Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I have another quick little update.

It seems the guy I bought my transmission from finally shipped it today after near three weeks of delays. It should be at it's destination tomorrow to get fiddled with. I'm pretty excited as I've been stressing about that a lot recently.

On the 8th I also received my shift boot and metal shift boot ring from Redline Goods. I haven't had time to install it yet as I had to stay late three nights in a row a work, but I'm going to try and get it in tonight or in one of the next upcoming days. Here's a couple quick pictures of it:



I'm going to wrap as many of the interior panels as I can with the ebony leather and then have the shift boot and the door panels in CF material. Here's the door panel inserts compared to the shift boot. The boot is a little bit darker, but I think it'll look awesome!

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

New items for sale thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...l#post14301250

Support the build and get some parts at a great price.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

My new battery box showed up today from jegs. I ended up ordering the Taylor battery box in satin. I measured about 8 times to make sure it fits. I didn't take someone's word on it this time and end up with $100 hunk of plastic I can't use like last time. I have the next few days off of work so I'm looking to get some wiring work done.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I got working on the car again Tuesday night. I hadn't realized that the last time I did anything to the car was three months ago. Obviously, I've been slacking. I'm going to start working on the car every week now on my days off of work. Since they changed our schedule I get three days off a week now so I should have a lot more time to work on the car.

I mentioned earlier about buying the Taylor battery box and saying it would fit. Well,.... it doesn't. It is the smallest NHRA approved battery box I could find and the damn thing still doesn't fit. It is really close, but just a touch too long. Here's a picture of my battery in the box:

For some odd reason they make them absolutely massive. If I could find a box around the same size + 2" / side of the battery it would fit.

Here's the battery in the spare tire well.

I ended up just perching it on a cardboard box so I could get everything wired up.

I used the Moroso battery cables that I got with my original order from Speed Inc. It includes all of the 2ga wire, terminal ends, and heat shrink tubing. I ran the wire through the car, behind the sail panel, under the kick panel, through the oem grommet in the firewall, and into the engine bay:






After I got all the wiring run through the car I started on adding the terminal ends where I had to cut the cable. I don't know what you guys use to cut this size wire, but I had a hell of a time getting through it. Tools:

I mostly used the dykes to flatten the cable and then the scissors to cut through it. Pain in the *** and took forever.

Working from the front of the car backwards was the logical way everything progressed and it went pretty smoothly until I got to the new 200amp fuse. The fuse holder has relatively short posts on the end of it. With some of the washers removed and the nuts on there isn't much thread engagement holding everything together:

Up until now it hasn't been a problem and seems to be on there decently snug. I think I may try to find some longer studs though for it.

I just kind of kept snipping away and here's everything hooked up in the trunk:

I'm going to mount the fuse to the wheel tub once I get the Wolfe ones in there.


The grounding position I have is currently working fine, but I'm thinking about moving it over to the hole to the left of where it is currently mounted.

This is how I rigged up the main positive wire as a temp fix:


Power! It works and nothing caught on fire or blew out.


More...

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Wednesday, I started off by going to the local hardware store to find some random fasteners. I had a really good idea for mounting my passenger side cover using pre existing holes and threaded body mounts. I took the OEM coolant overflow fasteners to the store and figured out they are M8x1.25. Before that I measured that I would need a 4'' long bolt to make everything the right height (3" off of the frame) that I wanted. I managed to track down some bolts in the right length, some washers, and nuts that ended up working out perfectly with some revisions.


I also picked up a new M10 battery bolt and some fasteners to mount the driver's side cover.

Bolts compared to the stockers:


The oem coolant overflow is 1'' thick so:

Is perfect for what I wanted.

Here's the first effort at mounting everything that had some issues:




Mounted:

It mounted up well, but the problems I had were all in tightening down the bottom nut to hold down the overflow tank and the nut that helped sandwich the acrylic between the fasteners.

Instead I decided to flip the bolts upside down and turn them into a stud:


The problem was the other one mounts right above where the frame is boxed in. I ended up having to mount that one the opposite way and it worked, but was a PITA.

I'm going to end up cutting the head off of the other bolt to turn it into a stud and then threading it into the frame. That way both bolts will be the same and make everything easy to mount and work on.

I got the new M10 battery bolt holding everything in. It is the same thread as the factory bolt so I don't really need the lock nut, but I added it for some extra security:


This was my last idea for relocating the negative OEM ground off of the shock tower and out of sight.


