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started my cam swap

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Old 08-26-2011, 12:29 PM
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when fishing early dis morning and i just caught the biggest trout mouth lifter you eveeeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr did see now to put this bitch bck together thnak you god throught you all things are possible
Old 08-26-2011, 12:30 PM
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Yeah well higher mileage motors tend to have loser trays. I had a couple that wouldn't stay put so I used the magnets. Worked like a charm.
Old 08-26-2011, 04:58 PM
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any tips for drying out the head bolt holes
Old 08-26-2011, 05:08 PM
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compressed air and alot of paper towels. Go on ls1howto.com They have a bunch of good info for head/cam swaps on f-bodys.
Old 08-26-2011, 06:39 PM
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Just read this, OP if you're gonna swap out heads, don't bother with 241's save up the $ and get the 243's. From 853 to 241's you wont see much if any gain. Not worth the effort
Old 08-26-2011, 07:56 PM
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@wooddaniel thnk i thing im gonna do that. Guess what my newbie *** did i broke one of the cam plate bolt in the block got it out tho it was my first time use a torque wrench and didnt pay attension to the clicks it suck that the only way you learn is by making mistake but im having a hell of time tho
Old 08-26-2011, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by camross998
@wooddaniel thnk i thing im gonna do that. Guess what my newbie *** did i broke one of the cam plate bolt in the block got it out tho it was my first time use a torque wrench and didnt pay attension to the clicks it suck that the only way you learn is by making mistake but im having a hell of time tho
Yeah, the first time doing **** on your own is always tough. Its easy once you've messed with them for a while. Im on my 7th Fbody lol... I can swap an intake manifold in like 10 minutes Good luck finishing it. I gained about 25 RWHP with 243 heads on my car, they are worth the $$
Old 08-26-2011, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Erik@Lashway
If you're a man, you'll give the cam a quick spin and pull her out. Lifter trays hold the lifters in place. You immediately put the other cam in. We've NEVER had a problem, but then again that's why we get paid to do it.

Erik@Lashway
just out of curiosity what do you guys charge for a cam swap and what kind of time frame does it take? I want to cam my car but I don't want to actually do it. not that I can't do it, key word there is want to. this a4-m6 swap is proving to be enough fun for me. I don't have good luck with projects like these so I would rather bring it to someone and pick it up done
Old 08-26-2011, 11:39 PM
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Don't want to Hijack...PM sent...

Good luck Alex...

PS- I was kidding about the being a MAN part...everyone got all sensitive hahahahahahaha

PS----Alex, it's a great idea to also chase the head bolt holes as well as blowing them out. What bolts are you using? ARP or TTY?
Old 08-27-2011, 08:41 AM
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@ erik Hijack away my friend you good peoples what youe mean chase the bolt hots???
Old 08-27-2011, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by camross998
what you mean chase the bolt holes???
A thread chaser has no taper and cleans the female threads without removing metal.



They're not expensive and IMO, if you work on your car a lot, they're an important addition to your tool box. I'm a professional and I have a Snap-On metric/SAE set which is more heavy duty (and probably five times as expensive) but the picture above is really all the DIY gearhead needs.

Most people have tap/die sets. You can still do it with a tap - very carefully. Make sure you go slowly as you run the tap down, use some WD40, and do not force it if the tap binds. Back it out, hit it with compressed air to clean any debris out, add lubricant, and run the tap back down until the bore is cleaned out. You don't want to remove material, you just want to make sure the threads are clean and true.

-R
Old 08-27-2011, 05:19 PM
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:24 PM
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man im almost at the end after three days of 8 hour each im can see the light got it to start after the cam and heads swap now just time to button it up and cross my finger wish me luck one thing tho i can do a cam swap in my sleep now head swap it nothing
Old 09-04-2011, 09:32 AM
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i use vacumm line oil it up send it through holds lifter fine.better to be safe then sorry.and i have a set of 241,s with golds on them .looking to get $400. for the pair came off nicks car .he put stage 3s on his.also comes with new never used arp head bolts.
Old 09-04-2011, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by littlefranks
i use vacumm line oil it up send it through holds lifter fine.better to be safe then sorry.and i have a set of 241,s with golds on them .looking to get $400. for the pair came off nicks car .he put stage 3s on his.also comes with new never used arp head bolts.
I had a set as well for a lower price and he didn't want them. He's after 243's.
Old 09-04-2011, 10:37 PM
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hey whats up choppers you good sorry we couldnt do business on them heads dude bbut you cool ppls tho
Old 09-04-2011, 10:38 PM
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ok can somebody tell me why the drive is about 1/4 inch off toward the engine what would cause that and how to fix it
Old 09-08-2011, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Erik@Lashway
Not a bad idea...but what happens one day when those wimpy *** pen magnets lose a head? Now you're pulling a head off to retieve the head of the magnet stuck to the lifter plunger...OUCH!

Even the JRP tools suck - they barely fit. Just let the trays do their job.

Erik@Lashway
This happened to me.........sucked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 09-09-2011, 07:49 AM
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i know but u learn your lesson and moved on stronger
Old 09-09-2011, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluestreak
A thread chaser has no taper and cleans the female threads without removing metal.

They're not expensive and IMO, if you work on your car a lot, they're an important addition to your tool box. I'm a professional and I have a Snap-On metric/SAE set which is more heavy duty (and probably five times as expensive) but the picture above is really all the DIY gearhead needs.

Most people have tap/die sets. You can still do it with a tap - very carefully. Make sure you go slowly as you run the tap down, use some WD40, and do not force it if the tap binds. Back it out, hit it with compressed air to clean any debris out, add lubricant, and run the tap back down until the bore is cleaned out. You don't want to remove material, you just want to make sure the threads are clean and true.

-R
I just ground down one side of the removed head bolt and it worked fine for me.


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