Lashway Motorsports
12-17-2011, 06:30 AM
#1
Lashway Motorsports Just wanted to say thanks again to Erik, Josh and everyone else over at Lashway they just got my misfire problem tracked down to a bad sensor and dynotuned the car afterwards and needless to say I'm very impressed with the way the car drives. overall the power is smoother and theres more of it haha. I know theres already a lashway thread in here but I figured one more couldnt hurt so when you guys read this, THANKS AGAIN.
Dan
Dan
12-18-2011, 05:54 PM
#2
FormerVendor
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Hey Dan, thanks a lot for the shout. We're glad we could help track that pesky misfire down. Keep an eye on that starter and let me know how it goes.
Time and time again folks leave here happy. We do our best and are real with our customers. We're not magicians or bullshit artists - just car guys who care about fellow enthusiasts - it's our business model.
Erik/Josh/Ollie
Time and time again folks leave here happy. We do our best and are real with our customers. We're not magicians or bullshit artists - just car guys who care about fellow enthusiasts - it's our business model.
Erik/Josh/Ollie
12-20-2011, 06:46 PM
#4
Josh and I knew the starter was the issue right off the bat.. a good whack to the bendix gave it its last few cranks on the dyno. 
We understand how frustrating these little gremlins (Like your crank trigger) are/were, quick diagnosis and subsequent quality repair, is what seperates the REAL LSX specialists from those shops who can't do anything but bolt on shiny wheels and superchargers. We love seeing our customers kicking *** on the track and street, and it's our pleasure servicing (and modding 
) every pride and joy ride that enters our shop. (Except you, taters... you'll have to share some Fikse love for that)
Ollie
Lashway Motorsports- Your ONE stop source for LSX performance, tuning, and fabrication.
We understand how frustrating these little gremlins (Like your crank trigger) are/were, quick diagnosis and subsequent quality repair, is what seperates the REAL LSX specialists from those shops who can't do anything but bolt on shiny wheels and superchargers. We love seeing our customers kicking *** on the track and street, and it's our pleasure servicing (and modding ) every pride and joy ride that enters our shop. (Except you, taters... you'll have to share some Fikse love for that) Ollie
Lashway Motorsports- Your ONE stop source for LSX performance, tuning, and fabrication.
Last edited by 67RSCamaroVette; 12-20-2011 at 06:55 PM.
12-21-2011, 06:28 AM
#7
Josh and I knew the starter was the issue right off the bat.. a good whack to the bendix gave it its last few cranks on the dyno. We understand how frustrating these little gremlins (Like your crank trigger) are/were, quick diagnosis and subsequent quality repair, is what seperates the REAL LSX specialists from those shops who can't do anything but bolt on shiny wheels and superchargers. We love seeing our customers kicking *** on the track and street, and it's our pleasure servicing (and modding ) every pride and joy ride that enters our shop. (Except you, taters... you'll have to share some Fikse love for that)
Ollie
Lashway Motorsports- Your ONE stop source for LSX performance, tuning, and fabrication.
We understand how frustrating these little gremlins (Like your crank trigger) are/were, quick diagnosis and subsequent quality repair, is what seperates the REAL LSX specialists from those shops who can't do anything but bolt on shiny wheels and superchargers. We love seeing our customers kicking *** on the track and street, and it's our pleasure servicing (and modding ) every pride and joy ride that enters our shop. (Except you, taters... you'll have to share some Fikse love for that) Ollie
Lashway Motorsports- Your ONE stop source for LSX performance, tuning, and fabrication.
Next on the list is either installing my fti 3600 stall I have laying around OR selling that and all of my auto parts and make the car into a 6 speed but I'm still undecided on what to do?
What do you guys think?
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12-21-2011, 07:09 AM
#8
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Depends on what you wanna do with the car. I will say that 6 speeds are more fun on the street - BUT you're looking at some coin to get there.
Install converter and it may change your mind about that auto.
PS- Sell that FTI and go with one of our units - thank me later.
http://www.lashwaymotorsports.com/la...8798ed04f891dc
Erik@Lashway
Install converter and it may change your mind about that auto.
PS- Sell that FTI and go with one of our units - thank me later.
http://www.lashwaymotorsports.com/la...8798ed04f891dc
Erik@Lashway
12-21-2011, 07:22 AM
#9
I think thats what I'm going to do if i really want a m6 afterwards I can always do the swap.
Erik if I was buying a converter brand new I would have no issue looking into you all as it looks like a great product but for the price I paid for the fti used and after being gone over by Greg to make sure its all ok I'm still at about half the cost of a new converter I got lucky finding the deal on the fti lol.
