APS Turbo comparison: Z06 35R vs F Car 20G
#61
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Tom..new snails eh? Now we won't know if it was dud aps turbo or what. But guess if Louis turbos still give you oil problems pretty sure then to get the scav pump.
He did say 10/12 got scavenger pumps.
I went with the more expensive turbowerks as am only running one for two turbos .I am really hoping it quiet that is one of my main criteria for a good pump.It looks simple to install just wondering where would be best place to get power from. It has to of course be switched power.
Ground should be simple to do.
So are you getting 60, 65 or 70s? For sure you take some install pics for us.
He did say 10/12 got scavenger pumps.
I went with the more expensive turbowerks as am only running one for two turbos .I am really hoping it quiet that is one of my main criteria for a good pump.It looks simple to install just wondering where would be best place to get power from. It has to of course be switched power.
Ground should be simple to do.
So are you getting 60, 65 or 70s? For sure you take some install pics for us.
#64
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sorry the time line of all of this is screwing this post up
thats my bad
we are going back to starting with the small things first and we will see what it does and if it still F up than its turbos
ill take pics for all to see
thats my bad
we are going back to starting with the small things first and we will see what it does and if it still F up than its turbos
ill take pics for all to see
#65
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guys, id be nice to louis, hes giving you a ton of R&D and help for a problem that has not much to do with him. I would take whatever he gives you with thanks and be happy your not paying for it. Gotta love them turbos
#68
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I don't have a kit on yet, I have been doing my homework and waiting for the kits to drop in price as well as for all the little problems to get fixed. I have a 347 ci. motor so I need to go with the smaller standard turbos. I want to get them upgraded through LG though, but I was wondering if the rebuilt upgrades would spool any slower on my smaller motor or does that only matter with a larger housing? Also, does LG sell new kits with those upgraded standards and new inlet tubes. Pipes hitting my Strano sway bar would be an issue as well and I refuse to take it off.
#69
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How slow a spool the bigger ones have will depend on how much bigger and their AR numbers. To gain high end likely going to lose some spool up time down lower. Thats the compromises usually necessary. I have wicked quick spool up I think, haven't logged yet but have a 408 which helps in that area.
I am prepared to have a bit slower. guessing maybe 500 rpm to go to say 60 or 65 pounders. I would do this not to be able to run max power from the bigger ones but to be able to run lower boost and still hit target goals. I have spray too though so can spool up the turbos pretty much instantly with that. 850rwhp say from the 60 or 65 pounders and 150 shot type of thing for 1000rwhp total.
Ball bearing options sound nice too should give quicker spool up over standard and hold boost bettter between shifts on stick cars. Be nice if Louis had some BB options as well.
Most important thing to me is reliable turbos. And we already know the aps has some questions in that area.
As for the little stuff I would assume the newer aps kits have at least the upgraded hoses not sure if they come with sway bar spacers or shorter endlinks.
I am going to stent my own inlet tubes shortly. Its simple to do and cheap compared to asp price for the upgraded inlets. Also likely fix my own sway bar with spacers and endlinks or cut tubes and put in silicone section or both .
I have a big hotchkis sway bar but might go to something smaller .I still want to run one.
There are still other questions that might have to be addressed with the aps kits as well. Should one use a scavenger pump? Louis says pretty much yes and I am throwing one on there anyway more as preventative medicine since so far not seeing any oil on my setup but its being run so far at low boost,standard gate springs so far. Also will possibly have overheating issues but again not seeing that so far with my setup but it hasn't got really hot here yet. I am not afraid to put on bigger rad and better water pump. That is mentioned in the aps manual.
I am even thinking to upgrade to t bolt clamps not a fan of worm gear ones.I still like the kit in many areas, you get to keep air, turbo location is not great for maintenance on the turbos but is not bad for general engine access to plugs,etc. I like the aps exhaust manifolds, downpipes, inlet pipes not the part that sucks shut..the intercooler pipes, the intercooler, battery tray, overflow, windshield washer bottle..I have already upgraded the blow offs.
Be nice when some of these upgraded turbos from Louis start getting some dynos and track times and some people with them log their boost so can do some comparing.
I am prepared to have a bit slower. guessing maybe 500 rpm to go to say 60 or 65 pounders. I would do this not to be able to run max power from the bigger ones but to be able to run lower boost and still hit target goals. I have spray too though so can spool up the turbos pretty much instantly with that. 850rwhp say from the 60 or 65 pounders and 150 shot type of thing for 1000rwhp total.
Ball bearing options sound nice too should give quicker spool up over standard and hold boost bettter between shifts on stick cars. Be nice if Louis had some BB options as well.
Most important thing to me is reliable turbos. And we already know the aps has some questions in that area.
As for the little stuff I would assume the newer aps kits have at least the upgraded hoses not sure if they come with sway bar spacers or shorter endlinks.
