project tin can shootin for 9's
#506
i see a ton of weight left too!
if you really want it that light, you're gonna need a lexan, a ton of fiberglass, and carbon where you can. safety equipment weighs a decent amount!
good luck with the build and that's a sick lookin car
if you really want it that light, you're gonna need a lexan, a ton of fiberglass, and carbon where you can. safety equipment weighs a decent amount!
good luck with the build and that's a sick lookin car
#507
Just finished cutting the rear bumper to get the 295 65 to fit in there, will finish up the other side tonight and grab a few pics. After Xmas i should have all my fuel system parts to finish that up then wire n fore! Phil (9sec93) had a TA that was 27xx lbs and still had a lot of stuff too. Remember too that im not done either, lol. What else are you guys seeing in the engine bay? Gimmie some food for thought! =)
#508
Just finished cutting the rear bumper to get the 295 65 to fit in there, will finish up the other side tonight and grab a few pics. After Xmas i should have all my fuel system parts to finish that up then wire n fore! Phil (9sec93) had a TA that was 27xx lbs and still had a lot of stuff too. Remember too that im not done either, lol. What else are you guys seeing in the engine bay? Gimmie some food for thought! =)
Sean
#509
If there's anything other then a strip of the shock towers, and any more of the frame rail left past where the motor plate sits, it's not needed. Cut it all off.
Well.... that's what I'm doing anyway.
200 lbs of metal out, 35 lbs back in to add the structure needed to hold the nose together.
Your radiator is WAY too big too.
Well.... that's what I'm doing anyway.
200 lbs of metal out, 35 lbs back in to add the structure needed to hold the nose together.
Your radiator is WAY too big too.
#510
If there's anything other then a strip of the shock towers, and any more of the frame rail left past where the motor plate sits, it's not needed. Cut it all off.
Well.... that's what I'm doing anyway.
200 lbs of metal out, 35 lbs back in to add the structure needed to hold the nose together.
Your radiator is WAY too big too.
Well.... that's what I'm doing anyway.
200 lbs of metal out, 35 lbs back in to add the structure needed to hold the nose together.
Your radiator is WAY too big too.
#511
well finished up the rear brakes and got the tires fitted on. Incase you missed it, the rear is narrowed 2.5" on ea side and a 15x10 rim with a 4" b.s. I basically found a good place to put a wheel stud where i got the radius i wanted and used a plub-bob then to mark it out. I stuck down foil tape, traced it out on that then cut it out and used that line as my guide. Cut the fender away then cut the metal behind it, painted it black and done. Tire sits just inside the quarter and have about 3/4" gap between tire and fender. Didnt take any pics of the brakes but you can see um in a few of the pics.
#513
thanks! There 5/8 studs with i like 3/4" spacers. Yes the wheels are shank style and i HATE! shank lug nuts SOOOO when i had the rearend narrowed n bought new axles i had 5/8 studs put in so i dont need shank lugs anymore. Let me tell you...sooo much nicer just throwin a wheel on and spinnin down a nut. Before anyone says it...i know the studs are overkill but said "**** it, i hate shank lugs"
#514
thanks! There 5/8 studs with i like 3/4" spacers. Yes the wheels are shank style and i HATE! shank lug nuts SOOOO when i had the rearend narrowed n bought new axles i had 5/8 studs put in so i dont need shank lugs anymore. Let me tell you...sooo much nicer just throwin a wheel on and spinnin down a nut. Before anyone says it...i know the studs are overkill but said "**** it, i hate shank lugs"
#520
No weight yet, won't have it weighed till it's drivable and I can drive it somewhere ya know. Thanks for the compliments, almost done with fuel system now. I'll have a few pics of that in a bit