This might be a bad Idea, but.......
now being new to turbos i'm not sure how hot the air coming out of a turbo compressor is so my fears may be totally unfounded
An A2W system with a good sized resevoir and an efficient heat exchanger will cool the intake air plenty for daily driving. If you monitor IATs and you need it cooler for the race track, then you add ice to the resevoir and add timing and have at it. You can't do that with A2A.
An A2W system with a good sized resevoir and an efficient heat exchanger will cool the intake air plenty for daily driving. If you monitor IATs and you need it cooler for the race track, then you add ice to the resevoir and add timing and have at it. You can't do that with A2A.
...i still vote for under the hood too LS1 Tech Stories
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I am not trying to cause trouble here but a few guys want to know a bit more about the air to water and air to air comparison.
I found this site that seems to give some pretty good answers.
http://www.bellintercoolers.com/page...FAQ.html#FAQ_5
Now companies that sell air to water only like say Frozen Boost tend to be a lot more pro air to water. The air to water does sound good for drag racing. It is more complicated system however with reservoir, pump,etc.
Their are of course pros and cons with everything.
I found this site that seems to give some pretty good answers.
http://www.bellintercoolers.com/page...FAQ.html#FAQ_5
Now companies that sell air to water only like say Frozen Boost tend to be a lot more pro air to water. The air to water does sound good for drag racing. It is more complicated system however with reservoir, pump,etc.
Their are of course pros and cons with everything.
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
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From: Homestead, FL
There are compromises in every situation, with A/A you have two choices.
1. A front mount that goes in place of the impact beam and you loose your fog lights and or cut up your bumper cover. Most DIY front mounts are this way.
2. Is the APS type where it covers up the AC condenser and radiator.
With this type the air flow to the radiator and AC condenser is compromised
and the radiant heat from the AC condenser and radiator keeps the intercooler hotter than the first option.
3. 2 small A/A’s like Procharger uses. This setup suffers from not enough air flow over the core and the space to get a big enough core mass due to space restrictions.
An A/A core needs to be big and dense as it really is nothing more than a big heat sync.
After it has absorbed all it can take 150 mph of air blasting on it won’t bring the core temp back to ambient temp until you relieve the core by letting off of the gas pedal.
An A/W that will support stupid hp will fit in the bumper cover and not compromise the cooling or AC and you won’t have to cut your bumper cover.
The A/W acts like a big heat sync as well but water has the ability to absorb
huge amounts of energy “heat”.
Basically we choose A/W because it will work better with the constraints that we have placed upon ourselves.
Trust me we didn't want to use A/W it's more expensive and complicated. It raises the price of the kit and it requires more fab time to get the kit out the door.
I will say this though, an old friend once told us "I'd rather explain the price, than apoligize for the quality"
Thanks for reading I know it was a little long.
1. A front mount that goes in place of the impact beam and you loose your fog lights and or cut up your bumper cover. Most DIY front mounts are this way.
2. Is the APS type where it covers up the AC condenser and radiator.
With this type the air flow to the radiator and AC condenser is compromised
and the radiant heat from the AC condenser and radiator keeps the intercooler hotter than the first option.
3. 2 small A/A’s like Procharger uses. This setup suffers from not enough air flow over the core and the space to get a big enough core mass due to space restrictions.
An A/A core needs to be big and dense as it really is nothing more than a big heat sync.
After it has absorbed all it can take 150 mph of air blasting on it won’t bring the core temp back to ambient temp until you relieve the core by letting off of the gas pedal.
An A/W that will support stupid hp will fit in the bumper cover and not compromise the cooling or AC and you won’t have to cut your bumper cover.
The A/W acts like a big heat sync as well but water has the ability to absorb
huge amounts of energy “heat”.
Basically we choose A/W because it will work better with the constraints that we have placed upon ourselves.
Trust me we didn't want to use A/W it's more expensive and complicated. It raises the price of the kit and it requires more fab time to get the kit out the door.
I will say this though, an old friend once told us "I'd rather explain the price, than apoligize for the quality"
Thanks for reading I know it was a little long.
Last edited by ModularTurbo; Mar 12, 2010 at 08:24 PM.
. 
There are compromises in every situation, with A/A you have two choices.
1. A front mount that goes in place of the impact beam and you loose your fog lights and or cut up your bumper cover. Most DIY front mounts are this way.
2. Is the APS type where it covers up the AC condenser and radiator.
With this type the air flow to the radiator and AC condenser is compromised
and the radiant heat from the AC condenser and radiator keeps the intercooler hotter than the first option.
3. 2 small A/A’s like Procharger uses. This setup suffers from not enough air flow over the core and the space to get a big enough core mass due to space restrictions.
An A/A core needs to be big and dense as it really is nothing more than a big heat sync.
After it has absorbed all it can take 150 mph of air blasting on it won’t bring the core temp back to ambient temp until you relieve the core by letting off of the gas pedal.
An A/W that will support stupid hp will fit in the bumper cover and not compromise the cooling or AC and you won’t have to cut your bumper cover.
The A/W acts like a big heat sync as well but water has the ability to absorb
huge amounts of energy “heat”.
Basically we choose A/W because it will work better with the constraints that we have placed upon ourselves.
Trust me we didn't want to use A/W it's more expensive and complicated. It raises the price of the kit and it requires more fab time to get the kit out the door.
I will say this though, an old friend once told us "I'd rather explain the price, than apoligize for the quality"
Thanks for reading I know it was a little long.
1. A front mount that goes in place of the impact beam and you loose your fog lights and or cut up your bumper cover. Most DIY front mounts are this way.
2. Is the APS type where it covers up the AC condenser and radiator.
With this type the air flow to the radiator and AC condenser is compromised
and the radiant heat from the AC condenser and radiator keeps the intercooler hotter than the first option.
3. 2 small A/A’s like Procharger uses. This setup suffers from not enough air flow over the core and the space to get a big enough core mass due to space restrictions.
An A/A core needs to be big and dense as it really is nothing more than a big heat sync.
After it has absorbed all it can take 150 mph of air blasting on it won’t bring the core temp back to ambient temp until you relieve the core by letting off of the gas pedal.
An A/W that will support stupid hp will fit in the bumper cover and not compromise the cooling or AC and you won’t have to cut your bumper cover.
The A/W acts like a big heat sync as well but water has the ability to absorb
huge amounts of energy “heat”.
Basically we choose A/W because it will work better with the constraints that we have placed upon ourselves.
Trust me we didn't want to use A/W it's more expensive and complicated. It raises the price of the kit and it requires more fab time to get the kit out the door.
I will say this though, an old friend once told us "I'd rather explain the price, than apoligize for the quality"
Thanks for reading I know it was a little long.
