LS2 Aluminum Block question??
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From: Kennesaw, Georgia
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I wouldn't weld on the heads with out sending the out to be rehardened. Noyzee had a problem a while ago with his AFR heads cracking. He kept getting them rewelded, but the same thing kept happening. He sent them to Tony Mamo and he mentioned the whole idea about rehardening the heads after having them welded on.
Not to mention I don't think it's going to really work. You have to think about equal and opposite forces. If you are pulling down on one side of the head you are effectively pushing upwards on the other side. Granted there's a few head bolts in the way.
Not to mention I don't think it's going to really work. You have to think about equal and opposite forces. If you are pulling down on one side of the head you are effectively pushing upwards on the other side. Granted there's a few head bolts in the way.
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I wouldn't weld on the heads with out sending the out to be rehardened. Noyzee had a problem a while ago with his AFR heads cracking. He kept getting them rewelded, but the same thing kept happening. He sent them to Tony Mamo and he mentioned the whole idea about rehardening the heads after having them welded on.
Not to mention I don't think it's going to really work. You have to think about equal and opposite forces. If you are pulling down on one side of the head you are effectively pushing upwards on the other side. Granted there's a few head bolts in the way.
Not to mention I don't think it's going to really work. You have to think about equal and opposite forces. If you are pulling down on one side of the head you are effectively pushing upwards on the other side. Granted there's a few head bolts in the way.
With the proper welding done then I don't think it will be a proplem. Engine builders have done this on BB Chevy's for year's for this same type problem.
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If you have the money, you would be crazy NOT to go with the LSX block. There are options out there for heads to match. You'll have the best of both world. I have seen them well under $2K.
David
David
If you are taking that much weight off of the car then just do the LSX, why fart around with welding and creating more problems with a block you know cant take the power you want to make.
Not to mention the LSX has better oiling as well.
Not to mention the LSX has better oiling as well.
ive seen some cylinder walls cracking on even the LSX block. making apprx. 1100rwhp(nitrous). tuneup what perfect. pistons were fine just two cracked walls. plus the LSX block weighs 10000000lbs. i plan on buying the warhawk block next
The Warhawk block is badass but you 4500 is just for block. You have to buy there valley cover, front and rear cover from them also. 4500 turns into 5500 in a hurry and you haven't even done any machine work yet.
I guess I'm asking for Chris (Hunter) because he's the one looking at the aluminum block stuff. I am just wondering if there is legitimately problems with it or its just internet hearsay.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=warhawk
I found this with a quick search
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=14
It just seems that for the price being charged for a Warhawk block it would be a little more "finished". It might be worth it to the right person though.
Larry
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I just got back in town. However, My car is going to be strictly a race car from now on, so with that said, I am going to be filling the block with "Hard Block" block fill and fill it completly. This will add all the extra strenght in the cylinder wall area I should need. As far as cooling the head's we will be adding a water pump just for the head cooling.This is done on some NMCA car's and work's very well. I will also be adding a oil cooler. Some will say how much weight will that add, not much considering its usually full of water anyhow. Now with the hard block fill in the engine to keep the cylinder wall's from distorting, my billet main caps, main cap brace, and the extra bolt tabs welded on the motor, I will be able to go as fast as I need to go, and the block sould be as strong as a LSX Block, without the weight! What do you guy's think?
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I agree, but I don't want to go thru the trouble of taking the weight off the car just to add it back on with a iron block.
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I am not exactly sure what the problems are with the Warhawk block, but I do know that there are some that exist with it. The LS2 block is a production GM block that if I can make a few additions to it to make it stronger and more reliable for racing, I would rather spend a extra 1000.00 on it rather that the 4500.00 on other block's! Look at it this way, ERL takes a production LS2 aluminum block and add's thicker sleeve's and a few other thing's to it to make it stronger and they even add the extra bolt hole's to convert it to a 6 bolt setup. it's working for them and they get 4500.00 for there block as well.