Who's making 700+RWHP on 346/347ci w/Blowers

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10-30-2008, 09:39 PM

#21

Jimmy P

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But not only is a chassis dyno measuring engine power, but its also indirectly measuring drivetrain efficiency. For example, I have a light converter, aluminum flex plate, very efficient converter, aluminum direct drum, lightened reaction carrier, fairly light dirveshaft, lightened spool, lightened and anti-friction coated ring and pinion, lightened axles etc. So even someone else with a regular TH400 and standard 9" with a heavy posi and a junk torque converter may be looking at 600rwhp with the same flywheel horsepower as I make.

No matter the car ran as good as it did. You have a ton of money just in those parts.

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10-30-2008, 10:59 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy P

No matter the car ran as good as it did. You have a ton of money just in those parts.

Not really, I do my own transmissions, rear ends etc and a lot of stuff I had laying around or bought used. The good thing about an efficient drivetrain is you need to make less horsepower to run as well and none of those parts compromised reliability one bit, unlike pushing an engine hard to achieve the same ET/MPH goal.

It just depends where you want to spend the money, a badass 4L80 conversion costs way more than I had in everything I had from the flywheel back..

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10-31-2008, 01:26 AM

#23

Rickys S/C Z28

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we all need a part list with part numbers!!! and prices!!!....so we can copy

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10-31-2008, 06:44 AM

#24

No Juice

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Originally Posted by kp

Its OK to ask dynojet numbers and specific combos for comparison, as long as you realize its not a 100% accurate way of comparing things.

Yes I am well aware of this.

I'm just trying to get an idea what it takes to hit that 700 mark in terms of cubic inch and boost with a blower. I don't want to run 18+psi of boost regardless of cubic inch to get there. Thats just me. If I have to up the cubic inch with less boost to get there, then that is what I have to do, but then its how much more. If I don't have to up the cubic inch the more my pocket book likes me.

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10-31-2008, 07:27 AM

#25

Only ERO's

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Originally Posted by No Juice

Just buy the 427 out of the Orange Vette and swap a few parts and put the D1SC on there with about 14 lbs of boost. I have been tempted to do this to my SOM WS6, but I just can't justify it right now!

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10-31-2008, 09:23 AM

#26

No Juice

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I'd have to change too many things for that to work and plus I don't want an iron block

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10-31-2008, 10:24 AM

#27

Pro Stock John

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346 + M6 + 15 psi = 700rwhp. 15 psi is double the air, and you should make 350rwhp just on motor if not more.

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10-31-2008, 03:34 PM

#28

Rickys S/C Z28

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is there a calculator for X amount of boost make x amount of power?

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09-18-2009, 01:23 AM

#29

99Ls1fever

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Fully Built Forged 347
YSI
Big Cam
850 hp

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09-18-2009, 02:06 AM

#30

Inspector12

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346 with AFR (Out of the box) BIG CAM on a 112, F1R it made 826 at 4800 running out of fuel hence the reason I didn't pull it higher. I have fixed the fuel issue, but havent had it back on the dyno.

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09-21-2009, 04:27 PM

#31

viper9403

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Inspector12

346 with AFR (Out of the box) BIG CAM on a 112, F1R it made 826 at 4800 running out of fuel hence the reason I didn't pull it higher. I have fixed the fuel issue, but havent had it back on the dyno.

Did you swap out the 408 for a 346 in the black car? And how much boost were you seeing at 4800?

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09-21-2009, 08:09 PM

#32

Inspector12

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Originally Posted by viper9403

Did you swap out the 408 for a 346 in the black car? And how much boost were you seeing at 4800?

Yeah I burnt a piston due to the same fuel problem which turned out to be a bad altenator so the 346 I was building went in until I get it repaired or do something different! I think it was at the 18lb range with 16*of timing.

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