More...

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Yesterday / Thursday I finally got the car out of the garage for its first complete bath in since 7-29-08. Needless to say after sitting outside for a couple years and then being stashed in my garage the car was incredibly dirty. I know this sounds a little odd, but the major problem is that my AC / heat doesn't work correctly in my apartment. The AC unit is in a closet that is directly above my car. It took us a long time to figure it out, but the AC leaks a massive amount of water when it runs and was flooding our carpet. I didn't think about it until I was rewiring the car early last year and was getting dripped on with the T top off. Naturally, the water drips down into the garage and my car happens to be below it:

Ceiling:


Car:





Finally completely clean and super sexy. This is why I love this car:



I had washed the back half of the car before as our hose only reaches so far through the garage, but never the front.

I was determined to get all of the leaves and other gunk out of the cowling from sitting at my friend's old shop for so long. If anyone's attempted to get the cowling and windshield wipers off you know how much of a pain in the *** it is to do. I got all of the push pins out without breaking my windshield (like I did on my 93), but couldn't get the wipers off.

I went to my class and came back later to work on it. I was kind of running out of ideas until I saw my cheapo pulley puller from Advanced Discount Auto. Rigged as an attempt:


Blamo, like a ******* champ:

The thing came right off. If you ever have to do this spend the $10 to make your life easier.

Once I got the wipers off my last problem was the wiper fluid line. I couldn't get the sprayer fittings off of the line to save my life and ended up breaking both of them. Thankfully, I was able to pillage them off of my 93 which no longer has this amenity.





With the cowling finally off here's what I found:

Gross...

I'm going to get it vaccuumed out sometime soon on my next bit of free time.

I then moved onto getting that last factory ground moved out of the way. I went back to the hardware store and found an M6 stud, a couple nuts, and a fender washer to righ it all up. Versus OEM:


OEM:


Installed:

It is going to be completely out of sight once I can finish my cover.

I was going to finish it, but my dad didn't bring home his dremel tool like I asked him to. Instead I decided to move onto trying to make the bracket for the driver's side. I had purchased a 1/16th piece of aluminum angle that I was going to trim and cut into a large C esque shape to hold the acrylic up. Here's kind of what I imagined:


With the tools I had available to me it didn't work out so great:


I have my next few tasks layed out before me for my next available free time.
1. Vaccuum cowling out
2. Cut the head off of the passenger side bolt = stud
3. Make driver's side standoff
4. Passenger window rewire kit

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I started working on the car pretty early around 8pm last night as I had to make some noise and it worked out really well. I ended up getting pretty much everything I had planned for the next couple days done which I wasn't expecting.

During the day I went to the hardware store again and picked up a 4.5 cutting wheel, a new piece of 1/8th aluminum bar stock, and a new 500W bulb. I started off my night by cutting the head off of the other bolt that is used to hold down my passenger side cover.

After the head of the bolt was gone I just threaded it into the hole and mocked everything up.

I wanted to finish all of the noisy things first so out came the vacuum and cleaned out the cowling.

Looks a lot better.

With the passenger side done I moved onto the driver side. I used a bench vise to hold down the aluminum and bend it. The first attempt didn't go so great and back to the drawing board I went. Attempt 1:

I tried to bend the bottom tab the other way 180* and it just broke like I thought it would.

Attempt 2: Mounted

I drilled a 3/8ths hole through the bracket and body to mount the point closest to the fender. It has an M10 bolt going through it with a washer and wing nut on the bottom. The other side is held in with a 1/4 headed self tapping screw. I screwed the top screw down a little too tight and cracked the acrylic a little, but I think it will be fine once it gets painted.

Here's both covers mounted right at 3.5'' tall off of the frame. I think it looks really good and will look ever better once the edges are smoothed out and the covers painted MTM to match.


Once that was all finished I moved onto wiring up my Autotrix passenger rewire kit. It is all really straight forward, but I had a couple of snags. The first major snag was trying to get the wires though the pass through that the rest of the OEM wiring runs through. Since my 93 is right next to my Formula I couldn't open the door all of the way to make it a straight shot. With the angle I was given I couldn't get the wires through the door without some work. I ended up having to pull the blower motor out which was on my list of things to do anyways and of course it was full of...

Leaves!

