View Poll Results: Which rear for my car?
Voters: 50. You may not vote on this poll
12 bolt rear
#1
12 bolt rear
A follow up from this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-members/842469-need-decide-rear-end-opinion-s.html
I'm still up in the air...
Moser 12 bolt or Strange 12 bolt. In these specific configurations.
Moser:
33 spline
True-Trac
4 channel all the extras, (cover, lcs brackets, etc)
Pros:
Can get it shipped in a couple days.
Tru-Trac is getting rave reviews.
Cons:
Torque Arm mounting sucks
Gotta press yoke and axle bearings on, and mount swaybar (assembly)
Strange:
33 spline
Eaton HD posi
4 channel all the extras, (cover, lcs brackets, etc)
Pros:
Bolt in install.
No Torque Arm mount issues.
Con's:
slightly pricier.
Takes 3 weeks to ship (probably means parts are harder to get)
So the big thing it comes down to for me is the True-Trac or Eaton posi.
Tru-Trac is strong and doesn't have to be serviced, but if it breaks you gotta buy a whole new $500 unit. The Eaton posi of course is rebuildable, but is it as strong as the True-Trac? I cannot get a True-Trac in a Strange w/ 33 splie axles, that is why I am limited to the above 2 choices. I can go to a lower spline (think it's 30) and get the Tru-Trac in the Strange.
Money wise it's the same, about 3 grand so I wanna just do it once and right. The main thing that keeps me away from the Moser is all the extra stuff you gotta assemble and hidden costs. So what would you guys do if limited to these 2 choices. I am at a 50/50 split, it seems like everybody ends up getting Moser stuff.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-members/842469-need-decide-rear-end-opinion-s.html
I'm still up in the air...
Moser 12 bolt or Strange 12 bolt. In these specific configurations.
Moser:
33 spline
True-Trac
4 channel all the extras, (cover, lcs brackets, etc)
Pros:
Can get it shipped in a couple days.
Tru-Trac is getting rave reviews.
Cons:
Torque Arm mounting sucks
Gotta press yoke and axle bearings on, and mount swaybar (assembly)
Strange:
33 spline
Eaton HD posi
4 channel all the extras, (cover, lcs brackets, etc)
Pros:
Bolt in install.
No Torque Arm mount issues.
Con's:
slightly pricier.
Takes 3 weeks to ship (probably means parts are harder to get)
So the big thing it comes down to for me is the True-Trac or Eaton posi.
Tru-Trac is strong and doesn't have to be serviced, but if it breaks you gotta buy a whole new $500 unit. The Eaton posi of course is rebuildable, but is it as strong as the True-Trac? I cannot get a True-Trac in a Strange w/ 33 splie axles, that is why I am limited to the above 2 choices. I can go to a lower spline (think it's 30) and get the Tru-Trac in the Strange.
Money wise it's the same, about 3 grand so I wanna just do it once and right. The main thing that keeps me away from the Moser is all the extra stuff you gotta assemble and hidden costs. So what would you guys do if limited to these 2 choices. I am at a 50/50 split, it seems like everybody ends up getting Moser stuff.
#2
Building the Moser is no big deal and while your at it check the gear pattern.The torque arm bolts suck ***,,,period.I do tack welds on the bolts now.Only way you can garrenty them staying there.
I like the Strange unit more.
I like the Strange unit more.
#7
I'd go with the Strange also. Fwiw, I ordered Axles, bearings, spacers, studs, etc from Strange two weeks ago and it only took three days to my door. It may take three weeks to get the complete rear end, but it seems like they have all the parts in stock.
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#8
Good to know, thanks for the info
#11
Rumor has it some guys did put in the true-trac on the strange 12 bolt w/ 33 splines. The problem is Strange splines are cut at a differnet degree than moser, if you put the true-trac in you get a lot of slop, altough it can be done, just not from Strange and I would assume not recommended.
