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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 05:29 AM
  #741  
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Originally Posted by mbaker3
Mine has the LQ9 6.0L engine in it, not the LT engine. I still don't know a lot about the LS1 and LT1 engines but its a SBC and having built a bunch of 1st Gen. small blocks, I know that you can put a lot of "go fast" in them without a lot of work. Just make sure you are putting good parts in it and that 383 will be a road burner!
Trust me you would know if you had a LT they give you a case of Excedrin Migraine with your perchase.Gerat looking car you bought
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 05:32 AM
  #742  
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Originally Posted by BLINGOLE
mbaker, ill pm you for your number and ill get that exhaust on this week.
If it works for you, that will be great! You said that you wanted to get into your new shop, so there is no rush on my part, just when it is convenient for you to do. Let me know. PM me when you get the chance.
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 10:36 AM
  #743  
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Originally Posted by mbaker3
Mine has the LQ9 6.0L engine in it, not the LT engine. I still don't know a lot about the LS1 and LT1 engines but its a SBC and having built a bunch of 1st Gen. small blocks, I know that you can put a lot of "go fast" in them without a lot of work. Just make sure you are putting good parts in it and that 383 will be a road burner!
I don't know anything about the lq's
And like he said lt's come with a major headache
I haven't had much trouble from mine (knock on wood)
They're just a pain to work on

I'm using all forged parts
I found a kit online for $900
Comes with everything
They only thing im a little nervous about is the crank
It's a scat 9000
The only thing in the kit that isn't forged
Some people say it ok
Some dont
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 11:09 AM
  #744  
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Originally Posted by Cooldude5231
They only thing im a little nervous about is the crank
It's a scat 9000
The only thing in the kit that isn't forged
Some people say it ok
Some dont
I've never run a Scat 9000 but it is supposed to be good for a steet / strip engine. I don't know how much HP you are shooting for with your 383 but if you are building it to be "street friendly" the 9000 cast crank should be ok. Like any other performance engine, the best bet is to be sure you have a balanced assembly. I would think that either Scat or somewhere else on the internet should give a HP rating for it.
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #745  
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Originally Posted by 2camaros6702
Mike, if you ever want to go fast like us old folks buy those qa1's
OK so these?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HA...855P/?rtype=10

and btw im glad you said this before i bought new lower control arms because i can just rise my car a tad with these!
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 03:56 PM
  #746  
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Originally Posted by Cooldude5231
I don't know anything about the lq's
And like he said lt's come with a major headache
I haven't had much trouble from mine (knock on wood)
They're just a pain to work on

I'm using all forged parts
I found a kit online for $900
Comes with everything
They only thing im a little nervous about is the crank
It's a scat 9000
The only thing in the kit that isn't forged
Some people say it ok
Some dont
Good luck with your build.I was planning a 355 LT but with the cost and difficulty finding LT part's im going to jump ship and either gen 1 or ls
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 06:08 PM
  #747  
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Originally Posted by ALH442
im going to jump ship and either gen 1 or ls
I've got some really good Gen 1 parts if you want to go that route. 4.155 bore 2 bolt block, etc, etc. Don't want to turn this into a classified ad!
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #748  
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Originally Posted by mbaker3
I've never run a Scat 9000 but it is supposed to be good for a steet / strip engine. I don't know how much HP you are shooting for with your 383 but if you are building it to be "street friendly" the 9000 cast crank should be ok. Like any other performance engine, the best bet is to be sure you have a balanced assembly. I would think that either Scat or somewhere else on the internet should give a HP rating for it.
they say its good for up to 600 hp
this is my DD
im shootin for about 420rwhp
and everything is balanced
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #749  
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Originally Posted by ALH442
Good luck with your build.I was planning a 355 LT but with the cost and difficulty finding LT part's im going to jump ship and either gen 1 or ls
thanks!
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #750  
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Originally Posted by BLINGOLE
OK so these?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HA...855P/?rtype=10

and btw im glad you said this before i bought new lower control arms because i can just rise my car a tad with these!
You got it. Same ones I have and yes ride higth adjustable! FTW.
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Old Oct 2, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #751  
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Originally Posted by Cooldude5231
they say its good for up to 600 hp
this is my DD
im shootin for about 420rwhp
and everything is balanced
I don't know what you are running, manual or auto but a "rule of thumb" on figuring the difference from flywheel HP and RWHP is automatic trans you lose about 17% or 18% and manual trans you lose about 14% or 15%. This isn't exact by any means because there are so many things that cause HP drag getting to your wheels, but it gives you a good idea what your crank will be seeing. For example, a 500 HP engine with an auto trans would have about 415 RWHP.