Once I got that out of the way here's what I managed to finally jam through the door after a bunch of sweating and bad words:

Other side:


After that it was just getting everything wired up. They provide crimp connectors in the kit and I have to say that wiring this has renewed my hate in them. These were also the first relays I've ever wired so it took me a while to figure out which wire goes where, the colors, and fitting the plug esque things together. Here's the door area finished:


The power and ground wire just ran through the OEM firewall grommet. I have the OEM wires, my 2ga battery wire, and now these two wires going through it. It is getting a little busy:


I ran the power wire through the OEM wire loom as much as I could until I got around the head lights and pretty much said F this as it was getting impossible. I ended up just running the wire behind the loom under the hood latch and taped it to the loom. You can't see anything so it looks like nothing is there. Then, I just connected the inline fuse setup to the OEM power stud on the fuse panel. It was a little pain since I moved the fuse panel, but the largest problem was getting the nut off the stud. Wired:


My battery isn't fully charged, but the window freaking flies up and down. It actually made the driver's motor look like it was dying. It is a pretty cool little kit and for the money hard to beat. The only thing I have to go back and redo is the power wire over the passenger shock tower. Since I plan on doing the wire tuck I would have to undo the fuse end, drag it back across the front of the car, under the shock tower, and then reroute it the way I have it now. I'm just planning on instead cutting the wire and adding a single wire weather pack connector that'll connect beneath the shock tower out of sight.

Next on the list of things to do is:
- Single wire weather pack connector for the passenger window rewire power wire
- BLS HID low and high beam install
- Passenger side wire tuck
- Possibly rigging up a set of OEM C6 low beams as my fog lights

I should get some more stuff done tonight.

OrlandoMachine

I had an oil pump fail, heart breaker. I agree with the iron block route, cheap and easy to find.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

^ I was originally searching around for an LS2, but I've had two 6.0 iron blocks along the way. What's going to go in there now is the L92 short block sitting in my garage.

The past few days have been really productive where as last week was not. I was planning on starting my BLS installation last Monday the 31st, but had one part missing from the box. Then, the next day for some odd reason I woke up projectile vomiting and was disabled with the stomach flu for the next couple days. Brian was a shipping ninja and got me the missing part super quick. By the time I was feeling better I had to work again so on Tuesday of this week I started assembling everything.

Tuesday, was mostly just reading through the directions, getting the old lights out, and the new projectors assembled. I took a couple before pictures of the OEM lights for future comparison sake. My car unless I push it doesn't move so the after pictures will be same spot.

Here are the lows:


Highs:


Once those were taken I started pulling everything apart. In the beginning I just removed the passenger side and then went back to the drivers. It would be easier to pull them all at once. Out:


Here's the projectors in the process of assembly:


I had a couple questions for Brian at BLS and shot him an email. It ended up that my thinking was correct and the lock washers still go on the high beams. Pictured:


After that I just kept plugging away and eventually got all of the projectors together:


With that out of the way the next major task was getting all of the wiring for the kit in the car. The major part of the wiring:


I checked out the installation CD and saw that I didn't really like the way the wiring was run. With my relocated fuse boxes and engine covers I'd have wiring all over the place. I started thinking about mounting the harness beneath the drivers headlight. I got the harness in there and twiddled with it a little before I decided I needed to go to sleep.

More...

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Wednesday, I picked up right where I left off and spent all night getting the wiring in the car the way I wanted it. The first thing I did was clip the extra wiring off of the HID bulbs. They come with an extra connector that you can use if you're not going to use the BLS harness. I'm not a big fan of extra wiring and weight conscious so in came the wire cutters:


The next step may sound a little odd for working on your headlights, but I jacked up the car and removed the drivers front wheel. I was trying to drill a self tapping screw into the frame through the open head light area and / getting angry / wasting time. You can see the small self tapping screw in the radiator support. There was already an existing hole there that was smaller than the OD of the screw so I just decided to go ahead and use it:




While I was in that area I kept knocking my arm against this damn extra part of the front bumper / fender connector plate. What the hell is this thing sticking out?

I'm thinking about cutting it flat once I pull the front bumper off for some / cutting /

Here is the bottom view of the relay mounted:


This is the top view of the same thing. You can see two of the wires running through the top part of the radiator support. Those are the power and ground wires:


Power and ground:

The ground wire is further away and the power is closer.