Erik if I was buying a converter brand new I would have no issue looking into you all as it looks like a great product but for the price I paid for the fti used and after being gone over by Greg to make sure its all ok I'm still at about half the cost of a new converter I got lucky finding the deal on the fti lol.
12-21-2011, 08:59 AM
#10
You can enjoy the fikses today while my tune gets done. Also wanna take to you ollie about getting my cme done, maybe you can help me out with that later. And the iforged would look sick on that black trans am
12-21-2011, 09:56 AM
#12
I asked josh that same thing the other day when I was there even though I would probably do the actual swap myself I was curious on prices for parts. We figured about 700-800 for a core t56 then a 1k rebuild plus the $700 for a clutch $60 for pedals, $250 for master and slave. Plus there would be some other little things in there. If i was going to do it I would probably try to get a good used t56 but there is still the matter of a good clutch and hydraulics system
12-21-2011, 12:01 PM
#13
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I just think its retarded how people are asking 1000 dollars for bad t56 I would love one but refuse to pay that price for the trans. Ill stick to the 60e till she blows.
12-21-2011, 09:54 PM
#14
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I think thats what I'm going to do if i really want a m6 afterwards I can always do the swap.
Erik if I was buying a converter brand new I would have no issue looking into you all as it looks like a great product but for the price I paid for the fti used and after being gone over by Greg to make sure its all ok I'm still at about half the cost of a new converter I got lucky finding the deal on the fti lol.
Erik if I was buying a converter brand new I would have no issue looking into you all as it looks like a great product but for the price I paid for the fti used and after being gone over by Greg to make sure its all ok I'm still at about half the cost of a new converter I got lucky finding the deal on the fti lol.
No worries...FTI is well known and apparently good stuff!
12-21-2011, 11:47 PM
#16
12-22-2011, 10:47 AM
#17
What you'll need for a T56 swap (as I've done a few of your guys's)
Pedals
Pedal clips
T56 Crossmember
Torque arm mount M6 (most people forget these)
Poly tranny mount
clutch
slave
master, line
u-bolt for master cyl
Pilot bearing
Flywheel bolts
M6 center console, shifter
pigtail for reverse light switch
assorted wire, crimp terminals,
pigtail for reverse lockout (optional)
capability to flash a M6 tune into PCM
Pedals
Pedal clips
T56 Crossmember
Torque arm mount M6 (most people forget these)
Poly tranny mount
clutch
slave
master, line
u-bolt for master cyl
Pilot bearing
Flywheel bolts
M6 center console, shifter
pigtail for reverse light switch
assorted wire, crimp terminals,
pigtail for reverse lockout (optional)
capability to flash a M6 tune into PCM
12-23-2011, 05:41 AM
#19
What you'll need for a T56 swap (as I've done a few of your guys's)
Pedals
Pedal clips
T56 Crossmember
Torque arm mount M6 (most people forget these)
Poly tranny mount
clutch
slave
master, line
u-bolt for master cyl
Pilot bearing
Flywheel bolts
M6 center console, shifter
pigtail for reverse light switch
assorted wire, crimp terminals,
pigtail for reverse lockout (optional)
capability to flash a M6 tune into PCM
Pedals
Pedal clips
T56 Crossmember
Torque arm mount M6 (most people forget these)
Poly tranny mount
clutch
slave
master, line
u-bolt for master cyl
Pilot bearing
Flywheel bolts
M6 center console, shifter
pigtail for reverse light switch
assorted wire, crimp terminals,
pigtail for reverse lockout (optional)
capability to flash a M6 tune into PCM
The first is cruise control. I would be using the existing a4 harness and just modifying it as needed for the m6. Will the cruise control function just fine without any changes to the pcm harness and tune? Obviously the tune will be flashed for an m6 but will the cruise control still function without any modification? I'm also aware that I will need to extend the cruise interrupt switch wire from the brake pedal to the clutch pedal so that the cruise will disengage when the brake or clutch is depressed.
The only other thing I'm unsure of is how you all hookup reverse lockout. I've seen t done either by just grounding the one side of the solenoid and then hook the hot side up to the brake pedal so that when the pedal is depressed the lockout opens. Or I believe the tan wire on pin 42 iirc of the pcm that used to control tcc lockup can be switched to pin 44 and then the red power wire for the auto can both be used to control l;ockout once the m6 tune is flashed in.
Thanks for the help ollie