I think a 9" is overkill for my car and I am limited to a 31 spline axle (which might be fine). Every body says if auto then get a 12 bolt. If I had a stick 9" all the way.
#12
As far as then 2nd moser Con, its not an issue if you get a good DS now with the yoke that matches be it steel like mine or PST sells a HD aluminum. Bearings are not an issue if you have the backing plates ready and I am sure Dez can press them in like 10 minutes.
I would say the biggest issue with the rear would be the TQ arm mount. Now I havent had an issue. I cut down the 1st set of holes off my BMR tq arm and never had an issue with the bolt coming out. other have.
As for the cons of the Strange I wouldnt let that sway you neither.
As for the diff, i have broken an ORIGNAL Tru trac NOT a Eaton "updated" unit. BUT once you decide the axles are cut differently from the units, so if you blow one and want to change, your talking around 1,000+ fix, not considering a gear change or anything. Mostly parts (tru trac is actually 600), install kit and new axles + labor.
I am on my 2nd tru trac, its been flawless.
I would say the biggest issue with the rear would be the TQ arm mount. Now I havent had an issue. I cut down the 1st set of holes off my BMR tq arm and never had an issue with the bolt coming out. other have.
As for the cons of the Strange I wouldnt let that sway you neither.
As for the diff, i have broken an ORIGNAL Tru trac NOT a Eaton "updated" unit. BUT once you decide the axles are cut differently from the units, so if you blow one and want to change, your talking around 1,000+ fix, not considering a gear change or anything. Mostly parts (tru trac is actually 600), install kit and new axles + labor.
I am on my 2nd tru trac, its been flawless.
#13
My spool really isn't that bad on the street, actually for some reason I like it. I was trying to decide between a Strange 12 bolt and a Moser 9". I ended up with the 9" with a spool and 31 spline axles. If you have to get a 12 bolt, I would get the Strange. SJM has pretty good prices on them btw.
#14
I wouldsn't buy one of those tru trac things for anything, the axles are differnet, and you can't even go and put a regular diff in the rear without changing the axles.
Whatever you go with, wether it be a strange or a moser, go with a regular eaton posi, they are rebuildable and you can swap a spool in with no problems.
Strange is nice because of the bolts being stock style, the moser, much like slowhawk said, you have to tack weld them on if you want them to stay. If you have access toa welder, it's not a huge deal you just do it when you are put the tq arm on the first time and call it a day, and they can be cut off if need be later.
Whatever you go with, wether it be a strange or a moser, go with a regular eaton posi, they are rebuildable and you can swap a spool in with no problems.
Strange is nice because of the bolts being stock style, the moser, much like slowhawk said, you have to tack weld them on if you want them to stay. If you have access toa welder, it's not a huge deal you just do it when you are put the tq arm on the first time and call it a day, and they can be cut off if need be later.
#15
My spool really isn't that bad on the street, actually for some reason I like it. I was trying to decide between a Strange 12 bolt and a Moser 9". I ended up with the 9" with a spool and 31 spline axles. If you have to get a 12 bolt, I would get the Strange. SJM has pretty good prices on them btw.
I was thinking about a 9", but keep coming back to the 12. Especially seeing plenty of guys hitting single digits with em' which I probably won't get close to. I would like to cut some sub 1.5's though
#16
I wouldsn't buy one of those tru trac things for anything, the axles are differnet, and you can't even go and put a regular diff in the rear without changing the axles.
Whatever you go with, wether it be a strange or a moser, go with a regular eaton posi, they are rebuildable and you can swap a spool in with no problems.
Strange is nice because of the bolts being stock style, the moser, much like slowhawk said, you have to tack weld them on if you want them to stay. If you have access toa welder, it's not a huge deal you just do it when you are put the tq arm on the first time and call it a day, and they can be cut off if need be later.
Whatever you go with, wether it be a strange or a moser, go with a regular eaton posi, they are rebuildable and you can swap a spool in with no problems.