Last edited by mbaker3; Oct 2, 2011 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Can't type worth a darn!!!
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #752  
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autos, actually have more loss than the 15-18%, more like 25%, I had a motor built and dyno'd, made 486hp at the crank, but with a 2600 stall and 700r4, with 3.42s a chassis dyno only produced 350rwhp.

once I get my car back together with a manual t56, it'll be back on a dyno to see what the rwhp is.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:54 PM
  #753  
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Originally Posted by mbaker3
I don't know what you are running, manual or auto but a "rule of thumb" on figuring the difference from flywheel HP and RWHP is automatic trans you lose about 17% or 18% and manual trans you lose about 14% or 15%. This isn't exact by any means because there are so many things that cause HP drag getting to your wheels, but it gives you a good idea what your crank will be seeing. For example, a 500 HP engine with an auto trans would have about 415 RWHP.
I didn't know that
But it's a good piece of info to keep in mind
I'm running a stock t56
It was rebuilt about 10k miles ago
But I'll have a stage 2 clutch and 4:10 gears with the 383

Question:
What exactly is the purpose of a 3 a valve job?
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 08:14 PM
  #754  
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Originally Posted by Bluechevyz28
autos, actually have more loss than the 15-18%, more like 25%, I had a motor built and dyno'd, made 486hp at the crank, but with a 2600 stall and 700r4, with 3.42s a chassis dyno only produced 350rwhp.
once I get my car back together with a manual t56, it'll be back on a dyno to see what the rwhp is.
That basically confirms what I was saying, "there are many things that affect HP drag getting to the wheels". It varies with the efficiency of the transmissions pump, for example. If the pump has wear, it uses more HP to create the same hydraulic pressure in the transmission. Torque converter efficiencies are different too, again, creating different losses to the wheels. HP is lost creating heat in the transmission. More heat equals more HP used that doesn't reach the rear wheels. It goes on and on how different cars have different losses to the rear wheels. I was just stating a "rule of thumb", I didn't mean to imply that it applies to all vehicles. I hope you didn't take it that way.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 08:25 PM
  #755  
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Originally Posted by Cooldude5231
Question:
What exactly is the purpose of a 3 a valve job?
It is supposed to help create a smoother air flow into the cylinder and not cause as much turbulence as a single angle cut on the valve and head. I don't have proof otherwise, but I am not sure it does a whole lot better on a street engine. Yes, I'm sure that it will be better, but at low air flow at the low RPM's attained on the street, is it worth the extra machining cost? If you are looking for that last little bit of HP, go for it!
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 08:36 PM
  #756  
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Originally Posted by mbaker3
It is supposed to help create a smoother air flow into the cylinder and not cause as much turbulence as a single angle cut on the valve and head. I don't have proof otherwise, but I am not sure it does a whole lot better on a street engine. Yes, I'm sure that it will be better, but at low air flow at the low RPM's attained on the street, is it worth the extra machining cost? If you are looking for that last little bit of HP, go for it!
Well I bought a set of heads that were ported, re machined and had the valve job
The guy never explained exactly what it was to me
But it didn't really matter to me
It would have cost me almost $300 to have mine remachined
I got these shipped to my door for $400
I was just wondering exactly what it was
Thanks!
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 04:05 AM
  #757  
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Originally Posted by Cooldude5231
I was just wondering exactly what it was
Thanks!
I read my post again and it kinda sounds like I am against them. I'm not! Anytime that you can get more HP is a good thing! I was trying to say that it's not a show stopper on a good street machine if you don't spend the money to do it. Don't forget to take pictures of your build!
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 05:29 AM
  #758  
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"Well I bought a set of heads that were ported, re machined and had the valve job"


This is where you will likely see the best gains with a LT1.What cam are you going with?

Dont forget to up the size on the injector's.The 24lb stock will not keep up with a large cam
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 12:45 PM
  #759  
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Originally Posted by ALH442
"Well I bought a set of heads that were ported, re machined and had the valve job"


This is where you will likely see the best gains with a LT1.What cam are you going with?

Dont forget to up the size on the injector's.The 24lb stock will not keep up with a large cam
Goin with a cc 306
And I know about re injectors
Going with a 32 or 36#
Not sure yet
Recommendation?
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 12:46 PM
  #760  
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Originally Posted by mbaker3
I read my post again and it kinda sounds like I am against them. I'm not! Anytime that you can get more HP is a good thing! I was trying to say that it's not a show stopper on a good street machine if you don't spend the money to do it. Don't forget to take pictures of your build!
I'm taking tons of pictures!
Just can't figure out how to upload them on here ;p
Hell I can't even post a classified add for some reason
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