My Engine Committed Suicide Yesterday - RIP
05-20-2010, 06:32 PM
#161
While I was typing out my response for today I noticed that the tags associated with my thread are: clunk, engine, enginge, formula, hit, mtm, puddle, reason, rod, smithton, stall, tetris, throw, worth. Tetris, really?
I came home from work today to find a box on my balcony from Vengeance Racing. I was kind of expecting this to be one of the first boxes that would come in because distance wise they aren't that far away. I carried it inside, tore into it, and found all of the goodies I ordered.
- NOS5177 front half, purge, and wiring
- OEM LS1 Fuel Rail
- RevXtreme 100mm cable driven throttle body.
I snapped some pictures of these parts along with my Fast 90, PTM 90mm TB that I received yesterday, and a couple comparison shots of the TBs.
Fast 90 Intake / PTM 90mm TB:
Vengeance Goodies Box:
You can't see most of it, but it took me a while to untangle this wiring jumble.
Here's a few shots of the throttle bodies for comparison. The PTM 90mm is on the left and the RevXtreme 100mm is on the right:
Here is the PTM 90mm TB on the FAST intake manifold to show basic fitment:
Here is the RevXtreme, 100mm TB on there roughly:
Ron at Vengeance Racing posted a thread a while ago on what it took to mount the 100mm TB to a FAST Intake manifold. That's going to be my guide for doing the TB throat work and blending. I'm going to try and give them a call sometime soon to order some new gaskets for this thing too.
After I played around with all of my new parts I decided to try and get somethings ordered before 5pm where most places close down. Last night I did some fueling calculations and figured that my 42 lb / hr Ford green top injectors were going to be inadequate for my fueling goals. I found a set of Bosch 4 style 60 lb / hr injectors for a good price, but they were out of stock. I sent Jon at FIC injectors a PM asking him if they were indeed out of stock of if it just hadn't been changed back. He sent me a reply about an hour later saying that they have them back in stock.
With that in mind I wanted to go over a couple things before ordering them so I gave them a call and I am glad that I did. Jon told me with these being a brand new injector the information on the offset and dead times aren't really out there. We collectively decided on a set of flow match Siemens Deka 60lb / hr EV1 injectors. They only cost a little more, don't require injector adapter harnesses, all of the information on the injector's performance are readily available, they're a drop in replacement, and will provide me with some future growing space. They actually flow right around 78 lbs / hr of fuel at 58psi. FIC is also in the awesome group of businesses that uses paypal so I don't have to deal with my debit card constantly declining. He sent me a paypal bill and I sent him the money right away. Jon at FIC gets a big
With it closing in on 5pm really quickly I decided to give SDPC another call. I found that my transaction finally went through on my checking account, but it was less than what I had originally expected it to be. Sure enough we went through the list of everything on there and it was all listed. I can't complain about that. I'll just have to spend the money on other parts which I am sure I won't have an issue with.
Tim is also working on figuring out a few other things for me so I can order some odd missing parts that I am dealing with. The one thing holding me back from starting to work on my car is the lack of a proper BCM. I simply no longer have one in the car. I want to buy a new one with the proper VATs values so I won't have to have new keys cut. I just had two sets cut not too long ago after someone broke into my friend's old shop and stole all of the keys. I didn't my key money to go to waste, not have VATs, or have to pay for a starter tune where I get the VATs codes turned off.
Beyond that I am just waiting for parts to show up, searching for more parts, and reading as much as I can about the things that I'll be doing. I already received shipping confirmation, tracking numbers from Spohn and WS6Store for the items I bought yesterday. I got another update from Brian at BLS about him being able to ship the HID setup pretty soon too. I'm still waiting on a couple items from members; headers and new laptop. I am also on the hunt for some specific items that I will be buying through the parts for sale section.
- Ebony dashboard, pad, center console, door panels, t top a pillar covers, blue interior bulb parts, and one other thing. I'll keep searching on here, but if anyone has these items for a good price let me know and we might be able to work something out.
Once I can get a the proper BCM, battery relocation kit, gauges, and interior panels I can pretty much do everything I need to do to the car short of assembling the engine and installing it. The car will once again have power, new interior panels, new gears, suspension parts, fuel pumps, and gauges all installed. I will be putting together another items for sale thread shortly once I get the tools I ordered from Speed Inc. I just need to be able to pull and install a new set of valve springs on my Dart heads. I'll see what else shows up tomorrow.
I came home from work today to find a box on my balcony from Vengeance Racing. I was kind of expecting this to be one of the first boxes that would come in because distance wise they aren't that far away. I carried it inside, tore into it, and found all of the goodies I ordered.
- NOS5177 front half, purge, and wiring
- OEM LS1 Fuel Rail
- RevXtreme 100mm cable driven throttle body.
I snapped some pictures of these parts along with my Fast 90, PTM 90mm TB that I received yesterday, and a couple comparison shots of the TBs.
Fast 90 Intake / PTM 90mm TB:
Vengeance Goodies Box:
You can't see most of it, but it took me a while to untangle this wiring jumble.
Here's a few shots of the throttle bodies for comparison. The PTM 90mm is on the left and the RevXtreme 100mm is on the right:
Here is the PTM 90mm TB on the FAST intake manifold to show basic fitment:
Here is the RevXtreme, 100mm TB on there roughly:
Ron at Vengeance Racing posted a thread a while ago on what it took to mount the 100mm TB to a FAST Intake manifold. That's going to be my guide for doing the TB throat work and blending. I'm going to try and give them a call sometime soon to order some new gaskets for this thing too.
After I played around with all of my new parts I decided to try and get somethings ordered before 5pm where most places close down. Last night I did some fueling calculations and figured that my 42 lb / hr Ford green top injectors were going to be inadequate for my fueling goals. I found a set of Bosch 4 style 60 lb / hr injectors for a good price, but they were out of stock. I sent Jon at FIC injectors a PM asking him if they were indeed out of stock of if it just hadn't been changed back. He sent me a reply about an hour later saying that they have them back in stock.
With that in mind I wanted to go over a couple things before ordering them so I gave them a call and I am glad that I did. Jon told me with these being a brand new injector the information on the offset and dead times aren't really out there. We collectively decided on a set of flow match Siemens Deka 60lb / hr EV1 injectors. They only cost a little more, don't require injector adapter harnesses, all of the information on the injector's performance are readily available, they're a drop in replacement, and will provide me with some future growing space. They actually flow right around 78 lbs / hr of fuel at 58psi. FIC is also in the awesome group of businesses that uses paypal so I don't have to deal with my debit card constantly declining. He sent me a paypal bill and I sent him the money right away. Jon at FIC gets a big
With it closing in on 5pm really quickly I decided to give SDPC another call. I found that my transaction finally went through on my checking account, but it was less than what I had originally expected it to be. Sure enough we went through the list of everything on there and it was all listed. I can't complain about that. I'll just have to spend the money on other parts which I am sure I won't have an issue with.
Tim is also working on figuring out a few other things for me so I can order some odd missing parts that I am dealing with. The one thing holding me back from starting to work on my car is the lack of a proper BCM. I simply no longer have one in the car. I want to buy a new one with the proper VATs values so I won't have to have new keys cut. I just had two sets cut not too long ago after someone broke into my friend's old shop and stole all of the keys. I didn't my key money to go to waste, not have VATs, or have to pay for a starter tune where I get the VATs codes turned off.
Beyond that I am just waiting for parts to show up, searching for more parts, and reading as much as I can about the things that I'll be doing. I already received shipping confirmation, tracking numbers from Spohn and WS6Store for the items I bought yesterday. I got another update from Brian at BLS about him being able to ship the HID setup pretty soon too. I'm still waiting on a couple items from members; headers and new laptop. I am also on the hunt for some specific items that I will be buying through the parts for sale section.
- Ebony dashboard, pad, center console, door panels, t top a pillar covers, blue interior bulb parts, and one other thing. I'll keep searching on here, but if anyone has these items for a good price let me know and we might be able to work something out.
Once I can get a the proper BCM, battery relocation kit, gauges, and interior panels I can pretty much do everything I need to do to the car short of assembling the engine and installing it. The car will once again have power, new interior panels, new gears, suspension parts, fuel pumps, and gauges all installed. I will be putting together another items for sale thread shortly once I get the tools I ordered from Speed Inc. I just need to be able to pull and install a new set of valve springs on my Dart heads. I'll see what else shows up tomorrow.
05-22-2010, 07:39 PM
#162
Yesterday = 5-21-10
I gave John at SDPC another call to order a couple more things and ask some questions. He's been by far the largest help in general, tracking down parts for me, and answering all of my specific questions. I sent Tim at SDPC an email with some questions that he forwarded to John. John answered the easier ones and is figuring out a couple of the more complicated ones, but in the mean time he's starting to collect parts for my next order. Here's what will be in the next shipment of parts from SDPC:
Next Shipment:
- Ram Aluminum Flywheel
- Proper VIN matching BCM
- New oil level sending unit
- Timing chain damper
- Hopefully, the missing bolt from my front cover, cam sensor, bracket, and wiring
I am really excited about getting the proper BCM back in my car. It is the one thing that is stopping me from starting to work on the car. I can't exactly test out my new wiring if I have no power for the car. Once the BCM comes in it is time to start repinning the harness, wiring gauges, fuel pumps, and nitrous components. Then, installing the new gears, LCAs, APHR, and finally assembling the engine. It seems so easy listing it out, but I already know it won't be and I am going to have a bafuckingzillion questions.