Strange is nice because of the bolts being stock style, the moser, much like slowhawk said, you have to tack weld them on if you want them to stay. If you have access toa welder, it's not a huge deal you just do it when you are put the tq arm on the first time and call it a day, and they can be cut off if need be later.
I guess I could save a couple hundred too if Strange will let me ship em' my backing plates.
#17
Hell get them to send you the rear without the axles installed, then you can just have the bearings pressed on after you get your stock ones off, and that's that.
fwiw I've gone 1.35 on my moser 12 bolt, with the eaton posu @ 3500 lbs, and when it came apart this winter everything was prefect. Guy I sold the posi unit to says it's perfect in his car, gears even looked great, and he installed them and said they weren't even that loud, which I kind of found hard ot believe, but hey, anything's possible I guess.
I was leaving on the transbrake too, right off full throttle.
With you footbraking the car, I would venture to guess you have the best luck leaving right about off idle, but the driveline is still tight at that point cause teh car's in gear, you're not shocking anything at all, so a 12 bolt will probably hold up for you well past where you will ever take the car, unless you go to a manual, make triple the power you do now, or do nothing but race it.
Only reason I could see for you to go anything other then 12 bolt is if you wanted a narrowed rear with a fab housing, alum center section and all LW stuff to get the lightest rear possible, but that's really race only type stuff and I don't think too many guys that build those would reccommend one for a street car, just no real need for it.
fwiw I've gone 1.35 on my moser 12 bolt, with the eaton posu @ 3500 lbs, and when it came apart this winter everything was prefect. Guy I sold the posi unit to says it's perfect in his car, gears even looked great, and he installed them and said they weren't even that loud, which I kind of found hard ot believe, but hey, anything's possible I guess.
I was leaving on the transbrake too, right off full throttle.
With you footbraking the car, I would venture to guess you have the best luck leaving right about off idle, but the driveline is still tight at that point cause teh car's in gear, you're not shocking anything at all, so a 12 bolt will probably hold up for you well past where you will ever take the car, unless you go to a manual, make triple the power you do now, or do nothing but race it.
Only reason I could see for you to go anything other then 12 bolt is if you wanted a narrowed rear with a fab housing, alum center section and all LW stuff to get the lightest rear possible, but that's really race only type stuff and I don't think too many guys that build those would reccommend one for a street car, just no real need for it.
#18
I think you'd have a hard time breaking an Eaton with a h/c car, even a 30 spline set up. I have a strange 12 bolt with a posi and 30 spline axles and I haven't broken anything yet. I'm changing gears pretty soon so I'll probably get a spool just for piece of mind. Lockers are noisy as hell and really ******* annoying. Get either a posi or a spool, **** a locker. I hate the way the moser bolts to the torque arm. I've seen a few of them loosen up and **** up the torque arm. If it was a stick car, nitrous car or if you had a trans brake I'd go with the spool/33 splines. For a heads & cam car, just do a posi and 30 splines.
#19
Well the car at some point will make more power, so I want some room to grow. Nothing insane, but more cubes and maybe a small shot of the go juice, but this is later down the road.
#20
Hey guys, any of you have a set of brake backing plates laying around for a 4 channel rear? I ask cause I want to send a set out to get my rear built and I don't want to loose downtime on my car.
Basically you let me use your backing plates, I send them out, when I get my new rear w/ those plates on it I take my current one's off my 10 bolt and give those to you.
Otherwise I gotta dish out the $269 for new one's or have my car sitting on a lift for a couple weeks.
I'd rather get them installed on the rear, so I have a nice easy swap. I don't want to trouble anybody but, figured I'd ask if somebody has a set just laying around.
Basically you let me use your backing plates, I send them out, when I get my new rear w/ those plates on it I take my current one's off my 10 bolt and give those to you.
Otherwise I gotta dish out the $269 for new one's or have my car sitting on a lift for a couple weeks.
I'd rather get them installed on the rear, so I have a nice easy swap. I don't want to trouble anybody but, figured I'd ask if somebody has a set just laying around.