Once those were in I found a nice out of the way place to mount the ballasts. Most people from what I have seen so far like to mount them inside of the front bumper support. That's all fine except I plan on removing mine and installing a new setup made out of aluminum. With that option removed I decided to mount the ballast right around the relay on the frame rail. The first time I mounted it I wasn't too happy with the size of the velcro supplied with the kit. I kind of installed it off center and once I stuck the ballast it would rock and potentially make a rattling sound. I don't know if driving the car I would be able to hear it or not so I nixed it anyways. I had some larger velcro that I bought a while ago for my passenger side wiring tuck. Much larger:

I then stuck the whole piece to the car even though it was longer than the ballast. The thing is rock solid and not even remotely going to go anywhere:

Once that was mounted I jammed the rest of the wiring for the passenger side between the radiator shrouding and the wiper fluid bottle. It was a pain in the *** to fit it through there with the connectors, but after some choice words got it through there. I taped it all up to the OEM wiring as much as I could. You can barely see the ends where it runs over the frame rails, but that was impossible to avoid. I had to pull the washer bottle out a little to give myself some more space, but here it is:






Over the passenger side frame rail:


I was planning on mounting the ballast for the passenger side in the same spot as the drivers side, but the horn was in the way. Normally, that would mean it goes in the garbage pile, but I need the horn for those choice 3 honking moments. Instead I decided to make a new bracket to mount the horn out of the way. Anyone remember this old piece of aluminum from a couple weeks ago?

Well, as sure as I thought I was able to turn around and use it. I drilled a couple holes through it as well as my thumb. ouch... Mounted:

Despite it being late I decided to break out the impact on this one. I wasn't going to sit there for 20 minutes trying to tighten it down in a small space like that.


Once the horn was out of the way I mounted the ballast with both pieces of velcro supplied in the BLS kit, zip tied part of the low beam wiring to the horn, and plugged in the high beam adapters. Here's the passenger side all wrapped up:


Driver side all wrapped up. I added a zip tie to the relay. I would hate for that to come unplugged when I was driving for some odd reason:


I went though all of this work for the main reason of keeping everything out of sight and here's the finished wiring. Everything fits beneath my driver side cover and the ground wire will be beneath the lid holder once it is bolted down keeping all of the wiring hidden:


More...

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

With the projectors all assembled and the wiring in the car all I had left to do was mount the hardware and set the cutoff. I had a couple hours before I had my BJJ class so I decided to get the projectors mounted in the car and wired for power. The funny thing about working on cars is that after some time you should come to expect the easiest things to be not so easy and potentially a total pain in the *** taking way more time than you expected.

The first step of mounting the projectors is to slide a 10/24ths flat washer over the oem adjustment bolt. You'd think that should take less than a second to slide a washer over a bolt. For some odd reason the ID of the washer wasn't the same on all of the washers. On exaclty half of them it was off just a little tiny bit, but it was enough to cause it to not want to go over the bolt. You can see in this picture how the washer has removed a layer of material from every thread that it has passed over.

On the first one (the one above) I threaded the whole thing on there by hand and my fingers are still hating me for it. The rest of them I ended up threading it on part of the way, using my impact to thread the bolt into the nut on the car, and squishing the washer to the head of the bolt.

The next snafu that struck me was that when I assembled one of the projectors the projector cover was tightened down too far towards the bottom. It wouldn't allow me to get the long bolt through it when I had it mounted in the car. There just wasn't enough of an angle to get it through the hole. I ended up having to remove the projector from the car, loosen the four bolts, slide it up, retighten them, and reinstall. No bueno:


Bueno :


I figured after that all I had to do was screw down 3 bolts per projector and connect four plugs. In reality, I did, but again that wonderful misnomer came back to bite me. After adjustiing the misaligned projector I went to thread in the long bolt that replaces the OEM springs. Getting two springs on the bolt when you can't see what you're doing at all in a tiny space was the first major pain in the ***. Once I got them on there and jammed the bolt through the OEM hole I couldn't thread the nut onto the end of it. There was just absolutely zero space as the threads of the bolt were all the way to the side of the headlight bucket. I know this is a crappy picture, but it is in a crappy position where you can barely see what you're doing so getting a good picture is impossible.