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Today = 5-22-10
I got home from work around 3:30pm and didn't have any boxes sitting at the house. I was thinking that I wasn't going to get anything today, but right around 5:30ish the FedEx guy showed up as I was fixing my stairs with a large box. I told him to be prepared because there is going to be a lot of them coming soon.
I looked at the label and saw it was from SDPC. I obviously knew it was going to be my random fasteners and clutch components. Of course:
and...
I didn't know the RST Street twin came with it's own alignment tool or I wouldn't have bought one. Oh well, at least it was only around $6. The directions for installing this thing are all on one page and consist of about 6 steps if I remember correctly. I already know I am going to have questions about getting this thing setup correctly.
I am still waiting on parts and I should have a lot of things show up on Monday. I know the stuff from Spohn and WS6Store should show up then. I hope some of the stuff from Speed Inc does as well. I am still waiting on a couple things from members also. One sent me a PM and apologized for the delay. The other I need to get in contact with if nothing shows up on Monday.
In the mean time I am just doing as much reading on subjects pertinent to me reassembling my car and searching for parts in the for sale section.
I gave John at SDPC another call to order a couple more things and ask some questions. He's been by far the largest help in general, tracking down parts for me, and answering all of my specific questions. I sent Tim at SDPC an email with some questions that he forwarded to John. John answered the easier ones and is figuring out a couple of the more complicated ones, but in the mean time he's starting to collect parts for my next order. Here's what will be in the next shipment of parts from SDPC:
Next Shipment:
- Ram Aluminum Flywheel
- Proper VIN matching BCM
- New oil level sending unit
- Timing chain damper
- Hopefully, the missing bolt from my front cover, cam sensor, bracket, and wiring
I am really excited about getting the proper BCM back in my car. It is the one thing that is stopping me from starting to work on the car. I can't exactly test out my new wiring if I have no power for the car. Once the BCM comes in it is time to start repinning the harness, wiring gauges, fuel pumps, and nitrous components. Then, installing the new gears, LCAs, APHR, and finally assembling the engine. It seems so easy listing it out, but I already know it won't be and I am going to have a bafuckingzillion questions.
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Today = 5-22-10
I got home from work around 3:30pm and didn't have any boxes sitting at the house. I was thinking that I wasn't going to get anything today, but right around 5:30ish the FedEx guy showed up as I was fixing my stairs with a large box. I told him to be prepared because there is going to be a lot of them coming soon.
I looked at the label and saw it was from SDPC. I obviously knew it was going to be my random fasteners and clutch components. Of course:
and...
I didn't know the RST Street twin came with it's own alignment tool or I wouldn't have bought one. Oh well, at least it was only around $6. The directions for installing this thing are all on one page and consist of about 6 steps if I remember correctly. I already know I am going to have questions about getting this thing setup correctly.
I am still waiting on parts and I should have a lot of things show up on Monday. I know the stuff from Spohn and WS6Store should show up then. I hope some of the stuff from Speed Inc does as well. I am still waiting on a couple things from members also. One sent me a PM and apologized for the delay. The other I need to get in contact with if nothing shows up on Monday.
In the mean time I am just doing as much reading on subjects pertinent to me reassembling my car and searching for parts in the for sale section.
05-24-2010, 07:21 PM
#163
I was expecting to receive quite a few boxes of parts today and I was not dissapointed. Most of my parts from Speed Inc came in today, along with my injectors from FIC, and del sphere components from Spohn. It has become a habit for me to get up, open the door, and look down the steps to see if anything has arrived. Today, I found 3 large boxes down there. The UPS guy has given up on carrying them up the steps and I don't blame him because one of the boxes was 63 lbs.
Speed Inc. Parts:
ARP wheel studs, header studs, balancer bolt, and rod bolts
Valve spring micrometer, checker springs, pushrod length checker, and blue raptor shift light.
Motive 3.73 gears, install kit, TA rear cover, poly torque arm, and trans mounts.
Chrome dipstick, melling oil pump, LS2 timing chain, and LS7 lifters
Moroso battery relocation kit
Redline gear oil and posi additive
-------------------------------
I knew what was going to be in the Spohn box and have to give them a for quick shipping, extremely nice packaging, and including an invoice with the order. I've been dealing with a lot of shredded paper lately that has been driving me insane trying to pick it out of my carpet and the whole paper was a nice change.
Here are all of the new del spheres, their tool, and suspension bolts I ordered
Close up of a panhard rod del sphere
-------------------------------
I wasn't expecting to get my new injectors already, but when I walked over to my parent's house sure enough they were there. Jon shipped them in one of the small USPS priority mail boxes and FIC is decently close so I ended up getting them way before I expected to. I cut the box open and found my new Siemens Deka 60lb / hr flow matched injectors. They all came labeled with a corresponding flow sheet:
-------------------------------
I went through the Speed Inc. boxes and noticed that a few items weren't in there. I figured one of them was being drop shipped, but wasn't sure about the rest. I gave Speed Inc. a call and they informed me like I thought that they were waiting on certain items that were on backorder. I should have the rest of everything by the end of this or beginning of next week.
Items still on their way:
- Engine stand
- Poly motor mounts
- Poly sway bar end links
- Lingenfelter conversion box
I had a feeling the same thing was going on with my Tick master cylinder that I ordered from SDPC. I gave John there another ring and he told me that they had been waiting on them to come in, and that he had shipped it out either on Thursday or Friday. I should have that sometime soon. I asked him if he could go ahead and ship the BCM that I had ordered so I could start working on repinning my harness and rewiring my car. He said it would be no problem. John has been a huge help so far and I can't thank him enough with dealing with all of my questions.
Items still on their way:
- Tick adjustable master cylinder
- Ram aluminum flywheel
- New BCM (I am majorly excited about this piece)
-------------------------------
Pretty much right after I hung up the phone with John at SDPC I received an Email from Brian at BLS stating that my HID kit had shipped and included a tracking number. I've got to say that this should all work out pretty well on the timing of things. I should have my BLS kit and new BCM right around the same time. With those I can start working on:
Repinning the engine harness for 99+ PCM
Installing new BCM for power
Installing BLS HID setup
Relocating the battery to the rear of the car
Wiring 2x 255lph fuel pumps
I still need to order my gauges, gauge mounting solution, new dashboard, pad, a pillars, center console, and door panels. Once all of that is ordered and here I can have the interior parts swapped and everything wired properly.
-------------------------------
About an hour after Brian at BLS sent me an email Patrick G sent me a reply to my PM about helping me with my engine combination. We've been bouncing back and forth PMs so far and everything he's told me has been a huge help. I don't plan on leaving any variable left untouched on this engine build as I don't want to have anything go wrong after spending this much time, money, and effort.
-------------------------------
I'm still waiting on a couple things from members too, but I expect they should be here rather soon. I am also in the process of posting a new items for sale thread. I have a lot of parts that I purchased a while ago for this build that either won't work with what I have or are being replaced with newer parts. I will post a link to that once I can get it finished.
I also really want to thank everyone that I've dealt with so far for being a real help. I've torn many cars apart, but this is my first time putting something back together and I have a ton of questions. John at SDPC, Mike and Ron at Vengeance, the guys at Speed Inc, Brian at BLS, Jon at FIC, Jeff at Speedtweekerz, the lady I talked to at Spohn, Patrick G, and quite a few members on here I wouldn't be able to do this without your help.
Speed Inc. Parts:
ARP wheel studs, header studs, balancer bolt, and rod bolts
Valve spring micrometer, checker springs, pushrod length checker, and blue raptor shift light.
Motive 3.73 gears, install kit, TA rear cover, poly torque arm, and trans mounts.
Chrome dipstick, melling oil pump, LS2 timing chain, and LS7 lifters
Moroso battery relocation kit
Redline gear oil and posi additive
-------------------------------
I knew what was going to be in the Spohn box and have to give them a
for quick shipping, extremely nice packaging, and including an invoice with the order. I've been dealing with a lot of shredded paper lately that has been driving me insane trying to pick it out of my carpet and the whole paper was a nice change.Here are all of the new del spheres, their tool, and suspension bolts I ordered
Close up of a panhard rod del sphere
-------------------------------
I wasn't expecting to get my new injectors already, but when I walked over to my parent's house sure enough they were there. Jon shipped them in one of the small USPS priority mail boxes and FIC is decently close so I ended up getting them way before I expected to. I cut the box open and found my new Siemens Deka 60lb / hr flow matched injectors. They all came labeled with a corresponding flow sheet:
-------------------------------
I went through the Speed Inc. boxes and noticed that a few items weren't in there. I figured one of them was being drop shipped, but wasn't sure about the rest. I gave Speed Inc. a call and they informed me like I thought that they were waiting on certain items that were on backorder. I should have the rest of everything by the end of this or beginning of next week.