I am going to stent my own inlet tubes shortly. Its simple to do and cheap compared to asp price for the upgraded inlets. Also likely fix my own sway bar with spacers and endlinks or cut tubes and put in silicone section or both .
I have a big hotchkis sway bar but might go to something smaller .I still want to run one.
There are still other questions that might have to be addressed with the aps kits as well. Should one use a scavenger pump? Louis says pretty much yes and I am throwing one on there anyway more as preventative medicine since so far not seeing any oil on my setup but its being run so far at low boost,standard gate springs so far. Also will possibly have overheating issues but again not seeing that so far with my setup but it hasn't got really hot here yet. I am not afraid to put on bigger rad and better water pump. That is mentioned in the aps manual.
I am even thinking to upgrade to t bolt clamps not a fan of worm gear ones.I still like the kit in many areas, you get to keep air, turbo location is not great for maintenance on the turbos but is not bad for general engine access to plugs,etc. I like the aps exhaust manifolds, downpipes, inlet pipes not the part that sucks shut..the intercooler pipes, the intercooler, battery tray, overflow, windshield washer bottle..I have already upgraded the blow offs.
Be nice when some of these upgraded turbos from Louis start getting some dynos and track times and some people with them log their boost so can do some comparing.
#70
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I doubt the kits are going to get cheaper but if you could get a used kit at a good price then not as big a deal to spend money on turbos, stents or upgraded inlets, bigger rad,etc.
I think aps is messing up here but not being a bit more forthcoming on fixes and problem solving. Upgraded inlet tubes or a fix for them should be free to orginal kit owners. Spacer kits for at least stock sway bars should be free or they should redesign the intercooler pipes to stop interference. Quality control on the turbos should be tightened up. Scavenger pump setup maybe should be used rather than gravity feed or should be offered as option maybe.
I think aps is messing up here but not being a bit more forthcoming on fixes and problem solving. Upgraded inlet tubes or a fix for them should be free to orginal kit owners. Spacer kits for at least stock sway bars should be free or they should redesign the intercooler pipes to stop interference. Quality control on the turbos should be tightened up. Scavenger pump setup maybe should be used rather than gravity feed or should be offered as option maybe.
#72
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In the sig..Pro yank 3400 extreme. Think going with RPM top of line 4l80 maybe with trans brake just in case want to play at the strip occasionally. Outlaw strips not nhra.
Hopefully be ordering the trans shortly I am very sick of my t56 and clutch. My tex has never become that streetable.It still gives me chatter sometimes and is touchy to get on lifts, etc. Tex sent me some trail street discs they were experimenting with but never installed them as knew would be going up on the power. I can't seem to get my trans to shift nice when hitting the throttle hard either. It seemed to shift great with just the cam and minor bolts ons that had in it before. I won't miss the t56 or clutches or hydraulics.
I don't even like to drive my car right now. And thats sad. Oh have floater rattle also annoying whenever you push in clutch. Clutch pedal pressure is great though and think so far the tex is holding the power but I am not abusing the t56 or the tex since its presold.
Hopefully be ordering the trans shortly I am very sick of my t56 and clutch. My tex has never become that streetable.It still gives me chatter sometimes and is touchy to get on lifts, etc. Tex sent me some trail street discs they were experimenting with but never installed them as knew would be going up on the power. I can't seem to get my trans to shift nice when hitting the throttle hard either. It seemed to shift great with just the cam and minor bolts ons that had in it before. I won't miss the t56 or clutches or hydraulics.
I don't even like to drive my car right now. And thats sad. Oh have floater rattle also annoying whenever you push in clutch. Clutch pedal pressure is great though and think so far the tex is holding the power but I am not abusing the t56 or the tex since its presold.
#73
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I am experiencing all these same symptoms now with 508 to the rears even after buying all this expensive clutch and t-56 stuff. My dd had to go into the trans shop the other day for some warranty work and I have had to drive my T/A around town in its place. I can keep the clutch from chattering, but it has to be babied out and that is hard sometimes in heavy traffic on frequent hills. It makes tons of noise too. The hardened gears in my tranny make it a choir to push into gear as well. Granted, it feels stout as hell, but it feels like I'm trying to drive a track race car around town which is fun at first on the open road, but gets old after about an hour.
I started a thread about trading all my good t-56 stuff which all has less than 2k miles on it for a well built 4L80E setup. I think I should have some leverage on a trade since the t-56 stuff is so much more expensive. I think I will like a good auto with all that turbo power as well.
With that out of the way, maybe I can go ahead an run the larger APS kit since I won't have to worry about lag as much with the auto.
I started a thread about trading all my good t-56 stuff which all has less than 2k miles on it for a well built 4L80E setup. I think I should have some leverage on a trade since the t-56 stuff is so much more expensive. I think I will like a good auto with all that turbo power as well.
With that out of the way, maybe I can go ahead an run the larger APS kit since I won't have to worry about lag as much with the auto.