My KYTP build
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From: Fannett, Tx
Bingo, I will have to check when the pipe comes back. I really hope it still clear, but I doubt it will. I was talking with another friend who was going to weld up the exhaust. Rerouting it around the bar and maybe going up to a 3.5" dp. I will see how much room I have tomorrow when we put motor in.
let me see if i can get a pic of my downpipe im sure its pretty much the same design but im still on factory kmember,that one reason i did the drain in the front timing cover also a little easier to get to if i have to remove it
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From: Fannett, Tx
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From: Fannett, Tx
A/C would be a plus but since I rarely drive this car anyway I decided it wasn't a necessary. I drive with the windows down 90% of the time. But one thing I will not live without is a heater, Homey don't play that.
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From: Fannett, Tx
is this true
second were you get coating at?
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From: Fannett, Tx
Here is what happen today, sorry about the pictures the camera was on manual mode for some reason. First thing I did is relocate the the drain. I had oil all over me and everywhere else. Once I got the pan on I ran to get some exhaust manifold gaskets and an oil pressure sending unit. I got home put on the manifolds, coils and plug wires. The had to go back to the part store for some nuts and bolts. Seem like I wasted a lot of the day driving around.
So this build has been going pretty smoothly besides putting the drain in the wrong spot and then someone who will not be named broke my oil pressure sensor. Those were really not a big road block but here is my next issue.
As you can see that is a tight clearance, I have turbo turn as much as possible to get it off the pulley. The reason I believe it is so close is the pulley is not all the way on. It is not flush with the crank. I think that with since the timing chain is a double roller unit and thicker is the issue. They had to shim out the oil pump ( I had to grind the cover for it to fit). I could gain an 1/8th maybe a little more if the pulley could go on farther.
Now I have two ideas to fix this problem.
1: Remove the stock pulley and have it machined down to get back that 1/8".
2: Order a underdrive pulley and have plenty of clearance. This sounds like the better idea but there maybe another problem. With the smaller pulley the belt will be closer to the turbo.
I don't know if the belt will clear. What do you all think will be the better route?
So this build has been going pretty smoothly besides putting the drain in the wrong spot and then someone who will not be named broke my oil pressure sensor. Those were really not a big road block but here is my next issue.
As you can see that is a tight clearance, I have turbo turn as much as possible to get it off the pulley. The reason I believe it is so close is the pulley is not all the way on. It is not flush with the crank. I think that with since the timing chain is a double roller unit and thicker is the issue. They had to shim out the oil pump ( I had to grind the cover for it to fit). I could gain an 1/8th maybe a little more if the pulley could go on farther.
Now I have two ideas to fix this problem.
1: Remove the stock pulley and have it machined down to get back that 1/8".
2: Order a underdrive pulley and have plenty of clearance. This sounds like the better idea but there maybe another problem. With the smaller pulley the belt will be closer to the turbo.
I don't know if the belt will clear. What do you all think will be the better route?
I just now put 2 and 2 together. I replied in this thread earlier about the mellings oil pump. That pump is not designed to be used with a double roller chain. That would explain the complications. I believe the back side of the crank pulley is hitting the pump gear, if it is putting pressure on it, it will tear the pump up quickly. Either one of your options sounds like a good solution, personally I would stick with a stock diameter crank pulley.