Items still on their way:
- Engine stand
- Poly motor mounts
- Poly sway bar end links
- Lingenfelter conversion box
I had a feeling the same thing was going on with my Tick master cylinder that I ordered from SDPC. I gave John there another ring and he told me that they had been waiting on them to come in, and that he had shipped it out either on Thursday or Friday. I should have that sometime soon. I asked him if he could go ahead and ship the BCM that I had ordered so I could start working on repinning my harness and rewiring my car. He said it would be no problem. John has been a huge help so far and I can't thank him enough with dealing with all of my questions.
Items still on their way:
- Tick adjustable master cylinder
- Ram aluminum flywheel
- New BCM (I am majorly excited about this piece)
-------------------------------
Pretty much right after I hung up the phone with John at SDPC I received an Email from Brian at BLS stating that my HID kit had shipped and included a tracking number. I've got to say that this should all work out pretty well on the timing of things. I should have my BLS kit and new BCM right around the same time. With those I can start working on:
Repinning the engine harness for 99+ PCM
Installing new BCM for power
Installing BLS HID setup
Relocating the battery to the rear of the car
Wiring 2x 255lph fuel pumps
I still need to order my gauges, gauge mounting solution, new dashboard, pad, a pillars, center console, and door panels. Once all of that is ordered and here I can have the interior parts swapped and everything wired properly.
-------------------------------
About an hour after Brian at BLS sent me an email Patrick G sent me a reply to my PM about helping me with my engine combination. We've been bouncing back and forth PMs so far and everything he's told me has been a huge help. I don't plan on leaving any variable left untouched on this engine build as I don't want to have anything go wrong after spending this much time, money, and effort.
-------------------------------
I'm still waiting on a couple things from members too, but I expect they should be here rather soon. I am also in the process of posting a new items for sale thread. I have a lot of parts that I purchased a while ago for this build that either won't work with what I have or are being replaced with newer parts. I will post a link to that once I can get it finished.
I also really want to thank everyone that I've dealt with so far for being a real help. I've torn many cars apart, but this is my first time putting something back together and I have a ton of questions. John at SDPC, Mike and Ron at Vengeance, the guys at Speed Inc, Brian at BLS, Jon at FIC, Jeff at Speedtweekerz, the lady I talked to at Spohn, Patrick G, and quite a few members on here I wouldn't be able to do this without your help.
05-25-2010, 06:23 PM
#164
That is a very good point and one of which I am particuarly grateful for. Although on the other hand I technically own 4 and only one works. One is a parts car I need to have towed away soon and my 93 is so far beyond gone that it'll be 5 years before it runs. I'll post some pictures of that later tonight for humor purposes. This car will go back together and then I can fix somethings on my 95 / DD.
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I started my day by searching for parts once again and found a single massive box at my parent's house. I carried it back to my place and found my 2 inch kooks headers. I'm glad they finally came in today. I wasn't in any big hurry, but kind of worried until the member I got them from sent me a PM towards the end of last week. Here they are:
Other than the dirtiness they look good. There is only one light little scrape and zero dings in them. Is there anything I can use to bring a little of the stainless luster back to them?
I hadn't heard back from the guys at RacepartsUSA so I gave them a ring. I talked to the same guy as I did last time and he told me that they'll be getting the tubing in Thursday or Friday from their guy who makes them. I am pretty excited about those though. They should be very light, more than strong enough, and look good black anodized.
I went to get a haircut and when I came home I found a package from Fedex. I opened it up and found my autotrix passenger side window motor wiring fix.
I have to work overnight tonight from 11pm until 7am so I am going to try and get a lot done tonight. I will post my new items for sale thread and put a link to it in here along with a couple amusing pictures.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
I started my day by searching for parts once again and found a single massive box at my parent's house. I carried it back to my place and found my 2 inch kooks headers. I'm glad they finally came in today. I wasn't in any big hurry, but kind of worried until the member I got them from sent me a PM towards the end of last week. Here they are:
Other than the dirtiness they look good. There is only one light little scrape and zero dings in them. Is there anything I can use to bring a little of the stainless luster back to them?
I hadn't heard back from the guys at RacepartsUSA so I gave them a ring. I talked to the same guy as I did last time and he told me that they'll be getting the tubing in Thursday or Friday from their guy who makes them. I am pretty excited about those though. They should be very light, more than strong enough, and look good black anodized.
I went to get a haircut and when I came home I found a package from Fedex. I opened it up and found my autotrix passenger side window motor wiring fix.
I have to work overnight tonight from 11pm until 7am so I am going to try and get a lot done tonight. I will post my new items for sale thread and put a link to it in here along with a couple amusing pictures.
05-29-2010, 01:18 PM
#167
I have a bunch of things to update from the 26th onwards. I will get to it soon. Things have been a little hectic lately. Meanwhile:
Support the builds and get parts at a great price at the same time:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...parts-etc.html
Support the builds and get parts at a great price at the same time:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...parts-etc.html
05-30-2010, 07:22 PM
#168
Update time. I've been really busy with random health related issues lately and haven't had time to do anything. I am 100% healthy though which is nice to find out. Work on the car will begine tonight.
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That is exactly what I like to hear. I hope that it will hold what I am going to throw at it.
I definetly didn't put the jack on the oil pan. There will be no more changing my mind on this project. What I have now is what is going in the car. Although about a year ago a sponsor was running a deal for $4995 on ERL resleeved 427 short blocks. I almost considered buying one, but didn't have the money.
John,
It didn't come with a water pump when I bought it. I have a few Fbody pumps laying around in the garage. I need to unwrap the engine and try to bolt one down to see if it will clear. From what I've seen on here, I don't think it will. Like you said the truck spacing is further out by right around .75 inches. I'll mess with it tonight and I'll let you know tomorrow.
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Wednesday the 26th:
I only received a couple parts on Wednesday. I received my Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder from SDPC and my Walbro 255lph twin in tank fuel pump setup from Speedtweekerz.
Tick Master:
Twin Walbro 255lph Assembly:
Thursday the 27th:
Thursday was a very fruitful day in that I received probably the single most important part towards getting my project rolling again, another part I'm excited about, and ordered a ton of things. The most important thing I got in the mail was my new BCM from John at SDPC. I've said it before and I'll say it again, but this is the one thing I need to start working on my car. Now, that I have it and some free time work shall commence tonight.
BCM!
I started working on ordering somethings and the UPS guy came by to drop off a box. I met him at the door and found a semi destroyed / half opened box. He dropped it off and of course left even though I asked him to stay for a moment. I checked the label and it was my BLS HID headlight kit. I'm thinking, "Great, my super expensive headlights just got destroyed by UPS."
Here's the BLS box once I got it inside:
I checked everything out there and nothing seemed to be broken. Brian from BLS packaged everything extremely well. I have to say that if it wasn't packaged as well at least half of the contents inside wouldn't have survived.
Here is a crappy picture of the pieces of the BLS kit:
After I checked all of that stuff out and was amazed nothing was damaged I went back to tracking down all of the interior parts I need and ordered another small fortune in parts. I gave Speed Inc. a real quick call about their Pro 5.0 and short stick combo. For anyone that wants to know their short shifter stick is 6 inches long compared to the OEM 8-5/8ths. I then ordered one online, and received an email saying they are out of stock, but will ship shortly. I told them that was fine as I have to assemble a whole car first.
After that I ordered a shift **** from product innovations that looks like this:
Followed by a new shift boot from Redline Goods. I ordered a short shifter boot in black carbon fiber vinyl and a new metal shift boot ring to hold it in. I shouldn't ever need another plastic shifter clip or boot again. I then got a PM from them on here saying they need a couple shifter measurements to make it how I want it. Unfortunately, I don't have the new shifter (or any at all) to give them measurements off of so I am going to have to wait until the Pro 5.0 and short stick comes in from Speed Inc.
I then searched around with google shopping and found by far the cheapest prices I could on new gauges. I ended up going with the Autometer Cobalt digital gauges:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugesi...?sid=69&opId=7
I haven't seen anyone on here with them and I like the black outside ring versus the normal chrome one. I ordered three gauges and three carbon fiber mounting cups. I was wanting to modify a dash mount for a newer Dodge Dakota, but ended up going with these gauge cups:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_mountsd...=49&mid=8&pg=0
I am planning on mounting them right in the middle of the dash angled towards the driver. I mocked it up with some 2-5/8ths gauges I have for my 93 and I like the look. In hindsight I had a better mounting, and cheaper idea, but I already ordered everything so I may just keep them. Once everything gets here I'll post pictures of how I plan on mounting them.
I also ordered an innovative motorsporst LC1 wideband and DB gauge for a price shipped better than you can buy it direct again, with google shopping. I think it will match the cobalt digital gauges pretty well.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php
Probably the most important thing I ordered were the tools to degree a camshaft and do some other measurements from Jegs. Hopefully, with everything I ordered, my Kent Moore J tool kit, and current tools I should have everything I need to assemble this engine. I can also send Patrick G some measurements and he can continue to help me out with everything.
