My KYTP build
11-18-2008, 09:55 PM
#84
I just now put 2 and 2 together. I replied in this thread earlier about the mellings oil pump. That pump is not designed to be used with a double roller chain. That would explain the complications. I believe the back side of the crank pulley is hitting the pump gear, if it is putting pressure on it, it will tear the pump up quickly. Either one of your options sounds like a good solution, personally I would stick with a stock diameter crank pulley.
In a stock application the crank pulley seats against the crank timing chain gear. You mentioned your pump is shimmed out and if it is shimmed enough the pulley could be hitting the oil pump gear before it stops on the crank gear like it should.
I would think that is the only explination of the crank pully not seating as far as it should. Unless you actually think it should go on further and it is where it needs to be and the kit is built very close.
11-19-2008, 12:23 AM
#85
The kits are built close, but they are all built the same which leads me to think the same as you Anthony. I would go back to a stock LS6 oil pump and Timing chain. I would almost garuantee that solves the clearance issues.
11-19-2008, 09:28 AM
#86
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I just got off the phone with LME and they are telling me that even with the double roller timing chain and the melling pump that the pulley still sits in the stock location. Shimming out the pump is just to clear the chain. So switching back to the stock chain and pump won't make a differents. I could still turn down the stock crank but I would possibly have a problem with the belt lining up. So now I am kinda confused on what to do. I can still order a underdrive pulley but I think the belt will hit the housing. So I guess I can have the pulley turned and at least try it since that will be free.
11-19-2008, 10:32 AM
#87
I just got off the phone with LME and they are telling me that even with the double roller timing chain and the melling pump that the pulley still sits in the stock location. Shimming out the pump is just to clear the chain. So switching back to the stock chain and pump won't make a differents. I could still turn down the stock crank but I would possibly have a problem with the belt lining up. So now I am kinda confused on what to do. I can still order a underdrive pulley but I think the belt will hit the housing. So I guess I can have the pulley turned and at least try it since that will be free.
11-19-2008, 11:18 AM
#89
Based off that pic. The oil pump is shimmied. Which had the Oil pump gear moved out. Now if the crank seats aginats that gear then it will also be shimmed out which would close up the clearances.
We went through this on Brians car. Alot of machining went into gettin it to work right.
I will see if I can find that link.
Dont know if will help any:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/8714887-post1.html
We went through this on Brians car. Alot of machining went into gettin it to work right.
I will see if I can find that link.
Dont know if will help any:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/8714887-post1.html
Last edited by Josh @ KYTP; 11-19-2008 at 11:38 AM.
11-19-2008, 07:27 PM
#93
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TheBlur found this post and it shoots down the machining idea I had.
So he called another friend we have that has a 25% UD pulley sitting around. He brings it over and we see what it looks like. It clears the turbo with plenty of room. But just as I thought the belt hits now.
But we got another idea. If I bought another T4 flange and used it as a spacer to lift the turbo up just a little bit higher it would clear everything.
Seem like a reasonable idea?
On a good note the guy gave me the UD pulley for FREE, BALLIN!
ya i would make sure that seats against the timing gear. when the pulley is fully seated it should sit about 2 mm higher the the crank nose. the reason gm has such crazy torque on that bolt is cause the crank uses a forged roll-pin, and if the clamp load isnt between the pulley and timing gear u can rip off the roll pin which will let the timing gear freewheel. i work at the dealer and i have seen it, its not pretty
So he called another friend we have that has a 25% UD pulley sitting around. He brings it over and we see what it looks like. It clears the turbo with plenty of room. But just as I thought the belt hits now.
But we got another idea. If I bought another T4 flange and used it as a spacer to lift the turbo up just a little bit higher it would clear everything.
Seem like a reasonable idea?
On a good note the guy gave me the UD pulley for FREE, BALLIN!
11-19-2008, 08:37 PM
#94
Yeah thats is ok to do I have done it before. Just make sure that anything downpipe related will still work after the change.
Like I said just make sure the balancer is seating on the crank timing gear only, if it is on the oil pump it will say bye bye.
Like I said just make sure the balancer is seating on the crank timing gear only, if it is on the oil pump it will say bye bye.
11-19-2008, 09:02 PM
#96
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I dont know if its been asked, but what kind of numbers are you expecting with the T76 on the 370? Also is this your DD, Im asking because isnt an 8.6:1 CR pretty low for a street car?
11-19-2008, 09:16 PM
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As far as just numbers if I could touch 800rwhp I would be pretty damn happy. This isn't a DD, I have a 2000 s-10 I drive to work and a 07 TB SS for whenever else. After all the reading I did before I ordered the motor the average compression for a turbo car was between 8.5-9.0:1 so I went between those two. I don't think it is to low, it should let me make decent power on pump gas by keeping the cylinder pressure lower.