You can see the way the bucket kicks out a little right near the end of the bolt. I ended up having to remove the other two bolts that I had just installed, jam the bolt through the hole as far as I could and thread the nut on there. This picture illustrates the amount of space I'm talking about:

From the front:


After fighting through the same problem on the other three projectors I connected all of the wiring and checked the headlights for clearance. While I was installing them I thought there was no was what so ever that these things were going to clear, but... They fit with about a hair of space through there. Driver:


Passenger:


I fought with screwing the headlights down by twisting the **** with my fingers for a little while and got extremely annoyed. It would have taken my all day to do it by hand so instead I decided to improvise:

Impact + extension + 3/8ths nut driver = like a champ. I can zip the lights up and down in less than 20 seconds.

With all of the clearances set and the wiring hooked up all I had left to do was reconnect the battery and check them out. This is the light output of just the driver low beam:


Low + High (keep in mind none of these lights are aimed. This is just how they ended up)


Both side low beams:

The light output is absolutely amazing to say the least (There's also a 500W light on in the back ground). My jaw pretty much dropped and after all of the work getting these things in I will say that it is 100% worth it.

I did then run into a couple other issues. I had the low beams on and as soon as I flipped the high beams on my car lost all electrical power. I thought that I blew my main power fuse or that I lost the headlight fuse. I checked them all, they were fine so I went over and checked all of my connections which also turned out fine. I pulled the battery cable and tried to reconnect it to no avail. By the time the power went out I needed to be getting ready. After not getting it to work with the battery I decided to pack up and call it quits. For some odd reason though I left all of my stuff that I had to take upstairs next to the battery so when I walked by I had to try it once more. Upon hooking up the cable electrical power was restored. I flipped the headlights on again, they came on, flipped the highs, they came on, but after a few seconds the lights started to flicker. I made a dash for the headlight switch, but power went out again before I could turn them off.

Right before class I shot Brian at BLS an email asking him what he thought. We thought right along the same lines as a voltage issue. My battery is as far as I know 4 years old and has been sitting in my car the past 3.5+ doing nothing. I think I just ran it dead, but when I hooked the charger up it won't charge over 20%ish. I'm not sure if it is the charger or the battery, but either way I won't be testing the lights again until I can either get a new battery or jump the battery off of my 95 like I did when I finsihed repinning the harness.

The next couple of tasks I'm going to work on in my free time are:
- Aiming the headlights
- Passenger side wire tuck / cutting + resoldering passenger window rewire kit power wire
- Figuring out some sort of HID Formula fog lights

I'm also going to need a lot of help coming up with figuring out how to wire my battery cutoff switch, fuel pumps, and nitrous system together. I really have no clue on that one.

Trevor.j

iTrader: (10)

Damn keep up the good work!! Been reading your thread for a while now!

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Thanks, I've been doing my best to get somethings done. I actually think that if I can sell most of the extra parts I have and keep up my productivity it might actually hit the road towards the end of the year. Its kind of wishful thinking, but we'll see.

SILVER 2288 SS

iTrader: (1)

hell yeah man ive been reading this thread since it started im glad to see that progress is coming along man whenever you get ready to get the motor in if u ned ne help i could use a vacation from work if you could use a hand

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I'm hoping to get a little bit more done come Wednesday and Thursday, but it is mostly going to be little things. I'm at a point where I need to spend some more money and figure out how to wire a bunch of things.

I was thinking about recruiting a lot of help when it comes time to do the front end. I'm going to need it. I was thinking BBQ / engine install day.

SILVER 2288 SS

iTrader: (1)

just lmk man im down for a drive if i can get the time off

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

I kind of hit a road block where I needed to order some parts to get things done in the right order. I've had a lot of little deliveries come in, but am still waiting on a few parts to get everything started.

I started a new items for sale thread. Support the builds and buy parts at a great price:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...dom-parts.html

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Work shall commence again tomororw. In the past couple weeks I've received:

- Pioneer AVIC-D3 and all the goodies for it
- Steering wheel control adapter
- 6Litereater double din bezel
- Adapter harness plug

- Battery tray
- Optima Red Top
- Relay for battery cutoff
- Battery cable terminal ends
- Battery cutoff switch and face plate label

- New DRL housings
- Replacement foglight housings (were advertised as 93-97 housings, but weren't)
- Clear DRL bulbs
- 50W reverse light bulbs

- I'm still waiting on my DDM Tuning HID setup for my fog lights, but I knew at the time that it was going to take a while.