In the parts for sale section I found a set of Ebony A pillars and door panel inserts that I sent members money for. I also found a dash board and dash pad that I'm just waiting to here a shipped total from. I am going to start working on taking some measurements, test fitting the water, pump, and repinning the harness tonight.
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I definetly didn't put the jack on the oil pan. There will be no more changing my mind on this project. What I have now is what is going in the car. Although about a year ago a sponsor was running a deal for $4995 on ERL resleeved 427 short blocks. I almost considered buying one, but didn't have the money.
Ah hah. I had figured that engine came with a water pump. The truck spacing is farther out, but these covers are also used on the L99 Camaros which also has the same rough spacing as the trucks too lol. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I have some of the LS2 covers floating around here, so let me know what you find out and I can get it done.
It didn't come with a water pump when I bought it. I have a few Fbody pumps laying around in the garage. I need to unwrap the engine and try to bolt one down to see if it will clear. From what I've seen on here, I don't think it will. Like you said the truck spacing is further out by right around .75 inches. I'll mess with it tonight and I'll let you know tomorrow.
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Wednesday the 26th:
I only received a couple parts on Wednesday. I received my Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder from SDPC and my Walbro 255lph twin in tank fuel pump setup from Speedtweekerz.
Tick Master:
Twin Walbro 255lph Assembly:
Thursday the 27th:
Thursday was a very fruitful day in that I received probably the single most important part towards getting my project rolling again, another part I'm excited about, and ordered a ton of things. The most important thing I got in the mail was my new BCM from John at SDPC. I've said it before and I'll say it again, but this is the one thing I need to start working on my car. Now, that I have it and some free time work shall commence tonight.
BCM!
I started working on ordering somethings and the UPS guy came by to drop off a box. I met him at the door and found a semi destroyed / half opened box. He dropped it off and of course left even though I asked him to stay for a moment. I checked the label and it was my BLS HID headlight kit. I'm thinking, "Great, my super expensive headlights just got destroyed by UPS."
Here's the BLS box once I got it inside:
I checked everything out there and nothing seemed to be broken. Brian from BLS packaged everything extremely well. I have to say that if it wasn't packaged as well at least half of the contents inside wouldn't have survived.
Here is a crappy picture of the pieces of the BLS kit:
After I checked all of that stuff out and was amazed nothing was damaged I went back to tracking down all of the interior parts I need and ordered another small fortune in parts. I gave Speed Inc. a real quick call about their Pro 5.0 and short stick combo. For anyone that wants to know their short shifter stick is 6 inches long compared to the OEM 8-5/8ths. I then ordered one online, and received an email saying they are out of stock, but will ship shortly. I told them that was fine as I have to assemble a whole car first.
After that I ordered a shift **** from product innovations that looks like this:
Followed by a new shift boot from Redline Goods. I ordered a short shifter boot in black carbon fiber vinyl and a new metal shift boot ring to hold it in. I shouldn't ever need another plastic shifter clip or boot again. I then got a PM from them on here saying they need a couple shifter measurements to make it how I want it. Unfortunately, I don't have the new shifter (or any at all) to give them measurements off of so I am going to have to wait until the Pro 5.0 and short stick comes in from Speed Inc.
I then searched around with google shopping and found by far the cheapest prices I could on new gauges. I ended up going with the Autometer Cobalt digital gauges:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugesi...?sid=69&opId=7
I haven't seen anyone on here with them and I like the black outside ring versus the normal chrome one. I ordered three gauges and three carbon fiber mounting cups. I was wanting to modify a dash mount for a newer Dodge Dakota, but ended up going with these gauge cups:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_mountsd...=49&mid=8&pg=0
I am planning on mounting them right in the middle of the dash angled towards the driver. I mocked it up with some 2-5/8ths gauges I have for my 93 and I like the look. In hindsight I had a better mounting, and cheaper idea, but I already ordered everything so I may just keep them. Once everything gets here I'll post pictures of how I plan on mounting them.
I also ordered an innovative motorsporst LC1 wideband and DB gauge for a price shipped better than you can buy it direct again, with google shopping. I think it will match the cobalt digital gauges pretty well.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/db.php
Probably the most important thing I ordered were the tools to degree a camshaft and do some other measurements from Jegs. Hopefully, with everything I ordered, my Kent Moore J tool kit, and current tools I should have everything I need to assemble this engine. I can also send Patrick G some measurements and he can continue to help me out with everything.
In the parts for sale section I found a set of Ebony A pillars and door panel inserts that I sent members money for. I also found a dash board and dash pad that I'm just waiting to here a shipped total from. I am going to start working on taking some measurements, test fitting the water, pump, and repinning the harness tonight.
06-01-2010, 05:14 PM
#169
6-31-10, 12:12am
Rookie mistake #1 = I'm an idiot.
I was planning on repinning my harness tonight, plugging in my new bcm, charging my battery, and having electricity. Not to be... All of the information I've gathered has been to install a 99+ pcm using a 98 engine harness. I no longer have a 98 engine harness, but a 99+ harness. ****! Instead of changing all of the pins in the red and blue connectors which I have the diagrams for I have to change the interconnects on the passenger side fender and where the wiring comes through the firewall on the same side. That would be fine if I had the information for that, but I don't.
I'm going to try and get in touch with Doc of EFI Alchemy tomorrow as I know he knows what I'll need to do here. I may end up selling this harnes, buying a cheaper 98 one, repinning, and having some extra money. We'll see, but either way I'm stuck waiting once again.
Rookie mistake #1 = I'm an idiot.
I was planning on repinning my harness tonight, plugging in my new bcm, charging my battery, and having electricity. Not to be... All of the information I've gathered has been to install a 99+ pcm using a 98 engine harness. I no longer have a 98 engine harness, but a 99+ harness. ****! Instead of changing all of the pins in the red and blue connectors which I have the diagrams for I have to change the interconnects on the passenger side fender and where the wiring comes through the firewall on the same side. That would be fine if I had the information for that, but I don't.
I'm going to try and get in touch with Doc of EFI Alchemy tomorrow as I know he knows what I'll need to do here. I may end up selling this harnes, buying a cheaper 98 one, repinning, and having some extra money. We'll see, but either way I'm stuck waiting once again.
06-01-2010, 05:15 PM
#170
Random, but why do you specifically need an LS2 / 3 block? I know there are differences in the main webbing construction, but does that affect your CNC program? I could get an LS1 block much cheaper and not have to deal with conversion wiring. Hint... Hint... Hint...
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A few more things arrived today which will actually allow me to do some sort of work towards getting the car running. I was pretty excited to work towards having electrical power again, but with my wiring snafu I haven't been able to do anything yet.
I received one 51lb box from Speed Inc. that is one bright orange engine stand:
I think the UPS guy must hate me or something for making him deliver all of these packages. Pretty much every package I've received from UPS has been beaten to ****. The past two were actually ripped partially open. Seeing this constant trend it makes me even more of a happy USPS customer.
Two thirds of my order from Jegs came in. I got the cam degree kit and the crank socket today. I am still waiting on one little dial bore extension, but I won't need that until I go to assemble the engine.
Sorry, I forgot to rotate this one.
The last thing I got in today was my new shift **** from product innovations. I like it although I am still on the fence on the size. I ordered the 3 inch hardbar although upon holding it I think I should have ordered the 4 inch one. My new shift stick is 2-5/8ths shorter along with a smaller shift **** it may be much more, "different / difficult" than I want. I'll just have to wait and see when I get everything put together. Here's mine:
Here is a comparison shot from Product Innovations:
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Now, that I have the dial bore gauge and stand I can measure the valve drop in my heads uninstalled. Then, measure it installed to see if any of the valve reliefs in my OEM L92 pistons match up with the valve location of my cathedral port heads. If they do it would supply me with some increased piston to valve clearance. I am going to try and get my engine unwrapped either tonight or tomorrow afternoon to get those measurements and test fit an fbody water pump over the VVT L92 front cover.
06-03-2010, 06:34 PM
#171
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Today, in being June 3rd officially marks the three year anniversary of my engine destroying itself in my driveway when I tried to start it. Three years later it is still not running and driving me absolutely insane.
Today has been pretty much a complete waste of time. More so than that in the fact that it has actually been a step backwards. Nothing came in the mail today. I checked my paypal account to wonder if someone had sent me money for a part. I didn't find money from that person, but for some odd reason I had roughly an extra $150 in my account. As I look through my transactions I notice a refund for a large sum of money. I click on it and find that it is the money that I spent on my gauges. I click on the transaction and find the reason for my refund:
"Parts not in stock. 4 day lead time from autometer. Sent 2 emails, no response from customer. Sorry for the inconvenience."
I didn't receive any sort of contact; either an email, letter, anything. Now, I have part of the money that was spent through paypal in my account, but am currently missing or waiting on the other $500.15 to magically reappear. When I checked it this morning it said that the refund had been issued by the seller for the total amount. I checked my bank account and was missing the $500. I just checked paypal again and it says that a credit card refund has been issued, so I check my bank account again, and no money.
