have a lid w/ K&N, smooth bellow, underdrive pulley, and pace setter headers w/ catted TSP Y -pipe ready to go on the car. I need to order an electric cut-out and my shop will port my throttle body and get it tuned. I'm hoping those mods liven the car up a bit....

jimmyjank

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the wilmington/newark area.

Those mods you listed should wake it up nicely,Have you thought about
a stall?

My 02 has a decent torque curve,As you said our cams are a bit undersized.

I just got my mods done a week or two ago,and it's a whole different animal.

I'd have to say the stall is a huge part of that.

Kenny H

I'm extremely undecided on the stall. I had an fbody previously and ran a Vig 2800, a Yank 4200 thruster, and 3400 TCS (out of business now I think).

The Vig 2800 I really liked, I cut 1.64s with it on a stock supension w/ ET Streets, it was very drivable, and the tranny lasted 60k miles behind it. The only real downside was it had some dead spots, nailing it at 40 MPH was pathetic.

The Yank 4200 was a beast. It hit much harder from a 40 MPH roll but most of the time it just caused too much wheel spin. The track had to be prepped perfectly for it to hook, which it never really did dead hook. On the street even with ET Streets it would spin right through 1st gear from a slow roll. Streetability was ok, not horrible though.

The TCS 3400 was a nice mix of the too. It was very streetable etc.

This car will likely be lowered, it will not be set-up for drag racing. I will run a MT or Hoosier drag radial but not a full slick. Although I will likely drive it no more than 3k a year I want to be able to drive it from NC to NJ and back without thinking twice about it.

Yanks seem to be harder on trannies for whatever reason. The big yanks are not an option for me. I'm leaning towards a smaller Vig 2800 at this point. Everyone picks on the smaller convertors but they work well and tend to be a tad more efficient.

What are your impressions of your yank?

jimmyjank

iTrader: (1)

my early opinion on the yank is it's got good street manners,but does help with the torque when I hit it.

I had several people trying to convince me to go for a larger converter,
The 3000 suits me fine.

I can certainly appreciate going for the smaller stall.

It would be a nice addition to your current mod selections.

ta_06374

iTrader: (7)

What was your mph, 60'? Damn those 02's

WS6TransAm01

iTrader: (13)

Stop calculating and start racing you homo!

Remember over the phone I guessed 294HP looks like I was sort off right lol

Kenny H

MPH was 105.8 and short time was 1.92. These was on 245-50-16 Goodyear GSCs, car has 3.23s.

Kenny H

Just used those links to figure out the DA when I ran the 12.95....

It was +10 which is about as good as its going to get in NC at a track thats a bit above see level.