LSX or Iron Block
. I am going to be puting my whole heart into this build whilst trying keep her street legal.(gotta love those Street legal cars drag cars) I was contemplating on the used LQ4/LQ9 iron truck block which i can get for about 1400 used with all parts attached which i can sell off. I am not really worried about internals or any parts on the block, I will be selling almost all of it. OR should I bite the MF bullet and go big with the LSX?? I know most people would say do it right the first time and do the LSX but is it really worth the 2k+ JUST FOR THE BLOCK!! anyone have any exp.?any opinions or suggections will be much appreciated, don't be shy. But I can tell you that what you are planning is way way beyond serious overkill for any street car and you won't be hooking it up much past 600rwhp on the street without running drag tires all the time. And talking like et streets not nittos. I run nittos and they are pretty much waste of time past 600rwhp power levels. Some would say past 500rwhp power levels. Tires like et street radials are much better but sure don't last long..plan on maybe buying some every season if you try to daily drive them for say 5000 miles a year.
While its kinda cool to have a 1000hp car rwhp or just engine hp, its mostly bragging rights ,but my plate sure does put fear into the honda boys around here.! LOL Course think many people that see my plate think its maybe a comedy plate. You can't see the huge intercooler with the hood closed or really any other tips offs visually from farther away. Then they get to hear the turbos spooling and the super loud blow offs when I blow by them like there engine just shut off and then see the twin turbo and 408 emblems.
Then they know that if anything my plate might be understated. And will be once the direct port goes on in spring or the turbos get upgraded. But seriously its mostly just braggin and intimidation factor. You may actually just get slower if you have too much hp and can't hook it up. At least I can dial in boost for rpm and gear. Course procharger puts out boost in a progressive manner based on rpm so that can help some and you can get progressive nitrous controllers as well . And then one guy put boost controller on his ati in a thread on here??.
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Unless this guy is trying for 7s or 6s I am pretty sure your basic iron block like mine could easily take you to the 8s and do that at mabye 15psi with the right turbos.And be hitting likely 1000rwhp at that 15psi. And really who needs more than 1000 rwhp for track or street. Heck most days I wonder if I need more than 500rwhp on the street.
These cars are a handful with no traction control option like my 99!
Here is a fast 9 second 142 mph car..
370 iron block..
So really is this guy trying for 7s?
LSX Is maybe for 7 or faster cars or maybe low 8s. Hardly consider a 8 second car streetable or necessary. 9s is pretty nuts for a street car and still a lot for race car.You need medical, full cage for 9s and bunch of crap.
1998 Pontiac TA
Induction-
Type: Custom Single S88 Turbo Kit
Manufacture: STENOD Performance
Boost: (Psi) 20
Intercooler: Stenod Performance Custom Air-to-Air Intercooler, Bell Core
Performance-
Horsepower: (XXX rwhp)
Torque: (XXX rwtq)
ET: 9.626
60': 1.467
330: 4.057
1/8: 6.209
mph: 114.42
1000: 8.056
1/4: 9.626
mph: 142.76
Engine-
Block: LQ9 Iron 370ci
Compression: 8.87:1
Oiling: Melling Pump
Crankshaft: Stock
Connecting Rods: Eagle H Beam ARP L19 Rod Bolts
Pistons: Diamond -15cc Dish.
Cylinder Heads: 317 casting 6.0L 2.02, 1.57 valves
Camshaft: Comp XER 224/222 .581/.581 114+2
Rocker Arms: Stock
Intake Manifold: GMPP Carb Drilled for FI. Precision Turbo 100 degree Elbow, 90mm Accufab Throttle Body
Ignition/Computer: Stock 98 PCM, HP Tuners & The MAF-T Pro Piggy Back.
Headers: Stenod Performance Custom 1 ¾" Headers, 2 ½" Collectors
Exhaust: 5" Downpipe stepped down to 4" Exhaust w/ 4" Dynomax Bullet dumped before rear axle
Cooling System: Griffan Rad, Single 16" SPAL Fan
Fuel-
Pump: Aeromotive Pro Series Pump
Injectors: Precision 96#ers
Rails: Billit Rails From Na$ty Performance
Drive train/Transmission-
Transmission: Rossler Powerglide
Clutch/Converter: Neil Chance Converter
Driveshaft: Dynotech Chromoly Driveshaft
Rear Axle: Strange S60, Full Spool, 3.54 Gears
Chassis-
Front Suspension: Strange Double Adjustable Front Shocks , AJE Tubular K-Member, AJE Tubular Lower A-Arms, Stenod Peformance Travel Limiters
Rear Suspension: Strange Double Adjustable Rear Shocks, Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm, BMR Adjustable Panhard Rod, Billingsley Lower Control Arms, BMR Rear Drag Sway Bar
Brakes: AeroSpace Drag Brakes Front
Baer Eradispeed Rear Rotors
Wheels & Tires-
Front Wheels:Weld Aluma Star 15x3 ½ in Front
Back Wheels:Weld Prostar 15x10
Tires Front: M/T 26" ET Drag
Tires Back: M/T 325/50/15 Drag Radials
Lots more this fast or faster on good old 346 forged or 6.0 iron,402s..etc. As I said unless its a low 8 or faster goal then lsx blocks are overkill and shouldn't push much water under 20psi withe thicker deck heads and arp heads studs and decent gaskets if you dont' make some serious tuning mistakes or get too greedy on timing.Over 20 yeah guess it would be nice to have 6 bolt heads, oring blocks and all that serious stuff.
Thats pretty much my point and why I didn't go with lsx block and all that crap. 9s is plenty fast enough for me and my street car. But of coures some guys always want to be faster..
Performance-
Horsepower: N/A
Torque: N/A
ET: 8.593 @ 163.60
60'- 1.442
330- 3.746
1/8- 5.615
mph- 132.00
1000'- 7.223
1/4- 8.593
mph- 163.60
Engine-
Block: Aluminum LS2, W2W Built 370 ci
Compression: 8:?.1
Oiling: Stock ported w/accumulator
Crankshaft: Stock
Connecting Rods: Callies
Pistons: Mahle Custom Turbo
Cylinder Heads: LPE stg 2
Camshaft: Custom Turbo Grind
Rocker Arms: Harland Sharp 1.7
Intake Manifold: Stock LS6
Ignition/Computer: BS3
Headers: 6.0 truck manifolds
Exhaust: 5" DP with 5" cutout to 3" Bullet muffler
Cooling System: Stock water pump, Griffin Radiator
Fuel-
So why again does a normal person need an lsx block unless they are looking for 7s or faster?