The part that really makes me upset about this is that they could have simply sent them anyways. I ordered them on the 27th and if you count 4 business days excluding Saturday and Monday as a holiday that would be uh... TODAY. Not to mention shipping for 3 gauges and 3 single gauge cups through UPS ground was going to cost $29. Granted they are in California and I am in Florida, but if they shipped in a $12.95 or $14.50 flat rate priority mail box I would have paid half as much and gotten the items in half the time.
Needless to say I won't be doing business with them again. I plan on finding a sponsor that carries Autometer cobalt digital gauges, offers price matching, and ordering the gauges through them. Anyone know of sponsors carry these?
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The other thing that has been driving me insane has been dealing with the wiring issues of my car. I originally was going to repin the harness until I realized that with the 99 engine harness and PCM that is not an option. I sent Doc at EFI alchemy a PM a couple days ago. He replied by sending me a couple emails and gave me a phone call yesterday. He told me that instead I need to repin the interconnects at the BCM and that it should be less work. He told me where to find the diagrams for the interconnects and the pinouts for the different years. Today, I went to the site and found all of the information.
I went to look at my car to find the connectors and see if they match up with the diagrams. Well, I can't find the ******* plugs. For some odd reason the 3 interconnects that match the BCM are either hiding from me, not in the car, or I have three C1, C2, and C3 shaped blindspots on my eyes.
Here is a picture of the BCM connectors. One is a 32 pin and the other two are 6 pin connectors:
Here is all of the wiring in that area of my car:
I noticed two things right away. One was a cut ground:
The other was these three plugs being the only ones unconnected:
I then noticed the missing grommet in my firewall and thought maybe that the plugs were on the PCM side of the engine harness:
Yes, I know my engine bay is dirty. It's been sitting for three years.
I then checked the engine harness, found the grommet, but only two plugs. I think this is what Doc was telling me about needing to go from my 98 three plugs to 99+ of only have two.
Yet, I couldn't find the BCM plugs. Here is what they are supposed to look like.
(This image is from a 96-98 vehicle)
According to the diagrams there is one C3 blue 32 way, C2 black 6 way, and C1 green 6 way for a total of three connectors at the BCM.
I just can't seem to find these three plugs. I don't know where they are hiding or if they had been removed from my car with the BCM (without my consent). I am also wondering about what that ground goes to. Anyone know?
If anyone could take a picture of their BCM area, post it, or PM it to me I would greatly appreciate it. I am looking for where these three plugs come from. As in the where the wires that end at the plug come from. Are they on the interior harness or the engine harness?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
06-04-2010, 08:28 AM
#172
I just got off of work a couple hours ago. While I was there I managed to print around 50 pages of pinouts and wiring diagrams that should help me out. I went through all of them and decided that when I got home I was going to look through the car again while waiting for the post office to open.
Well, look what I found:
MY BCM!
Here are those magical connectors I was looking for:
I figured that if I wasn't missing my BCM I was missing some other sort of electrical module / box. I decided to pull the passenger side kick panel off of my 95 and here it is:
Yeah, I have no clue.
Here are the two connectors that plug into it:
I didn't see those two plugs in my Formula, but perhaps it is a year to year difference?
I started to slide it out and noticed a number stamped on the side:
I then managed to pry it all they way out of its holster and took a picture of the label:
Anyone have any idea what this thing is? I could really use some help with this as I now need another electric module. Hopefully, I can trade John the BCM for what ever this new piece is.
EDIT: Googled it and it is the keyless entry module. Could someone take a picture of theirs in their car for me? Specifically, a 98+ model so I can see what plugs run into it.
Well, look what I found:
MY BCM!
Here are those magical connectors I was looking for:
I figured that if I wasn't missing my BCM I was missing some other sort of electrical module / box. I decided to pull the passenger side kick panel off of my 95 and here it is:
Yeah, I have no clue.
Here are the two connectors that plug into it:
I didn't see those two plugs in my Formula, but perhaps it is a year to year difference?
I started to slide it out and noticed a number stamped on the side:
I then managed to pry it all they way out of its holster and took a picture of the label:
Anyone have any idea what this thing is? I could really use some help with this as I now need another electric module. Hopefully, I can trade John the BCM for what ever this new piece is.
EDIT: Googled it and it is the keyless entry module. Could someone take a picture of theirs in their car for me? Specifically, a 98+ model so I can see what plugs run into it.
06-04-2010, 07:59 PM
#173
Upon waking up I found a couple packages at the house....
The first was my wideband O2 sensor that I bought. It is an innovative DB gauge with an LC1. I have to say it is a really cool setup. They include absolutely everything you could possibly need to install it, data logging software, and instructions.
The other thing was something I've been waiting on a long time to receive. I went through a debacle involving a sponsor on here basically stealing a laptop from the seller after receiving a refund, which I had paid for, was supposed to be mine, refusing to ship it back to the seller, or me, and lowballing him on the price. The seller was awesome to deal with and shipped me another one after eating the loss of being lowballed and threw in two extra batteries for free.
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In regards to my wiring debacle.
1. Could someone with a 98+ take a picture of their keyless entry module, the plugs that go into it, and post it or PM it to me?
2. Anyone know how much those things cost?
3. If my 95 has one then I should theoretically have keyless entry? I have an extra key fob. Would I just have to go through the programming process?
The first was my wideband O2 sensor that I bought. It is an innovative DB gauge with an LC1. I have to say it is a really cool setup. They include absolutely everything you could possibly need to install it, data logging software, and instructions.
The other thing was something I've been waiting on a long time to receive. I went through a debacle involving a sponsor on here basically stealing a laptop from the seller after receiving a refund, which I had paid for, was supposed to be mine, refusing to ship it back to the seller, or me, and lowballing him on the price. The seller was awesome to deal with and shipped me another one after eating the loss of being lowballed and threw in two extra batteries for free.
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In regards to my wiring debacle.
1. Could someone with a 98+ take a picture of their keyless entry module, the plugs that go into it, and post it or PM it to me?
2. Anyone know how much those things cost?
3. If my 95 has one then I should theoretically have keyless entry? I have an extra key fob. Would I just have to go through the programming process?
06-09-2010, 06:04 PM
#175
^ Indeed.
I got a couple parts in today and managed to get some work done. I received my aluminum flywheel from SDPC, Pro 5.0 and short stick from Speed Inc, and 5 inch dial bore extension from Jegs. With the dial bore extension I can finally measure my valve drop and get measurements to Patrick G. With the shifter I can get Maciek at Redline Goods the measurements he needs to make my shift boot.
Pro 5.0 from Speed Inc. with short stick.
I actually wanted the short straight stick, but ended up with the angled one. There wasn't a spot to say what you wanted so I just gave them a call. I've also been waiting on some parts from my original order from the 13th of May. The guy there checked on my order and told me that they had been waiting on the Lingenfelter box to ship everything, that it was there, and it would be shipped out today or tomorrow. I asked him about the short stick and he said he would make a note on my invoice. That I should just send in the angled one and they'd send me the straight one in exchange.
Ram Aluminum Flywheel from SDPC:
John comes through again. I am going to need to give him a call tomorrow for some other things. I am going to try and do some work tonight on getting engine measurements together and figuring out what random parts I need.
5 Inch dial bore extension:
After putting those items away I gave RacePartsUSA another call. My tubing showed up finally and it should be shipping today. For some odd reason my panhard rod tube didn't come in anodized like the LCA tubing. I figure I'll either polish it or paint it with the rear end.
I was also searching around for the interior panels I want in ebony when I stumbled across a deal in the sponsors sale section. Specialized Stainless is running 50% off their ebony and tan leather wrapping kits.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...l#post13446476
I bough a kit and a shifter plaque from them for way less than I would have spent on new interior panels. I plan on wrapping pretty much everything in the interior once it arrives. I am still going to need a new dash and have one lined up, but am waiting to hear from the member how much shipping will be.
I got a couple parts in today and managed to get some work done. I received my aluminum flywheel from SDPC, Pro 5.0 and short stick from Speed Inc, and 5 inch dial bore extension from Jegs. With the dial bore extension I can finally measure my valve drop and get measurements to Patrick G. With the shifter I can get Maciek at Redline Goods the measurements he needs to make my shift boot.
Pro 5.0 from Speed Inc. with short stick.
I actually wanted the short straight stick, but ended up with the angled one. There wasn't a spot to say what you wanted so I just gave them a call. I've also been waiting on some parts from my original order from the 13th of May. The guy there checked on my order and told me that they had been waiting on the Lingenfelter box to ship everything, that it was there, and it would be shipped out today or tomorrow. I asked him about the short stick and he said he would make a note on my invoice. That I should just send in the angled one and they'd send me the straight one in exchange.
Ram Aluminum Flywheel from SDPC:
John comes through again. I am going to need to give him a call tomorrow for some other things. I am going to try and do some work tonight on getting engine measurements together and figuring out what random parts I need.
5 Inch dial bore extension:
After putting those items away I gave RacePartsUSA another call. My tubing showed up finally and it should be shipping today. For some odd reason my panhard rod tube didn't come in anodized like the LCA tubing. I figure I'll either polish it or paint it with the rear end.
