Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

i went 4:10 with no over drive

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Well my rear is shipping later today, so I may have a weekend project.

I am still a little surprised about the whole gear change though. I mean 3.73's are very common. Strange even said they ain't using them in the 9" either.

Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

Thats cool how long did it take to build?

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

just spilled over the 3rd week.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Showed up today

I'm gonna put it in Monday along w/ the new crossmember and change the spark plugs.

Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

Sweet

02SCVette

iTrader: (3)

Rear arrived Friday and goes in tomorrow.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Thats weird. We run the 3.70's in a few 9" rears and they are dead silent.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Well we got it all in, thanks again Mike/Scott.

Got stumped on a couple things. Had to figure out how to move the E-brake assembly over, which now that I know is easy. Also the U-joint they gave me for the driveshaft did not fit. It's the right one for the typical F-body shaft but I got a 3.5" Lingenphelter one that actually has a slightly smaller cap. But I picked one up from CAP and pressed it. The U-joint made a funny squeeking sound, but it went away after a drive up and down the street.

The crossmember I got moves the TA mount point down almost 2in. The Driveshaft has a +2* angle and the pinion has a -2*. I dunno if I am running a 0* pinion angle or a -4*, if anybody knows let me know.

Also my BMR driveshaft loop no longer fits, the lower mounting point on the TA causes the arm to hit the loop. So now I gotta shim down the loop about 1" to clear everything and buy some longer bolts. I think I need to tweak my exhaust too because it might be tapping something under the car, or it might just be vibration from the floor mounted torque arm.

I'm just going through the breakin procedures now. It took us longer than expecting between painting it and messsing with the U-joint a few times. But, this rear looks a lot beefier than the old one. Oh and the gears are actually 3.91's.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Is there any way to move the tq arm up? Because moving it down changes the instant center, which may help, or could hurt.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

nope it looks like this



I know BMR makes one with adjustable points but it's probably not much higher. I always thought higher was better too. Like I said it's a good 2" lower than stock.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I have the bmr one, and I can go all the way down to hitting the bmr loop, right up to the floorboard with it.

Rear control arms and tq arm angle decide on the instant center, if you find the car not acting right off the line at the track I'd look into this. You may be able to get away with just changing the control arm angle with the relocation brackets to get the instant center back, but moving the arm down like that may also help your car too I don't know, every car is different.

Try it first.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, yeah it did concern me. Yank says it's the optimal location and if you look at something like the BMR track pack it is higher than where that mount goes. I don't have relocation bracket's yet either. I bought the Yank because it was $100 cheaper than the BMR.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

eeh, 100 bucks... I dunno. Is it worth it, yes and no. Definately the right move getting it off the tranny, that's all I know.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

You moved the instant center towards the back so it should hook better. No big deal,you'll see how it works on the street/track. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Slowhawk, yeah I'll give it a shot 1st. I wanna get some relocation brackets anyways so maybe I will try that as well.

How do you guys figure I should try to shim down the loop? I was thinking like some kind of bolt sleeve between the mount and the floor, I need about 1".

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

The problem I see with shimming the loop down is that the shaft will probly hit it with the suspension loaded which is worse than the torque arm hitting. I would just cut that section out and reweld some metal plates around it to clear. OR get a lakewood driveshaft loop.

I would also recommend the relocation brackets ASAP. I ussually get them and weld them on the rears before they get painted/installed.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

I didn't even think of that, good point. I got a buddy who is a welder, I'll see if he can cut and maybe dip down the right half 2" for me.

I should have gotten that BMR crossmember

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

JL, do you know how to correctly calculate my pinion angle, I've found about a half dozen different ways LOL.

DannoWS6

iTrader: (5)

BMR says it's -4, So I guess I need to tone it back a bit.

Figure I'd share that the rear already has a mild whine to it from 40-60mph. But right now only when I am very light on the throttle (cruising). If I let off or give it a bit more it quiets up. I probably got 80 miles on it so far. If it doesn't get any worse I guess it's tolerable, maybe the pinion angle adjustment will help?

Strange says not to worry about it.

So far I am not a big fan of the tranny mount crossmember, I get banging/clunking sounds when I hit a little bump or on a normal 1-2 shift, on decel it shakes the console. I'm also hoping that pinion angle will help. I might put the rubber tranny mount back in to see if that helps.

I'm glad I don't drive the car a whole lot, the thing really eats the gas on the hwy now lol.