I need to go to the hardware store tomorrow to pick up some wiring ring ends, spade connectors, heat shrink tubing, aluminum sheet, and some fasteners. The goal for tomorrow is to get the battery and cutoff switch mounted in the spare tire well to where the factory plastic piece will fit without issues. Keep your fingers crossed as this is the third battery container I'll have tried.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

These next few updates wouldn’t be coming to you if it wasn’t for 9sec93. I was searching old threads for information on battery relocation wiring. I found an old diagram he put up a few years ago and shot him a PM about how to set it up and a few other odd questions. He answered everything I sent him instantly and actually sent me a direct link to the battery cutoff switch he was talking about.

I bought the switch instantly, and started finally filling out the Jegs exchange form for my Taylor battery box. I ordered a new Optima red top battery, Jegs battery tray, terminal ends, and a SPST relay. The stuff got here super quick and ended up being cheaper than was initially anticipated which was a huge bonus.

With all of that stuff finally figured out I got started on mocking everything up. The battery tray and red top fit in there very well and my plan is to fabricate a bulkhead to make it all NHRA legal. I jammed the tray in there with the battery and tried to figure out how I wanted to mount it to the frame. The tray has four 1-2’’ holes on each side, but mounting it to a rectangular boxed frame was going to be next to impossible. I decided to hold off until I got the mini tubs in the car and had all of the spacing figured out exactly. The plan is to weld two L shaped brackets to the frame. Each L will have two 3-8’’ths bolts per side welded to the L for the tray to mount to. That was the tray will be removable instead of permanently mounted.

I started working on this all Tuesday night after I got home and it took me a while to figure out all of the dimensions of how I wanted to mount everything. I was going to make a trip to ACE Hardware, but they close at 8pm so I had to make an inadequate journey to Home Depot instead… I found most of the things I was looking for and had to improvise on others which didn’t turn out too well. When I got home I started bending up some scrap aluminum I had to make something to hold the battery cutoff switch. I got the thing all bent up and then started looking around for a way to mount the switch. Upon putting it next to the switch I instantly realized that I was supposed to mount the switch 3’’ from where the bracket mounts to the frame. Instead, being a retard I didn’t think about the switch sticking out a ways and ended up with it only being about 1.5’’ away from the frame.

Doh!

I figured I could just bend the mount I was making for the switch back a little more. I ended up making the initial mount out of Aluminum as Home Depot didn’t have any steel plate. This ended up being a disaster that I completely ended up having to redo. Here are some pictures of the debacle:



The mounting post for the cutoff switch is 3-4ths, but I only had a 3-8ths drill bit. I tried to wallow the hole out, cut it open further after that failed, and with each attempt getting more pissed off. It ended up being a disaster and I threw it in my scrap pile.

After that disaster I figured I could just add an extra bend to the bracket that would step it out that extra 1.5 inches.

Getting that bent again I decided to give up and start on it as early as I could the next day.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Wednesday, was the first of my three days off of work so I was mostly trying to get all sorts of other things out of the way so I could spend the next couple working on the car. I did cram in a little bit of work and a very important piece of the reassembly puzzle also showed up.

Obviously, it is a transmission. Try and figure out what’s inside of it. There will be hints, but the first is that it is a Frankenstein creation and one badass transmission.

This was extremely difficult to get out of the tub.


Hmmm… That looks a little different




Hint… Hint… Hint…


Mega Hint… Hint… Hint…

All of the shipping agents who work in my area know my house and the fact that there are large heavy items shipped there all the time. My mailman is actually my neighbor and the UPS guy has been working the same route as far as I can remember. The UPS guy was really cool and helped my drag the 140lb plastic tub into my garage. I proceeded to slice the **** out of my fingers trying to remove it from the tub myself though.

After getting that situated away next to my short block I finished off my running around with the trip I should have made to ACE Hardware the night before. Of course I found everything I needed there instantly and headed home to try and cram in some work on the car before I had to go. I cut the new battery disconnect switch bracket out of a thick steel plate, drilled a couple holes in it, and bolted it up.

I will need to paint it so it doesn’t rust.


3/8ths SS hardware and lock nuts. Behold pictures in daylight.

After getting this all rushed together I had to get going. I decided to call it early, go to sleep, and wake up earlier to get work done the next day.