I was also searching around for the interior panels I want in ebony when I stumbled across a deal in the sponsors sale section. Specialized Stainless is running 50% off their ebony and tan leather wrapping kits.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...l#post13446476
I bough a kit and a shifter plaque from them for way less than I would have spent on new interior panels. I plan on wrapping pretty much everything in the interior once it arrives. I am still going to need a new dash and have one lined up, but am waiting to hear from the member how much shipping will be.
06-10-2010, 06:53 PM
#176
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Nothing came in the mail today as I only have a couple pending items still headed this way and I paid for two of them yesterday. Within the next week or so I should have my new a pillars, ebony interior kit, shifter plaque, new straight short stick, PHR / LCA tubing, items from my original speed inc. order, and once I can get some measurements my shift boot from Redline Goods.
Update wise though I actually managed to work on something that matters last night. Last night was the first official night of making positive progress. With finally getting that dial bore extension I could get some work done on measuring the valve drop on my heads.
The first thing I did was unwrap my engine and dig out some parts I'd had in storage for a while. I bought a complete set of Fbody front accessories from a member on here a while ago and opened some and left others in the packaging. I finally opened the water pump last night to test fit it with the L92 front cover. When I opened the pump I noticed the tensioner was basically frozen in place and the pulley was broken.
great! I think I bought a spare one a long time ago, but I'll need to check. Either way much like I believed the front cover doesn't allow the Fbody water pump to clear. It isn't even close:
After I found that wouldn't work I picked the closest piston and correlating chamber in the heads and started working. I've pulled a couple sets of springs off of heads before so I wasn't expecting to have issues. For what ever reason of which I am still unsure the locks would not come out of the retainers. I used an assortment of different sockets and hammers ranging from a ball peen, claw, and 3 lb mini sledge (The wall destroyer. You can see it in the background of this picture). Eventually, I ended up tightening the compressor on them slightly, putting the socket on top of the compressor, and smashing it with my mini sledge. After a few bashes they finally came out.
[Borat Voice] Success, very nice!!! [/Borat Voice] It honestly took me at least 45 minutes to get this one off.
Once I got that one off I proceeded to install the checker spring in it's place and do the same with the exhaust valve spring setup. This one came off quicker but was actually more of a pain in the *** to knock loose. When I finally got both checker springs installed I carried the head upstairs with my dial bore indicator. I've never used a dial bore indicator before and had no clue what so ever how to set it up or what it threaded into. I went through a ton of different ideas before I just decided to start trying to thread the base into every hole in the head I could find. Eventually, I figured that it threads into the middle of the 3 holes on the rocker pad.
= meIntake valve drop measurements:
Exhaust valve zeroed out:
Exhaust valve measured:
Once I got all of the measurements from the head on a flate surface I was going to continue in installing the head on the block and seeing if any of the valve reliefs in the piston correlate. The first thing I was trying to do was get the piston towards the top. In doing so I managed to acrue my first battle wound by getting my fingers jammed between the flywheel and block:
It was a couple stupid tiny cuts, but super deep, and cut through my fingernail.
After I finally stopped bleeding I decided that turning the engine over using a socket on the flywheel bolts was a much safer idea. I then had the problem of trying to figure out how I was going to mount the dial bore indicator. Everything I was trying wasn't even coming close to being steady and was giving me innacurate measurements. I had an idea to take my angle grinder and grind the head of an oem head bolt round so that the indicator base could be tightened over the head. I ditched that idea as I knew it would be too loud for 2am. I finally came up with this setup after thinking for a while and it worked out pretty well.
I jammed one of my extra PtV checker springs under the ring for the indicator base and then tightened the head bolt down. I used the 5'' extension to get it where I wanted it centered in the piston. The issue I was having was that in turning the engine by the flywheel with a ratchet was that even in barely trying to turn it would end up moving the piston around .150. I figured that if I added my giant breaker bar onto the ratchet that I could move the ratchet extremely slowly and determine top dead center. I worked out pretty well. I am going to mark it on the block and flywheel for reference basically like a degree wheel.
By this point in time it was about 230am and I had to be at work at 7am this morning so I decided to pack everything up. I am planning on getting the valve drop installed measurements tonight and try to do a couple other things if I can.
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Questions
In regards to my wiring debacle.
1. Could someone with a 98+ take a picture of their keyless entry module, the plugs that go into it, and post it or PM it to me?
2. Anyone know how much those things cost?
3. If my 95 has one then I should theoretically have keyless entry? I have an extra key fob. Would I just have to go through the programming process?
Valve Drop Questons.
1. I've never measured this before what so ever so let me know if my numbers sound about right.
2.055 Intake valve = 1.000 - .847 = .153 with .002 showing on the gauge instead of zero when I released the compressor from the spring completely.
1.600 Exhaust valve = 1.000 - .805 = .195 with .0015 showing on the gauge instead of zero when I released the compressor from the spring completely.
06-15-2010, 06:15 PM
#178
I've been really busy lately and haven't been able to post an update. Here's one giant one.
I haven't gotten the chance to mess with them yet. I don't have power to the car yet so I can't really be wiring lights. That is the one thing I need to figure out pronto, I just need some help.
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On Thursday, the 10th I finished up measuring my valve drop with the head on the short block. I already had the rear piston at TDC by my previous breaker bar and dial bore indicator method so I figured it would be pretty easy. I only had four head bolts so I tightened them down slightly snug on the head. I noticed when installing the head that all four of the head dowels in the block are missing so I’m adding that onto my ever growing list of parts I need.
The whole goal of doing this on the head was to see if any of the OEM valve reliefs in the L92 pistons correspond to the Dart heads I have. I started with the exhaust valve side. I set up my dial bore indicator on the head, put the compressor on, and zeroed it out. I then measured it out and came up with .297 inches of clearance before the valve contacted the piston at TDC. I measured it out again just to be thorough and came up with the exact same measurement. Obviously this is an increase over my counter measured .195 so I picked up roughly .100 inches of clearance.
I then moved onto the intake valve and transferred everything over.
Here is what I came up with on the intake side:
Clearance ended up measuring out to .154 and .147 when I measured again. Unfortunately, for me that means that the valve relief in the piston doesn’t correspond at all on the intake valve side.
Measurements:
On the Counter:
Intake Valve = .153 with .002 release change
Exhaust Valve = .195 with .0015 release change
On the Block:
Intake Valve = .154 and .147 with zero release change
Exhaust Valve = .297 with zero release change
I really don’t know what that gives me piston to valve clearance wise when designing a cam, but I’m going to leave that to Patrick G. Looking back I should have been able to figure out that the exhaust side would clear and the intake side wouldn’t. Here is my OEM L92 piston:
The right relief is for the exhaust valve and the left for the intake valve. For some odd reason the intake valve relief is on the bottom of the piston instead of on the top like this Diamond -1.8cc piston I used to own:
This piston has corresponding valve reliefs. The intake valve is on the top left and the exhaust on the top right. Looking at it now it seems so basic, but like I said I am an assembly .
I’m also doing all of this in a tiny space between my closet full of parts and my drier.
To the left is that black hood I picked up a long time ago in my 95.
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Friday, the 11th I didn’t get too much done as I’m kind of stuck waiting on parts or searching for information. I did get my aluminum hex tubing in the mail from RacePartsUSA. I was very surprised how quickly everything arrived as I talked to him on Wednesday the 9th right around 4:30pm and the parts got here on the morning of the 11th.
Much like I thought my LCA tubing ended up anodized, but the PHR one didn’t for some odd reason. I’m still unsure whether I am going to paint it black with the rear or polish it. With the tubing in hand I decided to go ahead and thread all of the Spohn del spheres onto the tubing. I have to admit that the right and left handed threads messed me up at first. I was thinking that for some odd reason I messed up my order. I started with the PHR tubing and everything went in really easy. It looks pretty pimp even in it’s current state:
After that I started threading the del spheres on the LCA tubing. Upon getting everything installed I noticed that they seemed pretty long and had a lot of unthreaded length. I have an extra set of OEM LCAs and my Wolfe offset LCAs in the garage. I decided to set the Wolfe’s and my new aluminum ones next to each other. Sure enough as I sat them next to each other the new ones were noticeably longer.
I decided to measure them length wise from bolt hole to bolt hole. The Wolfes measured out at 19.5 inches (same as my OEM ones) and my new ones measured 21 inches. I knew that the extra length would cause issues so I measured both tubes again. Both the Wolfes and my new LCA tubes measured out to 16 inches in length so that wasn’t the issue. I immediately knew that the extra threaded bolt length of the del spheres was what was causing the issue.
I threaded the del sphere all the way back into the rod and tightened down the jam nut as a measuring point. I then pulled it off and measured. The LCA tube is threaded 1.75 inches deep and the del sphere has 2.5 inches of thread. That extra .75 inches of length of unthreaded material was what was causing them to be too long.
I then decided for kicks to pull off one of the Wolfe rod ends and I noticed it was much shorter right away.
I guess the guys at RacePartsUSA deal with rod ends which have a much shorter overall thread length. I would say if you guys are ordering tubing and planning on using del spheres ask for it to be threaded around 2.75 inches deep per side to make sure that they will thread in completely. I would also suggest if you desire to swap your current rod ended LCAs or PHR for del spheres to go to the hardware store, buy a 3 inch ¾-16 bolt, and use it to test the threaded depth of your tubing before spending $51 per del sphere / spacer combo. This will let you know if you will be set to go before spending a decent amount of money. For me now that I already have everything I am planning on Monday to go to Sears to buy some tools including a roughly 3 inch ¾-16 tap to put an extra .75-1 inch of threads in my LCA tubing.
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All I really on Saturday, the 12th was work. I worked from 11pm Friday night until 7am Saturday morning, left for less than 8 hours, and then worked from 3pm to 11pm the same day. I was woken up by my postman who happens to be my neighbor knocking on my door around 1pm. I staggered out there and found part of my ebony interior leather wrapping kit from Specialized Stainless. I just set it aside and went back to sleep. When I got home around 11:45pm I decided to open it up. Inside was the all of the tools minus the roller and leather material, instructions and my shifter plaque. I was a little unsure of the firebird logo on the shifter plaque at first, but upon seeing it I really like it.
Wrapping kit tools:
Shifter Plaque:
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I haven't gotten the chance to mess with them yet. I don't have power to the car yet so I can't really be wiring lights. That is the one thing I need to figure out pronto, I just need some help.
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On Thursday, the 10th I finished up measuring my valve drop with the head on the short block. I already had the rear piston at TDC by my previous breaker bar and dial bore indicator method so I figured it would be pretty easy. I only had four head bolts so I tightened them down slightly snug on the head. I noticed when installing the head that all four of the head dowels in the block are missing so I’m adding that onto my ever growing list of parts I need.
The whole goal of doing this on the head was to see if any of the OEM valve reliefs in the L92 pistons correspond to the Dart heads I have. I started with the exhaust valve side. I set up my dial bore indicator on the head, put the compressor on, and zeroed it out. I then measured it out and came up with .297 inches of clearance before the valve contacted the piston at TDC. I measured it out again just to be thorough and came up with the exact same measurement. Obviously this is an increase over my counter measured .195 so I picked up roughly .100 inches of clearance.
I then moved onto the intake valve and transferred everything over.
Here is what I came up with on the intake side:
Clearance ended up measuring out to .154 and .147 when I measured again. Unfortunately, for me that means that the valve relief in the piston doesn’t correspond at all on the intake valve side.
Measurements:
On the Counter:
Intake Valve = .153 with .002 release change
Exhaust Valve = .195 with .0015 release change
On the Block:
Intake Valve = .154 and .147 with zero release change
Exhaust Valve = .297 with zero release change
I really don’t know what that gives me piston to valve clearance wise when designing a cam, but I’m going to leave that to Patrick G. Looking back I should have been able to figure out that the exhaust side would clear and the intake side wouldn’t. Here is my OEM L92 piston:
The right relief is for the exhaust valve and the left for the intake valve. For some odd reason the intake valve relief is on the bottom of the piston instead of on the top like this Diamond -1.8cc piston I used to own:
This piston has corresponding valve reliefs. The intake valve is on the top left and the exhaust on the top right. Looking at it now it seems so basic, but like I said I am an assembly
. I’m also doing all of this in a tiny space between my closet full of parts and my drier.
To the left is that black hood I picked up a long time ago in my 95.
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Friday, the 11th I didn’t get too much done as I’m kind of stuck waiting on parts or searching for information. I did get my aluminum hex tubing in the mail from RacePartsUSA. I was very surprised how quickly everything arrived as I talked to him on Wednesday the 9th right around 4:30pm and the parts got here on the morning of the 11th.
Much like I thought my LCA tubing ended up anodized, but the PHR one didn’t for some odd reason. I’m still unsure whether I am going to paint it black with the rear or polish it. With the tubing in hand I decided to go ahead and thread all of the Spohn del spheres onto the tubing. I have to admit that the right and left handed threads messed me up at first. I was thinking that for some odd reason I messed up my order. I started with the PHR tubing and everything went in really easy. It looks pretty pimp even in it’s current state:
After that I started threading the del spheres on the LCA tubing. Upon getting everything installed I noticed that they seemed pretty long and had a lot of unthreaded length. I have an extra set of OEM LCAs and my Wolfe offset LCAs in the garage. I decided to set the Wolfe’s and my new aluminum ones next to each other. Sure enough as I sat them next to each other the new ones were noticeably longer.
I decided to measure them length wise from bolt hole to bolt hole. The Wolfes measured out at 19.5 inches (same as my OEM ones) and my new ones measured 21 inches. I knew that the extra length would cause issues so I measured both tubes again. Both the Wolfes and my new LCA tubes measured out to 16 inches in length so that wasn’t the issue. I immediately knew that the extra threaded bolt length of the del spheres was what was causing the issue.
I threaded the del sphere all the way back into the rod and tightened down the jam nut as a measuring point. I then pulled it off and measured. The LCA tube is threaded 1.75 inches deep and the del sphere has 2.5 inches of thread. That extra .75 inches of length of unthreaded material was what was causing them to be too long.
I then decided for kicks to pull off one of the Wolfe rod ends and I noticed it was much shorter right away.
I guess the guys at RacePartsUSA deal with rod ends which have a much shorter overall thread length. I would say if you guys are ordering tubing and planning on using del spheres ask for it to be threaded around 2.75 inches deep per side to make sure that they will thread in completely. I would also suggest if you desire to swap your current rod ended LCAs or PHR for del spheres to go to the hardware store, buy a 3 inch ¾-16 bolt, and use it to test the threaded depth of your tubing before spending $51 per del sphere / spacer combo. This will let you know if you will be set to go before spending a decent amount of money. For me now that I already have everything I am planning on Monday to go to Sears to buy some tools including a roughly 3 inch ¾-16 tap to put an extra .75-1 inch of threads in my LCA tubing.
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All I really on Saturday, the 12th was work. I worked from 11pm Friday night until 7am Saturday morning, left for less than 8 hours, and then worked from 3pm to 11pm the same day. I was woken up by my postman who happens to be my neighbor knocking on my door around 1pm. I staggered out there and found part of my ebony interior leather wrapping kit from Specialized Stainless. I just set it aside and went back to sleep. When I got home around 11:45pm I decided to open it up. Inside was the all of the tools minus the roller and leather material, instructions and my shifter plaque. I was a little unsure of the firebird logo on the shifter plaque at first, but upon seeing it I really like it.
Wrapping kit tools:
Shifter Plaque:
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06-15-2010, 06:17 PM
#179
I didn’t get anything done yesterday the 13th, but today the 14th I did. I pretty much committed today to shopping locally for all of the tools and random things that I am going to need to work on the car. I made a trip to Sears, Wal-Mart aka super hickville, and Home Depot.
Before I left home I found a couple boxes outside. One was the material roller from Specialized Stainless and the other was my box of missing parts from Speed Inc. that I ordered on the 13th of May. I opened up the box from Speed Inc. first and it contained my poly sway bar end links, 1 motor mount, and Lingenfelter conversion box. I flipped through the 15 page converter box instruction manual real quick and it seems like it is going to be more complicated than I originally thought. The thing that kind of annoyed me is that for some odd reason they only sent me one poly motor mount…. I have no clue what I am going to do with one motor mount, but continue to wait. After a month of waiting it is kind of annoying and I am going to have to call them tomorrow and ask why I only got one motor mount. Here are the parts from Speed Inc.
After I went through the boxes of parts I went down to the garage and grabbed my aluminum hex tubing and hopped in my car. The closest Sears is about 20-25 minutes away so I don’t ever really go there unless I have to. I decided that today was going to be a pre emptive trip, I was really looking for a ¾-16 tap, but for some odd reason they didn’t have it either. I am going to have to order one and wait for it to get here. Anyways, I ended up spending a small fortune at Sears on tools. I decided it was time to step up over my 50 something travel size tool kit and brought home quite the hall.
Next on my list of places to go was Wal-Mart aka super hickville, a place that I absolutely hate going to. I made my journey through that giant hell as quickly as I could. I ended up picking up a spray bottle, large brush, black fabric dye, some gloss black Rustoleum paint, and a brush for it. I was looking for POR15 that I’ve read so much on here about, but ended up going with the Rustoleum as that was all I could find there. I think it’ll work just find.
I was going to go to a small local hobby store as I like supporting small businesses more than giant chains like super hickville, but they had closed right before I got there. I ended up going to the Home Depot by my house to pick up the rest of things as I won’t have time to do much of anything tomorrow. At Home Depot I bought some methyl ethyl keton MEK, a heat gun, an xacto knife, and some extra blades for it.
The spray bottle, large brush, and black fabric dye will be for dying my grey carpet and hopefully headliner black. I bought the Rustoleum paint for painting my rear end, PHR, and sway bars. The MEK, heat gun, and xacto knife are for wrapping all of my interior panels in leather. The haul:
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To reiterate some of the questions I’ve accrued so far:
In regards to my wiring debacle.
1. Could someone with a 98+ take a picture of their keyless entry module, the plugs that go into it, and post it or PM it to me?
2. Anyone know how much those things cost?
3. If my 95 has one then I should theoretically have keyless entry? I have an extra key fob. Would I just have to go through the programming process?
Valve Drop Questons.
1. I've never measured this before what so ever so let me know if my numbers sound about right.
2.055 Intake valve = 1.000 - .847 = .153 with .002 showing on the gauge instead of zero when I released the compressor from the spring completely.
1.600 Exhaust valve = 1.000 - .805 = .195 with .0015 showing on the gauge instead of zero when I released the compressor from the spring completely.
Before I left home I found a couple boxes outside. One was the material roller from Specialized Stainless and the other was my box of missing parts from Speed Inc. that I ordered on the 13th of May. I opened up the box from Speed Inc. first and it contained my poly sway bar end links, 1 motor mount, and Lingenfelter conversion box. I flipped through the 15 page converter box instruction manual real quick and it seems like it is going to be more complicated than I originally thought. The thing that kind of annoyed me is that for some odd reason they only sent me one poly motor mount….
I have no clue what I am going to do with one motor mount, but continue to wait. After a month of waiting it is kind of annoying and I am going to have to call them tomorrow and ask why I only got one motor mount. Here are the parts from Speed Inc.After I went through the boxes of parts I went down to the garage and grabbed my aluminum hex tubing and hopped in my car. The closest Sears is about 20-25 minutes away so I don’t ever really go there unless I have to. I decided that today was going to be a pre emptive trip, I was really looking for a ¾-16 tap, but for some odd reason they didn’t have it either. I am going to have to order one and wait for it to get here. Anyways, I ended up spending a small fortune at Sears on tools. I decided it was time to step up over my 50 something travel size tool kit and brought home quite the hall.
Next on my list of places to go was Wal-Mart aka super hickville, a place that I absolutely hate going to. I made my journey through that giant hell as quickly as I could. I ended up picking up a spray bottle, large brush, black fabric dye, some gloss black Rustoleum paint, and a brush for it. I was looking for POR15 that I’ve read so much on here about, but ended up going with the Rustoleum as that was all I could find there. I think it’ll work just find.
I was going to go to a small local hobby store as I like supporting small businesses more than giant chains like super hickville, but they had closed right before I got there. I ended up going to the Home Depot by my house to pick up the rest of things as I won’t have time to do much of anything tomorrow. At Home Depot I bought some methyl ethyl keton MEK, a heat gun, an xacto knife, and some extra blades for it.
The spray bottle, large brush, and black fabric dye will be for dying my grey carpet and hopefully headliner black. I bought the Rustoleum paint for painting my rear end, PHR, and sway bars. The MEK, heat gun, and xacto knife are for wrapping all of my interior panels in leather. The haul:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
To reiterate some of the questions I’ve accrued so far:
In regards to my wiring debacle.
1. Could someone with a 98+ take a picture of their keyless entry module, the plugs that go into it, and post it or PM it to me?
2. Anyone know how much those things cost?
3. If my 95 has one then I should theoretically have keyless entry? I have an extra key fob. Would I just have to go through the programming process?
Valve Drop Questons.
1. I've never measured this before what so ever so let me know if my numbers sound about right.
2.055 Intake valve = 1.000 - .847 = .153 with .002 showing on the gauge instead of zero when I released the compressor from the spring completely.
1.600 Exhaust valve = 1.000 - .805 = .195 with .0015 showing on the gauge instead of zero when I released the compressor from the spring completely.
06-18-2010, 07:27 PM
#180
On the 16th I got a couple things in the mail. The first was my door panel inserts that I bought on here recently. They are a black carbon fiber vinyl. They have a rather subtle look to them from a far, but when you look at them closer they have a nice weave to them.
Insert:
Zoom:
I also received a really large roll of ebony leather from Specialized Stainless. I was a little unsure of if I wanted to go through all of the work of wrapping everything, but after seeing the material I think it'll be way worth it.
Later that night I went through the pain in the *** process of installing this engine stand. The directions on it sucked ***, but it was pretty straight forward. The rear wheels don't fit very well either, but hopefully I won't have to move it too much.
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Yesterday, the 17th was an adventure. I got a call from the freight company on the 16th while I was at work that my dash had arrived. I didn't have time that day to go pick it up so I went yesterday. I really had no clue where the place was so I gave them a call and got their address. I put the address into google maps on my phone to get directions. For some odd reason every time I put in the address it changed it to Rail Trail Road. I figured that must be correct and it was kind of close to where he told me they were located.
It came up as a 36 mile trip which seemed a little far. I then proceeded to drive out there and as I was closing in on the final destination the less and less plausible it seemed that I was going the correct way. I was driving by trailer parks in the middle of no where with old rusted cars and chickens in the yards. The last three turns I made were all dirt roads and Rail Trail Road ended up being someone's one lane dirt driveway with no tresspassing signs all over it. I decided to promptly get out of there and back to the last gas station I saw. Once I got there I called them again and got directions. I ended up being about 12-15 miles away from the freight depot.
When I finally got there they pulled around a giant pallet with my new dashboard, pad, and bolts in it. I wish I had taken a picture of the pallet and boxes the guy who shipped it made because it was rather impressive. I pulled it all out and loaded into the back of my Mom's car and headed towards home. On my way back I stopped by Sears again to trade something out and buy some other things. Here's what I picked up:
Here's the dash related parts in the back of my Mom's car:
I left rather early around 2pm and by the time I got home around 6pm a package had arrived. Inside was my new ebony a pillars and t top latch holders:
Later that night I unpacked everything, stashed it away, and started working on getting an accurate piston out of the hole measurement. Last time I did it I measured four times and got three different results. The first time I ended up with .008, .011, .012, and .011 again. I used a different mounting spot this time and ended up with getting .011 again and .007. I am thinking that I am going to just take an average of all of them and play the head gasket safe around an extra .005ish to not bring things too close.
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Today, I finally got a chance to give Speed Inc. a call and get my motor mount issue squared away. For some odd reason when I originally called and placed my order I was only charged for one motor mount and that's what they shipped. I don't know what I am supposed to do with one motor mount, but the other will get shipped out Monday as it isn't in stock and get here around Thursday or Friday of next week.
I've also been continuing my back and forth messaging with Patrick G about cam design. The choice has been made to flycut the intake valve side and remill the heads. That'll put me with the proper clearance I need on the intake side and allow me to reach my compression goals. I'm going to try and get a bunch of things squared away this weekend work wise and order the remaining parts to assemble the engine on Monday.
Insert:
Zoom:
I also received a really large roll of ebony leather from Specialized Stainless. I was a little unsure of if I wanted to go through all of the work of wrapping everything, but after seeing the material I think it'll be way worth it.
Later that night I went through the pain in the *** process of installing this engine stand. The directions on it sucked ***, but it was pretty straight forward. The rear wheels don't fit very well either, but hopefully I won't have to move it too much.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yesterday, the 17th was an adventure. I got a call from the freight company on the 16th while I was at work that my dash had arrived. I didn't have time that day to go pick it up so I went yesterday. I really had no clue where the place was so I gave them a call and got their address. I put the address into google maps on my phone to get directions. For some odd reason every time I put in the address it changed it to Rail Trail Road. I figured that must be correct and it was kind of close to where he told me they were located.
It came up as a 36 mile trip which seemed a little far. I then proceeded to drive out there and as I was closing in on the final destination the less and less plausible it seemed that I was going the correct way. I was driving by trailer parks in the middle of no where with old rusted cars and chickens in the yards. The last three turns I made were all dirt roads and Rail Trail Road ended up being someone's one lane dirt driveway with no tresspassing signs all over it. I decided to promptly get out of there and back to the last gas station I saw. Once I got there I called them again and got directions. I ended up being about 12-15 miles away from the freight depot.
When I finally got there they pulled around a giant pallet with my new dashboard, pad, and bolts in it. I wish I had taken a picture of the pallet and boxes the guy who shipped it made because it was rather impressive. I pulled it all out and loaded into the back of my Mom's car and headed towards home. On my way back I stopped by Sears again to trade something out and buy some other things. Here's what I picked up:
Here's the dash related parts in the back of my Mom's car:
I left rather early around 2pm and by the time I got home around 6pm a package had arrived. Inside was my new ebony a pillars and t top latch holders:
Later that night I unpacked everything, stashed it away, and started working on getting an accurate piston out of the hole measurement. Last time I did it I measured four times and got three different results. The first time I ended up with .008, .011, .012, and .011 again. I used a different mounting spot this time and ended up with getting .011 again and .007. I am thinking that I am going to just take an average of all of them and play the head gasket safe around an extra .005ish to not bring things too close.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Today, I finally got a chance to give Speed Inc. a call and get my motor mount issue squared away. For some odd reason when I originally called and placed my order I was only charged for one motor mount and that's what they shipped. I don't know what I am supposed to do with one motor mount, but the other will get shipped out Monday as it isn't in stock
and get here around Thursday or Friday of next week.I've also been continuing my back and forth messaging with Patrick G about cam design. The choice has been made to flycut the intake valve side and remill the heads. That'll put me with the proper clearance I need on the intake side and allow me to reach my compression goals. I'm going to try and get a bunch of things squared away this weekend work wise and order the remaining parts to assemble the engine on Monday.